• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.36 no.1
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• pp.41-45
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• 2010

Emulsion body cleansing systems containing high levels of occlusives have recently been developed such as using insoluble crystalline hydroxy waxes, insoluble crystalline surfactant structures, encapsulated particles and smectite clay. In this study, moisturizing effect of various occlusives such as petrolatum and triglycerides was researched in emulsion body cleansing systems. The experiment shows that petrolatum has less moisturizing capacity in emulsion body cleansing systems than triglycerides. In "leave-on" products such as lotion and cream formulations, the moisturizing capacity of petrolatum is more than that of triglycerides, but in "wash-off" emulsion body cleanser of this research, different results appeared. Emulsion body cleansing systems contained high levels of anionic and amphoteric surfactants, therefore petrolatum has more solubility and less deposited amount into the skin during washing process than triglycerides.

• Journal of Pharmaceutical Investigation
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• v.38 no.2
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• pp.87-92
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• 2008

Wood vinegar is well known as a softening agent affecting on the stratum corneum that is easy to penetrate into the skin. In this study, we prepared mixed ursolic acid hydrogel with wood vinegar(1, 2, 5%) as a penetration enhancer. The accumulation of ursolic acid in the skin from hydrogels was evaluated in vitro hairless mouse skin and skin moisturizing effect of them was evaluated using the corneometer and the tewermeter. And the role of stratum corneum as a protective barrier was evaluated as well. The hydrogels were retained about 40% of water retention capacity 2hrs and had better effect on the stripped skin than full-thickness skin. The accumulation of ursolic acid through stripped skin from hydrogels with wood vinegar was not change compared to normal skin, which indicated the action site of wood vinegar and the accumulation site of ursolic acid would be stratum corneum. From these result, we could find wood vinegar seems to be a good enhancer for active materials with anti-wrinkle and anti aging effect such as ursolic acid, and can be a developed topical delivery system maintaining excellent water retention capacity.

• Korean Journal of Medicinal Crop Science
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• v.28 no.4
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• pp.260-275
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• 2020

Background: We investigated the antioxidant, anti-wrinkles, whitening, and moisturizing properties and amounts of phenolic compounds of ethanol extracts from flowers of 10 resource plants from Namwon and Mt. Jiri., Korea. Methods and Results: We measured antioxidant efficacy based on the total polyphenol, and total flavonoid content, and the 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) assay. We evaluated the inhibitory effect on melanin synthesis and tyrosinase activity for the whitening effect. Furthermore, we analyzed the elastase and matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) inhibition activity for anti-wrinkle capacity. To evaluate the moisturizing effect, we examined hyaluronan synthase (HAS) mRNA expression. In addition, the 19 phenolic compounds were detected using high performace liquid chromatography (HPLC). Among the 10 flowers, the antioxidant effect was high in the order of Rosa multiflora, Nelumbo nucifera, and Elsholtzia splendens. Whitening effect was high in the order of N. nucifera, R. multiflora, and Dendranthema zawadskii. As for the anti-wrinkle property, N. nucifera was the most effective followed by R. multiflora. Taraxacum coreanum was the best for moisturizing effect, followed by D. zawadskii, and E. splendens. Seven phenolic compounds were detected in the extracts of the 10 flowers. Conclusions: Overall, the extracts of five flowers extracts showed strong potential as antioxidant, whitening, anti-wrinkle, and moisturizing functional cosmetic agents.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.38 no.3
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• pp.197-200
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• 2012

To develop lipstick products with superior moisturizing effect using moisture base, bound water capacity and water holding capacity were investigated by DSC. Bound water capacity of the lipstick sample excluding moisture base is found to be 5.12 %. DSC measurement showed that bound water capacity and the concentration of moisture base were positively correlated. Additionally, DSC measurements and in vitro effective water holding capacity measurement showed similar patterns. Therefore, measuring of bound water capacity by DSC can predict the moisturizing effect of lipstick products.

• The Korean Journal of Physiology and Pharmacology
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.543-547
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• 2015

We investigated the combined moisturizing effect of liposomal serine and a cosmeceutical base selected in this study. Serine is a major amino acid consisting of natural moisturizing factors and keratin, and the hydroxyl group of serine can actively interact with water molecules. Therefore, we hypothesized that serine efficiently delivered to the stratum corneum (SC) of the skin would enhance the moisturizing capability of the skin. We prepared four different cosmeceutical bases (hydrogel, oil-in-water (O/W) essence, O/W cream, and water-in-oil (W/O) cream); their moisturizing abilities were then assessed using a $Corneometer^{(R)}$. The hydrogel was selected as the optimum base for skin moisturization based on the area under the moisture content change-time curves (AUMCC) values used as a parameter for the water hold capacity of the skin. Liposomal serine prepared by a reverse-phase evaporation method was then incorporated in the hydrogel. The liposomal serine-incorporated hydrogel (serine level=1%) showed an approximately 1.62~1.77 times greater moisturizing effect on the skin than those of hydrogel, hydrogel with serine (1%), and hydrogel with blank liposome. However, the AUMCC values were not dependent on the level of serine in liposomal serine-loaded hydrogels. Together, the delivery of serine to the SC of the skin is a promising strategy for moisturizing the skin. This study is expected to be an important step in developing highly effective moisturizing cosmeceutical products.

• Journal of Society of Preventive Korean Medicine
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.109-123
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• 2018

Purpose : In this study, we intended to observe the anti-wrinkle and moisturizing effects of dried pomegranate juice concentration powder (PCP) using in vitro test. Materials and methods : Antioxidant effects of PCP were determined by free radical scavenging capacity (DPPH assay) and the cytotoxicity of PCP was examined in human keratinocyte (HaCaT) and human primary dermal fibroblast-neonatal (HDF) cells. To investigate the moisturizing effect of PCP, hyaluronan synthesis was examined in HaCaT cells. Activity of procollagen production were assessed in HDF cells and elastase inhibition properties of PCP were evaluated in cell free condition, to determine their anti-wrinkle effects. Metalloproteinase 1 (MMP-1) activity was also assessed following UVB irradiation, in the current in vitro experiment. Results : No PCP treatment related significant cytotoxic effects were demonstrated against to the both HDF and HaCaT cells. PCP showed favorable free radical scavenging activities in dose-dependent manner. In PCP-treated HaCaT cells, hyaluronan synthesis was non-significantly but markedly increased, and pro-collagen productions were significantly increased in HDF cells, at all three different concentrations (0.25, 0.75 and 1 mg/ml), and elastase inhibitory activities were observed by PCP treatment. A significant decrease in UVB-induced MMP-1 activity was also observed in 1 mg/ml PCP-treated HDF cells as compared to those of UVB-exposed cells. Conclusions : Taken together, these results suggest that PCP has favorable antioxidant, anti-wrinkle and moisturizing effects without meaningful cytotoxicity on HDF and HaCaT cell lines.

• International Journal of Advanced Culture Technology
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.236-242
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• 2020

In this paper, we present the improvement in low moisturizing ability and stability that existing skin softeners have due to the low oil content, by developing skin softener using nanoemulsion of phospholipid liposome, based on the properties of nanoemulsion in cosmetic formulation. In this study, two types of oil; dimethicone (DC 200/6cs) or medium chain triglyceride (MCT), and two kinds of lecithin; unsaturated or saturated were respectively applied to produce nanoemulsion. In the particle size analysis of nanoemulsion, the droplet size of nanoemulsion containing DC200/6cs and unsaturated lecithin was the smallest, and all nanoemulsion showed high stability in the measurement of zeta potential. Therefore, with the smallest particle size and high stability, moisture contents and trans epidermal water loss(TEWL) were measured using the skin softener of DC200/6cs and unsaturated lecithin contained nanoemulsion, and the measurement was compared with the non-oil skin softener and the skin softener with only small amount of oil. The results showed that the moisture content of the skin softener using nanoemulsion increased greatly than other two skin softeners, showing high hydration ability and water retention capacity, and TEWL decreased greatly, therefore preventing the evaporation of moisture from the skin. As a result, the oil content and stability of the skin softener was improved by utilizing nanoemulson based of phospholipid liposome, and it is expected to be used in various ways in cosmetic industry.

• The Korea Journal of Herbology
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.133-139
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• 2009

Objectives : This study was designed to investigate the effects of alcoholic fermentation extract from ovary and rind of pear on human skin. Methods : We investigated the effects of samples on human skin in terms of clinical trial. 32 of healthy volunteers, who lived in mokpo participated in clinical trial. Effects of sample on hygroscopicity and water-holding capacity were investigated. Sebum, moisture, scabrousness and desquamation were also investigated. Facial massages were conducted 8 times in each volunteers. Results : Single treatment group showed elevated levels of hygroscopicity (Normal : 106.4$\pm$2.1%, vs Pear : 114.1$\pm$6.2) and water-holding capacity (Normal : 87.1$\pm$4.4%, vs Pear : 96.2$\pm$1.3) on forearm of 16 volunteers respectively. In addition, massage group using sample showed elevated moisture (Control : 3.8$\pm$5.8%, vs Sample : 15.2$\pm$4.7%) and lowered scabrousness levels (Control : -12.3$\pm$4.4%, vs Sample : -22.0$\pm$5.2%) significantly. However, the levels of sebum did not affected by sample. Conclusions : These result suggest that alcoholic fermentation extract from ovary and rind of pear has moisturizing effect on human skin.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.38 no.1
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• pp.75-82
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• 2012

Natural moisturizing factors (NMFs) are hydrophilic and water-soluble components in stratum corneum of the skin. NMFs absorb water from outer environment and enhance the water-holding capacity of stratum corneum and thereby, prevent the dryness and increase flexibility and plasticity of skin. NMFs are mainly composed of amino acids and their metabolites that are produced from the degradation of filaggrin. Here we established a simultaneous quantification method for 22 amino acids in tape-stripped stratum corneum samples using UPLC-PDA. With this method, we analyzed amino acid contents from tape-stripped stratum corneum samples of forearm and forehead regions from 15 healthy volunteers. Amino acid contents of inner (or upper) region were higher than outer (or lower) region of stratum corneum. Amino acid contents of stratum corneum of forearm were higher by 1.5 fold than forehead region. Of note, total amino acid contents were significantly and inversely correlated with trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), an index for skin barrier function. Especially, Ser, Glu, Gly, Ala and Thr were determined to positively affect skin mositurizing activities. In conclusion, we could demonstrate that amino acid contents of stratum corneum are closely linked with skin barrier and moisturizing function, providing an important and fundamental methodology for the study of amino acids in skin physiology.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.34 no.4
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• pp.727-736
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• 2017

In this study, the method of evaluation of moisturizing ability of cosmetics using specimens was studied as an alternative method of clinical tests. Cosmetic spreadability, surface drying, and moisture loss rate of four specimens (Japanese cake (Maru mochi), Garaetteok, wheat flour, and agar) were evaluated. Also, the water loss rate of the specimens and the transepidermal waterloss were analyzed for 10 kinds of lip make-up products (5 kinds of lipstick, 3 kinds of lip balm, 2 kinds of lip gloss). The moisture loss rate (moisture evaporation sensitivity) of the agar specimen was highest in the order of agar> Garaetteok> Japanese cake> wheat flour. Agar specimens are the most suitable in terms of spreadability, surface crack, and raw material supply. Containers for the preparation of agar specimens are suitable for plastic materials with low heat transfer, which can produce convex, smooth surface specimens. In the evaluation of moisturizing ability of lip makeup products, there was a strong correlation between the water loss rate and the transepidermal waterloss rate measured with agar specimens. These results show that the proposed method can be used as one of the useful alternative test methods.