• 복식
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• 제63권1호
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• pp.42-55
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• 2013

As performing arts including operas are getting popular these days, the importance of stage costumes is strengthened. Stage costume is one of the artistic requisites for opera performance, it plays an important role in describing the play's situation, the director's style and the person's character. Nevertheless the study regarding the opera's costumes is not active, especially the comparative study on the same opera's costumes performed by different opera companies have hardly been made. Therefore this study compared 5 Manon Lescaut opera performances: the Metropolitan Opera(1980), the Flemish Opera(1991), the Metropolitan Opera(2008), the Seoul Metropolitan Opera(2010) and the Vienna State Opera(2010) and made clear the difference between the four. From this study, we can get the following conclusions. First, the Metropolitan Opera's costumes in 1980 act and in 2008 act ascertained Rococo dressing. Because the costume designer for both acts was the same person, the general costume styles of the two acts are similar. Second, as for the Flemish Opera and Seoul Metropolitan Opera, there was a significant drop in fancy details and trimmings in the costumes. But the costumes made strong impressions dues to its color and luminosity contrast. Third, Vienna State Opera costumes had the boldest designs and it reflected modern designs as well. This study is meaningful in that it is based on the comparison study on the same opera stage costumes designed by different directors. Afterward this study is expected to contribute toward study on opera stage costumes and stage costume's development.

• 러시아어문학연구논집
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• 제67호
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• pp.197-217
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• 2019

Mikhail Glinka, who had a profound influence on Russian nationalist music, created two forms of Russian classical opera. The first form is the first work of Glinka as a history-hero opera, the first opera of the Americas, "Ivan Susanin". The mythology-fairytale opera form, which Glinka's opera "Ruslan and Ludmila" left the first footsteps, is the second form of Russian classical opera. Dargomyzhsky's(Alexander Sergeyevich) opera "Rusalka" is not only a work linking the above-mentioned fairy-opera forms, but also a "life style psychology opera" which was first attempted in Russian music history. Dargomyzhsky's opera "Rusalka" is based on the Luisalka, the spirit of water delivered from the Slavic mythology, and the poems of Pushkin created on the basis of it. However, the script of this opera is written directly, and Dargomyzhsky's opera "Rusalka" is shaped in opera in deformed shape without replicating the spirit of mythical water perfectly. In Slavic mythology, the common denominator of the form of the subordinate"Rusalka" refers to the dead soul of a woman found in forests, near lakes or rivers, and has suffered from unfortunate events by alive life power, absurd society or bad men Or an innocent woman who has been betrayed by love, can not go to hell after the suicide and tempt men to death. However, the shape of "Rusalka" appearing in Dargomyzhsky opera "Rusalka" is different from that of Rusalka in the Slavic mythology (there are similarities and differences). These specificities are listed below: First, the different and the Dargomyzhsky's opera "Rusalka" i reveals all the mysteries, universality and folkness which are in the story of the Rusalka 's spirit in myth. Second, "Rusalka" in the East Slavic mythology is the existence of both good and evil forms. In the Dargomisshu opera opera "Rusalka", Rusalka is an evil spirit, a vengeful incarnation who takes a prince into the water and kills him with the evil water spirit. Third, "Rusalka" in Slavic mythology is a young virgin who has fallen into the water because of her tragic love. However, Natasha, a female actor of Dargomyzhsky's opera "Rusalka", is a person who drowns while pregnant. Fourth, "Rusalka" in the East Slavic mythology is 'an ominous being who dances.' The "Rusalka" come out of the water and wait for the night on cannabis or birch branches, and when the moon comes up, many people gather together to dance. Fifth, "Rusalka" in the East Slavic mythology tempts men to death without help of the person who had a family relationship before becoming a spirit. When I compare this with the contents of the East Slavic mythology, it is transformed from the myth to the help of Rusalka from the Birch, and from the opera to the father of Natasha. Fifth, "Rusalka" in the East Slavic mythology is a virgin, but in Dargomyzhsky's opera"Rusalka", Rusalka is an evil spirits of revenge with a daughter.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제11권2호
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• pp.42-57
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• 2007

The purpose of study is to investigate costumes of the heroin in the opera which has performed by 4 different directors ; Metropolitan opera by Franco Zeffirelli, San francisco opera by David Hockney, Salzburg Festival by David Pountney and Korea Arena opera by Zhang Yi-mou. In these performances, Her costumes normally expressed the change of her characteristic from a haughty and cruel lady to a lady who realized a true love. The former is wearing exaggerative and splendid styles while the latter is wearing simple and ladylike styles. Costume styles of each performance are like this. In the Metropolitan's opera, costumes are very splendid using brilliant fabrics and accessories of Chinese peking opera. Their costume styles are influenced by Chinese 'Pao' which is similar to Ming Style. In the San Francisco's opera, costumes are very simple, specially pattern of dragons. This silhouette mixed Chinese style and western dress. In the Salzburg Festival's opera, costumes are based on simple western style but they expressed her mind effectively like a extremely long skirt which means her haughtiness. In the Seoul arena opera, costumes are based on Ming styles using silk which embroidered dragons, phoenixes and flowers.

• 복식
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• 제59권2호
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• pp.143-153
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to provide color information in order to planning and merchandising in china fashion through the color of Beijing opera. In objective study, we collect total 302 Beijing opera images. The collecting method of source data is to extract digital color data by color picker. We transform RGB color data to H V/C, CIE L*a*b and analyze the attributes of color and tone, three-dimensional analysis. The results of this study are as follows : 1. The color distrbution of Beijing opera is R(26.9%)>YR(18.2%)>PB(11.6%)>Y(9.6%). Traditional preference color, red is most popular color as 26.7%:, the practice of vivid tone red is numerous. 2. The tone distribution of Beijing opera costume is P(16%)>It(13.9%)>d(11%)>5(9.6%)>4kg (8.2%)>b(7.1%:). The value o# Beijing opera costume distribute medium and medium-high and the chroma of those distributes low. 3. High chroma yellow is restrictive color as the symbol of emperor in china but medium-low chroma yellow is very frequently used. 4. Blue is often used in china costume. Especially in Beijing opera costume blue is symbol of bravery, dignity, cruel character 5. White in Beijing opera costume is much used for symbol of righteous loyalist. Black is less used than white in Beijing opera costume and black is authority color for symbol of the prime minister.

• 한국실내디자인학회논문집
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• 제18권1호
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• pp.3-10
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• 2009

The relationship between light and space is fundamental In an opera stage design. In contemporary stage design, light, color and space themselves became one of tile most important elements to express and symbolize the content of the opera. This was very different compared to the primitive and medieval opera stage design in the past. The designer tried to represent the same periodical background of the opera with exact replica of the buildings as well as costumes. In comtemporary performance art, light became one the most important aspects in design. Max Keller is one of the living pioneers in stage lighting design. This thesis that is based on his lighting experiments and projects attempts to examine how contemporary stage design and light are applied and what kind of characteristics they have. One of the Wagner's opera, "Tristan und Isolde" was selected to be further analyzed. Three different "Tristan und Isolde" opera stage designs were carefully studied in terms of how three designs are differently constructed for specific same contents of the opera. This sort of comparison study is crucial when there is a strict parameter that is the opera itself. It was found that three opera stages have very different stage designs and unique ways of expressing the opera flow and contents. However, in some parts, very similar lightings were used. This sort of multi-disciplinary study can be helpful to re-think the interior environment by applying light as a fundamental medium.

• 복식
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• 제38권
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• pp.83-100
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• 1998

The purpose of this study is to figure out how stage costume of Peking Opera communicates what the character wants to inform to spectator. The stage costume means the clothing, shoes, headdress, accessory that the cast is worn for communicating personality of character. Stage costume not only reveals the character of new spirit who the director and the work is like to create, but also makes the style of play harmonizing with the atmosphere of the work. So, the stage costume in the play is a sort of symbol system that forms the depth of play. The stage costume of Peking Opera was formed on the basis of the Chinese traditional stage costume in the Qing period, however the style of stage costume was beautified the costume of Ming period and here contained the factors of successive costumes. But the stage costume of Peking Opera don't have the same rank system with real history costume and don't have demarcation according to period and history. Only it is that transformed and created the real history costume with Chinese fine view and made how they wear Chinese fine view and made how they wear the costume according to position, age, personality of character in the play. In the stage costume of Peking Opera, the color is cultural language that director can communicate to spectators and can inform spectator of sex, age, personality, position of the character. The color of the stage costume of Peking Opera reflects the principles of Yin and Yang and the five elements of the Chinese cosmogony. The pattern of decoration also makes the personality and characteristic of the character. The dragon pattern symbols the authority and majesty, so only the character of high position can use it. The pattern of tiger and leopard symbols bravery, so the military officer can use it. Civil officer decorates with the pattern of Japanese apricot, orchid, chrysanthmum, bamboo that symbols integrity and honor. The stage costume of Peking Opera communicates the identity of character with the special form of costume. Kanjien is a costume of the young priestess, Houyi is the Sunwukong'costume. Chayi is a costume of boatman. Lingzi, Sweixiu, Kaoqi is the props for the foramtive effect of stage costume, also they play an important part in expressing the emotion situation. In the result of study, we could know that the form, color, pattern of the stage costume and props of Peking Opera play important parts in communicating informations that let spectator can understand the play. So, the stage costume of Peking Opera is an‘picturizing costume’that the form, color, pattern of the stage costume is a sort of symbol system. It makes spectator feels actually the viewing Peking Opera.

• 복식
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• 제52권8호
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• pp.1-13
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• 2002

The object of this research is to know the characteristics of design for stage costume design through experiencing production of costume design of Mascani's opera "Cavalleria Rusticana" and to know the effect of stage costume at real performance. Background of times and characteristics were reviewed by analyzing opera. And reference regarding Mascani's opera "Cavalleria Rusticana" and script, and image data analysis and interview with director were also done. Ethnic costume in Sicily in southern Italy was reviewed at conception step. and design was embodied by analyzing character of each person based on this analysis. Form of character. motion and vocalization were considered at actual production step, and stage effect was analysed by considering lighting, stage background, and combination of color on costume between characters through real performance. The above conclusion could present professional and systematic methodology in designing opera and other stage costumes. And this research can also be a contribution in these days when interest for theatrical art. along with importance of stage costume, plays a key role in modern art. role in modern art.

• 복식
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• 제59권1호
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• pp.29-46
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• 2009

Aiming at finding symbolistic meanings and characteristics of makeup in Chinese Beijing Opera("BO"), this study formulated a theoretical framework mainly from literature in the Symbolism and symbolistically analyzed materials related to BO makeup from literature, internet web pages and illustrated news concerning performing arts. Main objects to analyze are the characteristics of four main roles in BO and the patterns, symbols, ornaments and traditions of Beijing Opera facial makeup("BOFM"). Four main roles are Sheng, Tan, Ching and Chou, categorized by gender, age, social position and personality. The result to analyze symbolistic meanings and characteristics of makeups for the roles in BO are as follows: the patterns and colors of BOFM function as explanations to help audiences understand each role's personality and dramatic situations as well as provide hints about the development and ending of an opera: that is, BO makeup is a communicative intermediary between audiences and actors in BO. It tends to follow the stereotypes, which conventionally dress and exaggerate the characters of roles, and copy the traditional Chinese perception about colors. Thus, by the metaphysical and typical expression of BOFM, Chinese people have not been pursuing the realism in opera but applying BO makeup to a mutual communication method between audiences and performing artists as to share their collective cultural heritages and spirits. Threfore, BO makeup has been an interacting language between the two entities and grown within the history of BO as a beauty art to highlight a BO by its unique systems, ornaments and beauty.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제12권4호
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• pp.599-613
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• 2004

The purpose for this paper is to find the common characteristics of Korean traditional clothing, which is largely affected by Chinese arts and culture. There are many different theories about Faking Opera＇s orgine but an established character is an ensemble song and dance. It virtually represent overall Chinese arts. There are four characters in the Peking Opera ; Sheng, Dan, Jing, and Chuck. Sheng is divided into Nosheng, Sosheng, Musheng and Hongsheng based on their dramatic skills. Also, Sheng requires various acting skills : song, dance, dialogue, act and fighting skill. Peking Opera＇s stage costume was set up in Qing dynasty though it＇s style was embellished with mainly Ming dynasty＇s clothing style. The rankings and personalties of the role are strictly applied to decide what to wear. Artistic exaggeration, symbol and transfiguration, use of colors are equally important in planning the stage costume.

• 한국콘텐츠학회논문지
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• 제17권2호
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• pp.149-159
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• 2017

한국과 일본은 지리적으로 밀접하고 같은 한자문화권에 속해있다. 때문에 많은 유사점을 가진 가운데 나름의 차이를 발견할 수 있는 문화를 발전시켜왔다. 이런 특징은 서양음악의 수용과 발전 과정에서도 관찰된다. 창작오페라에 있어서 양국은 토대가 되는 서양음악의 도입경로나 시기, 소재, 자생력이 없는 순수공연예술이라는 일반적인 유사성을 보이고 있지만 답보상태인 한국에 비해 일본 창작오페라는 '유즈루'라는 세계무대에서 활용할 수 있는 작품을 만들어내는 등 오페라를 통한 문화적 교류에 능동적으로 나서고 있다는 부분에서 상이점이 존재한다. 오페라가 서양의 음악양식이라 할지라도 고급예술의 음악적 언어를 통해 자국의 문화를 전달하고 소통하는 것은 문화강국으로서의 지위를 확보하기 위한 중요한 문제 중 하나다. 디지털기술의 발달로 오페라의 영역이 미디어엔터테인먼트로 확장되는 이때, 우리보다 앞서 창작오페라를 문화커뮤니케이션의 도구로 활용했던 일본의 사례와 우리나라의 창작오페라 발전과정을 비교 연구해 보는 것은 한국 창작오페라가 수준 높은 공연문화콘텐츠로 발전하는데 도움이 될 것으로 생각한다.