• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.31 no.3
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• pp.309-318
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• 2015

The staff given with chair to Yi Gyeong-seok, senior official over 70 years old by King Hyeonjong of Joseon Dynasty is representative handcraft of Joseon Dynasty. Results of analysis on the metallic decoration show that the metallic ornament of the end part which is connected to the spade was made by rolling of iron plate and brass plating. The plated part is limited to the ornament of the end part connected to the spade and the plating was not applied to the spade. Brass including 20% zinc was used for the connecting part of guard while brass gilded iron was used for the spade. This suggests that the tone of the connecting part of the guard and the spade was not different for reason of visual harmonization. Potential applied plating method can be amalgam, dippping in molten brass, and brushing but the analysis result suggests that dipping in molten brass method is the most likely accepted method. The brass guard of knife was joined by tin-lead solder. Rivet used to fix the blade was made by pure iron as an optimum material which satisfies flexibility and strength.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.3
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• pp.123-130
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• 2008

Symbolizing holiness, wealth and power, golden color was most effective to express the absolute power of royal family and aristocratic society as well as the beauty of magnificent and brilliant authority. Such golden color was understood as the artistic color formed in the dictatorial society as well as the society under the rule of absolute monarch. Thus, it has been used in the costume that symbolizes nobleness, holiness, brilliancy, ethnicity and future-oriented property. In this sense, the image of golden color shown in contemporary fashion was analyzed as follows in this research: First, showing the future-oriented image, golden color expresses avant-garde, cyber and cosmic future-oriented image by using diverse new materials which introduce the state-of-the-art technology sense in addition to metallic textile. Second, getting hint from the ethnic costume of many countries around the world such as brilliant embroidery using golden-thread, ornament with exaggerated technique such as gold foil, mark and character in peculiar tint, the ethnic image of golden color expressed the peculiar color or materials of ethnic costume, handicraft details, etc in golden color. Third, since golden color is expressed in ostentatious image to which elegance and luxuriousness that looks like the work of haute-couture costume of royal family or sensuality that voluptuously expresses the beautiful body line of women are added, the viewers are enchanted or attracted.

• Conservation Science in Museum
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• v.26
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• pp.83-182
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• 2021

This study summarized the results of the conservation treatment and investigation on the production method of the golden crown (Treasure No. 339) excavated from Tomb No. 129 (also known as Seobongchong Tomb) in Noseo-dong, Gyeongju-si, Gyeongsangbuk-do Province. The golden crown from Seobongchong Tomb was discovered during the excavations conducted by the Museum of the Government-General of Korea in 1926 during the Japanese colonial era. It is currently in the collection of the National Museum of Korea. A total of six Silla golden crowns have survived in Korea, among which the crown from Seobongchong Tomb is the only example with a dome-shaped hemispherical decoration attached with a bird ornament while otherwise showing the typical features of Silla crowns. The crown had been repaired following its excavation using metallic materials and adhesives, but due to the partial deformation and damage brought about by the repair materials, it required further conservation treatment. This article describes in detail the overall process of the conservation treatment and the restoration of the original form of the golden crown from Seobongchong Tomb, particularly the method of reinforcing the joints to secure the stability of the crown. It presents the characteristics of the crown's production as revealed in the investigation during the conservation treatment, and further analyzes the relationship of this crown from Seobongchong Tomb with other Silla crowns through a comparison of their production techniques. The investigation revealed that the crown was primarily decorated with golden sequins at the time of its production. At a later point some of the sequins in the upright ornament were replaced with comma-shaped jade beads and additional comma-shaped jade beads were added to the headband. In order to determine if such modifications to the decoration had occurred with other Silla crowns, the decoration of the six extant Silla golden crowns were investigated. The crown from Cheonmachong Tomb features traces of this same modification to the decoration and possesses other similarities with the crown from Seobongchong Tomb.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.46 no.2
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• pp.4-25
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• 2013

Goli-su is the innovative special kind of the embroidery technique, which combines twining and interlacing skill with metal technology and makes the loops woven to each other with a strand. The loops floating on the space of the ground look like floating veins of sculpture and give people the feeling of the openwork. This kind of characteristic has some similarities with the lacework craft of Western Europe in texture and technique style, but it has its own features different from that of Western Europe. It mainly represents the splendid gloss with metallic materials in the Embroidered cloth, such as gold foil or wire. In the 10th century, early days of Goryo, we can see the basic Goli-su structure form of its initial period in the boy motif embroidery purse unearthed from the first level of Octagonal Nine-storied Pagoda of Woljeong-sa. In the Middle period of Joseon, there are several pieces of Goli-su embroidered relic called "Battle Flag of Goryo", which was taken by the Japanese in 1592 and is now in the Japanese temple. This piece is now converted into altar-table covers. In 18~19th century, two pairs of embroidered pillows in Joseon palace were kept intact, whose time and source are very accurate. The frame of the pillows was embroidered with Goli-su veins, and some gold foil papers were inserted into the inside. The triangle motif with silk was embroidered on the pillow. The stitch in the Needle-Looped embroidery is divided into three kinds according to comprehensive classification: 1. Goli-su ; 2. Goli-Kamgi-su ; 3. Goli-Saegim-su. From the 10th century newly establishing stage to the 13th century, Goli-su has appeared variational stitches and employed 2~3 dimensional color schemes gradually. According to the research of this thesis, we can still see this stitch in the embroidery pillow, which proves that Goli-suwas still kept in Korea in the 19th century. And in terms of the research achievement of this thesis, Archetype technology of Goli-su was restored. Han Sang-soo, Important Intangible Cultural Heritage No. 80 and Master of Embroidery already recreated the Korean relics of Goli-su in Joseon Dynasty. The Needle-Looped embriodery is the overall technological result of ancestral outstanding Metal craft, Twining and Interlacing craft, and Embroidery art. We should inherit, create, and seek the new direction in modern multi-dimensional and international industry societyon the basis of these research results. We can inherit the long history of embroidering, weaving, fiber processing, and expand the applications of other craft industries, and develop new advanced additional values of new dress material, fashion technology, ornament craft and artistic design. Thus, other crafts assist each other and broaden the expressive field to pursue more diversified formative beauty and beautify our life abundantly together.