• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.37-48
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• 2019

WKSF (Warp-knitted spacer fabrics) knitted using a double Raschel machine is the three-dimensional knit that has vertically connected separate layers in loop structures. Because of its unique structure, the fabric is light, compressible and breathable. Owing to the high production speed, the use of the fabric is increasing in various areas. The purpose of this study is to establish the design process in the utilization of WKSF program and analyze the difference between WKSF and Neoprene as garment materials.. The study on the design related to WKSF has rarely been carried out because of the complexity of WKSF structure and the difficulties encountered in analyzing the structure and thread. Therefore, checking beforehand the simulation results similar to a final knit using the CAD program for WKSF can only enhance the efficiency of the design for the light knits. The conclusion drawn after designing the light knits using the CAD program and analyzing the pros and cons of WKSF through the various property evaluation techniques is as follows. The tension characteristic analysis results indicated that Neoprene specimen has the elastic transformation and resilience, thus behaving like an elastic product such as rubber. By contrast, in the event that clothing and fashion accessories are designed with WKSF, these products are kept in a boxy style fit so that the fabric can be applied flexibly to a curvy body line. In addition, WKSF is good in forming noticeably around a curvy body, because its resistance shear deformation is lower than that of Neoprene.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.37-45
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• 2021

This study observed the release of microplastics according to washing weights and filtering conditions, measured microplastic generation rates, fiber lengths, and fiber diameters. This study attempted to present data for the development of filters that decrease microplastic generation. For test samples, polyester piled knit fabric (cut-pile) was selected, which currently has the highest amount of consumption in the clothing industry, but can easily cause marine pollution because of its low biodegradability. For test equipment, a drum washer was used and microplastics were collected using two filter pore sizes, 5 ㎛ and 20-25 ㎛. Microplastic fibers weights and lengths were measured. The results of the experiment showed the following: 1) The release of microplastics differed according to the fabric weights and washing process; 2) washing fabric weights showed a differences in the collection amount according to the filter pore size (5 ㎛, 20-25 ㎛); 3) observations of differences in the lengths of the microplastics that occur during the washing process by filter pore size were made. Fibers with shorter lengths appeared with filter pore sizes of 5㎛ in comparison to filter pore sizes of 20-25㎛. The results from this study on microplastic generation by fabric during washing, demonstrated the following conclusions that can be used to reduce the release of microplastics. First, the release of microplastics according to fabric weights and washing courses are affected by physical force. Therefore, it is necessary to reduce the amount of physical force due to water flow, increase the fabric weight, or wash the material in low temperatures. Second, in the manufacturing of washing machines, microplastic filtration can be promoted or legislatation supporting microplastic filtration can be introduced.

• Journal of Adhesion and Interface
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.16-23
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• 2007

Polyester fabrics and knits were corona treated with different current intensity (5, 10, 15, 20 A) and feeding speed (5, 10, 15 m/min). We confirmed the surface change of polyester fabrics and knits using scanning electron microscopy (SEM) and X-ray photoelectron spectrometer (XPS). And the change of physical properties through measuring the tensile strength, dry and wet bonding strength. Thermosetting reactive polyurethane hot melt adhesive was used in the adhesion of polyester fabrics and knits. Functional groups were introduced on PET fabrics and knits surface by treating the PET fabrics and knits in air atmosphere with corona discharge, and take placed unevenness, the result adhesion was improved. When consider both dry and wet bonding strength, we think that appropriate conditions in the PET fabrics corona treatment are feeding speed 10 m/min, current intensity 15 A and appropriate conditions in the mesh type PET knits corona treatment are feeding speed 10 m/min, current intensity above 10 A.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.151-166
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to examine the Russian abstract artist Kazimir Malevich's works during the period of absolutism and thereupon, suggest some knitwear designs practical, decorative and creative. For this purpose, the researcher reviewed domestic and foreign literature, dissertations and academic journals to determine the Russian abstract fine art and the significance of Kazimir Malevich's works in the history of arts and thereupon, examined Malevich's works or the champions of absolutism in terms of their geometric formative elements or forms and colors. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; First, paintings may be important motives for the contemporary costume designs, while being a major driving power for development of some original designs depending on artists' personal thoughts and expression techniques. Second, this study is deemed to suggest creative and original techniques and motive applications for fashion designs by introducing the elements of Kazimir Malevich's paintings into costume designs, and provide for an opportunity to suggest new values by combining arts and fashion. Third, the knit jacquard technique, one of the major techniques for the knit design works using Kazimir Malevich's absolutism works, is considered a tubular jacquard featuring the deepest sense of thickness. The intarsia technique is preferred in the recent trend for light fabric because it features clear background patterns and allows for thinner fabric. Lastly, it is hoped that this study will serve to expand the domain of expression by means of an art marketing or meeting between arts and fashion in our contemporary industries.

• Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.528-535
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• 2016

Two types of oleophilic acrylic prepolymers were prepared by the solution copolymerization of either ethyl acrylate (EA) or lauryl acrylate (LA) with hydroxy ethyl acrylate (HEA). For the formation of oil-absorbent materials, a mixed solution of the prepolymer and hexamethylene diisocyanate (HDI) as a cross-linker in toluene was applied to polypropylene knit velvet fabric through the conventional pad-dry-cure procedure. The gel fraction of the crosslinked resin, EA-HEA-HDI, increased with increasing feed ratio of HEA to total acrylate or HDI concentration. The oil absorbancy and retention ratio of the prepared materials were compared according to the add-on ratio of resin to fabric, and were assessed with n-decane, toluene, soybean oil, lubricant and bunker C oil as test oils. The optimal oil absorbancy of the materials were observed at around 6% of the add-on ratio for all these oils except for soybean oil. On the other hand, the oil retention ratio increased as the add-on ratio increased. Futhermore, heavier and more viscous oil generally showed higher oil retention ratios. In addition, the oil absorbancy of the materials treated with LA-HEA-HDI resin was higher than that treated with EA-HEA-HDI resin, which showed that the acrylic resins are more absorptive with increasing length of their side alkyl chain.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.1-15
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• 2017

The aim of this study is to plan a design that satisfies consumer needs by forecasting future properties following changes of gauge in basic Jacquard structure and to provide helpful data for a variety of knit-wear development. Four basic Jacquard knit samples (Normal Jacquard, Bird's eye Jacquard, Floating Jacquard, Tubular Jacquard) were selected and projected by using three types of gauges (7G, 12G, 14G) with an SES-122S type Computer Knitting machine of Shimaseiki MFG. Twelve different types of samples with Jacquards and gauges were tested on a flat table by measuring the course and wale in a 1cm area to calculate the gauge of samples. The mechanical properties of 12 types of Jacquard samples were measured using KES-FB (Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabric, Kata Tech Co. Ltd). As the result of comparing the number of patterns, courses and wales depending on the change of gauge of the basic Jacquard structure, it was observed that the number of patterns per specific length, course and wale has increased from 7G to 14G, a high-gauge. According to objective research regarding Jacquard structure, 7G Tubular Jacquard, which is low gauge, seems to be suitable for masculine design as it is heavy and thick, and has rigid and rough texture due to a high level of flexural strength and shear property. 14G Floating Jacquard, which is high gauge, seems to be suitable for feminine, silhouette design as it is light, thin, soft, flexible and has high drape. The result of this study provides a theoretical foundation for knit-wear development considering basic Jacquard structure and gauge-specific properties. This study can be used to provided directions for the development of knit industry.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.6
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• pp.776-786
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• 2016

This study intends to suggest production process of circular knitted jackets and dimensional change data of finished clothes after washing. the study provides pattern design method of circular knitted jackets by applying dimensional change. By doing so, the purpose of this study is to increase production efficiency through accurate order in consideration of loss amount of the fabrics in production. With the three fabric materials selected, this study investigated dimensional change of circular knitted jackets after sewing and washing by varying the parts to be attached to padding cloth and with or without inner lining. As for the fabric F-C (including the spandex, thicker and weightier than the other two fabrics), front width shrunk by 4.6%, which showed the biggest shrinkage among the jackets made of test fabrics. Then it suggested design methods of circular knitted jacket patterns to which dimensional change is applied according to materials, and analyzed the amount of fabric required for production by comparison of the materials. When using the fabric F-C without inner lining, there is big dimensional change and more than double amount of fabric is required. It is expected that the research results will be a basic data for pattern design and production process of circular knitted clothing.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.3 no.3
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• pp.69-78
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• 1999

The purpose of this thesis is to investigate of fabric characteristics in women's wear as reviewing the fabric trends in 1990's domestic fashion. As a method to accomplish this research, I have examined the articles related to fashion fabric and fashion trend magerzines. This study considered women's wear relatively used diverse fabrics, there was not previous study regarding the fabrics used in domestic, since the 1990's. The social fators for the 1990's fashion were the influence of the informed, the increased concern for the ecological environment, the sattlement of young popular culture, the increase of resonable consume and social anxiety. To understand the fashion trends of the 1990's women's wear, it is divided three periods. The traditional period is from 1991 to 1993, the mixed period of the naturalism and the technology is from 1994 to 1995, the retro period is from 1996 to 1999. The charateristics of the fabrics used in 1990's women's wear were the appearance of various functional fabrics, the development of new synthetic fabric with high sensitivity, the popularization of circular knit, the fabrics with a retro mood toward traditional feminine mood and the blending of fabrics. The fashion of 1990 have had the characteristics of various utilization of the materials on the base of reasonable and practical trends than the changes of design and detail.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.131-139
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• 2011

This study surveyed on the synthesis of one-step type hydrophilic non-porous PU resin and the physical property of the coated fabric for the garment. Three kinds of chain extender such as MEG, 1,4-BD and NPG were used for the preparation of one-step type hydrophilic non-porous PU resin in order to examine the effect of chain extender on the physical properties of PU-coated fabric. And the effects of isocyanate on the physical properties of PU coated fabric were surveyed by mixing with various TDI and MDI ratios. In addition, the physical properties of the coated fabric treated with one-step type hydrophilic non-porous PU resin were examined according to the pre-treatment conditions such as cire finishing. Finally, the washing durability of the coated fabrics was assessed. The coated fabrics treated with PU resin synthesized with PEG1000, MEG and TDI/MDI (6/4) showed the best physical properties. Considering the pre-treatment conditions, best performance of hydraulic pressure, water vapor permeability, and water repellency were obtained with top roller rotation ratio of 150% under 50 ton pressure at $170^{\circ}C$.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.3
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• pp.79-92
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to develop knitwear design expressed not also Green but also LOHAS using natural yarns(wool and cotton) dyed with various natural sources(sappanwood, indigo plant, turmeric, cochineal, coffee, gallnut, and persimmon juice). This researcher tried to suggest solution scheme through the development of knitwear designs to break from the cottage industry and the limitation of design in Jeju and to preserve of traditional dye with persimmon juice simultaneously. Knitting is the formation of a fabric by the interlooping of one or more sets of yarns with hand knitting or industrial knitting. In hand-knitting, the two fundamental stitches are described as knit depending on the direction of the loop formation, front to back or back to front. In machine-knitting, the direction of loop formation is fixed, unless the stitch is mechanically transferred from front to back needle bed or vice versa. Industrial knitting technology can be divided into two main areas - weft knitting and warp knitting. Each has a different principle of construction. The majority of knitted fabrics for clothing are weft-knitted, and so this study is used weft-knitting and hand knitting technology. To achieve this purpose, researcher tried to present a lot of knitwear designs using yarns dyed with various natural sources focusing on Modern & Sophisticated Image and Elegance & Romantic Image to satisfy adult and missy consumer needs.