• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.44 no.10
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• pp.79-90
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to make new suggestions for the production of high value-added, fashion goods by reviewing and synthesizing the design of dress shirts. (Ed-I've combined paragraphs here) For this study, 1491 photographs on the dress shirts were collected for analysis from men's collection$(2001\sim2006)$. Concerning the actual characteristics of men's fashion design, the following conclusions were obtained from the analysis of the dress shirts of men's collection. (Ed-I've combined paragraphs here) First, feminine ornaments such as frill, pin tuck, and embroidery can be seen in men's dress shirts and men's sexuality has changed into a softer men's image. Second, asymmetry balance using detachability are expressed in the collars, sleeves, and plackets of men's dress shirts. Third, in a very novel suggestion, a combination of two items was designed in a dress shirt and variant shirt forms were created. Fourth, formal style is mainly shown in men's shirts and the traditional classic is increasingly becoming emphasized recently

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.1
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• pp.99-111
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• 2012

This paper investigates the formative features and the historical meaning of the Korean dress collection held in the Horniman Museum in London. The Museum holds eighteen items of Korean dresses donated by Mrs. C. de J. Luxmore in 1948 and by Mrs. Bowra in 1953. Male dresses consist of white silk outer robe (durumagi), a pale violet silk waistcoat (jokki), a jade green silk jacket (jeogori), pale yellow silk trousers (baji), a pair of ankle bands (daenim), a cotton waistband (dae), a silk purse (jumeoni), a rattan under-vest (deungbaeja), a pair of rattan wristlets (deungtosi), a top hat (gat) and a skullcap (tanggeon). Female dresses comprise a jade green silk jacket (jeogori), an ivory silk skirt (chima), a light blue silk petticoat (sokchima), two kinds of white cotton trousers (sokbaji and soksokgot), a pair of silk wristlets (tosi) and a pair of padded socks (beoseon). A Korean dress collection of the Horniman Museum shows a set of ordinary dress items worn by a married couple in the 1930s and the 1940s. Of these items, a silk petticoat (sokchima) and a rattan under-vest (deungbaeja) can be highly evaluated as object resources in the history of Korean dress. The petticoat is a rare and valuable example that represents an early type of modern petticoat that has replaced a traditional petticoat (dansokgot). The rattan under-vest has square neckline and two tiny sleeves similar to a Western cap sleeve. This kind of under-vest is a transitional form shown between under-vest similar to the Korean waistcoat (baeja) and one similar to the Western waistcoat (jokki).

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.42 no.4
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• pp.571-583
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• 2018

'Dress of the Year' by the UK Fashion Museum in Bath suggested an ideal role for a fashion museum and created fashion history along with the development of fashion journalism. A case study and literature research identified the characteristics of this scheme in terms of roles and functions for a fashion museum and defined them as: suggestion of collection cases, data construction for fashion research, and contribution to fashion critique. First, it suggested a good case of collection process. The 'Dress of the Year' creates a museum identity with a collection selected by designated journalist reviewer every year in order to maintain and strengthen a virtuous cycle. Second, it contributed to the accumulation of data for fashion research. The vast amount of data accumulated for more than 50 years became a fashion history that shows the change of fashion trends with a value of public confidence. It presented the possibilities of fashion research in various perspectives. Third, it contributed to the development of fashion criticism. The development of fashion journalism was conducted on the initiative of 'Dress of the Year' as well as contributed to the birth and growth of fashion journalists.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.3 s.112
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• pp.63-77
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to apply fashion design to developing dress design of mobile-phone game characters. As for the research methodology, first, market research has been carried out to extract main images from dress designs of game characters and to understand their socio-cultural meanings. Second, the fashion design, which ran be compared to the extracted images of game characters were selected. Third, analyses were done to find out the gap between the game character's dress designs and the fashion designs. The main images of game characters are revealed as erotic, romantic, heroic, grotesque. These images have been formed by psychological and socio-cultural effects such as stimulation, empathy, compensation, increase of female game player. The differences between the game character's dresses and the fashion designs are as follows; With regard to style, game dresses have silhouette distinguished from background, but fashion collection have blurred silhouette. In the aspect of color, while strong colors are mainly used in game dress, neutral rotors are preferred in fashion collection. As for texture, the expression of 'textures in game character's dress is so far limited due to the insufficient level of the concerned technology. However, the fashion design applying drape of fabrics are well-developed. Mobile-phone game players want reality in game design. Therefore, the effort to overcome the gaps between game dress and fashion design can contribute to the growth of game character design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.9
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• pp.84-96
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• 2011

This paper investigates the formative features and the historical meaning of the Korean dress collection held in the Museum of Archaeology and Anthropology in Cambridge. The Museum holds a total of eleven items of koran dresses that were donated by two anthropologists in the first half of the twentieth century. Male dresses consist of a white cotton jacket (Jeogori), a under-vest (Deungbaeja) made of light wisteria rings, a headband (Manggeon) made of horsehair, a broad brimmed top hat (Gat) made of black horsehair gauze, an oilskin cover (Galmo) drawn over the hat in wet weather, and a hemispherical hat box (Gatjib). Female dresses comprise a pink silk jacket (Jeogori), a blue silk skirt (Chima) with pleats, a pair of woman's white cotton trousers (Sokgot), a black silk cap (Jobawi) decorated with pink tassels and imitation pearls, and a pair of green and magenta silk shoes (Danghye) with leather soles and metal rivets. Theses Korean dresses show what the western anthropologists had interests in. When collectors collect the folk objects, they thought much of the specificity of shape and material, the esthetic appreciation, and the representation of daily life. In terms of the value as the historical materials in the history of Korean dress, the under-vest of wisteria, the hat box, and the female dresses are worth paying attention to. The under-vest is one that was produced in earlier time among the remaining under-vests. The hat box represents that the hat belonged to the merchant classes. The female dress items show daily dresses worn by women of higher classes of the society in the 1920s.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.38
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• pp.233-244
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• 1998

This research wants to find the possibility for new paradigm of modern Korean dress by accepting and harmonizing the tradition and the modernization of Korean design when Korean designers enter into Paris collection and express identity of Korean fashion, and investigates the characteristics of Korean design with concentrating on the works of Young-hee Lee, Shin-woo Lee, Tae-ok Jin who have exhibited their works at Paris Collection. For one of the above characteristics Young-hee Lee, a designer of Korean clothes, emphasized to build up image of Korean fashion as a form of Korea without any modification, and expressed universal western-style silhouette as Korean image by using traditional technique including dyeing and silk made by herself, quil-t and decorative saddle stitching. In the as-pect that a chain of work has made not by westernization of Korean clothes but by re-creation of Korean clothes, it suggested a new way of modern Korean fashion with harmonizing tradition with modernizations as of present based on our own dress tradition and have got good reputation from the press and the field in Paris as well. Therefore the tradition and the modernization of Korean design is not confronted or compromised in form, color, material, motif and decoration but has to be harmonized and reconciled independently in order that visual characteristics of dress can be made as one of Korean image.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.39-48
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• 1999

본 연구의 목적은 두 종류의 다른 연구자료- 유물과 문헌자료를 이용하여 1950년대 초기에 유행하였던 미국여성복식 가운데 쉬스 드레스(sheath dress)의 디자인 특징을 고찰하는 데에 있다. 본 연구의 일차자료로는 하와이대학교(University of Hawaii)의 The Western Costume Collection에 소장된 1950년대 초기의 복식으로 추측되는 유물과 1950년부터 1955년 사이에 출판된 Vogue, Harper's Bazaar, New York Times Magazine을 문헌자료로 이용하였다. 연구결과, 1950년대 초기의 미국 여성복 디자인의 특징은 여성의 신체적 특징을 강조하며 여성스러움의 미를 극단적으로 추구하는 쉬스 드레스(sheath dress)의 ‘the straight and slender look’으로 요약될 수 있었다. 나아가 문헌분석을 통하여 본 연구의 유물자료가 50년대 초기(1950-1954)의 미국여성복식 디자인의 특징을 보여주는 대표적인 이 시기의 복식유물로 그 사용연대가 확증되었다. 본 연구는 지금까지 주로 문헌자료의 분석만으로 한정되어 왔던 한국의 전형적인 서양복식연구에서 한 걸음 나아가 과거에 실제로 입혀졌던 복식에 대한 이해를 확장하기 위한 또 하나의 연구방법으로 문헌분석과 유물분석(object study)을 병행하여 시도해 보았다는 데에 그 의의가 있다.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.266-276
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• 2000

This study was designed to examine the consumers' fashion store choice process based on the wedding dress stores, and also to find the consumers' shopping orientation and store attributes affects to store choice process. This study adapted a survey method. Each 48 wedding dress stores in Ahyun-dong and Kangnam were selected, and 325 women who got married within 2 years ago were recruited, convenient sampled as the subjects and the survey methodology was used for data collection. And convenience sampling method was used for data collection. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; First, wedding dress buyers wear classified into four subdivisions by shopping orientation; reputation-oriented group, utility-oriented group, fashion-oriented group, and time-oriented group. Second, there was significant differences in store choice type between shopping orientation group. Third, in case of important ranks on store attributes, evaluation of store attributes for each step-consideration step, visit step and choice step-was revealed to be coherent. Fourth, there was differences in important ranks among each groups. The most important attribute for all the groups was design, but reputation-oriented group raid importance to reputation of store, utility-oriented group and time-oriented group to economy, and fashion-oriented group to variety than other groups. Firth, there was no significant difference in attitude for wedding dress stores by shopping orientation groups and demographic characteristics.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.4 no.2
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• pp.128-136
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• 2002

This research was designed to study the Korean dress design trends and different kinds of ancient patterns applied to the Korean dresses in 2001. The trend sources were collected by the HANBOK monthly journal and the symbolism of patterns associated with these patterns being used the prevalent Korean dress collection in markets. The results of the research can be summarized as following; The most of Korean dress image was elegant of ancient mode. Main colors of the traditional Korean jacket were white, yellowish white and green. However, main color of the traditional Korean skirt was represented as red. A plant pattern was the most popular pattern in a practical purpose. It looks beautiful and it is also easily manufactured with open space. Copying other patterns definitely damage the elegance of the Korean dress. It is time for us to not only keep our own traditions but also study and develop new patterns. Designers must study to develop the image and patterns which are agreed with consumer's taste.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.9
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• pp.161-176
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• 2007

The objectives of this study are to select and analyze unpublished wedding dresses in the 19th century, to investigate the design characteristics and making techniques of Victorian wedding dresses, and to examine the correlation between the wedding dress style and the fashion style in those days and the influence of the wedding dress style on contemporary's styles. The materials of this study were 9 wedding dresses owned by the Historical Costume and Textile Collection at the University of Connecticut in USA. The dresses were made during the mid and late Victorian Age. As for silhouette, the bustle style was popular in the 1870s and 1880s, and the hourglass style in the 1890s, and different from contemporary dresses there were no big differences in structural pattern and details between ordinary dresses and wedding dresses. In addition, colored wedding dresses were used until the mid and late Victorian Age, but since the wedding ceremony of Queen Victoria in 1840, white wedding dress was widely accepted and settled as the tradition of today's wedding dresses. While the Western dress style had been basically a one piece style, there appeared simple two piece designs in which the upper garment was separated from the lower one, from the mid Victorian Age. This is considered the reflection of those days' pragmatic social trend in dress style. It seems around 1875 when asymmetric design was first introduced in the Western dress style, which had been mostly symmetric. The asymmetric style that pursued atypical beauty, though not common during the late Victorian Age, shows a change in the typical Western dress style. With regard to dress making techniques, sewing machines were distributed widely during the early Victorian Age but they were not used in all parts of dress. Most of details and trimming works were done manually and some parts were attached and detached by hand sewing. In addition, not like today, there were no generalized rules of making such as the form of closings and composition.