• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.27
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• pp.163-171
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• 1996

As the current stage of the fashion begins to follow the styles of the past the study on he past costume is getting more importance and as the methodology of the study the accurately ap-proached study through the rehabilitation of the past costume is more needed than the simple re-arrangement of the historical documents. By this methodology this study can be positioned as a re-creation activity. The results of the study are as follows. 1) Style: The S-line silhouette remains be-cause of the straight silhouette or the blossom style bodice. This dress has various types of sil-houette but generally it forms one silhouette and is one-piece. 2) color and Material: The material varies hile the color is divided as the main color of ivory and the stress color of brown. This shows not only that the material has been varied but also that they tried to reduce the monotony. 3) Pattern and Sewing: The simple external figure and the previous stage typically shows the movement to the simplicity of the contemporary and the num-ber of patterens is plenty and the sewing method is also complex. 4) Detail. To overcome the simplicity of the style and to show the characteristics of the afternoon dress the skunk fur the net the sash, and the bow are used. 5) Structural Characteristics: The front open-ing the back opening and the side opening coexists in one-pieced dress and this forms unique structure and complex fastening device. The ribbon tape and casing not only finish the seam but also fix the shape of the dress. Synthetically the 1913-14 afternoon dress has the characteristics of transitional stage in which the characteristics of the costume of 1910s and the remnants of the characteristics of the pre-vious costume style and shows the character-istics of afternoon dress well in terms of the ma-terial the structure and the detail.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.46
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• pp.67-88
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• 1999

텍스타일의 발전에 있어서 진보적 기술혁신은 합성섬유의 잠재력을 높이는데 큰 촉매 역할을 해왔는데 그 중 가장 두드러지게 성공적인 분야는 바로 스트레치 직물 분야이다. 스트레치는 그자체의 다양한 종류와 변화무쌍한 특성과 함께 스포츠 웨어, 캐주얼웨어 뿐 아니라 최근에는 정장류 남성복에 이르기 까지 그 사용범위와 미적 표현이 크게 증가되고 다양해졌다. 스트레치의 미는 기능적이고 편안하면서도 직물자체의 유동적인 특성과 함께 인체와 더불어 표출되는시각적 이미지가 현대미에 새로운 개념을 더하고있다는 데에 그 가치가 있다. 본 연구목적은 현대 패션디자인에 표현되어진 스트레치의 미적 개념과 가치가 무엇인가를 발견하는데 있다. 특히 섬유과학기술의 진보로 인한 스트레치 직물의 다양함과 그에대한 디자이너들의 패션철학과 디자인의 다양한 변화를 강조하고 나아가 다음세기를 위한 보다 나은 디자인의 방향을 제시해 보고자한다. 연구결과는 다음과같다. 1, 스트레치의 가장 두드러지는 현대적 미는 편안함과 기능성에 있다. 특히 스트레치 직물 자체가 더욱 가벼워지고 강해지면서 현대생활과 미래생활에서 가장 크게 중시되고 있는 comfortable & functional 의 이상적인 개념을 충적시켜 주고 있다. 2. 스트레치 직물의 유동적특징에서 대표적으로 나타난 스타일은 바디스트인데 이것은 스트레치 자체의 신축성이 기본적으로 인체곡선 위에서 표현되어진 것으로서 거의 비슷한 스타일의 uniformity 현상을 낳게 되었고 또한 인체선의 드러남으로 인해 'healthy'이미지 추구라는 현대미의 새로운 개념을 가져왔다. 2. 더욱 정교해진 스트레치는 결국 transparent look을 낳았고 또한 비치는 직물들을 겹쳐입는 layering 현상을 가져왔는데 이것은 현대적 순수미와 여성미가 시감각적 이미지로 표현되어진 것이라 할수 있다. 4. 스트레치가 되므로서 생기는 긴장은 다른 디자인 요소들에 대해서는 극히 단순한 것을 요구하면서 결국 simplicity를 동반하게 되었다. 5. 스트레치는 디자인 구성 요소들의 보다 작은 개념을 낳았는데 즉 더욱 좁아진 형과 작아진 사이즈 없어지거나 줄어든 다트와 구성선 그리고 그에따라 줄어든 공정과 낮아진 가격이다. 이 개념은 현대미의 minimalism의 한 현상으로 해석되어지며 스트레치 직물은 여기에 가장 부합되는 소재가 되었다. 6. 스트레치의 시각적 이미지는 그자체가 'easy' 'free'느낌과 함께 보편적이면서 미래적이다. 이상으로 볼 때 미래의 패션은 보다 진보적인 섬유과학발전에 힘입어 21세기의 새로운 환경에 잘 적응 할 수 있는 합리적이면서도 미적 가치가 내포된 인간에게 보다 친숙한 디자인으로 전개되리라고 생각되어진다.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.7
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• pp.65-76
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• 2009

Korea has established a code for the economic and cultural industry that covers a wide range of classes unlike the old information era which was limited to the simple knowledge, technology, tools, morals, and customers that had been established in our society. On the other hand, 'culture marketing' is a series of marketing activities in which value-added items are created and shared. The combination of business management and culture seemed pretty awkward considering how rapidly the world was changing, however, the nature of today's culture has changed and the economic nature of culture products has resulted from those changes. In this paper, two authors who expressed the cultural identity in the culture products are studied through a comparison analysis; the author Min Yeongsoon expressed the identity confusion that she experienced in a foreign country and how she overcame homesickness in her work; and the author Kim Ata expressed his confidence in Asia and used his clear and loud voice to express the culture in his work. In addition, today's culture products are affected by the surrounding cultures such as the member's traditional society, environmental culture, and individual's culture. It is a good source for good works of art. In this study, the efforts of seeking the cultural identity, structuring the concept, seeking a new market and possibilities are used to make a consistent process in order to make a series of the systems required for planning and developing culture products.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.7
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• pp.1-12
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• 2012

The purpose of this study was to investigate the relationships between the hairstyle behavior, hairstyle image preference and life satisfaction of women in their 20s, 30s, and 40s, and to examine the differences of the hairstyle behavior, hairstyle image preference, and preferred hairstyle according to demographic variables. The research method was a survey method using a questionnaire. Total of 674 women in their 20s, 30s, and 40s were tested, 309 of whom residing in the Seoul metropolitan area, with the remaining 365 residing in Gangweon-Do. Life satisfaction factors such as socio-economic satisfaction, happiness, and physical satisfaction significantly influenced the women's hairstyle behavior. The women with higher level of physical satisfaction had higher level of conformity, individuality, fashion, and interpersonal orientation of hairstyle. It also showed that the higher the level of socio-economic satisfaction meant greater preference for graceful hairstyle images. As well as the level of happiness correlated with the preference for feminine and sophisticated hairstyle images. The women who preferred long layered wave hairstyles liked feminine, natural, and sophisticated hairstyle images. The women in their late 40s had higher interpersonal orientation of hairstyle than those in their early 20s and 30s. Overall, a natural hairstyle image was favored the most, whereas a unique image was favored the least.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.4
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• pp.92-102
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• 2011

This study researches the current status of shrouds and analyzes the current status of the Hanji shrouds and sets its goal on suggesting the direction for a futuristic shroud design, suitable for the changing funeral culture. For this, the characteristics of traditional shrouds were studied, standard shrouds' and Hanji shrouds' current statuses were researched and analyzed to suggest the development diretion for design of Hanji shrouds. The results of the research showed that the Hanji shrouds are superior in cremation and burial, and the design expressions were more effective. Also the previously established shrouds were shown to have an increase in value through use of different materials, changing designs through various patterns, or through the added symbolic value. Thus the direction of shroud development designs based on the advantages of Hanji have been drawn out to as follows: First, traditional shrouds used the ceremonial dresses, such as official uniforms or wedding dresses, from the Tang dynasty which made it multicolored. Afterwards colors were limited with the use of hemp clothes shrouds but with the appearance of Hanji shrouds, the possibility for mulitcolors and patterns became larger. Second, Hanji is superior in its expression of colors and patterns, making designs with symbolic sides such as religion possible, to meet the demands of the customers. Third, Hanji shrouds are more environmentaly friendly than the standard shrouds in cremation and burial, and it presents a much better image of shrouds for the future society. Such development of Hanji shrouds design developments satisfies the distinct and gentrified demands of the customers and it looks to be able to suggest an opportunity for environmentaly friendly actions while preparing itself for the chaning market demands and values.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.6 s.115
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• pp.172-183
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to examine the dress and its ornaments of low-level officials shown in Tamna-Sullyeokdo, the paintings of the inspection tour of Jeju Island. The low-level officials Include low-level soldiers-sungjungun, gichigun, foot soldiers, cavalries, gunroe, ilsu, artillerymen, najang, and sawon-, musicians, servants, and kisaengs in government employ. 1. Different types of low-level soldiers tended to wear different kinds of clothes that is worn under an outer garment and to wear different coats and trousers depending on an outer garment. That is, sungjunggun, gichigun, foot soldiers, and cavalries were jeonbok over a jeogori and baji. On the other hand, gunroe, ilsu, artillerymen, and najang were houi or jakui over a jeogori and baji. However, Sawon simply were Jeonbok or armer or they wore Cheolik in formal occasions. 2. Musicians wore a jeonlib, a type of hat, decorated with an ear of barley and a red houi over a Jungchimak, a man's outer coat with large sleeves. Musicians wore colorful red clothes in order to add to the amusement during military trainings or banquets. 3. Servants in government employ had their hair in plaits and wore a jeonbok over a Jungchimak or baji and jeogori. However, when they dance during banquets, they were cheolik and jeonlib decored with/without an ear of barley or red flowers. 4. Gisaengs in government employ wore a gache on their head and wonsam, a woman's full dress during big occasions. They, on the other hand, wore a jeogoli and chima for regular occasions.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.6 s.115
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• pp.17-31
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• 2007

Fashion of one period is symbolic and figurative means of expression reflecting spirit, ideology, emotion and aesthetic values of that period. Designs of school uniforms fer girls also went through changes in various shapes along with changes in sociocultural and philosophical backgrounds in each period. Thus, in this study, in examining girls' school uniforms, how girls' school uniforms have evolved with what kind of design characteristics was observed along with process of historical changes, and investigation was made on realistic conditions of girls school uniforms since 1996 when active advancements in school uniform design were started. Also, through examination of girls' school uniform designs from homepage of large student uniform companies and catalogues, characteristics of girls' school uniforms after 1996 were observed. On the result, we could know that girl's school uniforms from 1996 to 2006 were designed in various forms compared to those of the past time and changing Arends of the era were reflected on the school uniform designs. Narrow waistline, shorter blouse, changes in the length of jacket and skirt showed that current school uniform designs pursue the fashionable and trendy designs unlike those of the past times that were uniform and strict. This study include organizing characteristics of girls' school uniform designs by each period, providing fundamental and realistic data for clothes manufacturing and marketing activities through analysis on designs of girls' school uniforms since 1996, and providing directions for future school uniform designs.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.67 no.1
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• pp.130-146
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• 2017

This study focuses on the Mise-en-abyme theories of Lucien $D{\ddot{a}}llenbach$, and presents research methodology to analyze the modern cinema costume in a new view. Inherent aesthetic values of the costume code shown in the film are as follows. First, esthetics value shown is the analogic code through the maximization of factual realism by directing target. Mise-en-abyme placed in this film plays the role of costume codes, and highlights the subject by presenting specifically targeted realistic icons to maximize the realism of the movie. Second, Mise-en-abyme is deployed to the explicit text through costumes code is placed as Displaced code arrangements. In other words, each of the characters is a signifier. Symbolizing a historical era is the device that represents a self-reflective signifier. Third, paradoxically reflected by the overlapped expansion of virtual reality and the self-referential characteristics and are subject to reflect the thinking of the author. Costumes code placed in Mise-en-abyme is expressed in costumes positioned to maximize the realism in the film as described above, and implies narratives and self-reflective mediating tools that symbolism can be seen that the paradoxical metaphor for the reality and the future. In addition, through the metaphor of visual narrative is allegorical representation Mise-en-abyme with ambiguity, and it is a concrete text that can be realized in a variety of creative storytelling methods and image delivery methods of modern fashion. This study confirmed that this costumes to take the point of view of emotional $Mise-en-sc{\grave{e}}ne$ in the process of completing the film's themes and cinematic devices by identifying the roles and aesthetic value of code costumes as the core subjects that make up the narrative of the film.

• The Journal of Korean Institute of Communications and Information Sciences
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• v.37 no.3B
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• pp.165-173
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• 2012

In this paper, we propose a random backoff scheme for Emergency Warning Messages (EWMs) in the vehicle-to-vehicle environment. The EWMs are disseminated from a vehicle that detects an emergency situation to other vehicles in a multi-hop fashion. Since the vehicle-to-vehicle communication based on IEEE 802.11 adapts CSMA/CA, the density of vehicles increase the probability of collisions between transmissions. Moreover, in the presence of background traffic, the EWM should have a higher priority than that of other messages in neighboring vehicles. To that end, we propose the Distant-Dependent Adaptive Backoff (DDAB) scheme, which set a different contention window for random backoff depending on the distance from the sender to the receiver. In the case when a vehicle is expected to located in the outskirts of the communication boundary, the proposed scheme makes the contention window size small in order to compete the background traffic transmission. Otherwise the contention window is set to a large number to reduce the collision possibility among the EWM transmissions. Via simulations, we show that the proposed scheme performs better than the previous schemes for EWM.

• The Korean Journal of Physiology
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• v.25 no.1
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• pp.87-99
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• 1991

In order to elucidate whether capsaicin applied topically acts as a pain-producing subastance or as a tastant, neuronal activities of the chorda tympani nerve(CN), lingual nerve(LN), solitary tract nucleus(STN), and trigeminal nucleus(TGN) were recorded while thermal and taste stimuli, and capsaicin were being applied topically, and algesics intra-arterially to the tongue of cats anesthetized with ${\alpha}-chloralsoe$. In addition, the STN neurons were examined after wheat germ agglutinin-horseradish peroxidase(WGA-HRP) was applied to the CN. The CN fibers responded to taste and thermal stimuli, algesics, and capsaicin. Responses to capsaicin were significantly correlated with those to taste and thermal stimuli. The LN fibers mainly responded to mechanical and thermal stimuli, algesics, and capsaicin. Responses to capsaicin were significantly correlated with those to algesics. The STN neurons responded to taste and thermal stiumli, algesics, and capsaicin. Responses to capsaicin were significantly correlated with those to taste and thermal stiumli in somewhat different fashion from those of the CN fibers. The TGN neurons mainly responded to mechanical stimuli, algesics, and capsaicin. Correlations between responses to capsaicin and any others were not significant. After WGA-HRP was applied to the CN, the STN neurons which receive input from the CN were identified largely in the medio-ventral portion to the solitary tract. These results suggest that capsaicin produce taste as well as pain sensation. Sensory information evoked by capsaicin can be conveyed to the STN, especially medio-ventral portion, via the CN as gustatory information on the one hand, and to the STN or TGN via the LN as noxious information on the other. In addiation, the noxious information may be conveyed to the STN via the CN.