• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.32 no.12
• /
• pp.1971-1980
• /
• 2008

The purpose of this study is to explore the meaning and depth of traditional knitwears, and to develop knitwear designs by using Aran motif, one of major motifs of traditional knitwears and on the basis of the 'continuance' theory of Henri Bergson and Jill Deleuze. Connectivity, the sense of space and deconstructive fluidity-basic concepts of the continuance theory-are felt in such forms as pleats, origami, and air pumping systems, blob and twisting used in the modem fashion. The motif of Aran knitwear which has a long historical tradition can be reinterpreted in terms of those concepts of the continuance theory. In this study, we designed five pieces of knitwear while applying cable motif, an important motif of Aran knitwear, and the concepts of the continuance theory to them. This study will make a contribution to the designing of knit wears through reinterpretation of a traditional motif in terms of a modem philosophical thought.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.54 no.4
• /
• pp.41-53
• /
• 2004

The significant role of colors in fashion design is not enough to emphasize in terms of one of the important design elements and its influences on the behaviors of the people. The purpose of this research is to examine the traditional Chinese colors and its ways of color combinations to appreciate the Chinese culture and its people. The Chinese traditional costume of Ching Dynasty were investigated through historic records, historic nobles, costume accessories and so on. The results of the study were summarized as follows： (1) The Blue was the most favoured color for clothing among men and women during Ching dynasty and various blues in terms of hue, value and intensities were used. (2) The bright Yellow which had been a symbol of Emperor were prohibited being used among people. Though, the late period of Dynasty, the regulation became not to strict and various shades of yellow families were adapted among People. (3) The Red which had been preferred during Ming Dynasty were constantly favoured for the formal wears of auspicious events such as weddings. (4) Dark color groups were loved for the clothing which were used as a ground colors against the flamboyant patterns revealing strong visual effects through value contrast or primary color combinations. (5) The White had a symbol of mourning and there were some intentions to adopt pale color groups such as mint, jade, gray, moon whit,. silver white to make up for white. (6) Contrast color combinations were one of the basic ways of color combination in Chinese traditional costume. Therefore Chinese color combinations has a strong visual effect and easy to draw attention of people by the contrast of the hue, value or intensity of color. (7) Multi-color combinations were another characteristics of Chinese costume in the formal wears which bears many surface designs. The surface decorated with full of motifs, were appreciated by the people expressing their longings and hopes through the auspicious meanings of patterns and striking visual effects of color combinations.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.37 no.5
• /
• pp.691-703
• /
• 2013

The costume culture of ladies in late Goryeo is an important and rare source for cultural fashion souvenir design. This study investigates the historical costume design sources of late Goryeo to suggest high quality traditional and practical ornament souvenir designs for female dolls as well as examples of coordination with doll costumes. The costume culture of late Goryeo contained golden Buddhism and a revival of $12^{th}$ century Goryeo costume characteristic after the period of Mongolian influences from the Yuan. The main sources for doll ornament designs are $14^{th}$ century Buddhist paintings, a few ornament relics of Goryeo, ancient literature, and portraits of ladies in the $14^{th}$ century that originated from five doll's traditional ornaments (lotus hairpin, cloud-shaped hairpin, Buddhist flower hair ornament, vase-shaped Binyeo, and bell of animalhuman face) and three wig designs (wigs from Buddhist paintings and portraits, and hairpiece) with bleached gilding silver, silk, various gemstones and synthetic hair. These doll ornament and wig designs imply the symbol of Buddhism, exorcism, and costume culture of $14^{th}$ century Goryeo ladies that can be matched with two doll gowns, half-sleeved jacket, skirt, two Jogoris, apron, under trousers as formal, semi-formal, and town-wear according to the T.P.O of late Goryeo; in addition, five ornaments can be used as owner's ornaments. The partial changing colors and materials due to the characteristics of doll ornament goods as well as better communication between researcher and constructor remain to be improved.

• Journal of the Korean Institute of Traditional Landscape Architecture
• /
• v.37 no.3
• /
• pp.37-48
• /
• 2019

This study, which starting from Yangyang Jukdo's topography formation and questioning revealed in landscape guide and landscape commentary board, is to sort out the characteristics of Jukdo natural landscape through literature research, field observation research and stakeholder interview as part of the proper recognition of Jokdo landscape and search for landscape resources, and pursued a review of nominations and criticism. The results of this study are summarized as follows. Yangyang Jukdo is an island named because it was full of blue bamboo. From before the first half of the 14th Century. to the middle of the 18th Century., there was a Gwanlan-pavilion to see the sea and the bamboo in the west. The time when the original island, the Jukdo, have been a land-tied island connected with the land by the tombolo formed by the erosion of the sand. It is located at the end of the 14th Century. and before the middle of the 18th Century. In Jukdo, colorful weathered terrains, coastal terrain, and structural terrain formed by long-time weathering are found. Among them, the type of weathering, the tafoni style and the gnamma style are the scenic landscapes with the key stories of legend and poetry that are brought to Jukdo. In addition, there are seven kinds of letters caved in the rocks in Jukdo. The rocks found on the coast, basketball cannons, shrines, and sutras are seen as shrouds based on a Taoist hermit motifs and style. In addition, it can be interred from the photography of "jeongssisejeog" that the souvenir of Jukdo was the family of Chogyejeong of mid 18th Century. In terms of observational geography and poetry, Jukdo has been handed down a great deal of missionary color with key motifs such as 'Jukdo-seongoo', 'Jukdo-Dolgooyoo', or 'Stone mortar of Taoist hermit' It is proved that the pearl which is called 'The stone of the Taoist hermit' is a porthole formed in a separate space rather than the topography of the geomorphology in terms of shape, size and function. Currently named Shun-tang is a product of the ridiculous 'naming' of interest. The present landscape guide and commentary is not only incompatible with the place of Jukdo, but also does not match the traditional cultural landscape. Future scenery information such as guide signs and commentary boards should be improved in the direction of positively highlighting the stories and motifs related to the present that are present in order to enhance the landscape identity of Yangyang Jukdo.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.24 no.1
• /
• pp.1-14
• /
• 2022

K-pop stars are an important influence in the era of digital culture based on emotions. The purpose of this study is to visually express the identity and worldview of their music in the virtual and real world, and to promote Korea's current and past culture. The study also intends to appeal to the emotions of the global fans by designing original textile in their music video 'IDOL' on Tiny TAN - a symbol of world pop star BTS. For design development, traditional Korean images shown in the 'IDOL' video were collected, patterns for each member were selected, and a motif was designed on Adobe Illustrator. We selected the dragon as the motif for V, cloud for Suga, chrysanthemums for Jin, mask for Jung Kook, hanok pavilion for RM, fan for Jimin, and Sam Taegeuk for J-Hope. The selected motifs were designed as per the four textile design arrangement methods: square pattern, 1/2 half drop pattern, turn-around pattern, and panel pattern. The design was presented by mapping Kwaeja to Tiny TAN character. The developed textile design can be used not only for character costumes in virtual space, but also for various products such as clothes, accessories, bedding, cosmetics, stationery, and food. By using it to produce goods inspired by K-pop stars, it can be used as basic data for the development of high value-added competitive products in the global market and create synergy effects of K-Design, which would lead a new trend in the design world.

• Human Ecology Research
• /
• v.53 no.1
• /
• pp.81-92
• /
• 2015

Daily dance Ganggangsullae is recommended for youth to help their diet, improve their team life and know Korean culture. Its performance costumes were fusion hanbok and casual wear shown at the Second Daily Dance Ganggangsullae Contest Conference of Myeongryang Battle Festival in 2013. A fusion hanbok shows the Korean traditional spirit, but it is not practical. Casual wear is practical, but it does not show any Korean identity. Therefore, their combination is needed to reflect the Korean identity and practicality. For this, a literature review and an online search were conducted for the history, purpose and dance motion of daily dance Ganggangsullae. And photographs of participating teams were gathered from Jeonnam Information & Culture Industry Promotion Agency. Goguryeo costumes were used for design motifs. Four designs were sets of T-shirts and pants for the summer. Style 1 is designed using sam, jikryeong, go, round and triangle pattern with rippled cotton. Colors were from Wang Huiji's mural painting. Style 2 is designed using dansuui, beonryeong, go, round and quadrangle patterns with rippled cotton. Colors were from a Deokheungri mural painting. Style 3 is designed using sam, round ryeong, go, quadrangle patterns, prints with cotton jersey and denim. Colors were from a Gamsinchong mural painting. Style 4 is designed using dansuui, jikryeong, go, a flame pattern, a bow and arrow shape with cotton, knit and jersey. Colors were from a Muyongchong mural painting. This study is helpful to anyone who wants to develop Korean-style performance costumes.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.14 no.3
• /
• pp.195-204
• /
• 2012

Since WWII and the Korean War, Korean modern fashion has been americanized by claiming, displacing with, and fusing with the traits of American fashion. The purpose of this study is to observe and analyze the traits of Americanization in Korean fashion, focusing on the designs of Nora Noh fashion from the 1950s to the 1980s. Nora Noh (1928- ), one of the first Korean fashion designers, who launched the first fashion show in 1956, introduced ready-made dresses to Korean fashion industry in 1963 for the first time, and later in the 1970s and the 1980s, exported Korean-made fashions to the U.S. market. For such purpose, this study first provides the theoretical backgrounds of Americanization in Korean fashion history and then conducts a case study by analyzing photographic materials. In case of Nora Noh fashion, the traits of Americanization can be defined as functionality, popularity, and hybrid. (1)Functionality in Americanized Korean fashion was expressed through simplicity, practicality, and usefulness. Noh's "homewear" style and exported silk dresses are the examples of the functionality. (2)Popularity was shown in kitsch images of materialistic and consumer culture. It was expressed in ready-made dresses and trendy styles of mini skrits and bell-bottom pants. (3)Hybrids of various multi-culture exist in American culture and fashion. In Noh's designs, traditional materials and the print patterns inspired from traditional motifs were used to add Korean nuances in Americanized fashion.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.24 no.5
• /
• pp.21-34
• /
• 2020

The purpose of this study was to develop a new Korean fashion design using forced-relationship techniques and the traditional hanbok Korean dress and Korean traditional images as the source of the ideas. The research methods consisted of literature research and design production. In the literature research for the hanbok composition and design elements, the concept and type of forced-relationship techniques were studied. The design development process was as follows. First, 'Developing a Korean fashion design' was set as the design theme. Second, the composition and design elements of hanbok and Korean motifs, which consist of Korean images were set as fixed elements of the forced-relationship technique. Third, among the various trends in keywords, 'punk' belonging to a subculture, was set as an arbitrary element of the forced-relationship technique. Fourth, the punk fashion design elements and items were listed. Fifth, a rough sketch was performed by selectively combining fixed and arbitrary elements. Sixth, a design evaluation process was conducted to select the designs out of 52 design sketches that fit the purpose of the study. Seventh, a total of six designs were selected after making design modifications. Through this, a total of six works of women's clothing was designed, made, and presented. This study offers the possibility of developing new Korean fashion design images, and a chance to share designs based on different cultural elements in the global market.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
• /
• v.41 no.8
• /
• pp.33-53
• /
• 2003

A Study on the color comparison of Korean Saek-dong and Italian futurist fashion It is generally recognized that the color scheme and its characteristics as a product of living culture are strongly reflected in clothing. This study concentrates on the color comparison of Korean Saek-dong which has been used in traditional Korean clothing and Italian futurist fashion which showed dynamic characteristics and brilliant colors. The purpose of this study is to investigate the external format, emotions, functions and meanings of the colors in Korean Saek-dong and Futurist fashion, and to find similarities and differences between them. The results of the study are as follows. The similarities between them are harmony of vivid colors like a rainbow, no-use of black color and expression of rhythm through repeated geometrical shapes. They have been used as festive costumes and have implied meaning of happiness and pleasure. The differences, in the external formats, are as follows. Korean Saek-dong has striped patterns including the color white, and has regular distances among the stripes. But, Futurist fashion includes luminous or fluorescent colors and metallic colors. In addition, it has repeated motifs of geometrical shapes and geometrically divided areas. While Saek-dong expresses Sangsaeng through the conceptual use of color, Futurist fashion shows simultaneity, speed and dynamics through spiritual functions of crossing and inter-penetration. In emotional aspect, Saek-dong expresses pleasure of children's mind and Futurist fashion expresses pleasure of city. In functional aspect, Saek-dons expresses a concept of ceremonial beauty, which is spiritual and symbolizes good auspices, holiness and sorcery. So it is used for ceremonial costume. But, Futurist fashion reflects the harmony of colors created from modem and urban images and shows the willingness and emotion of solving futuristic avant-garde, modernity, dynamics, transformation and bellicosity. So it is used for daywear. While Saek-dong represents succession of tradition, Futurist fashion represents resistance of tradition in cultural aspects.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.26 no.5
• /
• pp.675-683
• /
• 2002

The purposes of the study were to analyze the changes in formal attires and decorative features of middle age Korean women during the last half of 20th century and to find out any significant differences in formal attires according to periods. The study was a documentary research, and data were collected from 344 family wedding photographs by convenient sampling. The statistics used were content analysis, frequency and a time series analysis, and the results were as follows : 1. Four schematic clusters of formal attires were categorized according to skirt(chima) length and width, jacket(jogori) length, motifs and decorative features; simple classic, decorative classic, fashionable, and extravagant fashionable. Simple classic attires were popular until 1960s, the decorative classics were appeared from late 1960s to 1970s, fashionable attires were introduced from the late 1970s and the attires became more luxurious and extravagant until 2000. 2. Color symbolism in couples mothers'attires according to the couples gender - pink or red for the bride's mother and blue or green for groom's mother - was introduced from the late 1970s, and reached the maximum level by the early 1980s but slowly disappeared after the late 1980s. 3. The complete fashion cycle did not exist in the formal attires'change, however, since the Period of data were ranged from 1943 to 2000, the 57 years period may not long enough to measure a complete fashion cycle.