• 복식
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• 제57권5호
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• pp.58-71
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• 2007

This study conducted a survey to find out atopic dermatitis patients' required performance and preference in design factors to develop spring/summer(S/S) knitwears preferred by atopic patients. On the platform of achieved information from statistical analysis, S/S knitwear samples for atopic patients were designed and constructed with cotton/Seacell(R) blended yarn, And subjective wearing sensation were evaluated comparing the samples and the commercial products made with cotton/chitosan blended yarn, trying to help producing more comfortable S/S knitwears for atopic patients. SPSS 12.0 program was used for frequency analysis, Chi-square analysis, ANOVA, and Duncan test. The result was as follows; For comfort of S/S knitwears, atopic patients most considered skin care property. Atopic patients preferred simple and basic knitwear in light color with thin and soft fabric such as plain knit. The preferred style was that 'appropriately fit with suitable ease'. They also preferred 'closed front'; 'boat neckline' and 'V neckline'; 'raglan sleeve' and 'set-in sleeve'. For hem trim, they preferred 'rib' structure. Male preferred simple and plain style with 'round collar' and 'tubular or rib trim", while female preferred sophisticated and characteristic style with 'set-in sleeve' with 'rib trim'. Under the circumstances with insufficient functional knitwears developed, this study tried to develop comfort S/S knitwears for atopic dermatitis patients and the developed knitwears showed as good as or better performance in wearing feeling, fitting, and appearance than the previously developed functional goods.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제3권
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• pp.51-87
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• 2003

This study aims primarily to discuss the question 'What does the red fashion boom in Korean society during the 2002 World Cup mean\ulcorner' For this question, it describes fashion phenomena and characteristics that appeared during the time. Specifically, in order to understand the concrete essence of the red fashion boom in terms of clothing and textiles, this study classifies and describes the red fashion boom as 'object, process and symbol' concepts. It investigates each case within the context of fashion. Outside that context, then, the implications of the red fashion boom are examined based on cultural studies and other sociocultural perspectives. This question is considered by focusing on social pressures as ideology, looking at the voluntary behaviour of Korean people in this context and examining several other factors. This is an investigation of the relationship between fashion, society and culture pursuing fashion theory by reviewing the relevant theoretical backgrounds afforded by the humanities and the social sciences. Based upon the above theoretical discussions, it synthesises what factors contributed to the Korean red fashion boom. Finally, this study briefly states their applicability to cultural marketing in its practical aspects. This study has attempted to throw some light on the question 'What does the red fashion boom in Korean society during the 2002 World Cup mean\ulcorner' The Korean Red Fashion Boom emerged from its interrelation with each context of the World Cup, as in the dualism of 'Janus'. That is, the World Cup functioned as the positive face of a festival that collected deep emotions and passion and contributed to the integration of society. Whereas its negative face, ideologically speaking, personified the invisible capitalistic product produced by the nation, enterprises and the mass media. And the implications of the red fashion boom can be interpreted with reference to the two faced World Cup.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제12권4호
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• pp.73-87
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• 2008

The main objective of this research was to investigate the characteristics of achromatic & chromatic color coordination of contemporary female fashion by reviewing 'pre-a-porter Collections' of four collections (i. e. cities) - Paris, Milan, New York, London - from the periods of 2002 S/S to 2006/7 A/W. The data was collected by reviewing 'pre-a-porter Collections' magazine and total 677 observations were made. Statistical analysis of frequency and also qualitative interpretation of achromatic & chromatic color coordination characteristics were completed. The main findings were; (1) The achromatic & chromatic color coordination was identified as one of most used color coordination in contmeporary women's fashion collections. (2) Black and white mainly used for achromatic color, and brown used the most often, then followed by blue, red, yellow, green and the others for chromatic color in achromatic & chromatic coordination of contmeporary women's fashion collections. (3) The characteristics of achromatic & chromatic color coordination of modern women's fashion collections from 2002 S/S to 2006/07 A/W showed various images according to chromatic colors and tone variation. The combination of achromaticand brown color variations produced an intelligent and sophisticated image. The soft or light chromatic color and chromatic color combination projected soft, feminine and subtle feeling, while the combination of vivid or strong chromatic color and achromatic color projected a clean and strong feeling through contrasting tones of clear and bright colors. The chromatic color of deep or dark tone and black combination demonstrated supernatural and gloomy image. (4)In all four collections, Paris showed most use of two color coordination and then followed by Milan, N.Y, and London. N.Y showed higher rate of using achromatic & chromatic color coordination, and then followed by Paris, London and Milan.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제11권1호
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• pp.15-25
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• 2007

As a part of the study for the materials development of compound feelings, therefore, this study investigated into the effects of the colors of warp and weft on the overall colors of fabrics, along with the visual changes of colors by the measuring angle of both warp and weft, by means of cross-dyeing of cotton/PET union fabrics. First, the dyeing of cotton and PET fabrics individually with the same color, the dyeing of PET fabrics followed by that of cotton fabrics resulted in a small difference in color than the dyeing in the reversed order. Second, in the case of the dyeing of cotton/PET union fabrics with the color of one fiber fixed and that of the other in ten colors, the color of cotton fiber, which is warp, gave much influence. In addition, the color change was remarkable among complementary colors, while it was negligible among adjacent colors. Third, in the case of dyeing of cotton/PET union fabrics with the color of one fiber fixed and that of the other in ten colors, the results were different by the measuring angle. When PET was fixed in green and cotton was dyed in ten colors, color-deepening was observed by the inclination in the direction of warp and weft without the dominance over all colors like cotton. When cotton was dyed in red and PET in ten colors, the color of PET appeared dimly in the horizontal case by the direction of the light, and red appeared as inclined in the direction of warp and weft. This is because of the dominance of cotton color over the overall color, since the density of cotton fiber, the warp of union fabrics, is higher than that of PET, the weft. Thus, this is to be considered in the selection of the warp's color. In view of the above results, the color changes are outstanding when the color of warp dominates the overall color and when the colors of warp and weft are complementary, in comparison with the case when the colors are adjacent. The colors also change by the measuring angle.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제12권5호
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• pp.737-746
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• 2003

This research was designed to investigate the preference for underwear and textiles of college students according to season. One hundred and nine subjects majoring in fashion design were surveyed about the most favorite materials among underwear textiles according to each season. The extent of preference was compared by season. The results of this study were as follows: 1. The most important purpose of wearing underwear was the hygienic performance in summer and the insulation in winter. 2. The most favorite textile of underwear was cotton regardless of season and the most favorite type of underwear was fashionable underwear in summer and insulating underwear in winter. 3. The most preferred material underwear was white jacquard knitted with cotton 30's yarn for summer and white and gray melange plain knit made with cotton and polyester blended 38's syro-spunned yarn for winter. 4. From the results about the factors influencing on the preference for the textiles of underwear, color, touch and cool sensation were the positive factor in summer, while insulation and pattern were comparatively affirmative factor in winter. 5. From the results about the sensibility factors influencing on the preference for the textiles of underwear, 'comfort', 'refined', 'naive' were the positive factor in summer, while 'comfort', 'naive', 'refined' were comparatively affirmative factor in winter. From the above results, hygienic and fashionable underwear is required in summer and thin and insulating underwear in winter for young people. Additionally, in textiles, cotton and cotton blended, comparatively light and simple patterned material is recommended for underwear.

• 한국가정과학회지
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• 제9권1호
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• pp.43-50
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• 2006

The main colorant of Chelidonium majus extracts is a berberine which shows relatively good dyeability onto silk fabrics in the appropriate dyeing conditions without mordant, But cotton fabrics are difficult to dye with berberine because of the low substantivity the cationic to cellulosic fibers. we treated cotton fabrics using three types of polycarboxylic acid, DL-malic acid, citric acid, 1,2,3,4-butanetetracarboxylic acid(BTCA) to increase dyeability of Chelidonium majus extracts onto cotton fabrics. As a result the cotton fabrics treated with polycarboxylic acid could be dyed with Chelidonium majus extracts and also showed yellow vividly. The dye uptake were increased with increasing the number of carboxy groups. And so dye uptake resulted the largest in the BTCA solutions which have four carboxylic groups in the molecular unit. The optimal dyeing temperature a of Chelidonium majus extracts onto polycarboxylic acid treated cotton fabrics were $60^{\circ}C$. The dye equilibrium was reached 20 minutes after dyeing. Neutral pH of dye solutions showed in higher K/S value than acidic or alkaline conditions. But the colorfastness to washing and light according to polycarboxylic acid treat was not enhance.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제18권4호
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• pp.65-73
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• 1980

The purpose of this study is ti find out a desirable way to stability and improvement of household economy by studying the changes of consumption level and consumption pattern of urban salary and wage earners' households during the years from 1970 to 1978. For this study, "Annual Report on the Family Income and Expenditure survey" (Published by the Bureau of Statistics, Economics Planning Board) has been used as basic material, and the methods of analysis used here are the time series analysis. We have gained the results as follows: 1) From 1970 to 198, the total income level increased at the rate of 416.2% in nominal price, but only 74.4% in reql price, while the total expenditure level showed 338.5% increase in nominal price, but its real increased proved only 418.2% in consideration of inflation. APC decreased from 95.1%(in 1970) to 80.7%(in 1978). 2) As for the expenditure pattern for the above mentioned nine years, the rate of food expenditure increased until 1975 under the price influence, but it trended to decease there after on . The rate of housing expenditure showed a gradual increase while that of fuel and light expenditure was on the decrease. The rate of clothing expenditure had been on the decease until 1974 but it began to increase gradually thereafter on. The trend of miscellaneous expenditures was irregularly up and down, educational expences being the first rank among them, Non-living expenditure had been constant until 1974 but it decreased a little after that. From the results it was found that the consumption level of the salary and wage earners' household in all cities from 1970 to 1978 was not practically improved because of rise in prices, nor was the Engel's coefficient and the rate of miscellaneous expenditure changed distinctively. However, as the successive decrease of APC suggests the possibility of economic development, we must try to put stress on economy in consumption and on encouraging. This will help run our household economy in safety and stability.

• 복식
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• 제50권4호
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• pp.181-195
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• 2000

This study was conducted from Sep., 1999. to Nov., 1999. It researched approximately 60 specialized manufacturers who had homepages on the Internet. Of the 60 manufacturers, 20 of them were chosen for the study all of whom had relatively were made homepages that were geared towards sales. 1. Daily Hanboks on the homepages were put in an electronic catalog. They were photographed and well described. Each picture could be enlarged when needed. 2. The Hanbok's were made for men, women and children. There were every couple's Hanboks. The Hanboks used natural material, mixed spinning and chemical textile, which was easily kept and washed. It was intended, as clothes for everyday wear Silk was used for formal clothes. 3. The prices ranged from low-middle to high clothing for everyday life is reasonable and street wear and formal dresses are priced high. The color of the dresses are not vibrant, but natural and light. As Hanboks become more in demand, there will be more choices available. 4. As matter of the sizes shows weakness. In general they use the western size system. The purpose of this study is to show the direction that Hanbok manufacturers may take for the internet sales and for being more active to promote the spread of the dress. This research came to the fellowing conclusion. Even though Hanbok manufacturers operate homepages. it seems that they are not well used. However, many internet shopping malls have been opened and they have put Daily Hanboks into one of their sales categories. The internet malls are getting more active and are expanding more. Therefore the market value of the Hanboks in the future look optimistic. If smaller sized manufacturers of Daily Hanbok's establish cooperative network that have no time and space limit, they can use the strong power of the market as the market development for Daily Hanboks is endless.

• 복식
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• 제61권9호
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• pp.84-96
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• 2011

This paper investigates the formative features and the historical meaning of the Korean dress collection held in the Museum of Archaeology and Anthropology in Cambridge. The Museum holds a total of eleven items of koran dresses that were donated by two anthropologists in the first half of the twentieth century. Male dresses consist of a white cotton jacket (Jeogori), a under-vest (Deungbaeja) made of light wisteria rings, a headband (Manggeon) made of horsehair, a broad brimmed top hat (Gat) made of black horsehair gauze, an oilskin cover (Galmo) drawn over the hat in wet weather, and a hemispherical hat box (Gatjib). Female dresses comprise a pink silk jacket (Jeogori), a blue silk skirt (Chima) with pleats, a pair of woman's white cotton trousers (Sokgot), a black silk cap (Jobawi) decorated with pink tassels and imitation pearls, and a pair of green and magenta silk shoes (Danghye) with leather soles and metal rivets. Theses Korean dresses show what the western anthropologists had interests in. When collectors collect the folk objects, they thought much of the specificity of shape and material, the esthetic appreciation, and the representation of daily life. In terms of the value as the historical materials in the history of Korean dress, the under-vest of wisteria, the hat box, and the female dresses are worth paying attention to. The under-vest is one that was produced in earlier time among the remaining under-vests. The hat box represents that the hat belonged to the merchant classes. The female dress items show daily dresses worn by women of higher classes of the society in the 1920s.

• 복식
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• 제63권2호
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• pp.82-97
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• 2013

The aim of this thesis is to investigate the change of men and women's costumes in late 18th century and early 19th century in view of its ideological streams by examining the portraits of the painter Jacques-Louis David. The method of investigation used was to select 29 pieces of portraits from 1766 to 1825, which showed the clear descriptions about the costumes and to analyze the costume's forms, ornaments and the headdress. The category was divided into 3 stages in terms of the changes in costume. The first stage, from 1766 until 1788, is the one of turnaround from the Rococo costume to the early neoclassical one. The typical Rococo costume was incrementally transformed into a simpler design without ornaments, and then natural silhouette in men and women's costumes started to appear from 1783 until 1788. This might be attributed to the neoclassical trend which was affected by the enlightenment ideology. The second stage, from 1788 until 1795, is the period of change from the costume of the early neoclassic style to the typical neoclassic style and also the time from the 1793 to 1795 was regarded as the peak of neoclassic style when the effect of enlightenment began to decrease while one of neoclassicism exerted its strong influence on the costume. The third stage, from 1795 until 1825, similar to the previous neoclassical style was also notable in its turning into producing the empire dress of Empire style. From 1820 on, it was a period that showed signs of influence from romanticism while the effect of neoclassicism started to become more diminished.