• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.36 no.8
• /
• pp.828-836
• /
• 2012

This study provided the data for the planning of knit apparel by analyzing structural effects of intarsia and jacquard knit on mechanical properties, subjective hand measurements, and preference. Intarsia and 7 types of color jacquard (floating jacquard, normal jacquard, bird's eye jacquard, tubular jacquard, ladder's back jacquard, blister jacquard, and transfer jacquard) were used. The samples (with a gauge of 14) were knitted using 100% wool 2/48's yarn by a Shima Seiki SIG computer knitting machine. Mechanical properties and hand values were measured by a KES-FB system. Subjective hand and favorable images were surveyed based on women in their 20s and 30s. The data were analyzed by a factor analysis, ANOVA and correlation analysis using SPSS 12.0. The subjective hand of intarsia and jacquard knits was categorized into 'thermofeeling', 'weight/flexibility', and 'durability'. The results of the favorable image survey for F/W outer knitwear showed that tubular jacquard was most favorable; however, the transfer jacquard was least favorable. Among the three factors that explain the subjective hand, thermofeeling had a strong influence on the favorable image of consumers. Bird's eye jacquard and tubular jacquard turned out to be most suitable for suits, intarsia and floating jacquard were suitable for cardigans and sweaters, ladder's back jacquard was suitable for hats or mufflers, and transfer jacquard was suitable for home fashion rather than garments.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
• /
• v.29 no.4
• /
• pp.231-238
• /
• 2017

There are many kinds of elements and processes for the development of high quality bedding products like fiber, high-temperature heat treatment, dyeing process, tenter drying with softening agent and multiple final finishing. Especially we examined the mechanical characteristic properties of fabrics according to different yarn types. The critical physical properties of the yarn consisting the pile knitted fabrics were obtained for the development of the hi-grade bedding items. The material property and the exhaustion behaviour of the developed pile knitted fabrics composing of different yarns were measured and observed. The physical properties of the developed fabric were evaluated through the material property analysis of the yarn, the physical nature of the pile knitted fabrics and the data of the exhaustion performance; tensile strength, tensile elongation, tearing strength, cross section of yarn types, dyeing properties etc. And then high-class of bedding items were knitted using the double raschel machine to make the pile knitted fabrics.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.18 no.3
• /
• pp.465-475
• /
• 2010

For this study, 18 kinds of cut and sew or seamless knitted test garment were made. Samples differed from each other by skirt angles($90^{\circ}$, $180^{\circ}$), gauges(7G, 12G, 15G), and grain directions(bias direction, wale direction, and radial direction). After measuring the mechanical properties of various gauges on the seamless knitting machine, I compared shape of the knitted flare skirt through subjective evaluation on appearances. The data analysis methods used in this study were descriptive statistics, one-way ANOVA, Duncan-test, correlation analysis, and regression analysis. The subjective evaluation on appearances of knitted flare skirts showed the following: In case of $90^{\circ}$ skirt, the seamless skirt showed a much higher score in every gauge expect that of the cut and sew 12G, and silhouette of 15G wale direction. In case of the $180^{\circ}$ skirt, the seamless type showed a much higher score in every item over the cut and sew expect the silhouette part of 7G wale direction.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.35 no.8
• /
• pp.968-981
• /
• 2011

This study examines the effect of the structure of Intarsia and Jacquard knit on mechanical properties of knit fabrics to suggest data for knit design. Intarsia and 7 types of Color Jacquard (Floating Jacquard, Normal Jacquard, Bird's eye Jacquard, Tubular Jacquard, Ladder's back Jacquard, Blister Jacquard, and Transfer Jacquard) were used. The samples with a gauge of 14 were knitted using 100% wool 2/48's yarn by Shima Seiki SIG computer knitting machine. The Objective Hand was measured by KES-FB system and HV and THV were calculated by the formula of KN-402-KT and KN-301-winter respectively. The results showed that Intarsia and Floating Jacquard are thin, flexible and light, Bird's eye Jacquard is slick, flat and slim, Tubular Jacquard is stiff and undrapable, Ladder's back Jacquard is difficult in shearing deformation and relatively bulky, Blister Jacquard is thickest and transfer jacquard is uneven in surface contour. The selection of proper structure is important for the knit apparel production since the thickness and weight of knit determine the amount of yarn needed and consequently the production cost. The hands of Ladder's back Jacquard and Tubular Jacquard are superior to those of other structures. Intarsia and Floating Jacquard which are thin, light and flexible seem to be good structures for designs showing a body silhouette whereas, Bird's eye Jacquard, Tubular Jacquard and Blister Jacquard (which are thick, heavy, and stiff) are suitable for a boxy silhouette.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.26 no.3
• /
• pp.163-177
• /
• 2024

Korea has preserved a highly sophisticated silk fabric culture throughout its history. Among these fabrics, Ra (羅) was considered to be a premium gauze fabric that required advanced skill and dedication to utilize. Ra is a complex gauze fabric in which four warp threads are twisted together and intersect with the weft to form intricate holes. This unique structure gives Ra its distinctive transparency and elasticity among silk textiles. It was widely used for veils, garments, and various items from the Three Kingdoms period to the Joseon Dynasty. However, its complex weaving process limited production efficiency, leading to its decline. Today, Ra has become obsolete. This study focuses on the elastic characteristics of Ra, where intersecting warp threads create net-like structured holes. This stucturre was emulated by developing a silk knit using a Raschel knitting machine. The developed product consists of three types: one replicating the alternating complex structure present in the traditional patterns of Munra (紋羅), another reproducing the distinctive hexagonal holes of the 4-end complex gauze, and the last expressing the hexagonal holes with the weft passing through them. Inspired by Ra's traditional uses in clothing and everyday items, various products were designed and produced. These include a women's coat with Akjureum, a 17th-century Joseon-style women's Jeogori, a modern market-style Jeogori, and a envelope inspired by a Goryeo Dynasty pouch artifact. These items confirm the potential and applicability of the developed silk knit as a material for modern Hanbok products. This study underscores the significance of developing new textiles that incorporate traditional materials, highlighting how tradition can be preserved in diverse ways.

• The Journal of the Korea Contents Association
• /
• v.20 no.4
• /
• pp.124-137
• /
• 2020

The need for customized products has also been increasing as more active consumers consume according to their values in recent years. Accordingly, fashion customizing web is becoming popular, but because custom freedom is low, we want to increase custom freedom by applying knitwear. To this end, a theoretical review was conducted through prior research and literature research on customization, knit design, and GUI, and based on this, a case analysis was conducted focusing on knit-making programs and fashion customizing web. Knit designs have more considerations than other fashion design process, resulting in more UIs, so users should use visual elements that are easily recognizable. Therefore, a draft assessment item was derived based on the preceding survey and three Delphi surveys were conducted on experts based on the draft. Each item was modified and deleted during the Delphi research process to produce the Custom Knitware Web GUI Design Guide. Through this study, we were able to identify the need for intuitive understanding and application of knit custom functions in GUI design of custom knitwear web. Through this research, it is expected that this data will be used to improve the usability of custom knitwear websites and to refer to knit design fields that utilize knit machines.