• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.7 s.107
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• pp.115-125
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• 2006

The study on plane composition in clothing was focused mainly on woven wear earlier but its application has been reaching the knit wear. This study is confined to the utilization with geometrical linear pattern in the modern apparel. The work here intends to grasp the plane structure found in both woven wear and knit wear and, in particular, to understand the aesthetics of fashion. The modern flat patterned clothing has been affected by the oriental style or postmodernism in view of social and cultural aspect while its fabric material and expression method shows the diversity in terms of industrial and technical aspect. It can be characterized as several outstanding patterns: the geometrical pattern in structure, the linear pattern with seam line and 2-dimensional plane pattern without seam line, and the flexible silhouette integrated into one single shape with human body unlike the traditional apparel The aesthetics of fashion in modern flat patterned clothing can be divided into such category as the organically spatial change, the re-creation of tradition and the non-format framework. The organically spatial change shows the geometrical formation in clothes due to change in dimension, where the organically changing uniformity and generosity appears as the dimension progresses. The timeless without any difference of up and down, left and right, and inside and outside and the discontinuity due to limitless spatial change are also imbedded. The re-creation of tradition tells the reshaped spirits of old tradition by integrating and modifying the hereditary features in the old customed clothing into modern clothing. The modern flat patterned clothing implies the contemporaneousness or the frame through which the old and modern cultures may be shared and indicates the re-creation of the past and uniformity. The non-format framework contains the uncertainty in meaning and it doesn't have any certain standards. As both the apparel and the human body with this style aim at the open space, the numerous contingencies are realized.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.122-134
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• 2011

The peanut-shaped cloth diaper has cut uncomfortable crotch region off the square-shaped cloth diaper into a peanut-shape, and finished the edge by bias with multi-layers of fabric. This study has the purpose on providing the basic data for designing the peanut-shaped cloth diaper. For this purpose, the peanut-shaped cloth diapers on market were collected and analyzed by their shape and size, and also the patterns and differences in making were compared. 26 products from 17 brands were collected as samples. The analysis factors are the shape and size of the peanut-shaped cloth diaper, and characteristics and patterns in making. Among the samples, only 3 diapers were straight-shaped; the rest of them were peanut-shaped. The size difference between the big and small peanut-shaped cloth diapers was very large; the total length of the small one was 36.5cm-39cm which was very common, and the total length of the big one was more than 44cm. All diapers had longer width in the back than the front. The width of the front and back was different for each sample, therefore, it seemed to have some difficulties to set the standard. The peanut-shaped cloth diaper had different make-up depending on its characteristics including. absorbance, washing and drying. It was usually made by cotton woven of diamond jacquard or knit, and finished the edge by woven bias or knit bias. The peanut-shaped cloth diapers were various including a sheet of diaper, two sheets of diapers fixed with velcro, three sheets of diapers, and etc. For the patterns of the diapers, only two samples out of all had three dimensional shape, and the rest were produced using flat shape. There were no distinction between the diapers of girls and boys. Therefore, it is necessary to make the product based on scientific data about the peanut-shaped cloth diaper.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.49-58
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• 2015

This paper investigated far-infrared emission characteristics of ZrC imbedded heat storage knitted fabrics for emotional garment. For this purpose, ZrC imbedded heat storage PET was spun with high viscosity PET imbedded ZrC powder on the core part and low viscosity PET on the sheath part by conjugated spinning method. Ingredient analysis and far-infrared emission characteristics assessment of spun filament were carried out by EDS and FT-IR spectrometer. Two kinds of knitted fabrics were made using texturized ZrC imbedded PET for measuring thermal characteristics of ZrC imbedded heat storage PET. Zr peak was certified by EDS measurement and it was confirmed that content of Zr was 19.29%. Far-infrared analysis revealed that emission power at the range of wavelength, $5{\sim}20{\mu}m$ was $3.65{\times}10^2W/m^2$, and emissivity was 0.906. Heat storage analysis by KES-F7 system revealed that $Q_{max}$ of ZrC imbedded PET knitted fabric was lower than that of regular PET one and warmth keepability rate was higher than that of regular one, which means that ZrC imbedded PET knitted fabric has heat storage property. Thermal conductivity of ZrC imbedded PET knitted fabric was higher than that of regular PET one which was caused by high thermal conductivity of Zr itself. Hand property of ZrC imbedded knitted fabric was not inferior compared to regular PET knitted fabric, which preferably was found to be dependent on knit structure and surface property.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.3 s.56
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• pp.406-413
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• 2005

This study performed the evaluation of skin temperature, heart rate, temperature and relative humidity of microclimate, and subjective sensation, such as thermal sensation, wet sensation and comfort sensation to estimate physiological responses of the human body and its comfortable feeling to the vitamin E fabric. Experiments were performed on the five healthy adult women whose average age was 21, at climate chamber in which temperature, relative humidity and air current were set up below $30{\pm}\;1^{\circ}C$, $50{\pm}\;15\%$ and 0.2m/s, respectively. Two kinds of clothes were used for experiments: unfinished sports clothes, with the same form and the same size, of short-sleeved knit shirt and long trousers made with $100\%$ cotton, and finished sports clothes printed with the vitamin E solution of the level of $0.88\%$. Exercises of walking (about 105 steps/minute) with the exercise intensity of 2.5 were performed for 20 minutes using treadmill. In result, the study showed significant difference (p<0.01) in average skin temperature between unfinished and finished sport clothes, and represented higher value with having unfinished sport clothes in wear than with finished one. The study also showed significant difference (p<0.01) in heart rate only during the period of exercise, and represented higher value generally with unfinished sport clothes than with finished one. There were significant differences not only in temperature of microclimate (p<0.01) but also in humidity of microclimate (p<0.05) between two sport clothes. As for the evaluation of subjective sensation, the study showed significant difference (p<0.05) in thermal sensation between the two kinds of sport clothes, significant difference in wet sensation only during the period of exercise, and significant difference (p<0.05) in comfort sensation only during the period of recovery.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.6
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• pp.856-865
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• 2011

This paper intends to examine how Fringe, which is in an inseparable relationship with modern fashion, has been changed and what characteristics it is expressed to have in fashion on the basis of its formative property expressed in modern fashion. In order to empirically analyze Fringe, this paper analyzed a total of 346 Fringe of every type that were generally found in the worldis four biggest collections, from 2006S/S to 2011S/S. This paper found some methods Fringe is made, which are: using a snagged fabric or knit as it is; intentionally snagging or tearing a fabric to make the effect of being snagged; knotting the tail or the edge of clothes, and then, macram$\grave{E}$; and cutting leather or suede, which canit be snagged easily, and making Fringe strands. Fringe strands which are made in the above ways are made into a band and then, attached, or Fringe strands, a feathers, a comb, or beads are attached one by one. Or a tassel is independently or consecutively applied to clothes or ornaments, which are expressed in the form of fringes. Threads, strings, leather, suede, metals, plastics, raffia, horsehair, paper, beads, pearls, crystals, or felt were used for rich texture or unique visual effects. Colors of various brightness and chromas were used in consideration of materials. Through the effects of sameness, similarity, contrast, harmony and gradation with colors of clothes, emphasis or unified harmony was expressed. The expressive characteristics of Fringe, which were found in the modern fashion through those formative characteristics, were organic rhythmical beauty, handicraft decorative beauty, and folksy natural beauty.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.33-43
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to eximine the effect of different yam twisting methods on mechanical properties and 3D CAD images of plain knitted fabrics made of composite yarns. Six yams were used in this study: four different composite yams of the six consist of acetate and functional polyester (Poly-m) with the ratio of 70:30, and the rest two are the original acetate $100\%$ yam and the poly-m $100\%$ yarn. The four kinds of composite yarns were processed in combinations of twisting processes such as interlacing, false twisting, two for one twisting, combined twisting and single covering, and the two original yams were knitted without any twisting process. Sixteen mechanical properties of all the six knitted fabrics, knitted under the same knitting conditions, were measured by KES-FB system with the outer knit condition. The results were as follows; 1) When the sample applied with the false twisting process at the temperature as high as $220^{\circ}C$, ENT, B, HB, G and RC values of samples increased which leads to increasing dimensional stability. 2) To gain the high bending and shear properties in the single covering process, selecting the core yarn with such properties is the most important factor. 3) Interlacing process effected to increase RC value. 4) False twisting process after interlacing process gave bulkiness and un-interlaced part in yam was increased SMD value. The SMD value of the kilted fabric of the composite yarn, which was put through the combined twist process, was higher than those of which simple process such as the two for one twist or the single covering process applied. In order to achieve the silk-like surface feel of knitted fabric, the sin91e covering process is recommended. 5) Examining the simulation images of the knifed fabrics of composite yarn, which were generated by the 3D CAD system based on the mechanical properties of the fabric, led that appearance could be changed as different twisting methods were applied.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.103-111
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• 2004

The shrinkproof-finished wool fibers treated with resin coating and chlorination methods were used to find out an optimal shrinkproof finishing method keeping the quality properties of wool fabric to manufacturers. Shrinkage during repeated washing, electrostatic propensity, thermal resistance and pilling propensity of shrinkproof-finished wool knits, and analysis of finishing methods were measured. Upon the results from the surface examination of shrinkproof-finished wool fibers, the patterns of scale layer and degree of scale removal were subject to change according to the finishing processes. The shrink resistance was significantly enhanced on repeated washing of shrinkproof-finished knits, especially, chlorinated wool. Addition of strong physical force and alkali detergent applied in this washing experiment brought about superior effects with the low shrinkage rate although it was very severe washing conditions for wool fabrics. The results from the washing experiment implies that shrinkproof-finished knitted fabrics can be machine washed at individual households with other ordinary laundry. There was some changes and variation found in thermal resistance, electrostatic propensity, and pilling, however, it seems to be minor within standard limits. Therefore, shrinkproof-finished knitted fabrics did not bring serious changes to other physical properties comparing with original wool, which helps consumers handle wool knitted clothes more conveniently.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.1-11
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• 2013

This study analyzed the expressive characteristics of padding in contemporary fashion. The methodology of this study was quantified through documentaries, fashion collections, and internet news. The results of expressive characteristics and methods were as follow. First, variability showed the creation of dwelling space by air filling, detail mode by zipper, and diversity of recycled filling by zipper pocket. It reflected the pursuit of nomadism and subversion of permanence by change of filling. Second, it was sexual symbolicity that showed the blurred androgynous silhouette by air filling and padding bar design of the chest, stomach, shoulder for the male body silhouette. It emphasized male sexual identity and power through the expression of a modern ideal body. Third, decoration displayed various crafts (such as knitting), various fabric such as polapolis, suedette, corduroy, denim, leather, knit, and spangle. It reflected visual pleasure, scarcity and various interpretations. Fourth, playfulness character forms throug hair filling, unfamiliar fashion items, diversity of silhouette and change of uses. It reflected a pleasant feeling through astonishment and surprise, nostalgia involved in memory and childhood play and disembarrassment from reality. Fifth, simplicity showed the elimination of a sportswear's factor with regular wad quilting, elimination of wad quilting, wad quilting following the structural line of clothes and the structual line of clothes omitted. It reflected disembarrassment from stereotype and an emphasis on essential elements.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.85-98
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• 2013

Fabric industry has been developing enough to introduce diverse stretch materials to apparel market, so that tightly fitting leggings designs are taking over not only sports wear but also women's clothing. This study is aimed at developing prototype designs for leggings pants using stretch material that are appropriate for the lower part of body being functional, comfortable, and beautiful. As well, the study is intended to be of a reference in manufacturing such products. Some of the most popular leggings on the market in their kinds and materials were primarily selected to be tested in two ways: wear test and appearance test. Again, the test pants went through the same kinds of two tests, which turned out two designs. Finally, the test pants were treated to yield the most desirable prototype design. In conducting all these tests, some major defects causing discomfort and shortcomings of the leggings pants on the market were exposed and through the wear tests, the drawbacks were seen to be complemented in a big way. Thus, it is hopefully expected that this study will serve as a good reference for developing stretch pants.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.6 s.59
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• pp.934-945
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• 2005

The purpose of this study was to investigate the content and presentation style of consumer information of Korean young casual apparel brand. To collect the data for this study, the representative 25 casual brand web sites were selected, based on major search engines. In addition, to investigate exact product information, four product categories, knit shirts and casual pants for men and women, were selected and the number of products was limited as maximum 15 products per each category. A coding instrument was developed to capture the consumer information, based on the instrument by Park and Stoel(2002). The Pretest was conducted to gauge inter-coder reliability and the results showed that inter-coder reliability was highly acceptable. The results of this study were as follows. Most casual brand web sites for this study were presented well in brand and customer service information. Especially, many web sites provided various engaging information such as various events(best dresser contest, date with a star, special gift) and useful multimedia file(MP3 music file, screen saver, movie, calender). However, product information was very lack in most web sites. Especially, sizing and fitting information and textile and fabric hand information were rarely provided. Therefore, this result showed that the web sites should provide more specific product information and develop devices to get tactile sensory and experiential information for enhancement of future e-commerce of apparel products.