• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.48
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• pp.197-216
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• 1999

This study reflects the aim of analyzing the formality and symbolism of the Chanel suit. Chanel had designed jersey and tweed cardigan suits in the 1910s and 1920s while her suits of the 1930s were crisply fitted. The suits of the 1950s and 960s while were comfortable and slightly boxy marked a significant step forword. Lagerfeld's mission at Chanel was to tranmute the basic elements of the Chanel style and make them contemporary. He has also introduced the contemporay wide shoulders and short tihht skirt In place of sensible knee-length skirts he offered hemlines that either grazed the ankles or exposed most of the thighs. Besides her very influential jersey and tweed cardigan suit Chanel continued to assert her considerable strength with materials often making her suits in very delicate feminizing fabrics. in place of the classic boxy tweed jacket Lagerfeld introduced jackets made of terrycloth denim and stretch fabric Many of Chanel's suits show a stylish sense of colour that would have made artist envious. Chanel and Lagerfeld chose variety of colours from beige and grey and black to blue green cerisen and red for her suits. They was completely in tune with the twentieth century understanding the changes in lifestyles of woman and also understanding how her clothes should cater to them Thus the Chanel suit is more a way of life than just a fashion and is synonymous with wealth and aritocracy. It is one of the most popular status-symbol styles of the 20th century.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.10
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• pp.1390-1400
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to categorize the type of fabrics and to analyze weaving method on the silk fabrics from ewongun's Tomb. The conclusions of this research are as follow. 1) Among the 26pieces of excavated clothes,98% of them were made of silk fabric and among them 84% used high-quality non-patterned silk I would assume, therefore, that the tomb was owned by a person who had a dignified yet humble tagte of higher society. 2) The weaving methods of textiles are plain weave, twil1 weave, satin weave. Plain weave includes spun silk tabby, fine filament silk tabby, raw silk tabby, thine silk tabby, damask on tabby, twill weave includes twill damask with different directions, satin weave includes non-patterned satin damask,5-end satin damask(4/1 warp faces ground, l/4 wok faced pattern). As the result of literature survey, I settled the names of textiles as follows; tabby was called Myunju, Saeju, Saengcho, and Sookcho according to the kind and density of silk threads used; Damask on tabby was ca]led Hwamunju) Twill damask was called Hwmunnung Satin damask was ca]led Hwamundan if they bear patterns by themselves or Mumundan if they don't have any patterns on them.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.6
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• pp.850-860
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• 2000

The purposes of this study was to provide the fundamental data for children's wear standardizing sizes of ready-made clothes by analyzing the elementary school girls’somatotype. The subjects for anthropometic measurements were 434 elementary school girls’by age groups < ‘(1st age(1ㆍ2 grade)’,‘2nd age(3ㆍ4 grade)’, and 3rd(5ㆍ6 grade)’ > living in Pusan. According to the analysis of upper bodies by the age groups 1. According to the analysis to draw somatometric factors by the age groups, sevenㆍseven and six actors in 1st . End and 3rd age groups are obtained from measurements of upper body. 2. The 1st & 2nd age groups: As the result of factor analysis for the factor, the first and second factors which explain more than 70% of the whole variance represent“horizontal size”and“vertical size”, which characterize more aspects of the body shape of girls at elementary school ages. 3. The 3rd age groups: As the result of factor analysis for the factor, 6 factor which explain 74.39% of variance were extracted form anthropometic data. The first factor represented the items of circumference, breadth and depth related to“sectional size the front length of the upper body”, The second factor described the items of "heights & the back length of the upper body”.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.9_10 s.157
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• pp.1476-1484
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• 2006

This study is on the esthetic characteristics of Tuxedo-Look in the modern women fashion from 1990s to the present. It could contribute to understand the aspects and the sense of beauty of the modern fashion. This study is performed by reviewing the precedent studies, related literature and deploying fashion portfolios, domestic and international fashion magazines for the exploratory study. The results of the study are the following. First, Tuxedo-Look expresses the androgenous image which weakens the superficial message of masculinity or femininity and produces the unified image of men and women. Tuxedo-Look, a symbolic male dress item, is brought in the women clothes and it is recreated by design modification, new wearing style, and producing effects. Second, Tuxedo-Look emphasizes femininity by using a exposure and body line stressed design and matching the women dress items with various materials and colors or tuxedo. Third, Tuxedo-Look suggests a dismantling point of view such as exaggeration, distortion, secession, and breaking from the convention. Tuxedo-Look expresses uncertain value by breaking up the symbolic valueby coordinating with casual items and denies formal construct of tuxedo such as perfect balance, symmetrical silhouette, formality, totality.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.8
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• pp.883-891
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• 2003

In this study, a change of hand of fabrics dyed with persimmon juice was measured using Kawabata Evaluation System. Using various cotton fabrics, linen fabric and silk fabric used frequently for persimmon juice dyeing, we examined the changes of physical properties and hand according to persimmon juice dyeing and washing. The dynamic characteristics of hand were measured tensile, shear, bending, compression, surface properties, thickness and weight. Linearity of load-extention and tensile resilience were increased in all kinds of fabrics after dyeing. Tensile energy decreased in cotton fabric 2(gauze), cotton fabric 3(muslin) and linen fabric. Shear stiffness and hysteresis of shear increased in most of fabrics. Bending rigidity of the bending property and hysteresis of bending, linearity of compression of the compression property, compression energy and compression resilience increased in all kinds of fabrics after dyeing. Thickness and weight increased much in all kinds of fabrics after dyeing. In the primary hand value, stiffness and anti-drape stiffness increased in all kind of fabrics after dyeing. The fullness and softness, crispness, scrooping feeling and flexibility with soft feeling decreased. As the stiffness after persimmons dyeing increased, it was suitable for clothes material of summer.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.101-111
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• 2015

This study aims to analyze the current state of menswear in the domestic fashion market and the trend of new menswear brands. In addition to this, a comparative analysis of domestic and foreign menswear brands will be done to provide baseline data for the domestic brands in regards to strategic direction in the coming years. The study used reports published by Samsungdesign.net, which provided trends of 110 new brands from 2005 to 2014, in order to analyze the trends of new menswear brands launched during that period. Menswear brand information in the Korean Fashion Brand Annual, of which there were 168, were utilized to research the current state of the brands in the domestic market. As a results, menswear is expected to become more sensitive to trends and designs thanks to steady launchings of menswear brands within character casual zoning for the past 10 years and active brand launchings within contemporary zoning in the last 5 years. Also, as more brands are targeting men in their 20's as their main customers, it suggests that menswear brands are striving for a younger mindset. In terms of pricing, prestige and budget line launchings they seem to be dwindling, while bridge brands are increasing. This shows that customers are demanding luxury items at a reasonable price. Since there are higher ratio of foreign brands in dress shirts and contemporary zoning, domestic brands need to develop and produce more high quality clothes within these zonings.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.911-923
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• 1995

The zone of expansion and contraction of arm surfaces was analyzed, the correlation between arm surface changes was studied, and ergonomic sleeve designs were presented in which the consideration of body surface changes is emphasized. Experiments were carried out which include 43 upper extremity segments, 21 motions and 35 female subjects. The major conclusions of the study are as follows : 1. As a sleeve drafting method, detailed measures should be applied on the base of the sensitivity of body surface changes. The range of arm surface changes can be divided into three zones : concentrated expansion zone, zone of little change, and contraction part. The maximum expansion zone was the upper part of elbow. 2. The correlations were higher in lengths than in circumferences. Arm lengths were mainly correlated with upper arms. The more detailed the arm surface was, the lower the correlations between surface changes were. So there was not a lot of relation between segment changes. Tendency of body surface changes depended on the anatomical structure of the upper extremity and the movements of arm muscles. 3. As an application of measures and ease, ergonomic sleeve designs weve presented in which arm surface changes were considered. Ergonomic sleeve designs are recommended for working clothes and sports wear.

• Journal of Korean Society of Water and Wastewater
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• v.28 no.3
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• pp.339-344
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• 2014

The predictive capacity of wastewater treatment facility in the industrial park was estimated by the traditional method and on-the-spot survey such as certification of wastewater report and the invoices of water supply and ground water supply. The ratios of a converted wastewater to supplied industrial water between traditional method and on-the-spot survey in the estimation methods were different. By using traditional method, the business type of clothes, accessary and fur production had 77.18 % of waste ratio of wastewater and $10.72m^3/day{\cdot}1000m^2$ unit mass of wastewater as the highest among 9 business types. With the respect to the on-the-spot survey, food manufacturing business type had 75 % of waste ratio of wastewater and $8.35m^3/day{\cdot}1000m^2$ unit mass of wastewater as the highest values. The amount of wastewater from on-the-spot survey method was 541 $m^3/day$ less than one from traditional method.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.1-13
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is followings. First, We analyze the times from initial works to present ones. Second, Detail element of Modificational process of Hanbok design with a expession element of clothes. Third, We intend to liquidate characteristics of External beauty and internal values for Lee Young Hee' s works, besides we expect that Hanbok is harmonized with modern times, is globalized, and is universalized. It is research method and region that we observe characteristics of korean beauty with theoretical background and we examinate formalism and contents of korean style of dresses through analysis of data. So, we insinuate a standard for analysis of beauty. Analysis data is her possession and slide from 1980 to ‘2000 A/W’ and ninety collection magazine data. We analyze beautiful characteristics along the expression elements of dresses and every year. So, We can find beautiful characteristics of works for expression elements of dresses, every year, and physical beauty and internal value of dresses. As a result, initial works have succession and development of tradition. But through second & third period, inclined physical beauty have duplicated aspects with closing and opening characteristics. So, She has expressed internal beauty.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.123-133
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• 2004

This research analyzed the role of sex and clothing in the seventh version of elementary school textbook-Korean. Analyzed materials were described contents and illustrations or pictures in textbooks - Korean of the wholeclasses with content analysis. The followings are the summary of the results. First, the proportion of males to females is 55.6%. Second, the proportion of female's skirts to trousers is 80.6%. Third, the proportion of female's long hair style to short hair style is 61. 9%. Fourth, mother and female-teacher clothes mainly show skirts. Fifth the results compare father's working with mather's in home: fathers mainly spend the time with family and mothers mainly cook and play roles of housewife. As it was shown above, the ratio of sex in textbooks of elementary school has a tendency to be unfair. Clothing and apperearances of female don't also reflect the present actual tendency. Contents of textbooks are apt to emphasize on the traditional feminine attitudes.