• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.1-12
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• 1981

Nous avons essaye, dans cette etude, de deceler les caracteristiques de la silhouette du style d'Empire en eclairant it la fois le processus de sa formation ai travers La Monarchie, La Republique, Le Directoire, Le Consulat et l'Empire. Nous avons souligne comme suit: En premier lieu, comme les caracteristiques generaux, la simp lification et la democratisation. En second lieu, comme celles de La Monarchie et de La Republique, la transformation renovatrice en forme grossiere du style cylindriforme de la mode d'epoque ancienne. En troisieme lieu, comme celles du Directoire, la formation de l'unite esthetique au haut degre et les lignes naturelles du corps. En quatrieme lieu, comme celles du Consulat et de l'Empire, l'achevement du style d'Empire d'ornement somptueux refletant l'autorite politique de l'Empereur.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.44 no.3
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• pp.441-451
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• 2020

This study examined the characteristics of the royal progress and regulations on costumes in the king's excursion by a royal carriage and then investigates King Gojong's costumes in "Dongga Painting of the Korean Empire". To examine the regulations on costumes in the king's excursion by a royal carriage, there are unique costumes, 'Ikseongwan and Gangsapo' for the great memorial service for ancestors during the Korean Empire period. 'Ikseongwan and Gangsapo' are not provided in the code during the Joseon Dynasty period. Thus, it was not provided in the regulations, in the actual execution of the ritual, the king put on 'Ikseongwan and Gangsapo,' so entering the Korean Empire period, it was legislated as 'Ikseon-gwanbok' in Daehan-yejeon. There is a scene in the "Dongga Painting of the Korean Empire" in which the king pays a visit on Yeon, holding 'Gyu' in 'Ikseongwan and Gonryongpo'. However, holding 'Gyu' on Yeon in 'Ikseongwan and Gonryongpo' can be seen in King Gojong's royal procession to hold Jongmyo Chunhyangdaeje in the year of Gabo (1894). This study showed that there was a compromise for the ritual despite not being regulated by law.

• Journal of Korean Theatre Studies Association
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• no.40
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• pp.125-162
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• 2010

This is the study on the 'Theater State' in the Daehan Empire of the Emperor Gochung in the late 1900 with the theatrical concepts of cultural performance theory which has been useful for investigating historical, social, and cultural collective memories and their transformation mechanism in the society. The performance theory is based in the notion, '$Performativit{\ddot{a}}t$', by which the performance can contain vary performance forms. $Performativit{\ddot{a}}t$ is the notion which points up the certain process that can cause the perceptional emotion communication to the performers and audiences in the performance. The spectacle of a society is also understood and presupposed by the $Performativit{\ddot{a}}t$. Generally speaking, the spectacle has been used of explaining the visual cultural experiences in society. Fundamentally, spectacle had resulted from the latin 'spectaculum', which was used to designate theatrical representation in France. In the case of movie, spectacle was the grand show with showy technological attractions. The spectacle have been to show the political and socio-historical relationships in a society. But in my study, I want to start the premise that the cultural performance planed by the Emperor Gochung in the Daehan Empire has the attribute of 'theater state', which can awaken the certain collective emotion to connect the Emperor and his people in the Daehan Empire period of the Emperor Gochung of the late 1900. In addition to it, I search for the historical collective memories of the Daehan Empire. The government of the Daehan Empire was continuing with its efforts to enforce and recollect the imperial images and authority of the Emperor and his Empire to get the approval of the people and international society. The effect of spectacle consisting of theater state was the concrete effort to establish the collective memories of the Daehan Empire by remodelling and rebuilding the Seoul, the capital of the Empire and performing the national ceremony such as the korean pagent(Gae-Dung거둥) and parade to set the portrait of the Emperor(A-Jin어진), the geo-body of the Empire.

• Journal of architectural history
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• v.25 no.5
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• pp.41-50
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• 2016

This thesis mainly deals with how 'count of Ryang' was used in the Daehan Empire. Count of Ryang means how many purlins were used in the building with longitudinal section. As a result, the notion of Ryang in the Daehan Empire does not differ from now one. But the usages of that are different from the Joseon Dynasty, and from the present. In the Daehan Empire, count of Ryang mainly was appeared with another word, count of Kan. In the Joseon Dynasty, they used the count of Ryang combined with Kan. Count of Kan had the meaning of purlin-directional length. By doing that, count of Ryang indicates the size of flank, count of Kan indicates the length of front. But in the Daehan Empire, count of Kan, especially the beam-directional length was considered at first, and then count of Ryang. Separately they used another count of Kan meaning the area of building. By using the combined words, count of Kan and Ryang in the beam direction, they got focused on the frame of wooden structure than before.

• Journal of architectural history
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• v.29 no.5
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• pp.17-28
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• 2020

The general contractor business in South Korea settled in the railway construction during the Daehan Empire, but depending on the construction intention and circumstances of the railroad, relationship among employer-contractor-subcontractor and their roles under the system of the construction process had changed. At the time of laying the Gyeongin and Gyeongbu-rail, the Empire, which had no capital and technology, passed all the power and responsibility of the rail laying to the contractor, who was involved in most of the process. After this, the empire tried to lay Gyeongui-railroad without the help of other countries. Japan prepared for the Russo-Japanese War and decided to construct the railway rapidly, and completed the railway in parallel with direct management work and contract work. From that time on, the general contractor would only do the work. During the construction of railroad in Daehan empire, the general contract business system was established. The ambiguous process was sorted out and divided. At this time, subjects in charge of design and construction has been divided. The internal organization of the project owner and the contractor were organaized and specialized.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.340-358
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• 2017

The purpose of this study is to fundamentally examine the vests of the robes "Daeraebok" and "Soraebok" of the Korean Empire from the 1876 Port Opening to the 1910 annexation of Korea to Japan. Among the collections of different robes of the Korean Empire which belong to various universities and institutions, only the vests were surveyed. The shape of the vests in the Korean Empire were single-breasted and double-breasted. Most V-necklines and vests with a shawl collar look like a tailored collar, where the collar outline was shaped like a notched and picked collar, which is a mix of the step collar and roll collar of the 19th century. The rear center line was not flat, but inclined to a triangle. All vests of the robe Daeraebok were equipped with gold buttons, and those of the robe Soraebok had black satin buttons. The tailoring characteristic is that the front has a different material (dark black wool) from the back (black silk). This characteristic is expected to be an important basic piece of information in the restoration and reproduction of the vest, which was worn during the imperial period, especially to reveal its shape, characteristics and composition. This characteristic can also be used as data of cultural contents based on Korean modern history.

• Journal of architectural history
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• v.17 no.6
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• pp.29-44
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• 2008

This paper analyses the railroad trunk line constructed in the Korea since the end of the 19th century. The analysis consists of the following problematics. 1) The process of the decision of the railroad route 2) The relationship of the location of Eupchi and the stations By clarifying the above, the purpose of this paper is to clarify how the morphology of the city in Korea has been affected by the change in the relationship with Korea and Japan. The Empire of Japan has been reconnoitering the Korea since way before the formal contract for the railroad construction was signed. Therefore, the Empire of Japan had a very good understanding of the actual transportation system when it started the construction of the railroad. The railroad construction was used by the Empire of Japan to empower the control over the Korea. For this reason, the new railroad system was constructed as a different system from the former transportation system and the urban system was also affected. Also the relationship of the western powers and Japan around the turn of the 20th century defined the characteristic of the railway system as a pathway through the Korean peninsular to link Japan to the continent. Moreover, being apprehensive about the friction with the western, Japan located the railway stations to avoid the missionary land properties. This made it clear that the restraint relationship between Japan and the western affected the urban special structure.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.3
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• pp.123-137
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is contemplating and substantiating Korean Empire's court costume through relics and photos. Additionally, the meaning of the pattern of Mugunghwa as the national symbol in the court costume is considered. The results of this study are following. First, a phased introduction of western-style court costume was executed through Ulmi Reformation in 1895 and Court Costume Rule in 1900. U1mi Reformation was characterized by transitional reformation because newly introduced system and traditional costume consolidated in costume. Under Court Costume Rule, however, by accepting western-style on contemporary costume, modernized style was settled in every respect of form and matter. The court costume comprised bicorn, coat, vest, pantaloon, sword, sword belt, white collar and white gloves at audience with the Emperor. Second, by examination of the relics of Chigimgwan and Juimgwan, it was confirmed that the court costume was manufactured in foreign countries such as France and Russia on the basis of order. It was also identified by pictures that court costume was worn by diplomats dispatched. Third, the pattern of Mugunghwa in court costume was featured by embroidery of 6 petal pattern. And the pattern of Mugunghwa, as national symbol, has important meaning in view of history and national affection, while Japanese and European adopted the crest of the royal household. In summary, Korean Empire proclaimed modernized court costume institution to handle international relationship driven by West. It was uneasy reformation in adopting western court costume imported from overseas because its textile and style were completely different from traditional costume. However, the willingness of Korean Empire should be reevaluated in the history of Korean costume, in that Korean Empire established court costume proclaimed its sovereignty domestically and overseas, and that the pattern chosen as national symbol was that of Mugunghwa which is current national flower.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.8 no.6
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• pp.57-67
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• 2004

The forms of man's costumes in Byzantine Empire were changed according to each composition of costumes. Those forms of costumes had common features of each period when costumes were included. At the same time, however, the fact that differences existed in accordance with a social position including gender, class, occupation, etc. even though in same period were showed. Analytic elements of man's costumes in Byzantine Empire were selected by important factors. This showed the meanings of position and class in that time. The kinds of analytic elements in man's outwear were various but the forms of costumes were not developed because christianity influenced the forms of clothing in the Middle Ages. As the result of synthesis, the main factor of man's costumes was a tunic in Byzantine Empire of the Middle Ages The phases of the times were reflected on the structure of man's costumes in Byzantine Empire. In particular, religious feature was emphasized, and analytic elements of costumes having meanings showed the features of the society at the Middle Ages. For example, a central analytic element of man's costume, an outer garment was a tunic style of H-silhouette that hid the body line. This was influenced by the phases of the times. Namely, the costume stands as a symbol of the times, and also is a cultural sign that reflects phases like politics, economy, religion.

• Journal of architectural history
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• v.27 no.2
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• pp.79-88
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• 2018

Foreign Reception Hall in Gyeongungung Palace was constructed during 1899-1902 according to Yesigjangjeong (禮式章程), Korean Empire's modern diplomatic protocol. This bulilding is a case worthy of notice, because its construction process was written in Jubon(奏本), Korean Empire's official document. Yesigjangjeong(禮式章程) regulates the process of diplomat's audience with Emperor Gojong. The process suggested that Foreign Reception Hall was designed as the place of the end as well as the beginning for audience. According to the process, diplomat came through main gate, Daehanmun and outer gate of main hall(Junghwajeon Hall, Audience Hall), then arrived at the stair to Foreign Reception Hall. After waiting time in the hall, he was going to be granted an audience with Emperor. And he exited through Foreign Reception Hall as the reverse way. This hall was constructed as western-style. Subcontracted carpenters and wood sculptors and laborers from China represents that chinese workers were prevailed in the government construction at that time. And modern building materials, such as glass, colored brick, sanitary wares and lightings were applied, which showed the new landscape in the middle of Gyeongungung Palace. Above all, official documents related with this hall reveals Korean Empire supervised this construction for diplomatic protocol. That is the identity of western-style buildings in Gyeongungung Palace.