• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.159-165
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• 2004

This study described about method that forms liquid crystal gel (LCG) by main ingredient with hydrogenated lechin (HL) in O/W emulsion system. Result of stability test is as following with most suitable LCG's composition. Composition of LCG is as following, to form liquid crystal, an emulsifier used 4.0wt% of cetostearyl alcohol (CA) by 4.0wt% of HL as a booster. Moisturizers contained 2wt% of glycerin and 3.0wt% of 1,3-butylene glycol (1,3-BG). Suitable emollients used 3.0wt% of cyclomethicone, 3.0wt% of isononyl isononanoate (ININ), 3.0wt% of cerpric/carprylic triglycerides (CCTG), 3.0wt% of macademia nut oil (MNO) in liquid crystal gel formation. On optimum conditions of LCG formation, the pHs were formed all well under acidity or alkalinity conditions (pH=4.0-11.0). Considering safety of skin, pH was the most suitable 6.0${\pm}$1.0 ranges. The stable hardness of LCG formation appeared best in 32 dyne/$\textrm{cm}^2$. Particle of LCG is forming size of 1-20$\mu\textrm{m}$ range, and confirmed that the most excellent LCG is formed in 1-6$\mu\textrm{m}$ range. According to result that observe shape of LCG with optical or polarization microscope, LCG could was formed, and confirmed that is forming multi -layer lamellar type structure around the LCG. Moisturizing effect measured clinical test about 20 volunteers. As a result, moisturizing effect of LCG compares to placebo cream was increased 36.6%. This could predicted that polyol group is appeared the actual state because is adsorbed much to round liquid crystal droplets to multi-lamellar layer's hydrophilic group. It could predicted that polyol group is vast quantity present phase that appear mixed because is adsorbed to round liquid crystal to multi-lamellar layer's hydrophilic group. This LCG formation theory may contribute greatly in cosmetics and pharmacy industry development.

• Journal of Life Science
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• v.33 no.11
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• pp.905-914
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• 2023

To evaluate the effectiveness of the skin barrier improvement of lactic acid (LA) and gluconolactone (GL), the expression of filaggrin, loricrin, hyaluronic acid (HA), hyaluronan syhthase-2 (HAS2), and aquaporine-3 (AQP3) in keratinocytes, and the moisture content and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) by clinical trials were evaluated. The expression levels of filaggrin and locricrin, which are the main factors affecting the proper functioning of skin barrier function, and HA, HAS2, and AQP3, which are skin moisturizing-related proteins measured by quantitative real-time polymerase chain reaction (qRT-PCR) and western blotting. The results showed that the expression levels of the factors that decreased by H2O2 treatment were significantly increased by LA, GL, and a mixture of LA and GL at the mRNA and protein levels (p<0.05). The nanoemulsion containing a mixture of LA and GL was prepared using the emulsion inversion method, and the average particle size was 299.9 ± 0.287 nm. After measuring the TEWL of nanoemulsion using Vapometer, it was found that TEWL significantly decreased by 15.53% and 26.73% after two weeks and four weeks of product use, respectively, compared to TEWL before product use (p<0.001). Similarly, the skin moisture content of the nanoemulsion significantly increased by 15.40% and 26.59% after two weeks and four weeks of product use, respectively, compared to skin moisture content before product use (p<0.001). Therefore, the skin barrier function and moisturizing effect of a mixture of LA and GL are shown by increasing the moisture content and decreasing the TEWL by increasing the expression of filaggrin, loricrin, HA, HAS2, and AQP3. This suggests the possibility for the development of functional cosmetic ingredients in the future.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.35 no.3
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• pp.702-708
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• 2018

Hydrogels are natural polymer networks that can contain huge quantities of water and many cosmetical ingredients. Their hydrophilic functional groups creates a matrix, which allows high efficacy in delivering active ingredients into the skin. In industry, hydrating properties and strength of the hydrogels are of great interest in manufacturing hydrogel mask packs. We have used the cellulose in various forms such as powder, cotton fiber and cellulase treated cotton fiber to investigate the property changes of cellulose/hydrogel sheets. When 0.1% and 0.3% of cellulose powder were added to hydrogels, tensile strength of hydrogel sheets were decreased by 10% and 14% respectively. Vise versa, when 0.5 ~ 2 cm of cotton fibers were added, tensile strength of hydrogel sheets were significantly increased by about 20%. The hydrogels which contain cotton fibers also gave an excellent moisturizing effect. Especially cellolose/hydrogels containing cellulase-treated cotton fibers showed the best effect on retaining moisture content increasing upto 380% in comparison with the one containing untreated cotton as well as excellent dispersibility.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.36 no.2
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• pp.592-599
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• 2019

This study is to stabilize insoluble and unstable active ingredient which is Idebenone (INCI name: hydroxydecyl ubiquinone) in a multi-lamellar vesicle (MLV) and to stabilize it in the skin care cosmetics. Idebenone is good effective raw material in the treatment of Alzheimer's disease in the medical field and a powerful antioxidant in dermatology. It is well known as a substance that inhibits the formation of melanin and cleans the skin pigment. However, it did not dissolve in any solvent and it was difficult to apply in cosmetic applications. Niosome vesicle was able to develop a nano-particle by making a multi-layer of idebenone encapsulated with a nonionic surfactant, hydrogenated lecithin and glycine soja (soybean) sterols and passing it through a high pressure microfluidizer. Idebenone niosome vesicle (INV) has been developed to have the ability to dissolve transparently in water and to promote transdermal penetration. The appearance of the INV was a yellowish liquid having specific odor, and the particle size distribution of INV was about 10~80 nm. The pH was 5~8 (mean=6.8). This capsulation with idebenone was stored in a $45^{\circ}C$ incubator for 3 months and its stability was observed and quantitatively measured by HPLC. As a result, the stability of the sample encapsulated in the niosome vesicle (97.5%) was about 66.3% higher than that of the non-capsule sample of 32.5%. Idebenone 1% INV was used for the efficacy test and clinical trial evaluation as follows. The anti-oxidative activity of INV was 38.2%, which was superior to that of 12.8% tocopherol (control). The melanin-reducing effect of B16 melanoma cells was better than INV (17.4%) and Albutin (control) (9.6%). Pro-collagen synthesis rate was 128.2% for INV and 89.3% for tocopherol (control). The skin moisturizing effect was 15.5% better than the placebo sample. The elasticity effect was 9.7% better than the placebo sample. As an application field, INV containing 1% of idebenone is expected to be able to develop various functional cosmetic formulations such as skin toner, ampoule essence, cream, eye cream and sunblock cream. In addition, it is expected that this encapsulated material will be widely applicable to emulsifying agents for skin use in the pharmaceutical industry as well as the cosmetics industry.

• Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
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• v.20 no.5
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• pp.102-108
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• 2019

Melaleuca alternifolia contains terpineol-4, cineol, sesquiterpenes etc., and has a germicidal effect and skin moisturizing effect. It also has the characteristics of relieving acne inflammation, treating dandruff, relieving pain, and relieving depression. In this study, an antimicrobial substance extracted from tea tree using an organic solvent (methanol, dichloromethane, ethyl acetate) and hydrothermal extraction method. And confirmed the antimicrobial activity of each extract. In order to verify the antimicrobial activity, nine pathogenic bacteria (Bacillus cereus, Bacillus subtilis, Listeria monocytogenes, Enterococcus faecalis, Staphylococcus aureus, Klebsiella pneumoniae, Escherichia coli, Salmonella typhimurium, Pseudomonas aeruginosa and Vibrio parahaemolyticus) were used. The antimicrobial activity of each extracts were confirmed by the commonly used disc diffusion method. The results showed that the fraction extracts of ethyl acetate and methanol had antimicrobial effects against V. parahaemolyticus and S. aureus. Using these results, we confirmed the antimicrobial activity of each fraction extracts and hot water extracts against V. parahaemolyticus. After the treat of samples, we confirmed at over 99.9 % of antimicrobial activity. In case of antifungal activities, we confirmed of preservation effect during over 45 hours. Based on the results of this research, further studies will be conducted to confirm the possibility of development as a new antimicrobial agent.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.40 no.2
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• pp.258-267
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• 2023

In this study, to investigate the possibility of using ethanol extract of Petasites japonicus (PJE) as a functional material, we investigated the activity of improving skin barrier and inflammation through UVB-induced human keratinocyte (HaCaT cell). As a result of confirming the antioxidant effect through DPPH radical scavenging activity, ABTS⁺ radical scavenging activity, and hydrogen peroxide scavenging activity, it was confirmed that it had an antioxidant effect similar to that of ascorbic acid, a control, at a concentration of 1 mg/ml. As a result of confirming the mRNA expression of the production ability of filaggrin and aquaporin-3 in HaCaT cells induced by UVB, it was confirmed that the reduced expression level by UVB stimulation increased in a concentration-dependent manner when the PJE was treated. It was confirmed that the mRNA expression of TNF-𝛼 and IL-1𝛽 were increased by UVB stimulation and decreased when the PJE was treated. As a result of the migration assay, it was confirmed that the proliferation of skin keratinocytes and the recovery rate of wounds were increased in a concentration-dependent manner. Based on the experimental results, it suggests that Petasites japonicus can be used as a functional cosmetic product that can improve skin moisturizing and skin barrier function.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.29 no.3
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• pp.486-494
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• 2012

Nano-emulsion with phase inversion temperature (PIT) emulsifying system was prepared to use rapeseed oil from originating Jeju in order to apply various cosmetic applications. Natural rape seed oil (NRSO) extraction was extracted using n-hexane as a solvent. NRSO extract showed a light yellowish color of viscous liquid as well as yield was $43{\pm}2.5%$. Acid value was $2.76{\pm}0.5$ and gravity was $0.89{\pm}0.05$. Droplet size of PIT-Yuche-NE with 20wt% of rapeseed oil was 50-120nm (average: $82{\pm}5.8nm$) and zeta potential was -29.5mV. It was thermodynamically good stable emulsion due to $(PEG)_{5-30}$fattyacidether. Some conclusions from the result of characteristic experiment were obtained as follows. First, the anti-oxidative activity was measured by free radical scavenging activity using DPPH (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl radical). Anti-oxidative activity of PIT-Yuche-NE was $37.2{\pm}6.7%$ on 10mg/mL compared with PIT-Toco-NE (Natural tocopherol nano-emulsion, $28.8{\pm}6.5%$ on 10 mg/mL) and PIT-Nokcha-NE (Green tea extract nano-emulsion, $29.6{\pm}7.2%$ on 10mg/mL). Second, the collagen synthesis activity of PIT-Yuche-NE was $148{\pm}15.2%$ compared with PIT-Toco-NE (Natural tocopherol nano-emulsion, $121{\pm}13.5%$ on 10mg/mL) and PIT-Nokcha-NE (Green tea extract nano-emulsion, $95{\pm}12.7%$ on 10mg/mL). Third, the effectiveness of moisturizing activity of Yuche-CRM with Aramo-TS after 6 hours increase $47{\pm}3.9%$ (*p-value￡0.05, n=7) whereas Both Toco-CRM was $30{\pm}5.2%$ (*p-value￡0.05, n=7) and Nokcha-CRM was $35{\pm}4.5%$. Therefore, Yuche-CRM has higher moisturizing effect than other two creams. Finally, Nano-emulsion stabilizing rapeseed oil using PIT emulsifying system of this study can be used to apply cosmetics industry and pharmaceutical industry.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.40 no.2
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• pp.195-201
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• 2014

Body fluid has been studied for diverse fields like Ringer's solutions, artificial joint fluids, cell growth culture media because it plays a crucial role in controlling body temperature and acts as a solvent for diverse metabolite processes in the body and delivery media of mineral, energy source, hormone, signal and drug from and to cell via blood or lymphatic vessel by osmotic pressure or active uptake. Stratum corneum containing extracellular lipids and NMF (natural moisturizing factor) absorbs atmospheric water residing outside of cells and utilize it to hydrate inside of their own. This process is related to skin barrier function. In this study, we conducted the cell viability test with Cell Bio Fluid $Sync^{TM}$, which mimicks body fluids including amino acids, peptides, and monosaccharides to strengthen skin barrier, and the clinical skin improvement test with cosmetics containing Cell Bio Fluid $Sync^{TM}$. In the cell viability test, HaCaT cell was treated with PBS for 3 hours, followed by the treatment of a cell culture medium (DMEM) and isotonic solution (PBS) and Cell Bio Fluid $Sync^{TM}$ for 3 hours each. Then, MTT assay and image analysis were conducted. In the clinical skin improvement test, twenty-one healthy women participated. Participants applied cosmetics containing Cell Bio Fluid $Sync^{TM}$ on their face for a week and evaluated the skin hydration, skin roughness, brightness and evenness. All measurements were conducted after they washed off their face and took a rest under the constant temperature ($22{\pm}2^{\circ}C$) and constant humidity conditions ($50{\pm}5%$) for 20 minutes. All the data were analyzed by SPSS (version 21) software program. Results showed that Cell Bio Fluid $Sync^{TM}$ improved both the cell viability and in vivo skin conditions such as skin hydration, roughness, brightness and evenness.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.38 no.6
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• pp.1383-1392
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• 2021

It has been reported that emodin, a major pharmacologically active ingredient of herbal medicines such as Polygonum cuspidatum, Polygonum multiflorum, Rheum palmatum, and Aloe vera, is effective in antioxidant, antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, anticancer, and liver protection. In this study, to investigate the potential of emodin to be used as a skin disease and functional material, the activity related to the improvement of inflammation and skin barrier function was confirmed. To observe the anti-inflammatory effect on HaCaT cells, which are human keratinocytes, cytokine inhibition was confirmed by ELISA kit and protein expression by western blot. In HaCaT cells activated with TNF-α (10 ng/mL)/IFN-γ (10 ng/mL), emodin was treated with each concentration (5, 10, 20, 40) µM. As a result, It was confirmed that the production amount of TNF-α, IL-1β and IL-6 decreased as the concentration of emodin increased. In the experimental results on the expression levels of inflammation-related proteins iNOS and COX-2, it was confirmed that 48% of iNOS and 29% of COX-2 were inhibited compared to control at a concentration of 20 µM of emodin. As an indicator of skin barrier function improvement, the mRNA expression level of filaggrin, involucrin, and loricirn and the production amount of filaggrin, involucrin, and loricirn were confirmed. and excellent results were obtained with an emodin concentration-dependent increase. In particular, filaggrin, which was produced twice as much as the control at a concentration of 20 µM, is a protein involved in the formation of NMF, a natural moisturizing factor, and is known to play an important role in moisturizing the stratum corneum. In conclusion, it was confirmed that emodin can be used as a material for improving inflammation and improving skin barrier function, which is part of the potential for use as a skin disease and functional material. It is believed that if additional research is performed in the future, the scope of its application can be further expanded.

• Microbiology and Biotechnology Letters
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• v.38 no.1
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• pp.112-115
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• 2010

In this study, the antibacterial activity and the moisturizing effect of cream contaning Persicaria hydropiper L. extract were investigated by clinical trial. MIC values of ethyl acetate fraction from Persicaria hydropiper on P.acnes, S.aureus, P.ovale were 0.13~0.25%. The results showed that the antibacterial activity of the ethyl acetate fraction was higher than or equal to the methyl paraben and quercetin. The cream containing the ethyl acetate fraction of Persicaria hydropiper L. extracts was formulated for skin hydration effect. Also, the transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and the water contents in skin were measured. The cream containing Persicaria hydropiper L. extract was applied to the right lower arm. After 180 min, TEWL of parts was decreased as $6.5\;g/m^2h$ (experimental cream) and $7.5\;g/m^2h$ (placebo cream) respectively. And the water contents in skin were increased by 2~4% than the placebo cream. These results indicate that extract/fractions of Persicaria hydropiper L. can function as high potential as bactericide against the skin pathogenic bacteria and the increase of skin hydration of the cream containing extract could be applicable to new functional cosmetics for antiaging.