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The Effects of Kisaeng's Clothes on General Women's Fashion in the Late Choson Dynasty (조선후기 기여복식이 일반부녀자 복식에 미친 영향)

  • 김나형;김용서
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.39
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    • pp.113-123
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    • 1998
  • This study focuses on the effects of the clothes worn by kisaeng; courtesans trained in singing and dancing, on changes in female psychology as reflected in general women's fashions during the later years of the Chosun dynasty. During this period, the social order had broken down considerable, due in part to the introduction of Roman Catholicism, and in part to the actions of Sil-hak, who emphasized open-ness and practicality in the organization of social affairs. This freer social environment disrup-ted the established social hierarchies. The kisaeng were among the first to respond to the new social mores by adopting more colorful, sensual, and individualized fashions. Their social position allowed them to reflect the new aesthetics of the time right away. Those aesthetics seemed to lay great emphasis on the artistic effects of contrast. The kisaeng would adorn their heads with large Kache (an elaborate wig or hairdo typically reserved for use by women in full formal dress). In contrast to this conspicuous hairstyle, they typically wore very tight-fitting Jogori (short-cropped Korean traditional jackets for women) around their upper torsos. The long skirts emerging from beneath these short jackets would typically flare out dramatically, with the aid of petticoats. However, these skirts would be bound at the waist with a sash, increasing the sexual suggestiveness of the clothing by drawing at-tention to the hips, and by exposing the bottom frills of the petticoats, or the wide pantal-oons and other undergarments the kisaeng wore to add volume to their skirts. The relative freedom enjoyed by the kisaeng to experiment with new fashions was not widely shared by most women. This generated envy from women of the noble classes, who were more bound by convention, and restrained from adopting such a mode of dress. It also generated envy from women of the humble classes, who saw the kisaeng as working little for their wealth, and yet dressing every day in finery that the average women would only ever be able to afford on her wedding day. This envy directed at the relative freedom/wealth of the kisaeng by women who faced greater socioeconomic constraints was given cultural expression through the adoption of elements of the kisaeng's fashion in the fashions of both noblewomen and humble women in old korea. The luxurious Kache sported by the kisaeng had in fact been borrowed from the habitual attire of upper-class women. So to distinguish themeselves from the kisaeng, they began to abandon these elaborate hairstyles in favor of traditional ceremonial hoods (Nel-ul-a thin black women's hood) and coronets (Suegaechima). This supposed reaction to the abuse of the Kache by the kisaeng still remained influenced by the kisaeng still remained influence by the kisaeng, however, as these headdresses became adorned with many more jewels and decorations, in imitation of the kisaeng's adaptations of the coronet. At the same time, noblewomen began sporting the Jangwue ; a headdress previously worn only by kisaeng and lower class women, and lower class women were then permitted to wear the Kache at weddings. All women behan to wear shorter, tighter Jogori jackets, and to add volume to their skirts. They also attached frills to their under-garments in imitation of the kisaeng's exposed petticoats and pantaloons. The impact of kisaeng fashions was thus deep and widespread, and can be understood as an expression of women's longing for freedom from socioeconomic constraints in the late Chosun dynasty. This study adopts an interdisciplinary ap-proach to the understanding of historical changes in women's fashions. Such interdisciplinary work can greatly enrich the study of fashion, often narrowly focused on clothing morphology and broad generalizations about society. For this reason, specific dynamics of feminine psychology in the late Chosun dynasty were elaborated in this study, to provide a deeper under-standing of the changes in fashion underpinned by them. If more such detailed analyses are undertaken, a whole new understanding of changes in fashion can be generated, and perhaps a transformation of the field of fashion history can be ultimately achieved.

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The Research Trend and Narrative Expandability of Borderlands Studies in Europe and North America -A Review Article: Globalizing Borderlands Studies in Europe and North America (유럽과 북미에서의 접경지대 연구 동향과 서사의 확장성 -『유럽과 북미 지역 접경지대 연구의 세계화』 읽기)

  • Ban, Kee-Hyun
    • Journal of Popular Narrative
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    • v.26 no.2
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    • pp.251-276
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    • 2020
  • The purpose of this article is to critically read Globalizing Borderlands Studies in Europe and North America to examine trends in border studies conducted so far in Europe and North America and to discuss the expandability and limitations of the narrative. It introduces a variety of case studies covering the borderlands of Europe and North America from ancient to modern times. It consists of a total of 10 chapters, in addition to the introduction chapter to clarify the purpose and definition of the collaboration and the short conclusion chapter on the prospects for the future of borderlands studies. This volume has some important implications for current borderland research in two main respects. First, it can introduce us we the areas and targets that the leading researchers from European and North American academia (usually the United States') have paid attention to. It also examines the current status of borderland research and predicts whether it will be possible to study various border areas where exist in other regions (especially in Asia) based on accumulating academic achievements, as well as the possibility of expansion of so-called 'globalization'. Second, it introduces the borderland as a conceptual space, beyond the border area as a physical space that is commonly thought of when it comes to 'border'. Cases of "conceptual borderlands" can be applied to a number of topics ranging from an individual's identities to the methods of governance, religions, economies, social institutions, families, labor issues, public health services and gender issues. There are, however, also some questions to be noted in the volume: the lack of consistent use of terminology, which can be considered general problems of collaboration studies; the fact that the authors still tend to understand borderlands within the imperialist discourse, perhaps because of their academic background is situated mainly in Europe and North America; the borderlands cases described here as the areas of conflict and struggle only. Nevertheless, the book is of significance in that it suggests a possibility of various borderlands studies and helps us to have better understanding of the current geopolitical situation imposed on the Korean Peninsula, which is located on the borderland between the continental and maritime powers.

The Practice of 'Liberated-ness': An Education Model for Protestant Spiritual Practice (개신교 '자유케 됨'의 영성에 기초한 기독교 영성교육 모형: '자유케 됨'의 실천)

  • Hwang, In-Hae
    • Journal of Christian Education in Korea
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    • v.68
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    • pp.375-415
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    • 2021
  • Although the interest in Christian education of spirituality has increased recently, the practice of the education of spirituality in the Korean Church has been fragmented in the contents and methods without any clear educational purpose of the Protestant tradition. This requires a creative study to seek out the contents and method best suited to realizing the educational purpose of the Protestant tradition, through a rigorous academic methodology. This study proposes just such a creative model for the education of spirituality with an educational purpose based on the core ethos of the Protestant spirituality, integrating the long tradition of spiritual practices of Christianity. First, I survey the teachings on 'the life of faith' of the main leaders of the Protestant church, including Martin Luther, John Calvin, and John Wesley. Through this process, I reveal 'liberated-ness' to be the common purpose of the Protestant leaders, and the core of the practices for that purpose are 'the means of grace,' which has a different meaning from that of the Roman Catholic tradition. I construct the meaning of 'liberated-ness' in a dynamic manner, which begins with the 'liberating will' of God, and is followed by the 'self-giving will' of the believer as the response to the 'grace' of the 'liberating will.' The contact point of these two 'wills' is what I call 'the living membrane of faith.' As a creative synthesis of the above discussions, I propose a model of 'the practice of liberated-ness' for an education in spiritual practice. The purpose of this education is for the learner to become a person who continuously experiences ever-increasing 'liberated-ness' through continuous personal 'encounters' with God, and to become ever more faithful in carrying out practices for the 'liberated-ness' of her or his neighbors. The relationship between the teacher and the learner is that of personal 'encounter' as put forth by Sherrill, and also incorporates elements of 'co-authorship' as conceptualized by Kim. I transform and rename major practices of spiritual discipline according to a principle of 'liberated-ness' based on the Protestant tradition, and these comprise the main content of my spirituality education model. They include: 'lectio divina of encounter,' 'prayer facing the Lord,' 'service in liberation,' 'reflection of liberated-ness,' and 'mutual spiritual direction.' The teaching and learning process draws on Dykstra's methods of coaching and mentoring. The key environment is that of a 'sacramental community' as defined by Moore. Evaluation can be performed only by the learner her/himself. The significance of this model is that it creatively inherits and succeeds the tradition of Christian spiritual discipline from the early church onwards by transforming it through a Protestant spirituality of 'liberated-ness.'

Analysis of Experimental Researches in Korea on the Effects of Aromatherapy to Relieve Pain (아로마테라피의 통증 감소 효과에 관한 국내 실험논문 분석)

  • Park, Jeong-Sook;Park, Jeong-Eon;Yang, Jang-Soon;Kwak, Hye-Weon;Han, Jung-An
    • Journal of Hospice and Palliative Care
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    • v.14 no.1
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    • pp.8-19
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    • 2011
  • Purpose: This study identifies research trends and provides fundamental data related to curative power of aromatherapy to relieve pain in Korea. Methods: The study analyzed 44 experimental studies on humans that were published in Korea before the end of December, 2009. The key words used for searching were: aroma, aromatherapy, hyang-yobeob, hyanggi-yobeob, hyanggichilyo, aromatherapy and pain, headache, scapulodynia, omodynia, feeling uncomfortable in the perineal region, sense of pain, labor pains, arm pain, menstrual pain, aches, and dysmenorrheal. Those words were found on websites, including those for Korea Education & Research Information Service, the National Assembly Library, KISS, KoreaMed, and NDSL. Collected data were analyzed using descriptive statistics. Results: The results showed that most of essential oils to relieve pain is composed of three to four kinds of oils, including Lavender, Roman chamomile, Rosemary, and Clarysage. Aromatherapy is applied usually by means of massage (50%), inhalation (13.6%), or a combination of the above two (13.6%). Measuring instruments as a dependent variable include VAS, questionnaire, GRS, blood pressure, pulse, and Algometer. Aromatherapy plays an important role in soothing headaches and arthralgia. However, when it comes to labor and menstrual pain, it doesn't seem to be effective. Conclusion: The study found that different kinds of oil, frequencies, and periods of time are used for the same symptoms. Further research should employ standardized oil blending, application, duration, and measuring instruments, and more systematically analyze the effects of aromatherapy to establish the effects on relieving pain.

Effect of a Combined Treatment with Uniconazole, Silver Thiosulfate on Reduction of Ozone Injury in Tomato Plant (Uniconazole 과 Silver Thiosulfate 의 복합처리가 토마토의 오존피해경감에 미치는 효과)

  • Ku, Ja-Hyeong;Won, Dong-Chan;Kim, Tae-Il;Krizek, Donld T.;Mirecki, Roman M.
    • Korean Journal of Environmental Agriculture
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    • v.11 no.1
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    • pp.50-58
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    • 1992
  • Studies were conducted to determine the combined effect of uniconazole [(E) -1-(4-chlorophenyl)-4, 4-demethyl 2-(1,2,4 triazol-1-yl)-1-penten-3-ol] and silver thiosulfate $[Ag {(S_2O_3)}^3\;_2-]$ (STS) on reduction of ozone injury in tomato plants(Lycopersicon esculentum Mill. 'Pink Glory'). Plants were given a 50ml soil drench of uniconazole at concentrations of 0, 0.001, 0.01 and 0.1 mg/pot at the stage of emerging 4th leaf. Two days prior to ozone fumigation, STS solution contained 0.05% Tween-20 was also sprayed at concentrations of 0, 0.3 and 0.6 mM. Uniconazole at 0.01 mg/pot and STS at 0.6 mM were effective in providing protection against ozone exposure(20h at 0.2ppm) without severe retardation of plant height and chemical phytotoxicity, respectively. Combined treatment with uniconazole, STS significantly reduced ozone injury at the lower concentration than a single treatment with uniconazole or STS. Uniconazole treatment reduced plant height, stem elongation and transpiration rate on a whole plant level and increased chlorophyll concentration. STS did not give any effect on plant growth and chlorophyll content but increased transpiration rate in non-ozone-fumigated plants. Ethylene production in the leaves of ozone-fumigated plants was decreased by uniconazole and STS pretreatment, but there was no protective effect on epinasty of leaves in uniconazole-treated plants. STS increased ethylene production in non-ozone-fumigated plants, but it significantly reduced the degree of epinasty and defoliation of cotyledons when plants were exposed to ozone. Uniconazole slightly increased superoxide dismutase and peroxidase activities. But STS showed little or no effects on such free radical scavengers. Day of flowering after seeding was shortened and percentages of fruit set were increased by uniconazole treatment. STS was highly effective on protecting reduction of fruit set resulting from ozone fumigation. These results suggest that combined use of uniconazole and STS should provide miximum protection against ozone injury without growth retardation resulting in yield loss.

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Characteristics of Mise en abyme expression in Modern architectural space - Focusing on the construction work of Jean Nouvel - (현대 건축 공간에서 나타난 미장아빔적 표현 특성 - 장누벨의 건축 작품을 중심으로 -)

  • Yoon, Deuk Geun;Kim, Kai Chun
    • Korea Science and Art Forum
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    • v.20
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    • pp.315-326
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    • 2015
  • This study has started from a curiosity about how the concept and characteristics of mise en abyme, which is one of meta-discourse in the contemporary aesthetics and has affected every aspect of modern philosophy, art, and culture, are expressed in modern architecture. 'Mise en abyme' is a technique mainly used by writers of the nouveau roman after it was introduced first in the work of novelist Andre Gide; this technique of artistic expression has been extended across the whole contemporary art and has become the meta-discourse which essentially makes its appearance in the art after postmodernism. 'Mise en abyme', meaning endless formation of image between two mirrors, got involved with discourse of the various philosophers of the time such as Deleuze and Derrida, and was also expressed in the language of architecture by modern architects who have been influenced by their philosophy. In this context, the technique of mise en abyme which is mostly used in art has a relation to methods of space expression of architects. This research studied the characteristics of mise en abyme which show in the expressional method of the modern architecture based on the relationship between the technique of mise en abyme and the modern method of architectural expression. Moreover, on the basis of this an analysis was carried out on architectural works of Jean Nouvel, who uses de-materialization and singularity as the architectural language. Through the research it was confirmed that the characteristics of expression of mise en abyme in architecture are embodied in material of the surface which forms buildings' exterior, or expressed by using reflection and graphical factors. Through analysis this study allows the chance to see that even though the means and field for expressing mise en abyme are different, the characteristics of the fundamental concept are shared among them, and to think about the meaning in the technique of mise en abyme as one yardstick to understand modern architecture in modern times with no specific mainstream.

A Study on the Florence Renaissance and the Medici's Libraries (피렌체 르네상스와 메디치가 도서관 연구)

  • Yoon, Hee-Yoon
    • Journal of Korean Library and Information Science Society
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    • v.53 no.3
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    • pp.73-94
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    • 2022
  • Florence is the cradle of the Italian Renaissance. It is the result of a combination of medieval humanists' exploration of ancient Greek and Roman knowledge and culture, the leadership of great monarchs and priests, patronage of the Medici family, etc., free-thinking and creativity of artists, and critical consciousness and cultural needs of citizens. However, the Florentine Renaissance could not have blossomed unless the Medici family had collected ancient manuscripts and translations, and built libraries to preserve and provide literature. Based on this logical basis, this study outlined the Florentine renaissance and historic libraries, analyzed the collection and composition of favorite books of the Medici family, and traced the architectural characteristics and metaphors of the Medici libraries, The San Marco Library (Michelozzo Library), Library of Badia Fiesolana, and the San Lorenzo Library (Laurentian Library) were the priming and birthplace of the Florentine Renaissance despite of many difficulties, including earthquake, fire, restoration, transfer, seizure, and closure. In particular, the San Marco Library, which was opened in 1444 based on the financial support of Cosimo de' Medici, Michelozzo's design, and Niccoli's private collections was the first common library in the Renaissance period. And the architectural highlight of the Laurentian Library, which opened in 1571 under the leadership of Giulio (Papa Clemente VII), is Michelangelo's staircase, which symbolizes 'from ignorance to wisdom', and the real value of the content is the ancient manuscripts and early printed books, which were collected by the humanist Niccoli and the Medici family. In short, when discussing the Florentine Renaissance, Medici's collection and historic libraries are very important points. The reason is that the ancient collections were not stuffed products, but syntactic semiotics, and the libraries are telescopes that view the history of human knowledge and culture and microscopes that create knowledge and wisdom. If records dominate memories, libraries accumulate records. Therefore, long breathing and time capsule strategies are also required for the development and preservation of retroactive books in domestic libraries with a relatively long history.