• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.3 s.112
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• pp.37-52
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• 2007

Dan(緞) is satin damask. It was a newly popularized fabrics in the Joseon Period and is one of main traditional fabrics at present. The purpose of this study is to suggest a theoretical basis to name Dan(緞) remains properly by comparing and analyzing the name, pattern, usage, feature, length and width, value of Dan(緞) recorded on documents made at the end of the Joseon Period. The results of this study are as follows. 1. The kinds of Dan(緞) recorded on documents made at the end of the Joseon Period are various. Among fabrics named Dan(緞), were not only silk fabrics but also cotton fabrics, woolen fabrics, mixture fabrics with silk and cotton, and mixture fabrics with cotton and wool. 2. Some newly revealed patterns in the case of Dan(緞) are as follows. The shape of Byeolmun(別紋) is assumed to have originated from that of character symbolizing the Royal Family and developed into a variety of circular ones of dragon, phoenix, flower, or character. O-ho-ro-mun(五葫蘆紋) was five-gourd-shaped patterns that form a circle, turning their narrow mouth to the center, and vines between each two gourds. 3. When considering the usages of Dan(緞), Dan(緞) was used for various detailed usages according to their kinds. But it was't mostly used for underwear. 4. Features have been examined are Godan(庫緞), Mobondan(模本緞), Handan(漢緞), Daedan(大緞), Yangdan(洋緞), Waedan(倭緞), and Geumdan(錦緞). 5. The length and the width of 1 Pil(疋) silk fabrics are various. It is normal for the width being different, but for 1 Pil(疋)'s length being different is very unusual. The width of Dan (緞) was about 47-76.20cm, it was wider than Ju(紬), Cho, Gyeon(絹), Sa(紗), Ra(羅) and Reung(綾). 6. As for the value of each fabric per $10,000cm^2$, Dan(緞) was the most valuable silks at that time. Among them the most valuable Dan(緞) was Udan(羽緞).

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.260-269
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• 2012

The aim of this study was to develop higher-value added dyeing materials with the fermentation-dyeing -mordanting system using only the natural ingredients by integrating traditional fermentation techniques with traditional dyeing technique. Nuruk, which is used mainly to ferment traditional foods, was used as a fermenting agent to ferment 5 different types of materials. Acidic burnt alum and alkaline calcium hydroxide were used as natural mordants. The dyeability checked after fermentation showed that both cotton and silk mordanted with Gardenia jasminoides did not show notable changes, and 10 days of fermentation was found to be appropriate. Sophora japonica L. performed better on cotton materials mordanted with slaked lime, and alkaline mordants were found to be more effective than acidic ones. With Rheum coreanum, a fermentation period of more than 24 days ($5^{th}$ fermentation) worked best on cotton material, showing a 5 fold increase in the K/S value after the $5^{th}$ slaked lime fermentation than with no fermentation. Rhus javanica L. was found to increase the color fastness to gentle washing and the fastness to light was found to possess 4 means that natural dyed fabric have the highest level of durability, the grade 1 the lowest level of fastness.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Food Culture
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.155-172
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• 1997

In the age of the three Kingdoms, Silla, Kokuryu and Baekjae were built Confucian Shrine (Kukhak or Taehak) after BC 2-4 century Confucism propagated from China. It means 1600years' history of Saugc-Zeuhn Rites of an Imperial ceremony to honor Confucius in Korean peninsula. For Chosen dynasty age passed by Koryo dynasty carried out mainly Confucian policy, in Sungkyunhwan of Mun-Hyo (Confucian Shrine) traditional rites in memory of Confucius are observed twice a year in spring and autumn for 600 years of the 112 memories Tablets to Confucius and the other famous Confucius scholars. (his disciples and Korean Confucian scholars) Wine, food, and silk are offered, and incense burnt before the tablets of confucius and the other scholars while traditional music is played and ceremonial dances performed. Traditional rites are observed primarily for the purpose of reminding students and other attendats of the teaching of Confucius. It is to have got it firmly into young Korean head that humanim, family, courtesy, order modesty and practical morality are more important than any thing else. And also now we need to reappraise, fundermently recognize rehabilitute and transmission the traditional foods Korean sacrifical rituals culture by Korean characteristics culture, Through the historical background we can recognize how much the Confucius thought and education effect deeply Korean sociaty even upto now to Korean popular life. At the same time confucism became fixed to Korean traditional thought and culture. Specially Sauge-Zeuhm Rites is based on Korean sacrificial rituals culture and Korean dietary life generally through this study we can see and presume the changes and transmmision of foods and cookey methods from BC ages.

• The Korean Fashion and Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.5
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• pp.730-738
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• 2012

This study proposes a process to design and analyze stage costumes by design elements for the costumes of the Korean traditional music cantata 'I Will Rise'. This study states fundamental references to make costumes of similar performances in the future and develop costume designs based on the format of a play. The findings are as follows. First, the costume production process of 'I Will Rise' is conducted in the order of directing intentions and script analysis, costume design, miniature production, costume production, costume modification, run, and post-production. Second, an overall Korean silhouette is expressed through the creation of costumes based on the construction of Korean traditional clothing (hanbok); however, from a detail perspective, a modernistic sensitivity is expressed through the use of modern elements (wing shoulders attached to shoulders, narrow ribbons made in a string form, and wristlets and belts) not found in hanboks. Third, tie-dying is applied to the costume colors of each character to highlight the traditional and unique feeling of dye and symbolic colors that effectively represent each role used to communicate the storyline and character emotions to the audience. Fourth, materials for costumes are cotton and linen (frequently used to create the texture of a Hanbok) as the costume of each character is emphasized to the use of additional and detailed materials such as artificial leather, hemp, and silk.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.7
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• pp.167-177
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• 2002

This study revolves around the costume of the Naadam festival worn in the opening ceremony. during competition and the costume of the public. their purpose are two fold. First they are to be the main reference for the diverse Mongolian costumes that have been researched. Secondly, they will help us understand better the culture that revolves around Mongolian costumes. The results are as follows : 1) The opening ceremony costume, The opening ceremony starts with a procession of soldiers with 9 flags. The flags are made from the hairs of white horses and they signify peace and tranquility, ever since the beginning of Chinggis Khans time. The costumes resemble a European military uniform 2) The costumes for competition. $\circled1$ Wrestlers' costume comprises of a jacket with sleeves but no front and shorty shorts of red or blue colored silk, a traditional hat and traditional boots. $\circled2$ Archers' costume comprises of their traditional costume, deel, hat and boots. $\circled3$ Horse riders who are usually children wear a comfortable and simple jacket and pants. 3) The costume of the public : The general public that attended the festival were dressed in a western fashion but differ according to different age groups $\circled1$ The costumes of the younger Mongolian : The majority of the men wore traditional costumes that were appropriate to the festival, the women did not as they were more prone to the influence of fads of western cultures and dressed in a more daring fashion. In addition. the children also dressed in a more modem western fashion. $\circled2$ The costumes of the elderly Mongolian : The elderly, oblivious of whatever season it was, were dressed in a more traditional fashion which is the deel.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.17-26
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• 2005

In this research, in order to find out the effect of the area ratio in the harmonic sense assessment of the coloration of Korean clothes, the coloration of a Korean jacket and a skirt was compounded with a similar coloration and a contrast coloration. The respondents were asked to evaluate 16 stimuli of the traditional Korean skirt and jacket with the coloration of the Korean jacket/ skirt, the skirt/ Korean jacket was separately compounded to be 4 tones such as vivid, light, dull, dark. The subjects were 44 female undergraduate students. The results of each can be summerized as follows. As to similar coloration, the korean yellow jacket and red skirt, Korean students feel vivid and dull tone was harmonious, and American students feel vivid, light, and dark tone were harmonious coloration. In inversed case, red korean jacket and yellow skirt, both countries' students recognized that the vivid tone was harmonious. Korean students gave higher points to korean traditional dress in similar coloration such as yellow korean jacket which was small area and red skirt which was large area coloration than inversed color area ratio which red korean jacket and yellow skirt. As to contrast coloration, the korean green jacket and red skirt, Korean students feel vivid tone was harmonious, and American students feel vivid, dark tone were harmonious coloration. In inversed case, red korean jacket and green skirt were recognized that any tone was not harmonious for both countries' students. Both countries of student showed the culture gap. Compared with American students, Korean students were familiar with korean dress's traditional coloration, as a result familiar coloration was recognized harmonious coloration.

• Child Studies in Asia-Pacific Contexts
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.31-46
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• 2016

This study explored types and characteristics of South Korean crossover picturebooks that are enjoyed across generations. Participants included three publishers, six critics, six illustrators and three picturebook researchers, and focused on 92 South Korean recommended picturebooks published from 1995 to 2014 as the research material for this study. The majority of Korean crossover picturebook type was story, followed by information and art. There were few wordless books. Common themes of the story picturebooks were contemplation, traditional culture, social changes (such as immigration and redevelopment), reminiscence, social relations, loss and death, family problems, and social incidents. Classic essays and novels were revised for picturebooks as were famous poems originally written for grown-ups. Informational books were about traditions in music, architecture, furniture and special occasions like wedding and ceremonies. The style of the drawings were precise and realistic. Some drawings were done by brush and Chinese ink on hanji (traditional Korean paper) or silk. Some books featured Korean calligraphy as well, enabling adult readers to also appreciate the beauty and delicacy of the books. Art books and wordless books were quite rare and exhibited a playful tone. Adults alone were not presumed to be the primary reading audience of the picture books. Implications were made for picturebook marketing in a society such as South Korea, where the elderly population is rapidly increasing. Various forms of art books and parodies were also welcome. One conclusion of the study was that more experimental and innovative works would be encouraging for the development of South Korean crossover picturebooks.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.79-93
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to analyze designs of exhibition clothing in terms of the use of Korean image, to review objectively contents about the use of traditional image, understand external elements of works, and give directions and basic data for future works. This study selected the total 250 works as the subject of this study among the collected data. This study classified and examined the use of Korean image found in exhibition clothing according to period, item, line and form, material, technique of expression and accessary between 1996 and 2004. The results of analysis are as follows (1) The most artworks were comprised in adaptation were Choson costume. (2) Most of them were clothing works for female. The item of chima were the most preferred in use. (3) The straight lines are used more frequently than curved lines. Forms of skirts were applied to those of silhouettes, H and A form were common. (4) In terms of materials, traditional materials such as silk, linen and cotton were commonly used. (5) Geometric patterns and plant pattern were found more often than others. (6) In terms of techniques of expression, patchwork was most frequent, quilting, embroidery and pleating were ranked second, third and fourth. (7) In accessaries and other item, gorom were most common and norigae were ranked second. (8) As Korean image has been expressed by fine parts of traditional costumes, the traditional living item, and local symbols, the range of works are becoming wider.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.34
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• pp.135-150
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• 1997

The purpose of this study was to inves-tigate the economic performance of the textile industry for the Korean traditional clothes. The content of this paper had two pars; The first part was for the macroeconomic aspects such as location production employments and the produc-tion facilities of the textile industries. The second part was for the microeconomic aspects such as business type branding method fabric type R&D efforts sourc-ing and the distributional channel The major results were as follows: 1.) Most textile firms for the korean traditional clothes were located in Gongju for man-made fibers and in Jinju for silk fabrics. 2) The size of the textile industry in terms of the number of business produc-tion amount the number of employee de-creased during 1994 and 1995 due to the decreasing demand. 3) Over the half of the textile firms produced raw fabric products while only 20% of them were involved in additional dyeing and /or printing finish which re-sulted in low value added production 4) The R&D effort of the textile indus-try for the Korean traditional clothes was very low due to the market uncertainty lack of technological knowledge and most of all small size of the firms 5) Most raw materials for the textile in -dustry were imported with high(25%) tariff rates resulting in price increase and thus low competitiveness in the market. 6) The textile producers sole about the 70% of their products to the wholesalers while selling the rest to the retailers di-rectly. This showed the dual structure of the distribution channel in the textile products. These results suggested some implica-tions for the firms the policy makers and the researchers. The firms should develop new and improved products to increase and create consumer demand by intensive R&D efforts. The government policy ma-kers should give financial supports the firms with R&D investment and legal help such as lowing tariff rate for the raw ma-terials. The researchers from the academy could help the textile industry with the advanced technological knowledge and up-date information for the consumer fashion demand.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.43 no.6
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• pp.891-909
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• 2019

This study uses a documentary survey, field survey and textile's characteristics to understand the history of the Punggi Viscose Rayon. Punggi's textile industry grew as people migrated from Pyeongan Province in the 1900s. Little is known regarding early production conditions, but documents show cottage industries in the 1940s made union cloth using silk and rayon. The Punggi weaving industry peaked after the Korean War and declined in the late 1950s. Punggi rayon at that time was mainly used for lingerie or lining, with miliary or polka dot patterns. The industry regained momentum when the power loom was introduced in the 1960s. Manufacturers also started weaving union cloth with synthetic fibers and rayon. In the 1990s, jacquard looms enabled the weaving of elaborately colored and patterned textiles for outer fabric that made Punggi rayon famous. Most Punggi rayon looms have developed in the order of manual handlooms, semiautomatic looms, Jokdapgi, to power looms. Looms equipped with dobbies or jacquard devices also changed from wooden dobby looms to wooden jacquard looms and then to iron jacquard looms. Punggi Rayon currently has its own trademark and tag, but lacks specific regulations on the blending of fibers.