• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.20 no.5
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• pp.45-59
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• 2016

This research is a study to develop basic block patterns for adult males. The subjects were 20 men in their 20s, and we tested 6 basic bodice blocks that are used in academia and industry. First, a comparative analysis of the patterns of the bodice blocks was conducted and the test garments were made, and then their appearances were evaluated during wearing tests. Based on the test results, we intended to select a bodice block that is a good fit when it is put on and to use it as basic data in order to design a man's bodice block for the future. The research results are as follows: First, a comparison of the 6 bodice block drafts showed that they used differently calculated ease allowances at chest circumference and width, waist circumference, shoulder length, etc. for which the upper chest circumference is used as a reference. Second, when the appearances of the test garments were tested, the average scores were high in the order of B> H> P> K> M> L. Pattern B was superior in the areas of the neck circumference and shape, ease allowance at the back of the neck, circumference of the front of the neck, location of side width, ease allowance at sides, armhole width and depth. But in the other test items, there were cases where other patterns were superior.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.5
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• pp.35-50
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to investigate the result of a market research on men's jacket in their age of 25 to 35, who wear fitted jackets most, and to examine the comparative analysis of pattern and the wearing evaluation between classic jacket and fitted jacket. The results are as follows; Firstly, according to the results of a market research, 32.0% of the target owned fitted jackets, and 28.7% expressed their desire to buy only fitted jackets. This means their concern and preference for fitted jacket with which they could show up young, fresh and slim look are as high as those for classic jacket. Secondly, classic jacket showed the higher value than fitted jacket in such items as chest girth, waist girth, hip girth, sleeve's hem girth, jacket length, shoulder length, side seam length, and across shoulder point length. On the other hand, fitted jacket showed the higher value than classic jacket in back armhole length, front length, collar point length and sleeve's vent length. Thirdly, classic jacket was larger than fitted jacket in 1/2 chest girth(1.0cm), 1/2 waist girth(2.0cm), 1/2 hip girth(1.0cm), back width(0.5cm), front width(0.5cm) and side width(1.0cm). However, fitted jacket was higher than classic jacket in the armhole depth(0.5). Fourthly, the results of appearance evaluation revealed that there was a significant difference in 6 items. In other words, classic jacket was evaluated more appropriate than fitted jacket in such items as back width, back length, back neck depth, chest girth, waist girth and hip girth. And the fitted jacket had a higher value than the classic jacket in shoulder angle item. Fifthly, In the functional evaluation, fitted jacket was evaluated more uncomfortable than classic jacket. And this means that fitted jacket doesn't have a proper ease amount in each part and it has a high armhole depth compared to classic jacket. Therefore, for more comfortable patternmaking of fitted jackets, it would be required a pattern design which reflect men's own shoulder lines and women designers' flexibility that will satisfy both appearance and function.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.1-15
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to analyze the image perception of dress shirts according to perceiver's residency and shirts style, and to investigate the shirts preference according to style of dress shirts, and to find out the men's aesthetics consciousness for shirts, and to analyze between the image perception and the usage of mass-media, for developing the possibility & strategy of the dress shirts market in men's wear market for the apparel marketers and manufactures. For this study, the data obtained from 321 respondents were analyzed by descriptive statistics, Pearson's simple correlation, ANOVA. The results from the study were as follow ; The 6 stimuli for image perception rated on 5 point Likert-type scales in the 12 features were evaluated by perceivers. By the best 3 features abstracted, shirts style concepts were decided such as, Basic style by the best 3 features of the first stimulus, and Soft style by the best 3 features of the second stimulus, and Sophisticate style by the best 3 features of the third stimulus, and Modern casual style by the best 3 features of the fourth stimulus, and Modern mannish style by the best 3 features of the fifth stimulus, and Trendy style by the best 3 features of the sixth stimulus. The modern casual style was estimated highly by respondents in Daejon. The respondents in Seoul prfered the basic style to other style. There were significant differences in evaluating between preferences of shirts style and pattern. Of the 82 respondents(26.8%) with the preference of bold london stripe, the 52 respondents estimated Modern casual style in bold london stripe. The fashion consciousness of the respondents in Seoul was estimated higher than in Daejon. But, the respondents in Daejon in the consciousness for the coordination knit cardigan and V zone was estimated higher than in Seoul. Also, the 31 respondents with the preference of Sophisticate style were the highest in fashion consciousness. The respondents estimated that the first important thing in buying dress shirts is 'Design(41.4%). and next is quality(17.8%). Results revealed that Daks ranked best brand (13.7%), and Renoma ranked best two brand (6,5%). And, the 35.5% respondents estimated that the first important information which influenced on buying dress shirts was the store display, next was internet(15.9%). Finally, I propose that the best strategy for men with low fashion consciousness is to upgrade salesmen' coordination technic and fabric knowledge, and store management with story attracting customers.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.40-59
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to investigate the shirt market, to find out the shirt trend in 2005 A/W, to analysis shirt style Preference, and to investigate the shirts purchase attitude according to the income, age, and occupation of the 321 respondents, for developing the possibility & strategy of the dress shirts market in men's wear for the apparel marketers and manufactures. For this study, the data obtained from 321 respondents were analyzed by descriptive statistics. The results from the study were as follows ; In 2005 A/W, Countessmara, Daks, Dupont, Renoma, and Yesac were commomly distributed in 5 department stores in Daejon and Seoul. There were seen trends that were pursuing a various fabric, colors, details, and high-touch design in shirt. Men workers prefered the Basic and Modern casual style to Soft, Sophisticated, Modern mannish, and Trendy style shirt. The 133(41.4%)respondents estimated that the important viewpoint in purchasing dress shirts was 'Design. The 212(66%) respondents estimated that they prefered the different shirt brand from their suits. And results revealed that Daks ranked best brand (13.7%), and Renoma ranked best two brand (6,5%). The 103 (32.1%) respondents estimated that they possessed the three shirts per one suits. The 201(62.6%) respondents estimated that they prefered the department store for purchasing shirt. And, the 114(35.5%) respondents estimated that the first important information source which influenced on purchasing dress shirts was the store display, next was internet(15.9%).

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.27 no.3
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• pp.75-95
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• 2023

This study aims to investigate the color characteristics and utilization of Amekaji fashion in the domestic casual market, with a focus on menswear. A total of 1,882 color data were extracted from 11 representative brands of Amekaji. This results of the study showed that PB, Bk, YR, and Y colors were highly utilized in the overall color, and dkg, g, ltg, and p tones were highly utilized. In particular, R color was highly utilized in the point color, as it was developed into six tones, including v, with high saturation. The analysis by the brand showed that the highest number of colors were extracted from 'Kapital', which is famous for its vintage-style patchwork and dyeing, and that 'PB' and 'Bk' were heavily utilized. By the item, PB colors were mainly utilized for denim, and shirts were diversified with 9 tones. W, a neutral color, was mainly used on clothing tops such as shirts, knits, and T-shirts. This study provides valuable insights into the color sensitivity of Amekaji fashion, which can be used as a useful resource for design development and product planning in the industry. As a future study, we suggest analysis of the utilization of Amekaji colors in the Korean men's casual market along with American and Japanese brands.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.1
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• pp.99-109
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to survey sizing system and preferable ease and to decide the body measuring items for pattern making in a men's dress shirt for mass customization industry that is rising to the surface as a new production system. For this, it had a survey subjects were 254 males between 25 to 44 years old who wear dress shirt frequently and the relevant on line companies, and analyzed the garment sizing system and preferable ease. Collected data were analysed by frequency analysis, t-test, $X^2-test$, and ANOVA using SPSS 12.0 for window. Garment pattern making should reflect the sizes of the body parts well, and simplification of the ordering process would work as an important variable. In relation to the preferable ease, older people preferred more ease while younger people preferred fit ease. In relation to the sizes, people wearing the size of '110' preferred more ease than the size of '90'. And people weighing over 90kg preferred sufficient ease than less weighing. People height over 170cm people preferred sufficient ease for the length between shoulders than height under 170cm. In case of the companies had no consistent sizing system. Significant difference was found in the sizes, except for the size of '100', among those companies, there was significant difference in the length between shoulders and the length of the shirt among those companies and those sizes. Significant body parts for a garment pattern making was height, the circumference of the neck, the chest circumference, the length between biacromion, the arms length, and the waist circumference.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.82-97
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• 2016

This study attempted to summarize the characteristics of fashion in the 1930s which were the background of 'Bonnie and Clyde' and analyze how fashion in the 1930s was expressed through costume in the movie, focusing on some critical scenes. For this, previous studies and domestic & foreign books, magazines and DVDs relating to movie costume were examined. For analysis of movie costume, 'Bonnie and Clyde (1967)' DVD was referred to. In the movie, meaningful scenes were captured using a GOM Player. Then, the study results found the followings: First, in terms of women's fashion in the 1930s, adult look and slim & long silhouette which naturally revealed breast, waist and hip with a long skirt, a military look with strong shoulders and tailored costume were found. In terms of men's fashion, in contrast, the Duke of Windsor Style (a slim silhouette jacket and loose pants) was popular. Second, in the movie, Bonnie's costume started with a slim linen H-line dress at her first meeting with Clyde. While committing crimes and becoming a famous gangster, she displayed the fashion styles which were in vogue in the 1930s such as fancy and luxurious slim dress, tailored suit and trench coat. Third, in terms of Clyde's costume, from his first meeting with Bonnie to his first crime, he put on common costume (ex: pants, vest, shirts, etc.) which revealed his open and unconventional character. After he became a famous gangster, he would wear the Duke of Windsor style (jacket, vest and pants). The study results well describe movie costume's role as visual language which expresses characters' inner circumstances and outer situations that reflect socio-cultural background.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.1-14
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• 2020

Based on the trend of pluralization and globalization the collapse of national borders now is a manifestation of mixed and compromised cultures and societies. It is also emerging as a hybrid fashion in fashion. Hybrid fashion means creating a new image by mixing various cultures beyond the time and space. This study aims to analyze the current state of Chinese fashion design and present its direction by grasping the characteristics of hybrids in the works of rising Chinese fashion designers in the era of pluralization. The research method was literature review and empirical research. According to the selection criteria of new fashion designers, 6 new fashion designers of 5 fashion brands were selected and their total 458 points works were analyzed. The analysis results are as follows. First, most of the time trade-offs were 'past and present' trade-offs that express Chinese traditional culture and the image of the past with modern design. The trade-offs between 'present and future' is expressed by mixing print patterns, colors and light with fractal art. Second, spatial trade-offs was expressed in the way of expressing Chinese themes in the composition of western clothing, expressing the Western themes in oriental colors, and inspired by Japanese culture expressed by deconstructionism, Third, the gender mix mainly used dark embroidery on women's clothing, while the men's wear showed a delicate feminine charm with a surreal pattern on thin and transparent gauze fabric.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.4
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• pp.412-419
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• 2019

This study is to help maintain the identity of traditional Korean culture and develop fashion culture products by applying images and composition forms of traditional lattice patterns for vest designs. Lattice can be distinguished as a shape created through intersecting vertical and horizontal lines, in the form of oblique lines in vertical and horizontal structures, and in the form of an oblique line. Lattice patterns represent the overall unity and order as well as the beauty of small spaces created by simple lines. Traditional lattice patterns of the Joseon Dynasty were examined theoretically through the literature. Based on theoretical grounds, there is study illustrates vest designs using Adobe Illustrator CS6 as well as works on a 3D virtual costume using CLO Trial 4.2, a 3D virtual dressing system of CLO Virtual Fashion. This study developed an easy to wear vest design categorized as clothes for both men and women. The geometric formality of the lattice pattern has been applied to fashion culture products. In this study, the design was developed focusing on lattice, kotsal (flower pattern), sosulbitsal (diagonal), sotdaesal, tisal (horizontal & vertical). This study can be used as basic data in the domestic fashion cultural product market that can help maintain the originality of Korean culture in the global era that also assists in the successful promotion of Korean culture and traditions.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.26 no.4
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• pp.632-648
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• 2018

This study aims to contribute to the development of sports wearables. It was conducted by a convergence team of professionals in the fashion industry, kinesiology and sports studies, and computer science and engineering. The purpose of the current study was to design and develop a fabric-type fitness band for a sensor to measure acceleration during jump rope exercises. Computer science and engineering professionals developed the Arduino board and sensor, kinesiology and sports studies provided the necessary exercise protocol, and the fashion industry professionals developed the band. First, a fitness band preference survey was completed by men and women between the ages of 20 and 50. Typical uses of the band included tracking exercise amount as measured by the number of steps taken and calories burned. Strap watch closure, a single color and achromatic color, and soft and smooth touch materials were preferred as band design. Second, two fabric-type fitness bands were designed and developed. Design 1 had a 3-dimensional pocket for the sensor, bright blue color, and stretch binding around the edges and for a loop. Design 2 had a flat pocket for the sensor, achromatic color, mesh binding around the edges and two metal loops. Both designs had Velcro as a closure. Third, wear testing of both bands with the sensor were conducted of 15 women in their 20s. They wore the bands during jump rope exercises. Both bands generally satisfied the participants. The Design 2 band was slightly more satisfying than the Design 1 band.