• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.5
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• pp.51-61
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• 2015

This study examines the types and forms of underwear worn during the Joseon Dynasty period, and the purpose of this study is to apply the Joseon underwear design elements into designs of modern clothes, and make clothes that have practical use. In addition, it examines natural dyeing in the production of works, using a dye that contains tannin to increase color fastness. This study, first, looked into the types of female underwear during the late-Joseon Dynasty period through literature research and literature study. Second, the study chose artificial silk material (rayon), which was applied with dye containing tannin, and then with indigo (Jjok) and a different dye. Also, the study tested color fastness by washing the material, and rubbing fastness was tested if the material was either dyed with indigo. if it was dyed first with dye stuff containing tannin, and then with indigo dyeing color. Third, using the underwear types in the Joseon Dynasty period, the study developed and produced a dress, a skirt and pants that could be worn in modern life on a daily basis by applying Mujigi-chima (underwearskirt), Dan-sokgot (slip), Salchang-gojaengi (loosedrawers) and Sok-baji (bloomers) forms. Dresses applying underwear skirt using naturally-dyed artificial silk, dresses applying Salchang-gojaengi, dresses applying Dan-sokgot, skirt without a crotch designed in the form of pant swith an open crotch, and pant skirt with a crotch-applying pants with an open crotch were produced. In the future, hopefully, various studies of collaborations of Korean traditional clothing, and natural dyeing will continue to kee) the tradition alive.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.4
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• pp.598-610
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• 2009

The aim of this study was to present a flexible and satisfactory clothing design for girls aged 4 to 6 years of age, which can be worn comfortably for 3 years, during that age range. This study focuses attention on the need for well-fitting clothes in the young girls' market, and provides a basis for development of designs that can be worn for a long time, are comfortable for children to wear, and reflect preferences of both children and parents. Documentary research was executed to examine the history and changes of children's wear. Internet and market research were carried out to understand the current situation of girls' clothing in Korea. In-depth interview subjects were girls aged 4 to 6 and their guardians. Subjects were asked questions related to children's wear size and design, and measurements were taken of child subjects. Children's wear on the Internet was found to be trendy and inexpensive but of a low quality, as was children's wear at Dongdaemun market. Children's wear at department stores was of high quality and pretty, but did not consider size much and was expensive. One problem of the Korean children's wear market was lack of a unified size system. In-depth interviewees pointed out that there are not many clothes that fit their children perfectly. Problems included t-shirt, sleeve and pants length. Parents said they preferred simple and clean designs, and children interviewees all liked pink dresses and skirts. Children's physical measurements presented by Size Korea were compared and verified with measurements taken of child interviewees, and used as a basis for patterns. The study presented two designs for girls of ages 4 to 6 to wear all through that age range. A sample was made for one of the designs, and an evaluation showed very successful results.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.41 no.5
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• pp.193-203
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• 2003

Magoja is a jacket for men and women. Magoja was worn between the jacket, jogori and the coat durumagi; that is over the jacket and under the coat. In the 19th century, Daewon-kun, who was wearing maqua, was in China and he came back to Korea. So, it was believed that the origin of magoja was from maqua from Qing. But, there were differences between magoja and maqua in their design. Therefore, I researched the origin of magoja and tried to know the design and the method of wearing magoja in the Chosun dynasty. The results are as follows. The design of magoja, especially its collar, was different from Chinese maqua. As analyzed above, it is difficult to regard the origin of magoja as deriving from Daewon-kun's maqua, which he wore when he went to Qing. Magoja-style jacket can be found from many old pictures. The collar of those jacket, whose style was waonsam-git unlike the present-day magoja, is consistent with the collar of sagyusam or baeja. And this kind of git style had existed for a long period of time as already studied in bangryungbangbi. Furthermore, the origin of this kind of jacket dated back to the maeksu of the Sung Dynasty; maek meaning Koguryo, maeksu was understood to indicate the style of the Koguryo jacket of short sleeves for the convenience of horseback riding. Maeksu, which varied in its kind and style, had been used as the equestrian clothes in China and was assumed to be particularly put on widely during the Yuan and Sung Dynasties. Maeksu continued to exist as daegeumeui during the Ming Dynasty but, later called magua, it was worn more widely ding the Qing Dynasty of the Manchus. This kind of maeksu or magua was the jacket which could be put on the coat and this style of wearing it during the Chosun Dynasty could be confirmed by the pictures. Therefore, magoja is not the jacket which was all of sudden derived from Qing's magua but one of traditional Korean clothes of the northern provinces which had existed for a long period of time. And magoja seemed to be put on more widely during the latter part of the Chosun Dynasty because of the influence of Qing's magua.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.14 no.3
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• pp.51-65
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• 2012

This research was conducted to provide basic data for the formulation of marketing strategies suitable to the increasingly globalizing clothing market for the elderly in the fashion industry, by comparing the clothing behavior and preferences of elderly women aged over 70 years in Korea with those of women in the U.S. The 106 questionnaire responses that were collected in the U.S. and the 235 responses that were collected in Korea were used for the analysis, The major objectives of this study were as follow; 1. It was found that the elderly women of Korea utilize mostly human information as information source when purchasing clothing, whereas women of U.S. utilize mostly media information. Comfort was found to be most important factor both countries, but the Korean women considered the aesthetic aspect of clothing more important than did American women. 2. The clothing preference of Korean elderly women aged over 70 years was concentrated in young and feminine images regardless of items, so it could be seen that they had strong desire for looking young. But American elderly women showed different preference depending on items, so it could be seen that they pursue diverse images depending on clothing items and personality without concentrating in one image. The comparison of the preference style by item of elderly women over 70 years of age between Korea and the U,S. showed significant difference. Accordingly, the designs of the clothes of the Korean and American women should be differentiated and developed according to the clothes item and country.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.73-85
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to consider the characteristics of beauty culture in the latter period of Chosun Dynasty from the viewpoint of public morals and find out how characteristic beauty culture was developed along with traditional culture. Therefore, the clothes, the make-up, the style of beard and hair were examined and the beauty culture of women in the latter period Chosun Dynasty was considered. The changes of the beauty culture on the genre painting and the characteristics of the latter period Chosun Dynasty were analyzed. Conclusions are as follows ;First, in case of woman dress, the Korean Jergori was short and the Chima was too long. Due to the diversification of wearing, the underpants play as a decorations. Second, the hair which focus on the cleanness and the sanitation and the skin maintenance method were important. The make-up focus on make-up with powder which emphasis on the slim and round eyebrow, the small and thick lips for the beauty look of the latter period Chosun Dynasty. Third, a unmarried woman did the braids('Taun Muri') and a feme covert did 'Unseen Muri'. As people cling to the big and head of hairs gradually, the chignon('Terae Muri') was in fashion. The beauty culture in the latter period of Chosun Dynasty clothes and cosmetic treatment style were generalized through nobility, common people, lowly people. The imitation mentality which follow after Gisaeng style that led the fashion of that period was shown up. With understanding the beauty culture of the latter period of Chosun Dynasty, the study on the traditional beauty culture should be revitalized. This study help to uplift the pride on Korea traditional culture and to promote the globalization of Korean culture.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.29-41
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to improve the fitness of clothes by producing patterns considering body proportions at a time of producing clothes for export through extracting factors comprising body types and conducting comparative analysis of proportions by body part using body indexes of Korean women in their 20s living in both Korea and foreign countries. The study results are as follows. Factor analysis by group was conducted for body indexes in order to examine body types of Koreans living overseas. As a results, six factors were extracted from all of three groups; Joseonjok(Koreans living in China), Goryeoin(Koreans living in Russia) and Korean residents in Japan, and their explanatory powers were 60.42%, 63.62%, 63.15%, respectively. Obesity factor was extracted as the 1st factor, and the groups showed differences in other factors. As a result of proportion comparison using body indexes of Koreans living in foreign countries and Korea, it was found that, in height item, when regarding the height as 100, the length of the lower part of the body was long in the order of Goryeoin. Joseonjok, Koreans living in Korea and Korean residents in Japan. Also in width item, when regarding the waist as a standard, it was observed that Joseonjok people have the shoulders, the breasts and the hips that look relatively wider comparing with the width of the waists because they have very narrow waists and the width between shoulder length is big. In addition, the study examined proportions of the breast thickness/the breast width, the waist thickness/the waist width, the hip thickness/the hip width to height. From the analysis, it was found that breasts of Koreans living in Korea are flattest while their waists are slender, and Goryeoin and Joseonjok have round body shapes from the waist to the breast.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.1
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• pp.80-91
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to examine how he successfully connected his ideas of fashion design for art with the commerciality without a conflict about for 40 years. It is expected that this study will be a precedent in the aspect of the symmetry between artistry and commercialization in Issey Miyake's works. We will examine Issey Miyake's idea of fashion design and its development for the commercialization since 1970s that he started to give shape to his ideas in the fashion works to exactly commercialize in the market. 1. Re-creation of tradition(a piece of cloth): throughout the 1970s, Miyake continued to experiment with a variety of Eastern design elements. The elements of Japanese or oriental tradition made him to be at the very center of supreme of the world of fashion. He took advantages of his identity, and developed the tradition for mass produce. 2. Design for mass(Pleats Please): Miyake decided to make clothes for the people, not only for the top class of the society. This thought developed the designs for the mass, which were functional, universal for the modem buyer, and accessible to a wide market. He realized his ideal by the medium of pleats, which were made through industrial processes, while he tried variously the aspect of formative of the pleats in the collections. His designs concept is summarized by the industrial product design and anonymous design. 3. Innovation of manufacturing system(A-POC): Miyake in 1999 developed A-POC. A-POC is used modern computers in conjunction with traditional technology. A-POC does not make only a new cloth but also makes a new manufacturing system of clothes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.3_4 s.141
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• pp.523-534
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• 2005

This study was to examine the factor structure of pursuing benefit and satisfaction at casual and official wear, to analyze the differences of pursuing benefit, satisfaction, and clothing purchase behavior among the consumer groups segmented by store pursuing benefits, and to provide useful information for establishment of marketing strategies. The subjects were 500 female consumers experienced in purchasing clothes at fashion outlet stores. A total of 500 questionnaires were analyzed with $X^2$-test, ANOVA, factor analysis and Duncan's multiple range test. The results were as follows: 1. Pursuing benefit and satisfaction at casual wear and official wear were composed of 5 factors. 2. Pursuing benefit and satisfaction at casual and offcial wear, and clothing purchasing behavior variables such as informants, frequency of purchase, shopping time, and average monthly expenditure on clothes were significantly different among the 3 segmented groups. Product pursuing group was shown to seek higher level of esthetic feeling, suitability for self image and body, fsshion and symbolic meaning of brand than other groups in casual and official wear and to be most satisfied at symbolic meaning of brand, social recognition, and practicality in casual wear of outlet and at suitability and social recognition in official wear of outlet. Store convenience pursuing group was shown to seek higher level of suitability for self image and body, quality, and practicality than other groups in casual and official wear and to be most satisfied at quality and practicality in casual wear of outlet and at practicality and suitability in of cial wear of outlet. Price pursuing group was shown to seek and to be most satisfied at practicality in casual and official wear of outlet.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.7 s.98
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• pp.156-170
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• 2005

As contemporary art tends to diverge from its fixed genres and intends to appeal to the public, fashion comes to contribute to the contemporary art area, by playing an important part in the creation of artistic value of art work. Nowadays, it is not unusual to see fashion work shown in an art exhibition parallel with art work, since some artists adopt costumes as the medium of their work in order to explore various means of expression. The occurrence of philosophical, sociological theories concerning human body parallelled with the prevalence of the post-structuralist ideas and occurrence of various styles of artistic expressions of body encouraged active research and attracted social attention to body. With such background, fashion art was formed by a means of the integration of body and fashion in order to create extreme artistic expression. 1 intend to investigate a variety of trends in fashion art from the viewpoint of body space. This study developed criteria for fashion image in contemporary art. Those criteria are based on the dichotomy that divides body into inner aspects and outer aspects. According to the criteria, Firstly, the extension type of body shape includes enlargement and reduction as its sub-types. Secondly, the opening-closure type includes opening type and closure type as its sub-types. Thirdly, the intensity type categorizes clothes into uniqueness and hybridity. Dynamism type classifies fashion art into fixation and moving. The various expressions of clothes type are interpreted as a means by which we can criticize many phenomena of modern society, such as loss of humanity, isolation of individuals, loss of identity, commercialism, and materialism. In the latter period of modern society, the integration of the double-faced nature of body and spirit was attempted and popular fashion was introduced into art in order to express desire, death, gender, identity, and sexual pleasure.

• Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.47-51
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• 2016

It has made a special study of bending behavior of F.R.P. sandwich beams with bonded 2nd-reinforced plies. Specimen's faces were made of chopped mat 300-450, roving clothes 570, core is urethane foam, resin is 713bp unsaturated polyester for ship construction and the mixture weight ratio of resin versus fiber was 55:45 for bending analysis. The purpose of this paper is to study the exact bending behavior of bonded area's deflection and stiffness depends upon various bonded F.R.P. (2nd reinforced ply) length and thickness on which covered joints and to find the optimum design for the sandwich structures. All results and suggestions are based on experiment and using thick face calculation.