• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.29 no.6
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• pp.350-362
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• 2017

The Eulerian nearshore current model is more advantageous than the Lagrangian model in the way that numerical results from the Eulerian model can be directly compared with the measurements by the stationary equipment. It is because the wave mass flux is not included in the computed mass flux of Euleran nearshore current model. In addition, the Eulerian model can simulate the longshore currents with depth varying parabolic profile. However, the numerical models proposed by different researcher have different forms of the wave stress terms. For example, wave stresses in Newberger and Allen's (2007) model is constant over the depth, while those of Chun (2012) are vertically distributed. In the present study, these wave stress terms were compared against Hamilton et al.'s (2001) laboratory experiments to see the effects of different wave stress terms performed on the computation of nearshore currents.

• Journal of the Korean earth science society
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• v.28 no.7
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• pp.914-924
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• 2007

This study is to compare differences in the depositional environments of natural beaches with those of beaches developed with artificial structures in the East Coast of Korea. Naksan-Osan beaches were selected for the examination of natural beaches and Anmok-Yumjun beaches for that of developed beaches. The study was performed on the foreshores and backshores of the selected beaches, and was based on the field research during the flood period of year 2004 and the dry period of year 2005. In Naksan-Osan beaches, pain size is fuel and sorting is better from northern coast to southern coast. Furthermore, sediment undergoes changes regularly and seasonal variations are small. But in Anmok-Yumjun beaches, grain size is coarser and sorting is worse than in Naksan-Osan beaches, showing irregular tendencies. The characteristic features of the two beaches would be effected by longshore currents which change along the type of coast line and have an effect on sediment. Especially, long shore currents interrupted by artificial structures in Anmok-Yumjun beaches may cause sedimental environment changes. In Anmok-Yumjun beaches, harbor expansions will be continued, and thus more changes are expected to occur in the beaches.

• Korean Journal of Fisheries and Aquatic Sciences
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• v.43 no.6
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• pp.723-734
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• 2010

To understand temporal variations in geochemical characteristics of intertidal surface sediments around Byeonsan Peninsula (in the middle of the western coast, Korea) after the construction of Saemanguem dyke, the sedimentation rate and various geochemical parameters, including mean grain size (Mz), water content (WC), ignition loss (IL), chemical oxygen demand (COD), and acid volatile sulfide (AVS), were measured along four transects (A.D lines) at monthly intervals from February 2008 to March 2009. The average monthly sedimentation rate ranged from -5.3 to 3.8 mm/month (mean $-0.8{\pm}2.7\;mm$/month), which showed an erosion-dominated environment in the lower part of the intertidal zone. In addition, surface sediments were eroded in summer and autumn, but were deposited in spring and winter. The Mz of surface sediments ranged from -0.8 to $3.4{\varnothing}$ (mean $2.8{\pm}0.5{\varnothing}$), indicating that the surface sediments consist of coarser sediments (sand and slightly gravelly sand). The Mz of surface sediments did not show large monthly and/or seasonal variations, although the sedimentation rates of surface sediment showed large seasonal variation. This may be due to lateral shifting and effective dispersion of surface sediments by wind, tide, and longshore current. The concentrations of IL and COD in the surface sediments ranged from 0.2 to 2.9% (mean $1.4{\pm}0.4%$) and from 0.2 to $18.5\;mgO_2$/g-dry (mean $3.9{\pm}3.4\;mgO_2$/g-dry), respectively, which were slightly higher in spring than in the other seasons. This may be related to spring blooms of phytoplankton in seawater and/or benthic microalgae in surface sediments. On the other hand, no AVS concentrations were detected in surface sediments at any of the sampling stations during the study period.

• 한국해양학회지
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• v.30 no.5
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• pp.480-492
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• 1995

Petrographic investigation has been carried out to determine the composition of the beach sediments and the affecting factors which have controlled their compositional variations from Hyupjae, Aeweol, Iho, Samyang, Hamdeok, Sehwa, Pyoseon, Jungmun, and Hwasun areas along the coast of the Cheju Island. Average mean sizes of the beach sediments are Hyupjae 2.2ø, Aeweol 0.8ø, Iho 1.4ø, Samyang 2.4ø, Hamdeok 1.6ø, Sehwa 1.5ø, Pyoseon 2.1ø, Jungmun 0.4ø, and Hwasun 0.9ø, thus, aries from 0.4 to 2.4ø. The beach sediments from Pyoseon and Hwasun areas are poorly sorted, those from Aeweol and Jungmun areas are moderately sorted and those from the rest of the areas are moderately well sorted. While-colored beach sediments in Hyupjae, Aeweol, Hamdeok, Sehwa, and Pyoseon areas are mostly composed of calcareous shells (more than 85%) such as mollusk, red algae, benthic foraminiferas, etc., whereas volcanic rock fragment is the dominant component of the black-colored beach sediments in Iho, Samyang, and Hwasun areas. Especially, the relatively white-colored beach sediment in Jungmun area, which is on e of the carbonate-dominant areas, shows a higher content of rock fragments than the other carbonate-dominant areas. The beach sediments in Pyoseon area show a high content of carbonate intercalates. Considering the contributions by organisms according to grain size, grains with the size range of 1∼2ø are mostly composed of calcareous red algae fragments, and grains with the size range of 2∼3ø consist of mollusk fragments. It is also notable that bryozoan fragments comprise about 48% of the sediment in Samyang area with the size range of 0∼1ø. The composition of the beach sediments in Cheju Island appears o be controlled by the riverine supply rate of volcanic rock fragments, the lithology of the rocks distributed ear the beaches, the direction of alongshore currents, and the direction of storms, etc.. It is suggested that the beach sediments in Iho and Samyang areas show black color because of the higher supply rate of the volcanic rock fragments from the nearby rivers, whereas those in the rest of the areas show white color due to the relatively lower content of volcanic rock fragments and higher content of carbonate components transported from shallow marine environment. In Hwasun area, the content of volcanic rock fragments is high, and they are directly from the tuffaceous rocks distributed nearby. Also, the volcanic rock fragments in Jungmun area are transported not only from the rivers nearby but also from the nearby tuffs by storm activities. The beach sediment in Pyoseon area contains a high content of carbonate intercalates, which formed in the nearby shallow marine environment through marine cementation. This indicates that active marine cementation occurs in shallow marine environment near Pyoseon area.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.26 no.3
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• pp.131-139
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• 2014

Infra-gravity waves (IGWs) with a period of 1~3 minutes are a factor that directly influences the motion analysis of moored ships inside a harbor and longshore sediment transport analysis. If significant levels of IGWs from far seas are transferred to a harbor and amplified, they may cause downtime of large ships and induce economic loss. In this study, transfer characteristics of the IGWs intruding from outside to inside Pohang New Harbor were analyzed using statistical analysis and transfer function of wave data measured at both outside and inside the harbor for around 5 years. Transfer characteristic analysis was limited to events where IGWs had wave heights above 0.1 m. The wave height distribution of inside the harbor was similar to that of outside the harbor, while the wave period variance of the former was larger than that of the latter. The parameters of the transfer function was optimally estimated according to each event. The estimated average RMS error of the wave height inside the harbor was around 0.013 m. The estimated parameters had a strong correlation with the linear combination information of IGW wave height, period, and direction (R = 0.95). The transfer function suggested in this study can quickly and easily estimate information on IGWs inside the harbor using IGW information predicted beforehand, and is expected to reduce damage due to unexpected restrictions on harbor usage.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.32 no.6
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• pp.384-395
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• 2020

Breaking waves generated by wave shoaling in coastal areas have a close relationship with various physical phenomena in coastal regions, such as sediment transport, longshore currents, and shock wave pressure. Therefore, it is crucial to accurately predict breaker index such as breaking wave height and breaking depth, when designing coastal structures. Numerous scientific efforts have been made in the past by many researchers to identify and predict the breaking phenomenon. Representative studies on wave breaking provide many empirical formulas for the prediction of breaking index, mainly through hydraulic model experiments. However, the existing empirical formulas for breaking index determine the coefficients of the assumed equation through statistical analysis of data under the assumption of a specific equation. In this paper, we applied a representative linear-based supervised machine learning algorithms that show high predictive performance in various research fields related to regression or classification problems. Based on the used machine learning methods, a model for prediction of the breaking index is developed from previously published experimental data on the breaking wave, and a new linear equation for prediction of breaker index is presented from the trained model. The newly proposed breaker index formula showed similar predictive performance compared to the existing empirical formula, although it was a simple linear equation.