• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.95-112
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• 2005

Hair styles, dresses and their ornaments are basic measures that show the trend of the times, the people and their life in both Eastern and Western societies. The history of a country could start or be extinguished at any time, but life goes on. Koguryo was founded around Anno Domini and fell at 668 A. D. What was Koguryo people like? How was their hair style and costume? This study aims to respond those questions. The Koguryo ancient mural paintings can be broadly divided into the Jip-An region and the Pyon-Yang region. Among the paintings found, that in the An-Ak 3rd ancient tomb at the Pyon-Yang region is the biggest and the most splendid. It is a figure genre painting, which contains a kitchen, a rice mill, a stable, a barn, a garage, etc. Those places illustrate the way of life at the time. The painting also comprises a man with a crown, who is seen as the king and owner of this tomb. The woman with a vertically designed hair style is perceived as the queen. A highly guarded and decorated royal parade is also presented in detail. The hair styles and costume evidence in the An-Ak 3rd ancient tomb are not seen in the paintings of the Jip-An region. This study inquires into the differences between the Pyon-Yang and lip-An regions through the history and the culture of those areas. Nevertheless, it could prove tentative to confirm the owner of the An-Ak 3rd ancient tomb with the only evidence of the words found in the wall of the tomb. It is the author's intention to study and analyse further.

• Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
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• v.14 no.5 s.52
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• pp.80-88
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• 2005

The ondol is a uniquely Korean system of providing warmth to room. The ondol rooms never use daily life furniture because the ondol warms the floor surface where people sit. Finally, the ondol floor changed the traditional housings inner space. Before use ondol where daily life furnitures[sang(상) and Tap(탑)] are installed in the room. The origin of daily life furnitures are the ancient tomb mural of Koguryo Period. The daily life furniture can be classified as three large groups in the ancient tomb mural of Koguryo. First, a single seat[Jowa-sang(좌상)] of set up a screen[병풍]. The second, It make possible Many peoples take a seat with no decoration seat[Tap(탑)]. The third, uptodately table and chairs. A radical difference between sang(상) and Tap(탑) whether set up a screen[병풍]. The meaning of sang(상) and Tap(탑) in Koguryo ancient tomb provided Oksa-jo[옥사조] in Samkuk-sagi[삼국사기] with several valuable leads to help solve the sang(상)'s meaning. Furthermore, It will be start ponit of study on constructive shape of inner space in those days.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Food Culture
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• v.31 no.1
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• pp.51-63
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• 2016

The aim of this study was to investigate food culture represented by the grain yard, water well, kitchen, and meat storage space which were depicted in the mural painting of An-Ak tomb No. 3. The mural paintings of An-Ak tomb No. 3 were compared with those of ancient Chinese tombs before the 4th century in order to understand their characteristics. Above all, the tomb murals describe the form and function of the stove (buttumak) as well as the cuisine using the cauldron (sot) and steamer (siru) in a very interesting manner. The meat storage space of An-Ak tomb No. 3 shows whole carcasses of animals such as roe deer, dog, and pig. However, Chinese murals show that while small animals such as soft-shelled turtle, fish, chicken, duck, pheasant, rabbit, etc. were stored as whole carcasses without being cut into pieces, large animals such as cows and pigs were slaughtered and each piece of their carcasses such as the head, thigh, meat loaf, and cardiopulmonary part was separately depicted. These tomb murals vividly describe the food culture of Koguryo and China before the 4th century.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.49 no.2
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• pp.20-55
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• 2016

Koguryo's tomb mural paintings in North Korea are our precious cultural heritage which have been designated as UNESCO World Heritage property receiving high praise in the following criterion, i) exceptional creativeness of human being, ii) representative value showing the stage of development in construction history of East-Asia, iii) aesthetic superiority iv) uniqueness of building construction including tombs' ceiling. Mural paintings have been found from almost 100 tombs of the Koguryo dynasty out of 130 which are scattered across Huanren County, Lianoning Province, Ji'an, Jilin Province in China and Pyongyang in North Korea. Especially, most of them are gathered in Pyongyang from 4th and 5th century. Peculiarly, some of them have been constructed before King Jangsu's transfer of the capital to Pyongyang(AD 427). It can be regarded that Pyongyang territory had been under control of Koguryo and to become a new capital in the near future. And dense emergence of such tombs since the capital transfer from Gungnae City to Pyongyang during the reign of Jangsu is linked closely to the construction of tombs for rulers under strengthen royal authority of Jangsu and centralized system of authoritarian rule. Tomb mural paintings describe the owner's figure pictorially based on the truth just as in his living years. General lifestyles of ruling powers and sovereigns can be seen from the wall paintings portraying several buildings with various styles, figures, manners of living, which are considered that the tomb owner had led politically and sociologically in his life. In spite of not enough proofs to approve figure of architectures or "Gong-Po" in wall paintings on the tombs as those of Koguryo, it is persuasive with consideration for painting and decoration inside the tomb like wooden building in real life for the purpose of reenacting and continuing the tomb owner's luxurious life after death. "Du-Gong-Po-Zak" had appeared in company with Koguryo tomb murals and it can be found in most of the murals. And the emergence of substantial "Gong-Po-Do" can be counted more than a century ahead of the figure in murals. It could be a reasonable assumption as regards Koguryo tomb murals time of appearance match up with production period of Gahyungmyunggi(家形明器) and Hwasangseok(畵像石) Hwasangjeon(畵像塼) Design in the Mural Painting of the East-Han(東漢) Ancient Tombs in China. On this study, architectural "Gong-Po"s described in Koguryo tomb murals are categorized largely in "Bi(non)-Po-Zak-kye", "Jun(semi)-Po-Zak-kye", and "Po-Zak-kye" based on presence of "Ju-Du", "Cheom-Cha", and "Cheom-Cha-Sal-Mi" with developmental aspect, and, "Po-zak" is subdivided as "Bi(non)-Cheul-Mok" and "Cheul-Mok" types.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.4 no.1_2
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• pp.49-56
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• 1980

Because of the scarcity of data, a study of costume during the Baikje period can be made imaginarily only with historical records as data. According to records, Baikje costume was almost the same as that of the Koguryo period. Consequently, we may well imagine Baikje costume by means of studying such materials as the mural paintings found in Koguryo tombs and the remains found in the royal tomb of Munyung. The basic form of costume of the Baikje period, therefore, might have been like this: Both male and female wore a kind of jacket(유: JEOGORI) and trousers(고: BAJI) with female-wearing skirt (상: CHIMA) thereon. Both men and women wore overcoat(포: DURUMAGI). They used to wear headdress(관모) and used leather shoes(화) Such a form of costume can be found in the costume of HANIWA(식륜) of Japan, which belonged to the costume of HOBOK (호복) of the northern area. Under the SHIMNEUK-PUM-KWAN-KE(십육품관계) system, that is, 16 grades of official ranks, officials of the Baikje dynasty wore clothes, coronets and belts, all of which differed from one another in colors, according to ranks. Such a system of Baikje might have influenced the KANI-JUNI-KAI (the 12-grade color discrimination of the coronet, 관위십이계) for the government officials of ancient Japan the Suiko period. For the study of such matters, I have tried to review the flow of the Korean culture into ancient Japan in the field of costume.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.5 s.95
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• pp.78-86
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• 2005

Marek(말액) is the headgear, which is a form of hempen hoods[Geon(건)] and the origin of it is Pa(파) of band form. A history book of an old Chinese country Post-Han $\ll$ History of HouHan (후한서)$\gg$ had recorded that a soldier wore a red band around his head that was called Pa(파). In the Han dynasty(한대), Pa had been transformed into Chaek(책) or a kind of a hemp rap(건) while e headgear had still remained as the band form and called Marek from e Tang era(당). The literatures of the Tang era had referred the red Marek of soldiers, and other literatures of the later period had recorded that of the previous headgears of the band form were related with Marek. Since the Tang era, white or yellow Marek except red one fer soldiers had been were by soldiers, musicians, dancers and singers in Yuan(원) and Ming(명) of China. The colors was recorded in red on documents mostly, this red implicated soldiers for symbol of terror. This fart was documented in an old history book $\ll$The history of 25 Eras(이십오사)$\gg$, On the other side, a wall painting in Princess Jeonghyo(정효공주)'s tomb of the Parhae(발해) period described the portraits of twelve persons, and among them, two Siwui(시위) put on the red Marek. Quoted from the record of a history book of the Tang era system , a history book of Three Kingdoms(삼국시대) of ancient Korea $\ll$Samguksaki(삼국사기)$\gg$ described that four dancers of Kogryo(고구려) wore Marek on their heads with the costumes of Koguryo, one of those Kingdoms. In consideration that the book of $\ll$Tongjun$\gg$ was the literature of the Tang era so that Marek mentioned in this book was followed by their name, the Marek of Koguryo dancers shown in the history book $\ll$Samguksaki(삼국사기)$\gg$ might be a kind of Koguryo style hemp cap[Geon(건)]. The Marek of Parhae had succeeded to the headgear of Koguryo and the identity was on Koguryo.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.30 no.4
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• pp.457-466
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• 2014

Rigorous analysis was performed to identify the structure and materials of the murals to study techniques used on mural tombs of ancient Daegaya era(6th century). The murals were painted by applying mortar on the walls and the ceiling after building a stone chamber and creating ground layers on mortar layers. Mud was applied on most of the mortar layers on four sides of the walls except the ceiling. Sand was not used in mortar but was made of materials with pure calcium substances. In addition, shells in irregular sizes with incomplete calcination were mixed; and the mortar's white powder was inferred as lime obtained by calcination of oyster shells. Kaolinite($Al_2Si_2O_5(OH)_4$) was used in the ground layer, Cinnabar(HgS) was used for red pigment, Malachite($Cu_2CO_3(OH)_2$) for green and Lead white($PbCO_3{\cdot}Pb(OH)_2$) for white. Mud plaster was applied on the mortar and was composed thinly and densely using clayey of particle size smaller than that of medium sand. It was assumed that the finishing was for repair after long time had passed since the mortar layer came off. Using lime made with oyster shells as mortar is unprecedented in ancient Korean mural tombs and its durability was very poor, suggesting that Gaya's mortar production technique was relatively behind compared to that of Koguryo's in the same era.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.15
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• pp.177-194
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• 1990

Koh(袴) was a type of dress worn on the lower part of the body which was commonly used in the Northeast Asia. It was originally used by the Northern race for the need of nomadism or hunting. The origin of the Koh which appeared in the area would be found from the trousers of the Huns who influenced in the Northeast Asia, and became in the part of the Scythian culture. The Scythians are the nomadizing race inhabited in the Northern Caucasas on the wast of the Black Sea and influenced on the inland Eurasian steppe as the first typical horse-riding race. The objectives of Koh which had been worn in the Scythian, Mongolia, Korea as well as Japan as a part of Dongho dress and ornaments and to contemplate the transmission process by cultural exchange among different races for the period from 4th century to 7th century. 1. The Origination of the Koh The Koh was originated by the environmental factor to protect the cold in the North but also from the heat in the South, and was changed and developed as gradually satisfying to the needs of the times. In the Northeast Asia the Koh was in the class of the Northern Chinese garment, and was used widely by the horse riding Scythians who moved widely from the Eurasian inland to Japan. The oldest original which could reflect the type of the Northern clothes was a pair of trousers discovered in the Huns remains of Noin Ula. This showed the exact form of hunting clothes and had a similar form with the Korean female tro-users. Since the same form of trousers drawn on the wall painting of which was excavated 4-5th century ancient Koguryo(高句麗) tomb was the same form the trousers of Noin Ula seemed to be the original form of Koh in the Northeast Asia. 2. The Chinese Trousers It was the time of the King Mooryung(武靈王) in the Cho(趙) Dynasty B.C. 3th century that the trousers used regularly in China. However, the Koh had been used as undergarment which functioned for the protection of the cold not the horseriding garment. The trousers seemed to be not very obviously shown off since the Poh (袍) was long, but mainly used by the people from lower class. As people learned the adapted the trousers. It was essential for the times of war and quarrel. The king himself started wearing the Koh. The Chinese trousers were influenced by the Huns, the Northern clothes of the Scythian culture, and similar to the Korean clothes. 3. The Korean Trousers Korean was a race bared from the Eastern foreign group. It was obvious that the clothes was Baji-Jeogori(바지 저고리), the garment of the Northern people. This had the same form of the Scythian dress and ornaments which was excavated from the Mongolian Noin Ula. The Scythian dress and ornaments were influenced from the Ancient West Asia Empire and transmitted to the Northeast Koguryu by the horseriding Scythian. The trousers were kept in the traditional style by the common people in Korea were transmitted to Japan which were for behind in cultural aspect, as well as got used to the Chinese as the efficient clothes though active cultural exchange. 4. The Japanese Trousers The ancient Japanese clothes were influenced by the Southern factor but not the form of the Koh. As the Korean people group was moving towards Japan and conquer the Japanese in the 4-5th century, however, North Altaic culture was formed and at the same time the clothes were also developed. The most influenced clothes at this time were those of Baekge(百濟) and the trousers form called Euigon became the main form. Because of the climatic regional factor, it was tied not at the ankle but under the knee. From the view the ancient Japanese clothes disappeard about that time, it could be due to the conquest of the culturally superior race but not the transmission of the culture. In the latest 7th century both the Chinese and Japanese dress forms were present, but the Dongho(東胡) dress and its ornament from Korea was still the basic of the Japanese dress form.