Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
/
v.17
no.4
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pp.117-129
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2015
This study is to find out the changes and features of male consumers' life style and purchase tendency according to the change of Korean fashion market, and based on which to suggest the design for the 20s men as well as a proper distribution channel for it. Documentary research and investigation were done together for the study. By reviewing documents focused on previous studies and declaring the change of men's fashion shopping tendencies and the following changes and features of their fashion sense and styles a conceptional frame for a design suggestion was presented. Ways to investigate were men's wear collection research, Q-technique. First of all, they tend to boldly reduce unnecessary purchases and do not hesitate to focus on the wanted item, expanding the trend of 'value purchase.' Secondly, men's wear use various design elements with feminine images, while the materials, colors and design expressive techniques that have been exclusively used for women's wear, began to be applied to men's one, turning them into gentle styles with womanhood is stressed. Thirdly, Korean distribution channel is rapidly diversified from departments to new-concept ones such as multi-brand stores. Especially, displaying and selling various optional products, multi-brand stores lead such diversification of fashion distribution channel. Fourthly, features of the drapery types favored by the 20s men are that they like no-chromed dark or blackish colors with fixed structure and partially-applied drapery on the clothes. Fifthly, it turns out that men in their 20s set a premium on design and price while they buy clothes. In addition to that, they buy clothes mainly during discount period and displayed much bigger satisfaction for the purchase on discounted price that those on normal price.
This paper examines the costumes of 18th century Joseon dynasty that appears in the writings of Lee Ok(李鈺, 1760~1815). The main characteristics that can be inferred about the clothing from his writings are as follows. 1) It suppose that the color of first grade(一品) official uniform was purple. The popular color for the bride's ceremonial dress was red. 2) It was likely that only bridesmaids or married women were allowed to wear Jokduri(ceremonial coronet). 3) White clothes were only preferred in Yeongnam-udo, whereas other regions mainly wore blue, which differs from the national preference for white clothes that was prevalent in the end of the Joseon dynasty. 4) Once cotton was harvested, it only took 5 days to convert it into cotton cloth and be sold on the market. Cotton cloth was one of the most important products during the latter half of the Joseon dynasty. It was common practice in markets to sell expensive costume materials as counterfeits or fungible goods with the intent to cheat. 5) The buddhist monk's hat is various that short cylinder form(短桶帽) and jade or gold headband button(玉圈 金圈) attached shape, etc. Consequently, Lee Ok's writing is a suitable reference for researching Joseon dynasty clothing, since it includes detailed and various descriptions of everyday clothing worn by strict noblemen, which is difficult to find elsewhere.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.18
no.1
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pp.65-80
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1994
In the 20th century, The artistic world was constantly producing new ideas and movements and the world of fashion responded to and reflected them all in greater of lesser degree. Dress designers have always been aware of what is happening In the arts and have always been able to use the discoveries and ideas of the artist to help them solve design problems and create fashion which are new, inventive and reflective of thier time. Up to the present, other researchers have investigated the connections between the fine arts and the Modern Fashion. In this respect, the objective of this research was to clarify the characteristics of painting of the Impressionism on the Modern Fashion. In order to investigate the relationship between the trend of painting and Modern Fashion. Especially, Impressionism's light and color affected both 20th's painting and other sorts of art. That is, the trend of the modern painting, Fauvism, Cubism, Surrealism, Abstract art, Abstract Expressionism, was influenced by Impressionism painting. Similarly, in the sihouette, line, color, fabric pattern of the Modem Fashion was represented characteristics of the Impressionism Painting. The fashion's Fauve, Paul Poiret was excited by the power of color in the same intense way as the 'wild beasts' of art. The color of his clothes during that period was bold and brilliant. Gabrielle Chanel simplified the shape of women's clothes to a square cardigan and rectangular skirt. This was a cubist concept. Art and fashion probably held hands closest in the 1930s, when Elsa Schiaparelli was creating clothes directly influenced by the Surrealist thinking of Salvador Dali. And she burst upon the fashion world with a sweater that had a trompe I'oeil bow. Soma Delaunay was one of great pioneers of Abstract in. She proceeded to mix strong and bright colors into her art and created the geometric and abstract patterns of the clothes and fabrics with her strong color. The influence of Abstract Expressionism was expressed the fabrics of the Modern Fashion. Some fabrics used in Modern Fashion are printed in a dripping pouring and splashing style. For the future, some futher research to investigate the art-fashion connection might involve establishing systematic classifications for silhouette, line, texture, color of the fashion. Moreover, in order to study the influence of fine art on the fashion, a broader approach might wish to analyze the relationship between painting and other plastic arts.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.30
no.3
s.151
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pp.412-424
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2006
This paper starts out with a review of the concepts of naturalism and natural clothes. Based on these concepts, the paper aims to create nature-friendly and high-value modem designs by grafting natural images from butterflies into human bodies. The images of butterflies are combined to show distinguished luxury and diversity with natural materials such as denim. As for the design technology, Adove Illustrator 10, Photoshop 7.0, and Prima Vision Textile Design System are used since they are very popular in the CAD system. The followings are the main findings of our research. Naturalism displays its objectivity based on its inherent interest in human nature and its factual description in scientific approaches with an intention to find a true meaning of human life in nature. Natural clothes can be defined as the clothes of natural silhouette which are made of pure materials in natural colors and dyes from natural motifs such as animals, plants or natural phenomena. We have realized that the visually distinguished looks of butterflies are indeed far more luxurious than those of any other insects and this visual distinction can be utilized to attract the attention from designers. Lastly, it turns out that the digital printing technique can create more variety in colors and design forms than the manual printing, thereby providing designers with more options and practicality.
Lee, Seung-Hee;Ulrich, Pamela V.;Connell, Lenda Jo
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.31
no.12
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pp.1689-1699
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2007
The purpose of the research was to explore clothing characteristics that tween girls(ages 9-14) consider important when deciding what to wear, as well as what the tween girls' mothers believe that their daughters value. The purposive sample consisted of 41 mother-daughter pairs recruited by $[TC]^2$ (Textile/Clothing Technology Corporation). Subjects were divided into younger(9-11) and older(12-14) normal- and plus-size groups based on Body Mass Index(BMI). There were significant differences between mothers and daughters in rating the importance of seven decision criteria concerning what to wear. The entire tween girls reported that clothes that fit well as the most important criteria in deciding what to wear. Clothes that were comfortable was the only criterion significantly related to the tween girls' body dissatisfaction scores. Mothers rated clothes that are the newest fashion and that friends would be wearing as being significantly more important than their daughters reported. There was a significant negative correlation between tween girls' body dissatisfaction scores and choosing clothes that are comfortable. Normal-size tweeen girls and their mothers differed significantly only when considering the newest fashion and what friends would be wearing. Plus-size tween girls and their mothers differed significantly for four criteria: fit, comfort, best looking, and what friends would be wearing. Both younger and older groups differed with mothers concerning what friends would be wearihng. Additionally, younger girls placed significantly more emphasis than their mothers fit. Older girls did not consider the newest fashion an important a decision criterion, but their mothers believed that they did.
When we design a dress, we should not only consider the esthetic sense and the relationship between movements of the body and the type of dress, but also the combination between the qualities and proper uses of textiles. recently the sale of ready-made clothes has been booming but I wonder whether they have been made in accordance with research concerning body movements and dresses. I would like to make the following observations on dresses, because I have personally suffered the inconvenience of restricted arm movements when wearing ready-made clothes. I have made four types types of foundations with muslin and Jersey, with these foundations I measured the degree of tension or how much the waist-line was drawn up then the arm was moved in increments of 45 degree angles and there by covering the entire span of vertical and horizontal movements. I have intended to experiment with sleeves of differing height in several ways. Concerning the movement factor, I have determined that with excessive activity vertical movements are twice as uncomfortable as horizontal movements. Concerning the faburic, I have found that because jersey has more elastic qualities than muslin, it has proven to be more responsive to body movements. concerning dresses, I have fund that the higher the height of the sleeves, the more uncomfortable it is to move the arms and the greater the degree to which the waist-line is drawn up. As a result this experiment I have made the following observations. Firstly, the vertical movement of the arms to a 180 degree angle has the most extreme influence on the breadth of movement of the waist-line. Secondly, because jersey permits freer body movements than muslin, it should be the preferred material for use in making sportswear. Thirdly, the formula A·H/4+3 of the sleev's cap height is suitable for making street dresses and formal wear. The formula A·H/5 and A·H/6 are properly used when making working clothes and sportswear, and the formula A·H/8 is proper for a sleeping garment and clothes for patients. Fourthly when deciding to any garments, it is important to consider the amount of arm movement anticipated and the relationship between the material and the degree to which the waistline is drawn up. In nder-blouse, when we raise our arms to the most extreme position, we should at that point still have 20∼25 cm of material remaining under the waist-line which includes the maximum of 14.1cm plus part of the blouse and breath of skirt's belt. In the case of the over blouse it is proper for us to have the length of 17∼20 cm remaining below the waist-line.
This study was to find out clothing design preferences, according to the clothing self-image of elderly women and to grasp the variety on clothing of elderly women and thereby to help in merchandise production planning and putting the brands into markets and to provide data for establishing a sales strategy a d to itemize women with the goods which can satisfy the desire and taste of consumer groups in the quality market. For this purpose , various researches as above were conducted .The object of this study was a total of 488 elderly women above full 55 from an elderly women and who lived in downtown Pusan. The data were analysed by using MANOVA, ANOVA , factors analysis and frequency analysis, and the Cronbach α was also applied . The conclusions made based on the theoretical background and the result of questionnaire surveys are as follows ; 1. The realistic self-image of clothing showed a similar pattern by age. 50's and 60's showed little difference by item but 70's was greater in variation between items compared to 60's. The response to each item was that most people answered "common" and they showed a pattern that responded low only in items of 'colorful' , individualistic', 'susceptible to fashion'. A similar pattern was shown by age band also in the ideal self-image and the response to each item appeared higher than in the realistic self-image , and also in items of 'colorful', 'individualistic ' , 'susceptible to fashion' the response appeared low and showed a unity. 2. The results of clothing design preferences examined on the self-image according to age are as follows ; 1) Fro jacket in the realistic self-image , 50's and 60's preferred 'tailed collar' , 'set-in sleeve', 'hips long' and 'plain jacket' and 70's agreed to the design preferences in the items except 'open collar' and also in the idealistic self-image , the degree of preference was same. 2) For skirt in the realistic self-image , 50's and 60's preferred 'tight skirt', 'normal length' , 'plain skirt' and it was appeared that 70's preferred 'pleat skirt' , 'medium length' , 'plain skirt'. Also in the idealistic self-image , the degree of preference was same. 3) For blouse in the realistic self-image, 50's preferred 'open collar', 'round neck line' , 'long set-in sleeve' , 'plain separation belt', 'open front', 'zipper' ad 60's agreed to the favorite designs with 50's except puff sleeve, and 70's appeared to prefer fastening buttons without belt. In the designs preferred in the idealistic self-image, 50's agreed with 50's of the realistic self-image and for 60's , the designs except puff sleeve type and no belt type agreed to 50's and 70's except puff sleeve agreed with 70's of the realistic self-image in their design preferences.
Purpose: Contaminated clothes and bedclothes of patients by mouth or with excrement are produced after Radioisotope $^{131}I$ treatment. In this paper, patient's clothes and bedclothes contaminated by radioactivity measured and radioactive waste wish to calculate optimum storage period. Material and Methods: The whole area of patients' clothes and bedclothes measured 70 patients, 12 males and 58 females, who had radioisotope $^{131}I$ therapy between August 2005 and February 2006. Assuming contamination is evenly distributed, the radioscope used to measure up to social toleration level at 7 day intervals. Results: Each optimum storage period of control group of 60 case and non control group of 10 case were average $44{\pm}16$ days and $32{\pm}13$ days. Decontamination effect of surface contamination for radioactive waste was average $83.66{\pm}15.15%$. Conclusion: It is important that classify radioactive waste according to difference of surface contamination. Result of this research, handling radioactive waste in optimum storage period may be useful.
In this study the phenomenon of commodity substitution of housework is approach in the contexts of economic system, patriachal family system and housework-related human resources. the objectives of this study are as follows: (1) To measure the level of commodity substitution of housework in large cities. (2)To investigate the factors influencing commodity substitution of housework. The samples were composed of 982 housewives dwelling in 6 large cities including Seoul. The statistics used for data analysis were frequency distribution, percetile. multiple regression analysis. The major findings are the following; (1) When the housework was divided into two subdomains , in the domain of food the purchase level was for below average while in the domain of clothes, the level was quite higher than average. This result hows that commodity substitution has become more common in the domain of clothes by mass production of clothes on a commercial scale. (2) the level of commodity substitution of housework was influenced by the family attribute variables such as housewife's age, family income. housewife's education, family types, housewife's brought-up regions, presence of sewing machine, employment status of housewife, by one patriarchal norm variable such as home-orientedness, and by tow human resource variables such as importance of housework and household tasks performance competnecy. Among variables house wife's age was the most influential one and such variables as family income, housewife's education, household task performance competency, importance of housework, and home-orientedness were also important. Considering that the influence of home-orientedness demonstrates the importance of patriarchy and that importance of housework and that performance competency also are determined by the patriarchal variables such as sex-role attitude and home-orientedness, we can conclude that Hartmann's theoretical approach with which the changes of housework were explained in the two contexts of economic system and family system is applied to the changes of housework in Korea.
The purpose of this study is to analyze types of roles and fashion of the Chinese first ladies and provide basic data for fashion image-making of first ladies. As for the research methods, the concepts, role types, and fashion of the first ladies were considered by referring to the precedent studies and relevant literature. Then, the fashion images according to role types were analyzed by collecting the photos of Chinese first ladies from the period of the Republic of China until today. The results were as follows: First, when the roles of Chinese first ladies were categorized based on ceremonial, political, and policy roles, Zhuo Lin and Wang Yeping played a ceremonial role; Wang Guangmei, Liu Yongqing, and Peng Liyuan played a political role; and Soong Qingling, Soong Mayling, and Jiang Qing played a policy role while they were first ladies. While the first ladies of the Republic of China often wore classic Chinese styles like traditional qipao as well as western clothes which contained a western influence, the first ladies of the People's Republic of China wore more colorful clothes and more accessories in the later period, and also often wore clothes that combined traditional and western elements. Second, first ladies who played a ceremonial role showed mannish and classic images; those who played a political role showed elegant, classic, and diverse images according to T.P.O; and those who played a policy role showed feminine, modern, and mannish images. Fashion images of the first ladies varied according to the level of political involvement, the sociocultural background of China at that time, and their personality and preference.
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