• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.95-105
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• 2015

This study investigated the color culture in the Japanese Medieval Age. The Japanese Medieval Age included the Kamakura period (1180-1333) and Muromachi period (1336-1573), and the leading group transitioned from the Kuge families to the Buke families. The taboos about colors from ancient times became nominal, and forbidden colors, such as purple, celadon, and red, became the colors of the samurai, leading to beautiful soldier gears that were unparalleled in history. In the Kamakura period, colors that conveyed a strong impression were created and preferred with the combination of a samurai's reasonable spirit and zen thoughts. The period was also called "the era of hari", and cross dyeing based on basic colors such as suou (red), ai (blue), and kuchinasi (yellow) was popular. In both the Kamakura and Muromachi periods, conspicuous and strong colors were sought for costumes, and embroidery was used with gold leaf, silver leaf, gold threads, silver threads, and background color. The colors of costume preferred by Buke men in the period included green, blue, and brown. In the characteristics of the kosode, the sugan and hitadare were used for men's formal dress, while kosode was used for the grooming of the working class. In these periods, additionally, the working class began to be socially engaged in actively wearing the one-layer kosode, which became popular, and the characteristics of the Japanese Medieval Age, during which functionality and practicality was valued, were also reflected in the dressing.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.3 no.4
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• pp.337-343
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• 2001

This study was purposed to see how men's hair styles of Japan had changed throughout history and results of the study was as follows. There are such evidences as topknots in its primitive styles and wooden combs that several hair styles were tried already in the primitive Jomon Period. In the Yayoi period, bare topknot style without crowns and Mizura style in which hair drop down both ears were popular. In the period of ancient burial mounds, Mizura style was dominative style and varied its form and shape according to classes and status. In the Aska and Nara era, topknot-in-the-crown style in which hair bound in one as in continental style and put in crown or hood, which style was influenced by the Sui and the Tang periods of China. Since the Heian period, topknot-in-the-Ebosi style, binding style, and Karawa style as well as topknot-in-the-crown style came in sight and Sakayaki style became popular in the Kamakura and Muromachi periods. In the Momoyama period, Chasenmage style and Ichomage style were spread widely. In the early Edo era, Wakashumage style and Yaromage style as well as Ichomage style were preferred. In the middle of Edo era in which form and shape of topknot was more distinct symbol of class, status and job than in any other period, Tachmach style under the influence of the Punkin and Honda modes. Sonno style was popular in the late Edo era. There was a drastic disappearance of topknot style by the hair-cutting order during the Meiji Restoration period and civilized hair style of the Jankiri style, a kind of dishevelled hair style without making a topknot was in fashion and continued to the present.

• KOMUNHWA
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• no.70
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• pp.133-161
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• 2007

It is judged that celadons with '○' pattern and '⊙' pattern have the indication of manufacturer by engraving mark at the internal center of the bottom. These celadons were produced at No.8.23.27 kiln sites located at Sadang-ri(사당리), Daegu-myon(대구면), Gangjin-gun(강진군), Jeollanamdo(전라남도), Korea and '⊙’ patterned celadon porcelain was found only at No. 23 and 27 kiln sites, so it is assumed that its production sites were limited. Kinds of celadons included bowl, dish, cup, bottle, case and vessel for emptied wine and there were a lot of dishes with a variety of patterns. These celadons were engraved by molded design technique using the same ceramic design as the pattern of celadons in the period of their prosperity and it was appropriate method to produce celadons of a good quality with production method to keep decorative design like pattern or size uniformly. It was also found that inlay method was not universalized in this period and similar celadons were produced with molded design in large quantities. These celadons had partially fire clay temper, but most of them were burnt by supporting the inner bottom of U-type base with quartzite after whole glazing. It was known through relics excavated at Seokreung(석릉) royal tomb of King Heejong(희종) at Ganghwa(강화) and Hyeeumwon(혜음원) temple site at Paju(파주) and military house at Wakamiyaoji(약궁대로) avenue Kamakura(겸창)-city, Japan(일본) that these celadons were manufactured at two quarters of the 13th century centering around 1230s. Therefore, these celadons will be significant materials to fill the gap of the celadons in the 13th century resulted from the record chronologically that green celadons were manufactured in the 12th century. And this period was invaded by Mongolia(몽고), but central control was achieved and green celadons were continuously produced. It was also considered that these celadons were excavated at Gabgot-ri(갑곶리) and Gwanchung-ri(관청리), Ganghwa(강화), Hyeeumwon temple, Paju which played the role of temporary palace, Bu1guksa(불국사) temple at Gyeongju(경주), Silsangsa(실상사) temple at Namwon(남원) and relics of Jangheung(장흥) adjacent to Daeguso(대구소) and these were produced for high class.