• Journal of the Korean Institute of Landscape Architecture
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.1-14
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• 1998

The purpose of this study is to find out how the urban landscape of Korea, especially Seoul, changed during the last half century since 1945. The modernization of Korea, which had begun in 1960's after the chaotic period caused by Korean War, influenced the rapid growth of cities and the radical changes of its structures. But the Western-minded planning theories based on rationalism and positivism was directly applied in developing our traditional cities and consequently the modern urban landscape including urban pattern, architectural style, and commercial and residential landscape revealed disharmony, discrepancy and inconsistency in skylines, streetscape and so on. The findings are summarized as follows. 1. Because the urban structure and pattern changed in undesirable manner in terms of land use and traffic circulation, cities as a whole resulted in exclusive and heterogeneous landscape, and citizens lost their identity and felt alienated. 2. Because the architectural forms of important and monumental buildings which influenced the character of streetscape were not so successful in inventing contemporary Korean Style in true sense, we still have difficulty in creating the urban landscape of originality and legibility. 3. Because from the beginning of this era almost all highrise buildings were designed by modernism-oriented western architects, the commercial landscape of central cities did not evoke a sense of place, and after the introduction of postmodernism this tendency is ore striking even in everyday ordinary streetscape. 4. The newly formed residential landscape which was mainly composed of highly dense and highrise apartment, not only evolved very overwhelming and ugly visual impact but also exposed many social problems in living condition, neighboring and face-to-face contact. In conclusion, in ordr to define the 'Koreanness' of our urban landscape, we have to struggle to combine traditional architectural heritage and native townscape with Western shape, thought and theory, no matter how difficult it may be.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.8
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• pp.95-109
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• 2015

The purpose of this Study is to understand Supsin (shoes for dead) in late Chosun dynasty through records and excavated relics. The research records in this study were two types which one was official records as The Annals of The Chosean Dynasty(朝鮮王朝實錄), Dairy of the Royal Secretariat(承政院日記) ets and the other was private records as Korean literary collections of confucian scholars in classical chinese(文集) ect. as for relics use two types of materials that one is the excavated supsins and the other is Research Reports of Excavated Costumes published from museums. Through the Collections, we can notice that shoes were several types which Wunhae(雲鞋), Danghae(唐鞋) Onhae(溫鞋) Wunli(雲履), Taesahae(太史鞋) in Chosun dynasty. these were worn in different ways according to wearer's gender, the social status, daily life or rituals, inside or outside in palace. Wunhae and Wunli was the most ceremonial shoes for man and Onhae was the most ceremonial shoes for woman. the dead man worn the Wunhae or Wunli for Supsin and the dead woman worn Onhae. we could see they use the most ceremonial shoes for supsin. through the records, we could see the change that Women's Supsin was written for the first time in 18th Saraepyenram(四禮便覽). men's Supsin was recorded as '履', while Women's Supsin was recorded as '鞋' in Saraepyenram. the reason for making difference between man and woman in costumes(男女有別). and the excavated Supsin showed that the dead worn more ceremonial shoes than records. these changes mean one of the results for making korean style rituals from chinese style(國俗化).

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.62-86
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• 1970

A study on the upper garment of Korean women, JUORI The upper garment of Korean women. JUGORI, is an inherited mode from the ancient clothing style in the various aspects based on the particulars of Korean clothes. The ancient style of clothes is originated from KWAMDUI belonging to inhabitants of Northern Territory of Korea. And it is quite different from Chinese clothes in lineage. However, this unicque mode of clothes has been much influnced by the Chinese culture and also by the climate of Korea. And it is quite different from Chinese clothes in lineage. However, this unicque mode of clothes has been much influnced by the Chinese culture and also by the climate of Korean penynsula. The changes of the pattern of JUGORI, in a word, is a sign of shortening tendency of size. This tendency of JUGORI is remarkably seen in the shortening of length and other parts are decreased in size. The JUGORI in the ancient age was fallen below the weist of woman, which is similar to Robe, and was worn with band. However, the length of the JUGORI has been gradually shortened, and therefore, GORUM took place of the band. The shortening tendency of JUGORI is seemed to be shown its sign in the initial time of its origin, because there are some evidences that the women in Sylla Dynasty, and this tendency has been much expedited during the period of Koryu Dynasty with influences of Monggorian culture (Won Lynasty of China) The oldest sample for data of JUGORI in nowaday is one the remains of Yi Dynasty, and this sample for data provides all the particulars of the modern pattern of JUGORI. The tendency of JUGORI had been continued even in Yi Dynasty, and at the end of the Dynasty, the clothes was shortened that the women felt inconvenient wearing it in the status of the shortened JUGORI which was even hardly cover the initial time of epoch of modernization induced from the Western civilization, and after 1920s and 1930s JUGORI become a larger tendency. This is a sing of revival of practical use and rationalization of JUGORI become a shortening tendency again, and the size is similar with that of early age of Yi Dynasty. Instead of these similarities, the particulars of modern JUGORI is weighing on much emphasis on curve beauty and expression of experior beauty. The reason is that, together with westernization of clothes, JUGORI became a special pattern of clothes as a traditional Korean women wears. The very thing explaining this pattern of JUGORI is the "ARIRANG DRESS". And there are some fashion using button instead of GORUM and half sleeve JUGORI for summer use which is regarded as a part of improved aspect of life in Korea. in Korea.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.10
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• pp.1608-1618
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• 2008

This research was conducted to define the different conventional meanings of face painting, we can come across easily in recent days, in different times and different cultures. The conclusions of the research are as followed. First, the face painting was mainly done for the symbolic function. Second, in un-cultivated groups, face painting was one way of body art expression and in some cases, the color and the pattern was the tool to give a symbolic massage that was more powerful than a language. The characteristics of the patterning was that they adopted wide range of patterns include geriatrics, abstract, animals, plants and especially the abstract patterns have the groups unique symbolic meanings such as specific pattern appears guard god which was the effort of having a wholeness with the pattern. Third, it is known that in un-cultivated cultures, face painting has a symbolic function whereas in modern society, there is an emphasis on a decorative function. Lastly, the various expressions of modern body decorations are seen as a result of social/cultural states of the settlement ethnic culture and the modern life style of the people who want to have direct and active opinions and individualize and differentiate themselves.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.7
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• pp.155-163
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• 2000

The objectives of this study were to examine how clothing design preference and clothing attitude vary according to gender of the aging. Using the data collected through interview with 200 subjects who were 60years of age and older residing at Kunsan city area in Korea. These data were analyzed by frequency and $\chi$$^2$-test. The tendency of the gender on jacket stymie preference showed that men liked the soutien collar jacket, two button sing1e Jacket, and four button double jacket, women liked two button single jacket, three button single Jacket and four button double jacket. The general preference did allot depend on the practical purchasing. Men preferred more the soutien collar jacket than the women. On the shirts pattern preference, men liked thick horizon and plaid pattern, while the women liked polk dots pattern and small flowered one. The practical clothing purchase was done by themselves directly. The important criteria depended on the appearance style like simple and smart. For the main complaining factor to purchase the clothes, men considered the color, and women complained not to have suitable shopping stores. The most of all complaining was the expensive prices.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.4 no.1 s.7
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• pp.28-34
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to historically examine the thoughts and ideas of geometry and to analyze the expression style of design applied to the mass communication such as magazines and world wide webs, by giving definitions on the ideas of geometry and the pattern of cognition. Geometry was evolved to Descartes's analytical geometry, projective geometry, non-Euclidean geometry and Topology at the end of 19th century. When geometry applies to design styles, it is devided into two field, plane geometry and solid geometry. The development of geometry was completed from the Pythagoras symbolic theory of number to Platonic spiritual geometry and Euclidean geometry. It can be studied that those have what kind of symbolic meanings and transformations on each hair design plan. It can also analized how those symbolic forms are appeared on the design form. This tendency means that there is always a try for the use of geometry as reasonable device for hair design. If the hair design and geometry have logical and artistical relation, we can make buildings which have a order, balance and harmony.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.32 no.2
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• pp.219-230
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• 1994

The purpose of this comparative research is to investigate the change of the drafting method of the basic patterns for women in Korea. Followings were the findings of this research: 1) The concept of the basic pattern could be found after the first of the 1950s and there was introduction of the many basic patterns. At first measurement couldn't be found. Gradually the personal body type could be expressed in the basic pattern through the practical measurements such as the width of highest bust level and the length of neck to bust. 2) Through the ages the changes of the basic patterns were between 1950,60s and 1980,90s distinctively at the back width back shoulder angle front and back shoulder height from biceps line back neck ratio(height/width) BP position at the biceps line the amounts of underarm dart underarm dart position from the biceps lines and front ease angle at BP line. 3) 4 Grouping the types of the basic pattern followings are their characters; 1st Munwha or Doreme style 2nd waist dart group 3rd underarm dart and rectangular front ease 4th the usage of many measurements like as front length upper bust girth etc.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.97-103
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• 2008

This research thesis is designed to put Korean traditional and unique wedding dress with a greater significance and value than any other dress into application right for the global and contemporary trend, as part of a bid to show Korean traditional beauty. To do it, this thesis has attempted to add the traditional beauty to Korean inherent wedding dress and contemporary wedding dress, with the use of various traditional beauty elements, such as the line firm, materials and color based on the research on wedding dress, such as, 'Wonsam' or 'Unlined Jacket, and 'Long-sleeve Red Silk Jacket', and 'Dangeu' or 'Court Suit' that women wore in the Joseon Dynasty. To recreate Korean traditional beauty of line this research thesis has firstly put into the application the sleeve of 'Wonsam' or 'Unlined Jacket' and the form of a large section of 'Wonsam' of 'Unlined Jacket', and 'Doreyon Line' or 'Trimming Line' of 'Dangeu' or 'Court Suit' as wedding dress that women wore in the Joseon Dynasty. Secondly, this thesis has applied lotus and peony patterns out of traditional ones inlaid with 'Long-Sleeve Silk Jacket' into the contemporary wedding dress to develop a creative and special design. Thirdly, regarding the expressive pattern technique, this thesis has designed the repetitive rhythmical pattern with the use of beading technique and embroidery technique, which makes needle work picture and pattern in fabric. Lastly, it can demonstrate the original and distinct Korean style in application of western wedding dress into traditional and contemporary dress, by devising two collections of dress art pieces.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.91-105
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• 2010

The purposes of this study were to segment consumers by life style groups and to investigate the differences among the segmented groups in regard to Korean image preferences in casual wear. The subjects of the study were 653 women consumers who lived in Seoul. Data were collected from July to September, 2007. Statistical analyses used in the study were factor analysis, cluster analysis, ANOVA, and Scheffe test. The results showed that there were seven factors of life style: fashion and appearance interest, pride in Korea, sociability, interest in foreign culture, family centered, sports/culture, and interest in Korean food. Based on the seven factors, the consumers were segmented into three groups. They were fashion/diverse culture interest group, family/recreation oriented group, and sociability/family oriented group. The results showed that there were significant differences among the lifestyle segmented groups in regard to Korean image preferences for color, fabric, pattern, and categories of casual wear, and the intention to purchase the casual wear. For example, fashion/diverse culture interest group preferred diverse Korean prints, red, orange, blue and white colors, natural fabrics, and various types of casual wear. Also, the group has the highest interest and intention in wearing Korean image casual wear.

• Journal of Korean Society of Archives and Records Management
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• v.1 no.2
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• pp.159-183
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• 2001

The praying sentences of the script of Saddharmapundarika-sutra NO.5 which was made by prayer Bang-Ui, prince Ik-An, was investigated and the cover painting, Byonsangwha(Buddha's preaching painting), and letter style written in the script were discussed in this study. The cover painting on the script is known to be followed to the style of the cover painting as shown in a set of 7 rolls of Saddharma pundarika-sutra of the Horim Museum collection. It is not so difficult to say that the characteristics of cover painting of the script would be suceeded to those of scripts of the end of Koryo and the early Choseon Dynasty. Lotus and its surround was decorated with arabesque figure whose stems were drawn with golden paste and the arabesque figures were done with silver paste. However, for the expression of lotus and arabesque pattern the special feature of drawing style that was originated from the end of Koryo Dynasty to draw the outline with broad line and/or the hardness of drawing line became much more deepened than ever. It is not different to think that this characteristics should be those of Choseon Dynasty. On the Byeonsangwha(buddha's preaching painting) the painting of scattered flowers on stairs of Sumera-Mandala and the scheduled clouds (underseen from heaven) were as similar as to the Byeonsangwha style of the end of Koryo and the early Choseon Dynasty. However, the image of Shakyamuni and/or the halo(光背) is nearly same as the characteristics shown on the Beonsangwha of Saddharma pundarika-sutra of Nesosa' collection, a set of seven rolls which was completed in the 15th year of king Taejong(AD 1415). It is apparent that these characteristics are those of Choseon Dynasty. After king Chungsean in Koryo Dynasty, letter style of Chao Meng-Fu was shown in the script of late Koryo Dynasty as a new letter style.