• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.73-87
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• 2008

The main objective of this research was to investigate the characteristics of achromatic & chromatic color coordination of contemporary female fashion by reviewing 'pre-a-porter Collections' of four collections (i. e. cities) - Paris, Milan, New York, London - from the periods of 2002 S/S to 2006/7 A/W. The data was collected by reviewing 'pre-a-porter Collections' magazine and total 677 observations were made. Statistical analysis of frequency and also qualitative interpretation of achromatic & chromatic color coordination characteristics were completed. The main findings were; (1) The achromatic & chromatic color coordination was identified as one of most used color coordination in contmeporary women's fashion collections. (2) Black and white mainly used for achromatic color, and brown used the most often, then followed by blue, red, yellow, green and the others for chromatic color in achromatic & chromatic coordination of contmeporary women's fashion collections. (3) The characteristics of achromatic & chromatic color coordination of modern women's fashion collections from 2002 S/S to 2006/07 A/W showed various images according to chromatic colors and tone variation. The combination of achromaticand brown color variations produced an intelligent and sophisticated image. The soft or light chromatic color and chromatic color combination projected soft, feminine and subtle feeling, while the combination of vivid or strong chromatic color and achromatic color projected a clean and strong feeling through contrasting tones of clear and bright colors. The chromatic color of deep or dark tone and black combination demonstrated supernatural and gloomy image. (4)In all four collections, Paris showed most use of two color coordination and then followed by Milan, N.Y, and London. N.Y showed higher rate of using achromatic & chromatic color coordination, and then followed by Paris, London and Milan.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.2
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• pp.144-158
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• 2010

The concept and the typical characteristics of ethnic fashion were studied. 267 fashion designs from pret-$\grave{a}$-porter collections in Milan and New York from 2001 S/S to 2005 F/W were analyzed. The major conclusions of the study are as the following: The major types of ethnic fashion are Africa, American Indian, Japan, India, China, and Inca. Among these types, the first volume is Africa, the second is American Indian and others are Japan, India, China and Inca in order. Ethnic fashion changes in years showed reduction from 2001 to 2004, but much rise in 2005 showed more than 30% from 2001. Much more ethnic fashion designs were presented in S/S seasons than in F/W seasons. Africa ethnic fashion designs were more popular in S/S seasons. India ethnic fashion designs were more popular in F/W seasons. In the comparison of the Milan and New York collection, ethnic fashion designs appeared more in Milan collections than in New York from 2001 to 2003. But ethnic fashion designs appeared more in New York collections than in Milan in the year of 2005.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.45-57
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• 2022

This study aims to analyze the macramé technique used in costume design based on the cases from 2011 to 2020, when the macramé technique became popular. The research data are the results of analyzing the materials, clothing items, and structural combination of macramé knots by season, year, and collection from 2011 S/S to 2020 F/W, focusing on the four major fashion collections New York, Paris, London, and Milan. Macramé appeared often in the S/S season, and in the 2019 and 2020 S/S seasons, macramé was identified as a keyword for fashion trends based on its frequent usage. Overhand knots were used the most for the types of macramé knots used in costumes, and overhand knots were also used the most in the S/S season and in the New York, Paris, and Milan collections. Rope was the most frequently used material for macramé knots, and it was confirmed that it appeared frequently in 2011 and 2019, and ropes were also used often in the London, Milan, and Paris collections. One-piece appeared the most in the S/S season and F/W season as costume items. In addition, the costumes used as layers in the S/S season appeared most often, and in 2019 and 2020, the layered combination appeared most frequently in London and New York collections. It is judged that macramé appears repeatedly in the S/S season depending on the type of knot and is used as a layered look, making it a decorative element rather than a practical element. This study is expected to help develop modern fashion design by drawing attention to the value of the macramé technique expressed as handcrafted work.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.381-393
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• 2007

This study was intended to analyze and investigate a diversity of aesthetic values expressed in the military look of the Milan collections by using content analysis method to find what design characteristic and image emerged concretely in the later 20th century. A total of 334 military look works shown in fashion magazines such as Vogue and Collezioni Donna over the period between 1996 and 2000 were collected as research data, which were classified into 5 categories such as item, silhouette, color, color coordination, fashion image. The results were summarized as follows: first, it was found that coat was the most preferred item in expressing the military look image. Second, it was found that the straight line was the most preferred silhouette, which indicates that it was the most suitable silhouette in expressing the bisexual image of the military look. Third, in the colors of the military look, achromatic colors such as black and white were found to be of the highest frequency, which shows that achromatic colors continued to be proposed as fashionable colors around 1996 and this influence was reflected in the military look. Finally, in terms of the item of color coordination, monochromatic coordination accounted for more than half of the military look, through which it could be explained that designers utilized it greatly to make an effective expression of the masculine image.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.2
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• pp.116-130
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• 2011

Ethnic fashion and makeup were studied. 264 fashion designs from pret-$\`{a}$-porter collections in Milan and New York from 2001 S/S to 2005 F/W were analyzed. The major conclusions of the study are as the following: 1. The major types of ethnic fashion and makeup were Africa. American Indian. Japan, India. China and Inca. Makeup types expressed in ethnic fashion were soft smoky, smoky, retro, nature, avant-garde, eastern. 2. Makeup types expressed in ethnic fashion were used for the image for the designer's collections rather than ethnic features. Soft smoky and smoky makeup types were more used than others. 3. Soft smoky makeup types were more expressed in S/S seasons than in F/W seasons. In F/W seasons soft smoky and smoky makeup types were more expressed than other types. 4. Soft smoky and smoky makeup types were more expressed than others in Milan and New York collections commonly. 5. To emphasize the ethnic image for ethnic fashion, ethnic makeup arts like China, Japan, India, Africa, American Indian, Inca makeup arts and soft smoky, smoky makeup arts were represented.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.21-33
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• 2005

The main objective of this research was to understand the characteristics of identical color coordination through the analysis of modern female fashion color coordination as they appear in the 'Collections'. Data collection of 2026 was done through review of '$pr\hat{e}t-\grave{a}$-porter Collections' of four cities; Milan, London, New York, Paris. Lastly, statistical analysis of frequency and $X^2$-test and also qualitative interpretation of identical color coordination characteristics were completed. The main findings were; The color coordination of modern women's fashion produces a unified theme, or monochromatic harmony, through the use and coordination of identical colors. The clear contrast of tones portrays a strong image especially in achromatic color coordination, and through the use of texture variation, monochromatic color coordination becomes even more compelling. The tone variation, observed most often in monochromatic color coordination was the black and white contrast, which enhances the simplicity and clarity. Within chromatic color combinations, tone on tone color coordination was achieved by varying brightness. Furthermore, the observation of Faux Camaeu indicates that the coordination of different textures is used often in identical color coordination. While achromatic colors can lead to a hard and rough feeling, it also is compensated through the use of varying textures. In addition, adding variety of textures can add subtle interests to the simplicity of white. Lastly, in all four collections, the chromatic identical color coordination was found more frequently than the achromatic. In Paris, N.Y. & London, the chromatic identical coordination was used more often than chromatic. Milan showed most use of achromatic coordination. The use of the tones showed similar trends in all four collections, with contrasting tone being used most often, followed by similar and identical tones.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.53-64
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• 2014

The main objective of this research was to understand the characteristics of printed geometric patterns through the statistical & qualitative analysis of fashion appeared in contemporary female collections 2011 S/S to 2013 A/W. Data collection of 294 was done through review of 'pr$\hat{e}$t-$\grave{a}$-porter Collections' of three major fashion cities; Paris, Milan and NY. Statistical analysis of frequency was conducted. Also qualitative interpretation of natural print design' characteristics were completed. The main findings were as followed; 1,636 of the total 15,852 designs were printed patterns in 12 Collections and the occurrence rate of printed geometric patterns in three collections were 8.6% in Milan, 9.2% in Paris and 12.9% in N.Y. Most geometric patterns were the types of compact or medium density in a front patterns with a variety of sizes and mainly applied to the one piece dress or two piece clothing item combination styles. Formative Characteristics of printed geometric patterns were classified into four types. First, a variety of thicknesses and shapes, such as a line or a rectangle shape to take advantage of the types of the typical geometric pattern. Second types were using the motifs which inspired by geometric shapes such as point, circle star and other special geometric shapes and arranging them regularly with various sizes and density. The third was repeated particular motifs which based on complex and sophisticated mathematical formulas. Fourth were the specific diagram types of bold and free shapes or dividing the flat and arranging them without rules, or the combination type of various geometric motifs.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.91-109
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• 2013

The main objective of this research was to understand the latest trends of natural print design through the quantitative & qualitative analysis of fashion appeared in contemporary female collections. The research criteria was defined as 3 seasons from 2011 S/S to 2012 S/S. Data collection of 726 was done through review of 'pr$\hat{e}$t-$\grave{a}$-porter Collections' of three major fashion cities; Paris, Milan and NY. Statistical analysis of frequency with chi-square test was conducted. Also qualitative interpretation of natural print design' characteristics was completed. The main findings were as follows.; The average occurrence rate of natural print design from 2011SS to 2012 SS in three collections were 6.4% in Milan 6.4%, 5.5% in Paris and 6.8% in N.Y. The five source types of natural prints in contemporary women's fashion collections were identified and the order of their appearance were as follows: flowers, plants, animals, insects & marine organisms and compound one. The plant prints were expressed by stylized or realistic touch. Flower patterns showed more variables than plants, however, there were no big difference in their image and major characteristics. The animal prints demonstrated two aspects. First one used typical animal print of fur or skin, but the other one draw the animal figure like paintings. The compound source type presented the most interesting and fresh pattern design ideas. In the insects & marine organisms, mainly butterfly and seashell & starfish, etc. appeared as real shapes or sometimes were stylized.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2001.08a
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• pp.75-77
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• 2001

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.6
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• pp.125-136
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• 2009

The main objective of this research was to understand the characteristics of complementary color scheme through the analysis of contemporary women's fashion color coordination as they appear in the 'Collections'. Data collection of 115 was done through review of 'pr$\hat{e}$t-$\grave{a}$-porter Collections' of four cities; Milan, London, New York, Paris. Statistical analysis of frequency and also qualitative interpretation of characteristics of complementary color harmony characteristics which appeared in four collections were completed. The main findings were as followed; (1) Only 115 complementary color schemes out of 4968 two color combinations appeared. Compared the comparative ratios of appearance frequency between the two color combination and the complementary color harmony, London showed the highest, and followed by New York, and Milan and Paris. (2)The combined color type of 'red+green' was the most frequently appeared, and followed by 'violet+yellow' and 'orange+blue'. For the type of tone harmony, the contrast tone showed the most, and followed by the similarity and identity. According to the type of complementary color combination, the type of tone harmony used differently. Some differences showed in the types of color harmony and tone harmony between collections. (3) The complementary color scheme which shown in four collections harmonized two opposite colors mainly through the strong tone contrast and this could cause tension along with interest in the image. The complementary colors intensified and brought out the attributes each other. More details, high contrast of two complementary colors of yellow and violet created a vibrant look especially when used at higher saturation. Sometimes, however, some tone variations of two hues neutralized the strong effect and sometimes enhanced each other. When they used in similarity tones or identity tones in light colors, the tension was reduced and became softened but still presented nice harmony. In the type of 'red+green' color harmony, the various color combinations were demonstrated, mostly through tone manipulation of green color. The similarity tone harmony, which used the most, could effect a better sense of harmony and present more sophisticated looks. When used in contrast tone harmony, some changes in its own color which have only one color of two the excessive intensity led a good harmony. The 'orange+blue' color harmony was shown the least and used three tone harmony almost the same ratio. In this color harmony, blue amplified its energy and brilliance of orange and seemed to work better when one color was at a lower intensity than the other. In harmony with a similarity and an identity tone, this color harmony produces a stable and calm image. (4) The complementary scheme appeared more frequently in the S/S collections than in A/W collections and showed some differences in the types of color harmony and tone harmony between seasons, however, no big differences between collections.