• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권3호
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• pp.420-432
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to survey the present women's golf windbreaker market to develop the trendy product with supplementing design and functionality by grasping the inconvenient part through the result of the questionnaire. According to the questionnaire, 38.1% said that the armhole is the most inconvenient part by tightfitting. Therefore, a mobility of wearer was enhanced by giving shirring detail to the armhole for flexibility through inserting the elastic band with a regular interval around armhole in the design1. The swing movement was allowed to be convenient by attaching knit to the side panel. And, the sleeves were designed in the detachable form so those are allowed to be produced in two kinds such as long sleeves and short sleeves. In the design2, a zipper was inserted from the neckline to the armhole so it is designed a detachable bolero. Furthermore, it was designed to be possible to wear two different way as a jumper style and a vest style. Given wearing a vest, the sleeve part was patched knit, thereby having enhanced activity. The design1 and the design2 evaluated an objective assessment and subjective assessment. Assessment group consists of 5 subject groups and 10 expert groups to evaluate external appearance and movement adaptability. In the external appearance evaluation, the design1 obtained the better evaluation than design2. In the movement adaptability evaluation, the design1 obtained the better evaluation than the design2 for all of the items except the wrist area. In the group of professionals, the design1 obtained the better evaluation than the design2 for all of the items except the bottom area.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제3권1호
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• pp.113-124
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is to provide for the basic data useful to designing a scientific and systematic merchandising program for infants' wear brands. For this purpose, designer and MD working for 8 local infants' wear brands were surveyed to analyze the conditions of their designing and merchandising of infants' wears. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; 1. Only 3 brands employed MD for their merchandising departments. The average number of clothing designers employed by the subject brands was 3-5, while that of colorists was 1-2, and that of accessory designers was 2-3. On the other hand, the average number of patternmakers employed was about 1, while that of sewer was 4. 2. Many of the sample infants' wear brands tended to collect and analyze the information for merchandising, while most of them relied less on outside planned data. The information source upon which they relied most was 'local and foreign fashion magazine', followed by 'data surveyed by local and foreign department stores' and 'data surveyed for local fabric markets' in their order. Meanwhile, the main color represented 70-90% of the total colors, while the pastel groups accounted for 30-40% and vivid color groups for 40-50%. On the other hand, knit accounted for about 60% of their materials, while woven and sweater accounted for 30% and 10%, respectively. 3. In overall terms, most of brands felt that their brands were preferred as much as or less than their competitive brands, while consumers felt expensive for infants' wears. Namely, most consumers were dissatisfied with the price levels of infants' wears. On the other hand, consumers were found to favor the pastel color groups a little more, while being aware of each brand's sizes more or less precisely. 4. The medium upon which the infants' wear brands depended most for their advertisement was 'magazine', followed by 'radio' and 'catalogue' in their order. Most of them were analyzing the results of their sale turnover monthly or frequently in order to review their sales performances in comparison with their competitors. Most of brands bothered to program a sale strategy 4 times a year, primarily to dispose the stocks or find a breakthrough for their sales activities.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제4권4호
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• pp.1-16
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to investigate the formative beauty, changes in fashion and aesthetical sense that can be seen in the bias drapings of Madeleine Vionnet and her influences on modern fashion since she used draping as a new fashion means to represent the new feminine images which modernism of the early 20th century and social changes from the two great World War's generated, and to provide proper data to encourage designers' creativity that is wanting in the circle of Korea fashion. Bias draping led women to respect worship their body from the heart with seductive modernism enriching the material's texture to the utmost through geometrical patterns of triangle, quartered plane and quardrants and simple cylindrical cuts and with an attribute adapting itself to the wearer's body. Bias draped wear consisted of light and transparent materials and overall surface decoration revealed women's movements and sought the extension of environmental movements and demonstrated its eroticism. On the other hand, biased daywear gained anonymity through cutting true to body line and psychological protective quality as of cape, and this went well with the independent femininity accepting difference as well as pursuing revolution from the inside. The great inflation and the 2nd World War gave birth to escape from reality like surrealistic artistic tendencies and Hollywood films and increased romanticism. Bias draping once underwent unpopularity except in expensive clothes due to knit wear boom and the utilization of new elastic materials, however, it began to receive lights again from pluralization waves and retro tendencies and to be introduced in many designers' collections. A young genius of England, John Galliano improved functions of Haute Couture through creation of new styles and fantastic shows to promote profits in the fashion markets. Bias draping fitted in human body line provides us comfort and aesthetic qualities through careful choice of material and elegance by delicate cutting.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제17권1호
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• pp.98-113
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• 2013

This study is an attempt to analyze the daily life of the Western-yearning Seoul citizens and the inflow of the Western culture into certain social classes. The customs of the characters in the film are studied to illustrate the process of deconstruction of Korean traditional clothes due to the Western influence. The combined application of the Western and Korean styles is also observed. All this study leads to the sense of homogeneity of the times and the conformity to the culture the Korean women shared, which boils down to the social identity of the Korean women who sought an escape from the men-centered social structure by displaying their competence in the field of global modern fashion. As Seonyeong Oh, the main character of the film, , was wearing in the movie the Korean traditional dress, socks, rubber shoes, and then a western-style coat, it well shows that in 1950's, the traditional dress and ornaments were mixed with Western styles. In time, men's wear were completely changed from the traditional Korean clothes to suits, while women's could not break off from the traditional clothes and become westernized, which indicates that the men-centered conservative ideas to keep women within the feudal regime of the society remained. The military look of Seonyeong Oh while she was acting in the society was a symbol of anti-bias against women and anti-convention as well as the will of freedom as an independent woman. Besides, the modern girls would wear clothes of military fashion, Dior's trapeze line, and knit styles flattering the figures. All these well show their desires to embrace Western cultures, especially their dress fashions as well as manners as so-called enlightened ladies. All these elements show that the director was trying to represent the progress of the drama, characters, and psychological states by means of the dress and ornaments.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제27권6호
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• pp.601-611
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• 2003

The main objective of this study was to investigate the relationship between benefits segmentation and knitwear purchasing behavior of college female students. A questionnaire was developed to measure benefits segmentation, knit wear purchasing behavior. The questionnaire was administered to 505 college female students in Chonbuk and Chonnam. The data was analyzed using percentage, frequency, mean, factor analysis, cluster analysis and ANOVA, Duncan multiple range test. The results of the study were as follows: The college female students were classified into four subdivisions by the cluster analysis: recreation pursuit group, fashion pursuit group, individuality pursuit group, self-improvement pursuit group on the basis of pursuit benefit factors. The knitwear purchasing motives of consumers were significantly different according to pursuit benefit subdivision. The individuality pursuit group was the highest user of mass media fashion information sources. The fashion pursuit group used purchasing experience and advice of others less than other groups. Consumers' evaluation criteria of knitwear products were significantly different depending on pursuit benefit subdivision in design and coordination, goods traits, practicality, individual expression, and external criterion. The other groups used purchasing experience and advice of others more than the fashion pursuit group.

• 감성과학
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• 제20권2호
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• pp.117-126
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• 2017

본 연구에서는 직/편물 8종을 대상으로 이들 수직방향과 수평방향 수분이동특성 측정방법에 따른 소재들의 수분이동 특성을 분석하였다. 또한, 8종의 시편의 MMT에 의한 건조특성을 수직 건조 측정 결과와 비교하여 논의하였다. 수평수분이동 방법인 MMT 시험 결과는 수직법인 바이렉 방법의 결과와 유사한 거동을 나타내었다. 대나무, 린넨 및 면/나일론 복합 소재는 드롭법의 흡수시간은 짧았으며, 표면의 낮은 접촉각 및 직물의 높은 다공성에 기인한 것으로 판단되며, 친수성 스테이플 섬유의 구조와 상관이 있을 것으로 보인다. MMT에 의한 건조특성은 니트 및 대나무 직물의 최대 흡수반경이 가장 우수했으며, 수식 건조법에 비해 차이를 나타내었다. MMT 방법의 건조속도는 직물의 두께와 포화수분 흡수율과 높은 상관성을 가졌으며, 회귀계수는 각각 0.9와 0.88이었다. 이는 직물의 두께가 얇을수록 위킹 및 건조특성이 우수하며, 기능성 소재기획시 착용 내구성을 판단하는데 중요함을 의미한다. 또한 상이한 섬유소재, 실 및 구조의 소재에 대한 수분이동특성(위킹, 건조)는 측정 방법에 따라 다른 결과를 나타내었다.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제13권3호
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• pp.406-413
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• 2005

This study performed the evaluation of skin temperature, heart rate, temperature and relative humidity of microclimate, and subjective sensation, such as thermal sensation, wet sensation and comfort sensation to estimate physiological responses of the human body and its comfortable feeling to the vitamin E fabric. Experiments were performed on the five healthy adult women whose average age was 21, at climate chamber in which temperature, relative humidity and air current were set up below $30{\pm}\;1^{\circ}C$, $50{\pm}\;15\%$ and 0.2m/s, respectively. Two kinds of clothes were used for experiments: unfinished sports clothes, with the same form and the same size, of short-sleeved knit shirt and long trousers made with $100\%$ cotton, and finished sports clothes printed with the vitamin E solution of the level of $0.88\%$. Exercises of walking (about 105 steps/minute) with the exercise intensity of 2.5 were performed for 20 minutes using treadmill. In result, the study showed significant difference (p<0.01) in average skin temperature between unfinished and finished sport clothes, and represented higher value with having unfinished sport clothes in wear than with finished one. The study also showed significant difference (p<0.01) in heart rate only during the period of exercise, and represented higher value generally with unfinished sport clothes than with finished one. There were significant differences not only in temperature of microclimate (p<0.01) but also in humidity of microclimate (p<0.05) between two sport clothes. As for the evaluation of subjective sensation, the study showed significant difference (p<0.05) in thermal sensation between the two kinds of sport clothes, significant difference in wet sensation only during the period of exercise, and significant difference (p<0.05) in comfort sensation only during the period of recovery.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제15권3호
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• pp.481-490
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• 2006

Adjusting pressure level in the construction of athletes' tight-fitting garments by reducing the elastic knit pattern is a challenging subject, which influences the performance of the wearer directly. Therefore, in this study, relationship between the reduction rates of the basic pattern obtained from 3D human scan data and resultant clothing pressure was explored to improve the fit and pressure exerted by clothing. 3D scan data were obtained using Cyberware and they were transformed into a flat pattern using software based on Runge-Kutta method. Reduction rate was examined by subjective wear test as well as objective pressure measurement. As a result, difference in the length between the original 3D body scan data and the 2D tight-fitting pattern was 0.02$\sim$0.50cm (0.05$\sim$1.06%), which was within the range of tolerable limits in making clothes. Among the five garments, the 3T-pattern was superior in terms of subjective sensation and fit. The pressure of the 3T pattern was 2$\sim$4 gf/cm2 at five locations on the body, which is almost the same or a bit higher than that of Z-pattern. In the case of tight-fitting overall garment, the reduction rate of the pattern in the wale direction is more critical to the subjective sensation than the course direction. It is recommended that the reduction grading rules of course direction should be larger than that of Ziegert for a better fit of tight-fitting garments. In the case of wale direction, however, reduction grading rule should be kept the same as suggested earlier by Ziegert (1988).

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제15권5호
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• pp.791-802
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• 2006

The construction of athlete's tight-fitting garments by reducing the elastic knit pattern is an interesting subject, which directly influences the performance of the wearer. Therefore, relationships between the reduction rates of the men's pants pattern obtained using measurements of Size Korea 2004 and clothing fitting were explored to improve clothing comfort. Two pattern making methods were developed and the reduction rates were applied to those pants depending on the parts of human body. The four male subjects were university students in the ages of 20 to 24. Subjective wear sensations of the experimental garments were rated using seven Likert scales during 4 consecutive days. While wearing the garments, subjects were kept four various postures including waist flexion and sitting etc by requests of the researchers. Likert type scale was used for the evaluation and 7 point indicates that it gave the best fit as tight-fitting pants. As results, differences in the length and girth between two piece pants pattern(style 1) and one piece pants pattern(style 2) were 0.0$\sim$0.3cm. Between two pattern making methods, one piece pants pattern(the style 2) was superior to two piece pants pattern in terms of subjective sensation and fit. Among eight tight-fitting pants, C, D, G, H pants were superior in terms of fitting and stability of waist and hip part to the others. ill case of tight-fitting pants, the reduction rate of the pattern in the course direction, the reduction rate of T2/3(66%) was better than that of T/2(50%), but the reduction rate of the pattern in the wale direction, that of the part of crotch, which was very sensitive part, should be kept the same as suggested earlier by Ziegert(1988).

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제8권1호
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• pp.123-128
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• 2006

For the purpose of examining the relationship of physiological and subjective responses to different exercise intensities and varied types of sportswear material, under environmental condition $20{\pm}1^{\circ}C$ $50{\pm}3%$RH, five men who wear four different kinds of sportswear which have same clothing cover area. The subjects exercised for 20 min with a 20 min pre-exercise rest period and another 20 min post-exercise recovery period. Throughout the 60 min. duration, we monitored the local skin temperature, rectal temperature, clothing microclimate and subjective sensation. The mean skin temperature was recorded to range from $33.5{\sim}34.1^{\circ}C$ for the entire duration of the experiment with the highest temperature observed at the 7th min after starting the exercise. During the exercise intensity at THR 20, the lowest recorded temperature was at the 5th min of the recovery time and stabilized at the 10th min. However, in the exercise intensity condition at THR 70, the temperature declined steadily until the end of the experiment. With regard to clothing materials, cotton 100% and Polyester/Cotton blended fabrics knit(35/65) was $0.5{\sim}0.7^{\circ}C$ maintained lower than Polyester 100% and polyester/Cotton blended woven fabrics (65/35). In the case of the rectal temperature at THR 70 in case of PET 100%, Polyester/Cotton blended woven fabrics (35/65) was higher $0.2{\sim}0.5^{\circ}C$ than other sportswear throughout the duration of the experiment.