• 복식
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• 제62권7호
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• pp.117-132
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• 2012

This study explored public awareness and donning practices of traditional and religious dresses among Indonesian Muslim. The relevant literature was reviewed first, and in-depth interviews and survey were followed to achieve the purpose of the study. Sarung and Kain Panjang are the most representative unisex traditional clothing of Indonesia. Traditional male dresses include Kemeja Batik, Beskap, Peci(Kopiah) and Blangkon. Traditional female dresses include Kebaya, Baju Kurung, Baju Bodo, Kemben, Rok Batik and Slendang. Baju Koko, Sarung and Peci(Kopiah) are the most well-known Muslim male dress items. Muslim female dresses are more diverse than men's. For traditional and religious dresses, which were identified from literature study, public awareness and donning practices were examined with survey data. Indonesian people consider Kebaya, Sarung, and Batik as the most important traditional dresses which convey national identity. Peci(Kopiah), Baju koko, and Jilbab(Kerudung) are highly mentioned as the representatives of Muslim dresses. Indonesian Muslims report that they own these representative dresses commonly. Peci and Sarung are included both in religious and traditional dresses, demonstrating that the two items are the representative crossovers of their religion and the tradition of the country. For both traditional and Muslim dresses, Indonesian people think that aesthetics and traditional values are more relevant than practical value. Lastly, it is found that traditional dresses are parts of the daily wear of Indonesian people from the fact that they wear traditional dresses more than once a week.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제43권6호
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• pp.856-865
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• 2019

This study analyzed the effect of wearing a vest with an attached electric fan. Korean men in their 20s were given test "fan vests" equipped with fans on the chest, stomach, upper back, or lower back to wear. Participants wore them in a climate chamber set to replicate a summer environment (30±3℃, 75±1%RH, 0.2 m/sec). Subjective sensations and surface temperatures were measured. The attached fan on the front of the vest lowered the temperature of the vest and the skin surface where the fan was positioned, regardless of whether the wearer engaged in exercise. However, a fan attached to the lower back of the vest was effective in lowering the lower back of the vest as well as the upper back, back of the arm, and back of the neck. In addition, subjective evaluations indicated that a vest with fans attached to the stomach and lower back provided a cool sensation. However, it was confirmed that the design of an auxiliary tool capable of dispersing the weight is necessary since the weight of the fans can interfere with the comfort of wearing the vest.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제26권3호
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• pp.138-154
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to identify the characteristics of domestic American casual fashion trends using big data text mining analysis. 108,524 posts and 2,038,999 extracted keywords from Naver and Daum related to American casual fashion in the past 5 years were collected and refined by the Textom program, and frequency analysis, word cloud, N-gram, centrality analysis, and CONCOR analysis were performed. The frequency analysis, 'vintage', 'style', 'daily look', 'coordination', 'workwear', 'men's wear' appeared as the main keywords. The main nationality of the representative brands was Japanese, followed by American, Korean, and others. As a result of the CONCOR analysis, four clusters were derived: "general American casual trend", "vintage taste", "direct sales mania", and "American styling". This study results showed that Japanese American casual clothes are influenced by American casual clothes, and American casual fashion in Korea, which has been reinterpreted, is completed with various coordination and creative styles such as workwear, street, military, classic, etc., focusing on items and brands. Looks were worn and shared on social networks, and the existence of an active consumer group and market potential to obtain genuine products, ranging from second-hand transactions for limited edition vintages to individual transactions were also confirmed. The significance of this study is that it presented the characteristics of American casual fashion trends academically based on online text data that the public actually uses because it has been spread by the public.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제18권3호
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• pp.289-300
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• 2016

This study surveys children's costumes and games from the 11 Genre paintings by Junkeun Kim in the book "Korean Games(Stewart Culin 1858-1929)". The character of the general dress-costumes, games and the culture of life from the late $19^{th}$ century in genre painting of Junkeun Kim are as follows. The study results on the games are as follow. The boy's games are kite-flying, spinning tops, playing shuttlecock with the feet, blindman's buff, yut("Four-Stick Game"). Girl's games are seesaw with board, blindman's buff, marbles. Combined games are mount shoulder, sledge, tightrope walking for men with boy. The strengthen one's body type were seesaw with board, tightrope walking, the compete score type were playing shuttlecock with the feet, marbles and the multi complex type were yut("Four-Stick Game"), kite-flying. Through genre painting in the $19^{th}$ century we know a boy's 'Jeogori 'and 'Ba-ji' were similar to a modern man's and boy's 'Hanbok' with a traditional method of wearing. We believe that the originality of a traditional costume was an unchangeable characteristic. Girl's 'Jeogori' and 'Chi-ma' changed in length and width, and method of wearing; however, the basic shape did not change. The analysis for artist's genre painting which was ordered by a foreigner and the late of $19^{th}$ century's children's costume and game of life culture is useful to match the counters and show how to wear a modern Korean costume used to understand the 'Hanbok' and establish a costume of life.

• 복식
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• 제65권7호
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• pp.129-144
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• 2015

This study is aimed to better understand the lifestyle and fashion trend of Korea in 1954 and 1955, a period right after the Korean War. The study examined "The Journey of Duty", which was a color slide film of Seoul and Suwon made by a US soldier stationed in Korea during that time, as well as various documents. The films are assumed to be outcomes of the US Army wanting to record the situation in Korea, and the study was able to use 110 of the slides to examine the fashion trend of the times. There are three noticeable trends shown on "The Journey of duty". Koreans in western clothes, women wearing work pants called Momppae, and black color being in fashion. Most of the men and the children either wore only western clothes or western clothes with the Hanbok. But women rarely wore western-style clothing, such as blouse with skirt. They usually wore Hanbok or wore reformed Hanbok. The work pants, Momppae, becoming an everyday wear is the most unique finding from the slides. Women either wore just the pants or over the traditional Korean skirt. Black-colored clothes were in fashion. This color first spread after the Costume Reform Movement in the 1920s' and the prohibition of white robe. The wearing of white clothes did increase after the Korean liberation in 1945, as national spirit was promoted. However, many people still wore black due to economic reasons, as we as practical reasons. So the Korean fashion in 1954-1955 was in a transition period, as people were beginning to change their daily wears from traditional Korean costumes to western-styled clothes. The reasons for this change could be attributed to people only having access to western goods, as well as their awareness of western-styled clothes being more practical.

• 자연과학논문집
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• 제8권2호
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• pp.225-236
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• 1996

본 연구는 텍스타일 디자인의 세 가지 분야인, 직조 디자인, 날염 디자인, 그리고 니트 디자인에 대해 살펴보았고, CAD 시스템을 이용하여 이들 텍스타일 디자인을 도식화 및 패션 디자인에 입혀봄으로써 텍스타일 디자인에 어울리는 패션 디자인을 선택할 수 있는 텍스타일 디자인과 패션 디자인을 연결시키는 작업 과정에 대해서 살펴보았다. 그 결과는 다음과 같다. 1. CAD 시스템의 프로그램을 이용하여 직조 디자인, 날염 디자인, 그리고 니트디자인 등을 디자이너가 머릿속에 그리는 이미지를 몇 번이고 쉽고 빠르게 구체화시켜 창작할 수 있었다.2. T셔츠 도식화에 이들 CAD 시스템의 프로그램을 이용하여 창작한 텍스타일 디자인을 입혀보았다.3. 창작한 직조 디자인은 여성 의류에, 날염 디자인은 아동복에 그리고 니트 디자인은 남성 복의 스웨터에 각각 입혀 보았다.이들 작업 과정을 통하여 CAD 시스템이 실무 디자이너들에게 얼마나 효율적인지에 대해 살펴보면 다음과 같다.1. 패션 디자인에 날염, 직조, 그리고 니트 디자인 등이 어울리는지를 모니터 상에서 알아봄으로써 실제 쌤플 제작에 드는 시간과 비용을 절감할 수 있다.2. 모니터 상에서 다양한 other color작업과 소재, 패턴 개발이 가능하고 제품 방향에 대한 신속한 의사결정을 할 수 있으므로 다품종 소량 체제를 갖출 수 있다.3. 제품이나 쌤플 제작 이전에 바이어들의 의사결정을 유도할 수 있으며, 바이어의 의향을 최대로 반영한 디자인을 즉석에서 구현시킬 수 있으므로 짧은 시간 내에 많은 제품의 주문을 받을 수 있다.4. 디자인 정보를 매년마다 체계적으로 관리할 수 있으며, 다시 활용할 수도 있음으로 정보를 얻기 위한 시간과 경비를 절감할 수 있다.5. 디자이너와 하청 업체간의 업무 간소화로 디자이너들이 독창적인 디자인 개발을 하는데 효과적일 뿐 아니라, 외주 용역비, 교통비등의 비용 또한 절감할 수 있다.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제22권2호
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• pp.300-312
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• 2014

This study seeks to offer practical suggestions for manufacturing jacket lining patterns through research on menswear brands. A researcher conducted interviews with a survey instrument targeting 12 menswear brands. To analyze the data, descriptive statistics were obtained using SPSS 18.0. The main findings were as follows. First, regarding lining production, most menswear brands were found to provide jacket lining patterns to their subcontractors, and pattern makers were found to design lining patterns based on their own know-how. The most important factor in the production of jacket lining patterns is whether linings are cut more than once during the sewing process. For suit jackets, linings are cut more than once, and for casual jackets, linings are cut once. Second, with regard to jacket production for different jacket styles, most menswear brands were found to use patterns that include seam allowance. Partial linings showed differences in terms of the methods used to sew edges and attach linings to the outer shell. Third, extra space in jacket lining patterns varied according to style. Jacket lining patterns for suit jackets and casual jackets showed differences in extra space in the following areas: the parts that cover the chest(suit jacket linings: 5.6cm, casual jacket linings: 2.4cm), the parts that cover the waist(suit jacket linings: 3.8cm, casual jacket linings: 1.3cm), hem(suit jacket linings: 2.7cm, casual jacket linings: 1.3cm), and bicep(suit jacket linings: 2.7cm, casual jacket linings: 1.1cm). However, extra space in the sleeve hems was identical for the two styles(suit jacket linings: 0.1cm, casual jacket linings: 0.1cm). Therefore, this research suggests that clothing manufacturers design linings in accordance with the jacket lining production style.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제10권2호
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• pp.83-98
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• 2006

With the subjects of male consumers in their 20s to 40s living in the Ningbo area in Zhejiang Province, this study aims to investigate into the reality of their purchase attitude and size fitness of ready-made suits. The results are as follows; Looking into their demographic characteristics, 70.6% of the subjects were twenties, 60.6% were single, and educational career stood in the order of college, middle school, and high school graduation. They were largely absorbed in free trade, followed by teaching, commerce and service industry. 59.6% of them were Zhejiang Province belongs. One to two thousand yuan was the greatest portion of their monthly income. As for their purchase attitude of ready-made suits, they thought higher of material, quality, activity, and solidity than of design. They preferred to buy clothes at a department store. There was significant difference between purchase frequency and purchase price according to monthly income and jobs. Concerning brand recognition, the Chinese subjects favored "Youngor." Though Korea's brands were very lowly recognized, Korean products received really high recognition. Compared with China's brands, they found foreign brands excellent in design, followed by material/matter, wear, and sewing. As to their physical satisfaction and the size fitness of clothes, most subjects felt happy with their sizes. Trousers and jackets were among the unfitting suit items, while the girth of waist was the least satisfactory size. Therefore, in order to raise the market occupation rate of Korean suit goods in China, more aggressive marketing strategies are required to utilize the current Korean-style entertainment and maximize concerning brand images. In particular, outstanding products in consideration of prices should be made through the proper patternmaking to reflect the body types of the Chinese.

• 감성과학
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• 제25권4호
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• pp.33-44
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• 2022

최근 들어 한옥마을과 같은 전통문화를 즐길 수 있는 장소에서 한복 대여를 통해 남녀노소 누구나 쉽게 한복을 체험할 수 있게 되었다. 또한 한복을 착용하는 데서 그치지 않고 인증샷을 찍어 SNS에 공유함으로써 한복 체험이 선풍적인 인기를 얻게 되었다. 하지만 한옥마을과 같은 특정한 장소에서 할 수 있는 한복 체험을 제외하고는 일상생활에서 한복의 대중화는 어려운 실정이다. 따라서 한복을 일상복으로 대중화하기 위해서는 한복의 편의성뿐만 아니라 한복에서 느껴지는 감성적인 만족까지 반영하여 한복을 디자인을 하는 것이 중요하다. 본 연구는 선행연구를 통해 추출한 한복에서 느끼는 소비자의 감성을 표현하기 위한 감성 어휘 28개를 활용하여 한복 유형별로 느껴지는 소비자의 감성을 7점 리커드 척도로 측정하였다. 그리고 한복 유형별로 '느껴진다'에 해당하는 5점 이상의 점수를 기록한 감성 어휘와 감성 카테고리를 분석하였다. 또한 한복 유형별로 성별에 따른 감성 카테고리의 평균차이를 검증하였으며, 그 결과 호감 카테고리에서만 남녀 간의 유의한 차이가 있었다. 마지막으로 한복 유형을 전통 한복(배냇저고리, 색동저고리, 성인 전통 한복, 전통 혼례복)과 현대 한복(아동 생활 한복, 여자 생활 한복, 남자 생활 한복)으로 구분하여 감성 카테고리의 평균차이를 검증한 결과 6개의 감성 카테고리인 '유쾌감, 심미감, 조화감, 신선감, 호감, 안정감'에서 전통한복과 현대한복 간의 유의한 차이가 있었다. 본 연구에서 도출한 한복 유형별로 느껴지는 감성어휘에 대한 분석 결과는 소비자에게 보다 감성적인 만족을 제공하는데 도움이 되리라 기대된다.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제9권1호
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• pp.24-34
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• 2007

The shroud of the Chosun dynasty period originally meant the new start in the next world. Its basic principle was to wear the best clothes or wedding garments during one's life. The white hemp cloth-shroud worn during this time was formed after the 20th century. In the beginning it started simply by imitating the shroud of the common people. However recently many aspects of the trade have deteriorated by the commercialism of the shroud traders. So this study focuses on the way of keeping traditions and making the shroud desirable. First, the shroud was made of the best materials such as silk, hemp cloth, ramie cloth and cotton cloth in the past. A thought that the shroud material must be white hemp cloth is the result from misunderstanding of the traditional shroud of the Chosun dynasty period. We can produce beautiful shrouds using natural materials without losing dignity and at diverse prices. Second, the shroud was produced not only to keep the dignity of a dead person but also to avoid wasting the original cloth. Third, The shroud has pursued diversity in classifying the traditional style or the basic style. It is possible to select the shroud flexibly according to one's sense of values or the way the tomb was made. These days, the Korean full-dress attire and Wonsam (Korean woman's ceremonial clothes) are the standardized form of the ready-made shroud. The man's Korean full-dress attire on sale is sewn in the wrong way and its shape looks more like the Wonsam. I offer diverse shrouds of the Chosun dynasty period, for example, the official uniform, hemp cloth upper garment, men's black upper garment, Korean full-dress attire, Korean overcoat, Wonsam, the long hood worn by a Korean woman and a woman's long upper garment, so that we can see the Korean originality and beauty through the different types of shrouds. Also, I adjusted a number of items, undergarments and other articles according to the price. As mentioned before this study helps to portray a desirable understanding of the culture of the shroud. So I corrected many problems of the present shroud and propose a new type of shroud based on tradition. Furthermore, I recommend a way of making use of the Hanbok which the man wears during his life, at the wedding ceremony or a his 60th birthday without buying a new shroud.