• Title/Summary/Keyword: Kisaeng

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The Effects of Kisaeng's Clothes on General Women's Fashion in the Late Choson Dynasty (조선후기 기여복식이 일반부녀자 복식에 미친 영향)

  • 김나형;김용서
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.39
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    • pp.113-123
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    • 1998
  • This study focuses on the effects of the clothes worn by kisaeng; courtesans trained in singing and dancing, on changes in female psychology as reflected in general women's fashions during the later years of the Chosun dynasty. During this period, the social order had broken down considerable, due in part to the introduction of Roman Catholicism, and in part to the actions of Sil-hak, who emphasized open-ness and practicality in the organization of social affairs. This freer social environment disrup-ted the established social hierarchies. The kisaeng were among the first to respond to the new social mores by adopting more colorful, sensual, and individualized fashions. Their social position allowed them to reflect the new aesthetics of the time right away. Those aesthetics seemed to lay great emphasis on the artistic effects of contrast. The kisaeng would adorn their heads with large Kache (an elaborate wig or hairdo typically reserved for use by women in full formal dress). In contrast to this conspicuous hairstyle, they typically wore very tight-fitting Jogori (short-cropped Korean traditional jackets for women) around their upper torsos. The long skirts emerging from beneath these short jackets would typically flare out dramatically, with the aid of petticoats. However, these skirts would be bound at the waist with a sash, increasing the sexual suggestiveness of the clothing by drawing at-tention to the hips, and by exposing the bottom frills of the petticoats, or the wide pantal-oons and other undergarments the kisaeng wore to add volume to their skirts. The relative freedom enjoyed by the kisaeng to experiment with new fashions was not widely shared by most women. This generated envy from women of the noble classes, who were more bound by convention, and restrained from adopting such a mode of dress. It also generated envy from women of the humble classes, who saw the kisaeng as working little for their wealth, and yet dressing every day in finery that the average women would only ever be able to afford on her wedding day. This envy directed at the relative freedom/wealth of the kisaeng by women who faced greater socioeconomic constraints was given cultural expression through the adoption of elements of the kisaeng's fashion in the fashions of both noblewomen and humble women in old korea. The luxurious Kache sported by the kisaeng had in fact been borrowed from the habitual attire of upper-class women. So to distinguish themeselves from the kisaeng, they began to abandon these elaborate hairstyles in favor of traditional ceremonial hoods (Nel-ul-a thin black women's hood) and coronets (Suegaechima). This supposed reaction to the abuse of the Kache by the kisaeng still remained influenced by the kisaeng still remained influence by the kisaeng, however, as these headdresses became adorned with many more jewels and decorations, in imitation of the kisaeng's adaptations of the coronet. At the same time, noblewomen began sporting the Jangwue ; a headdress previously worn only by kisaeng and lower class women, and lower class women were then permitted to wear the Kache at weddings. All women behan to wear shorter, tighter Jogori jackets, and to add volume to their skirts. They also attached frills to their under-garments in imitation of the kisaeng's exposed petticoats and pantaloons. The impact of kisaeng fashions was thus deep and widespread, and can be understood as an expression of women's longing for freedom from socioeconomic constraints in the late Chosun dynasty. This study adopts an interdisciplinary ap-proach to the understanding of historical changes in women's fashions. Such interdisciplinary work can greatly enrich the study of fashion, often narrowly focused on clothing morphology and broad generalizations about society. For this reason, specific dynamics of feminine psychology in the late Chosun dynasty were elaborated in this study, to provide a deeper under-standing of the changes in fashion underpinned by them. If more such detailed analyses are undertaken, a whole new understanding of changes in fashion can be generated, and perhaps a transformation of the field of fashion history can be ultimately achieved.

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Hu Kyoon and Maechang of Sijo (허균과 매창의 시조)

  • Kim Myung-Hee
    • Sijohaknonchong
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    • v.22
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    • pp.115-142
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    • 2005
  • Woman is individual than social. passive than active and defensive than offensive. In addition. they taught that these characters are femine in the middle ages and the feudal ages. The closed and limited society was common to women in the feudal society. But there were many classes in women society from the humble maids to the queen in Chosun Dynasty. And Kisaeng(a singing and dancing girl) was free in comparison with the noble women. But Kisaeng were also limited as woman. They could write literary works according to the playing with poems and something like that with the men of intellectual class. But this also gave them sorrows. In the feudal Chodun Dynasty. men recognized the noble women specially and this is the special quality of Chosun. The Confucianism which was the existense thought of Chosun. discriminated between men and women. But women studied secretly and wrote poems pouring their thoughts and emotions. Maechang wrote many Shijo (Korean verse) with the delicacy description and the real expression. The reason Chosun woman Maechang could wrote Shijo which is free from the feudal limitations is that she was Kisaeng, She had a love as a Kisaeng who had to play with the intellectual men. But she loved Yu hee-kyoung. So she preserved chastity for him and waited only him. This is the love of both body and soul. And love with Hu kyoon friendship which is far from love. The limited love because of the spatial parting and the discrepancy of the social position is the most sorrowful. 10 years love with the intellectual men such as Hu kyoon is a friendship with poems. It was not love, so they had to temperate. So they love each other as a literary friend. We can see the feminist Hu kyoon, and see Hu kyoon who loved the literature and assert the renovation. Maechang was free from the chastity but she preserved it because of her proud. She dreamed the fairyland as Hunansulhun. Because she couldn't realize love. She ended her literature and Kisaeng life at 38 years old. There are literature of nansulhun as a noble woman and of rnaschang as a Kisaeng in Chosun Dynasty.

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The historical significance on the dance activity of Kim Jung yeon. - Centered around Korea dance illustrated guide - (김정연의 춤 활동에 관한 무용사적 의의 - 『한국무용도감』을 중심으로 -)

  • LEE, Jeong Noh;LEE, Ju-Hee
    • (The) Research of the performance art and culture
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    • no.33
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    • pp.303-328
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    • 2016
  • This paper identifies the life of Kim Jung Hyun who was so called kisaeng, a beauty and entertainer in modern times and serves as the study considering what kinds of dances she played going through modern times and the significance works in Korea Dance illustrated guide bear in terms of dance history. Kim Jung Yun who was designated as an important intangible cultural asset for her Korean traditional narrative song in the northwestern provinces (Number twenty-nine. designated in 1971) devoted herself to Korean classical music area after having been designated as cultural asset and became a stranger in dance area. However, in Kisaeng call-office, she had been estimated to learn dancing under the great dancer, Lee Jang Sin, and make efforts on dance activity until the early 1960's. Her works derived from such learning and creation activity came to be part of Korea Dance Illustrated Guide. This study aimed at studying Kim Jung Yun in addition to her works who had not received attention so far but worked on positive lines and made a significant accomplishment in modern dance history in order to reveal her importance status in modern dance history.

About the Costumes and Its Ornaments with Court's Courtesy and Manners - Based on the Official and Historical Book, "Jun, Ri Eui Kwae" - (정조(正祖)의 현륭원(顯隆園) 행차시(行次時)의 궁중의예복식고(宮中儀禮服飾考) - "정리의궤(整理儀軌)"를 중심(中心)으로 -)

  • Cho, Hyo-Soon
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.5
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    • pp.113-140
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    • 1981
  • "Jung Ri Eui Kwae" is the book, illustrated and recorded with court coutesy and manners during the King, Jung Jo's honoured coming to his own father's royal tomb "Hyun Ryung Won" of Sa Do Seh Ja(The Crown Prince to be mourned) with his own mother Hae Kyung Koong Mrs. Hong. According to this book, we can see the costumes and its ornaments of the civil and military officials and also of Yu Ryung(the maden court musician) and Dong Ki (a young Kisaeng girl) during serving at Bong Soo Dang bangquet celebrating his own mother's 60th birthday anniversary. It is interesting to review once more the royal ceremonies representing the portion of the costumes and its ornaments in the 18th century of the Yi Dynasty, Yung-Jung Jo era that is to be thought the reform period in almost every field of social system.

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The Impact of Clothings of Kisaengs in the later Choson (조선후기의 기녀 복식이 사회에 미친 영향)

  • Kim, Hye-Young
    • The Journal of Natural Sciences
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    • v.8 no.2
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    • pp.289-321
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    • 1996
  • After the two big wars (Imjin Woeran and Byungia Horan), the Lee Dynasty confronted rapid transitional periods in almost all aspects of the society. Corruption of the governmental system by the wars and disordered social structures also caused confusion in the social position system. In addition, development of the commercial economic system and monetary economy brought up a new rich middle-class, "Joong in Gyegeup". In ideological aspects, Confucianism indulged in and stick to isms and ics, and the Confucian morality slackened, thus a more pragmatic ideology, "Silhak Sasang", developed. And the emergence of the modern literature and art of the 'common people' was followed by the appearance of the common-people class including those having the common-people concept among the noble-class "Yangban Gyegeup". This evoked a new common costume culture and the fashion appeared. The public could no longer find the power and appeal from the preexisting ruling classes due to the changed role and sense of value. Thus, they sought a new symbolic leader group that would to be the new standard of the newly changed society. That was a group of people called as "Kisaeng" liberal and independent. They were performing social activities, enjoying poetry, music and dancing, and classy dressers, having physically attractive bodies. The erotic as well as luxurious mode proposed by them reflected the trend of that time. It concurred well with the concept and taste of the public, so it was accepted with a good response. That is, by following these leaders, the public achieved their identification and tried to share the prestige of the leaders. For this reason, the Kisaeng group attracted the public attention and led the taste of the public, thereby becoming the influential fashion leaders of that age.

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The Research of Costume on Shin, Yun-Bok's Painting in Late Chosun Dynasty

  • Lee, Young-Jae
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.14 no.3
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    • pp.52-63
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    • 2010
  • The Hanryu(韓流) phenomenon in and around Asia looks like slowing down lately. At that time, the research about contents that can inform the high traditional culture of Korea is useful. The references which can make a study about cultural clothes, especially paintings, let us to infer the life of the people of that period. In this research, I try to study the characteristics of customs, symbol and costumes by analyzing the paintings of Shin, Yun-Bok who was genre painter of the late Chosun. The mens are wearing dopo(道袍) and are putting sejodae(細條帶) around their waists and gat(黑笠). Also, We can see many different types of job such police, official man, a buddhist priest, a barmair, kisaeng and shaman through the costume. Most of women in the paintings, They are wearing Deep blue skirts, banhwoejang pale tone jeogori and tress. We discussed the common lives of the people through genre painting. They have satire, humor, and symbolism. Also, we can look into the various lifestyles, customs of times and seasons, ceremonial occasions, civilian beliefs, and plays ransmitted from the past. The philosophy in Shin, Yun- Bok's genre painting, is close to Taoism not Confucianism.

A Study on Stage Costume Design for Opera $\ll$Whangjinie$\gg$ - Focusing on Inner Image of Whangjinie - (오페라 $\ll$황진이(黃眞伊)$\gg$의 무대의상(舞臺衣裳) 디자인 연구(硏究) - 황진이(黃眞伊)의 내적(內的) 이미지를 중심(中心)으로 -)

  • Shin, Kyeong-Seub
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.4 no.2
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    • pp.127-140
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    • 2000
  • The purpose of this study was to research and design stage costumes of Whangjinie focusing on inner image of Whangjinie, present stage costumes of new image. Four steps were taken in order to achieve this purpose. The first step was to investigate the old documents and prior research about literature world of Whangjinie. The second step was to analyze stage costumes of Whangjinie which were worn in opera, movie. The third step was to design and make the stage costumes according to new images Whangjinie which were extracted from above two research results. The new images of Whangjinie are as follows 1. Whangjinie as a kisaeng(professional entertainer) She thirsted for new, materialistic love though she failed in love everytime. 2. Whangjinie as a woman. She had a hard time by feeling an irresistible yearning for lover 3. Whangjinie as a poet. She expressed as a poetry her vanity and loneliness of life. Using above three images, this study designed four new stage costumes of Whangjinie and two designs of them were made really. But this study didn't present historic costume of her age but expressed modern mood in color and form.

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A Study on the Japanese Style Expressed in the Movie 'Memoirs of a Geisha' (영화 <게이샤의 추억:Memoirs of a Geisha>에 표현된 일본풍(日本風) 연구(硏究))

  • Ko, Young-Sook;Cho, Kyu-Hwa
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.57 no.5 s.114
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    • pp.12-32
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    • 2007
  • This study aims at investigating Geisha costume hidden in the history until now and how the fashion of Geisha style is expressed in accordance with character through the movie 'Memoirs of a Geisha'. Major contents of the text consist of studies including the historical background and characteristics of Geisha costume in Chapter 2, the Japanese style expressed in the movie through the analysis of the work in Chapter 3, The movie brought in an opportunity to spread the mysterious culture and art of Japan to the world, making Japanese style an important interest in the world of fashion as well. In a way to study this, the investigation was carried out through literature data, DVD and newspaper of , fashion magazine, articles from the Internet, ete. The Geisha trend has made the hot blast blown harder in such ways to affect not only fashion but also cosmetics, electronic appliance, interior, etc. In S/S 2006, it was not limited to the Japanese style but diffused to the Orientalism in China, India, Korea, etc. It can be said that this study has its significance to be a starting point in investigating the special characters of Japanese Geisha costume hidden up to now. In the studies following in the future, the formative beauty demonstrated per Japanese designer needs to be more studied. Furthermore, it seems noteworthy to analyze and compare Chosun Dynasty's Kisaeng with Japanese Geisha.

A study on the transitional process of clothes in modern Korean women (한국현대여성복식제도(韓國現代女性服飾制度)의 변천과정연구(變遷過程硏究))

  • Nam, Yun-Suk
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.14
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    • pp.99-117
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    • 1990
  • The purpose of this study was to investigate the change of clothes in modem Korean women in terms of a socioeconomical background, the introduction to western clothes, and the improvement of clothes between the opening period of ports in the early 1900's and 1960's. In addition, the study investigated how western clothes became popular in a Korean society along with the traditional' Korean clothes, Hanbok. The radical social change since the opening of ports motivated the change in the way of Korean women's thinking, and consequenty the improvement of Hanbok which developed into the clothes-improvement-movement. It was not until 1905 that the improvement of clothes was hotly debated particularly in the matter of abolishing Jangeui and the extreme length of Jeogori and Chima. The Tongchima-Jeogori style which lengthened Jeogori and shortened Chima was widely accepted as everyday wear until the western clothes substituted them after the Independence from Japanese Conquest. As the length of Chima shortened, there occurred a change in Boson and Jipsin as well. There appeared shoes and Gomoosin in place of Jipsin, socks in stead of Boson and were popularized until after the Liberation in 1945. The popularity of Gomoosin diminished markedly with the diversification of shoes styles, due to the improvement of the standard of living with economic development in the 1960's. The traditional Hanbok was gradually differentiated according to the social status, for instance student, teachers, ordinary women, girls and Kisaeng. Especially since the white clothes caused much trouble in washing and sewing, there came into being the movement of wearing colorful clothes. The Movement of abolishing white clothes and promoting of wearing colorful clothes was enforced during the period of Japaness conquest from the 1920's to the Liberation, which consequently stimulated an interest for colors of clothes. The period under the war between 1937 and 1945 was especially noted for the extreme regulation over the clothes. The Japanese government forced each group of women, e.g., girl students, a young women's association, school teachers, and ordinary women and girls, to wear their own uniforms. Also, It recommended the use of Tongchima in stead of long skirts, and buttons in place of Coreum so as to conserve textile encouraging the use of other substitutes to save resources. The western clothes, a model of clothe's improvement was deemed as a symbol of modernization and enjoyed general popularity. The supply of relief clothes after the Korean war accelerated the expansion of western clothes even further and the trend of westernization along with economic progress in the 1960's resulted in wearing of western clothes as everyday dress. The expansion of western clothes as casual wear rapidly diminished wearing of Hanbok which in turn took the position of ceremonial dress worn in special cases only. Hence the Korean women's clothes were dualized into traditional Hanbok and western clothes and the western clothes that stems on its convenience was settled as everyday wear where as the Hanbok appeared as ceremonial dress stressing on ornamental features. As mentioned aboved, we are able to discovered an orientation in the course of transitional process of modern Korean women's clothes admist diversified changes, which is a consistent pursuit of convenience and practicality based upon progmatism. The trend such as this carne into a finale' as women's dress became dualistic in forms of Hanbok and western clothes, and the change since then is supposed to proceed in two forms of dress featuring its own style.

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Enjoyment Methods of Traditional Theater Performances in the Early 20th Century (20세기초 극장무대 전통공연물의 향유방식)

  • Jeong, Choong-Kwon
    • Journal of Korean Classical Literature and Education
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    • no.38
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    • pp.103-138
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    • 2018
  • This study examines the modern succession, transformation and significance of enjoyment methods of classical literature (art) with a focus on the characteristics of those methods that appeared when the performances of the traditional era began to be displayed on the stage of the theaters in modern Seoul. The clues to the reasons for this type of enjoyment can be found in newspapers, magazine articles, and advertisements from the early 20th century. The emergence of stage theaters at the beginning of the modern era caused a sweeping change in the performance environment, including the fact that it was possible for all kinds of people to enjoy art beyond the existing socioeconomic hierarchies or barriers of status, that the performers were given employment through the theater, and that the audience had the tendency of the general public of an unspecified number because the audience was able to see the performances only by paying the viewing fee. The way of enjoying traditional performances also changed based on these new adaptations: the performances were sequential, show-oriented, and re-contextualized as public performances. It is significant that in the traditional era, performers and audiences had been segregated according to their status and a strict hierarchy; now, such cultural norms were breaking down in favor of a kind of equality. In addition, it was possible for the audience to experience sensory enjoyment, and theater brought about a new kind of popular consumer enjoyment of an artistic product. Of course, though, it is possible to look back and find problems related to the contemporary context, but the traditional performances, which were the main performances for the lower class, took the first place on the modern theater stage, and as a result, no one can deny that it became possible to move forward in the first phase of an era of public performance.