• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.25-33
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• 2004

This study surveys the fabric surface properties such as mean value of the friction coefficient(MIU), mean deviation of the friction coefficient(MMD) and mean deviation of surface roughness(SMD) due to warp and weft tension differences using KES-FB system. For this purpose, fabric is designed as 5 harness Satin weave using 75d/36f warp and 100d/192f weft polyester filaments, and is woven by OmegaR rapier loom by Textec Co.Ltd and Picanol-GTXR rapier loom by Picanol Co.Ltd respectively. These grey fabrics are processed on the same dyeing and finishing processes. The fabric surface properties according to the weaving looms are analysed with warp and weft weaving tensions. And also surveyed the difference of fabric surface properties according to the fabric positions such as center and each edge of fabrics for the sensitive garment.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.8
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• pp.958-968
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• 2003

The purpose of this study was to clarify the different mechanical properties of fabrics among the theme groups classified by fashion fabric trend. This study can be useful for fabric marketers and planners to design new products. In order to carry out this study, the fabric samples of representative theme for‘2002/03 F/W fashion fabric trend were collected from a fashion company and were measured to analyze the mechanical properties, hand value(H.V) and total hand value(T.H.V) by KES-FB System. The results were as follows. 1. The theme-A of‘Luxury, Elegance’was consisted of wool, rayon and PET and had a lower B, 2HB of bending properties and a lower G and 2HG5 of shear properties. The theme-B of‘Technical, Functional’was consisted of synthetic fibers such as PET, PA, PU and elastic fiber and had a higher MIU and a lower MMD, SMD of surface properties. The theme-C of‘Vintage, Aged’was consisted of mostly cotton and had the highest B and 2HB. The theme-D of‘Fancy, Airy’was consisted of mostly woolen wool, polyacryl and polyamide and had a high MMD and SMD of surface properties and a high LC and RC of compression properties. 2. As the results of analyzing H.V and T.H.V through KES-FB system, the theme-A showed a higher Smoothness and lower Stiffness. The theme-B had a lower Smoothness, Fullness, Soft feeling and T.H.V and the theme-C had the highest Stiffness. The theme-D showed the highest Fullness and Soft Feeling but the lowest Stiffness.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.9_10 s.157
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• pp.1485-1493
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• 2006

This study was to investigate the effect of different scouring methods on mechanical properties and appearance of lyocell. Two different scouring methods were adopted for the study; one was the traditional scouring with alkali and the other was enzymatic scouring. Enzymatic scouring was carried with four different enzymes; C1 : Cellusoft L, C2 : Cellusoft UL, D1 : Denimax 992L, D2 : Denimax Acid XCL. The mechanical properties of scoured lyocell were measured using KES-FB. The appearance of scoured samples was analyzed by 3D CAD SYSTEM of i-Designer. While the untreated fabric showed the best linearity because it is stiff, alkali treated samples showed the worst dimensional stability and distorted easily. Enzyme treated samples, especially C1 treated samples showed the best dimensional stability. In addition, enzyme treated samples showed low bending rigidity compared to the alkali treated samples. It means that the enzyme treated samples are more flexible than alkali treated samples. However, the smoothness of the sample's surface treated by either of methods did not show much difference. From the study, it was suggested that the enzymatic scouring for lyocell could help to gain natural silhouette.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.18 no.3 s.88
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• pp.49-58
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to examine the effect of covering yarn's twist on mechanical properties of knitted fabrics of composite yarns with single covering process. Four yarns that were used in this study: two different composite yarns made from the four kinds of cotton and functional polyester-(Poly-A) with the ratio of 52:48, and the rest two yarns are the original cotton 100% yarn and the poly-A 100% yarn. The two kinds of composite yarns, CP1 and CP2, were processed on the single covering process. CP1 was applied on the single covering process with S-800 tpm, where Poly-A was used as covering yarn and cotton was used as core yarn. CP2 was applied on the same process as CP1 except that Poly-A had been applied on the two-for-one twisting process with S-400 tpm on the previous step. Sixteen mechanical properties of all the four knifed fabrics knitted under the same knitting conditions were measured by KES-FB system with the outer knit condition. And 3D CAD dressmaking simulations, which were driven by some of the mechanical properties, were presented. The results were as follows: CP2 had high RT values with twisting of covering yarn. CP2 also had high B, 2HB values because of higher linear density. SMD was affected rather by twisting of covering yarn than by fine hair of the cotton surface. Twisting of covering yarn made it decreasing T value and increasing W value. Dressmaking 3D CAD simulations showed that there are buckling effects on CP2 because of high bending rigidity and shear rigidity.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.5
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• pp.754-764
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• 2010

Most silk fabrics are produced only after the degumming process to make the best use of the properties and have restricted silk processing that do not hinder their performance. However, considering the highly increased preference for natural fibers and the shortage of raw silk, high-quality upgraded silk product functions are required by the development of a processing technology and a good design. This study analyzes the changes with the samples by the functional finish such as softening finishing, wash and wear, tannin weighting by measuring the objective hand of scoured silk and three finished ones using KES-FB. As a result, the change of objective hand of finished silk fabrics that improves functionality was analyzed and compared. The increase of KOSHI after the finish became stiffer show that the silk fabric samples are appropriate for summertime clothes with the retention of a certain clothing climate for the body. The stiffness of finished fabrics for the normal had a closer relationship with the density of fabrics than the type of finishing. The samples (after the softening finishes) maintain better elasticity according to the properties of the softener and the finishing agent. Although the specimens of this study were thin fabrics, their elasticity against compression increased after the softening finishes and became softer than degummed silk. The surface properties of georgette were changed by all types of finishing.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.6
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• pp.61-72
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• 2008

The UV-protection effect of green-tea dyed fabrics was reported in our previous studies. The chitosan was used as a natural mordant of cellulose fiber for green tea extract because chitosan is a natural bio-polymer. The increase in the UV protection property of summer cellulose fabrics, cotton and linen, upon the repetition of chitosan mordanting and green tea dyeing was observed. However, the physical property change would be followed by this repeated wet processing of the cellulose fabric. Therefore, the physical changes of the chitosan mordanted and green tea dyed cotton and linen fabrics were evaluated by KES-FB system. Tensile, shear, bending, compression, and surface characteristics were tested upon the repetition of mordanting and dyeing treatments. Linearity of tensile force increased in the treated cotton and linen samples. Tensile energy and resilience decreased in all treated fabrics. Shear stiffness increased in the treated cotton and linen in general. Shear hysteresis was increased in all cotton samples and some linen samples. In cotton, the bending rigidity in all treated cottons increased except C3G3. As the chitosan mordanting numbers increased, the bending rigidity tended to decrease. In linen, the bending rigidity and hysteresis increased in all treated samples. Compressional energy and resilience increased as the number of chitosan mordanting increased both in cotton and linen. This could be the result of the increase in thickness upon chitosan mordanting. Surface coefficient of friction increased in the treated cotton and linen in general. Surface roughness tended to increase in cotton.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.8 no.4
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• pp.345-354
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• 2005

In this study, the mechanical properties and hand characteristics have been analyze4 according to fabric structural parameters such as the weft density and weave stricture of cotton fabric. KES-FB system was used to measure hand characteristics and mechanical properties of fabric. The weft density made an effect on bending and shear properties but not on tensile , compression, and surface properties. In case of wearing property, B/w, 2HG/G, 2HB/B, 2HB/W, $\sqrt[3]{B/W}$, $\sqrt{2HB/W}$, W/T, WC/W were affected tv the weft density. The crimp was highly correlated with the tightness, hand, wearing an4 mechanical properties, specially tensile linearity, bending, shear, and compression properties. The weft crimp influenced the bending, shear, compression resilience, surface roughness, hand, and wearing properties. The tightness has an effect on tile bending, shear, compression, surface friction, hand, and wearing properties.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.357-362
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• 2006

This study is to evaluate the objective sensibility of the commercial lining fabrics. Five kinds of the linings were collected by adding taffetas with four kinds of fibers (polyester, nylon, rayon, and acetate) to one polyester stretch fabric. The six basic mechanical and hand properties were studied by using KES-FB system (Kawabata Evaluation System). The result of measuring the mechanical properties shows that polyester has high bending rigidity (B), that polyester-stretch has a high value of linearity of load-extension curve (LT), tensile energy (WT), tensile resilience (RT), and coefficient of friction (MIU) and a low value of bending rigidity(B), shear property, and geometrical roughness (SMD). The nylon has a high value of bending rigidity (B), shear property, and compression resilience (RC). The rayon has a high value of coefficient of friction (MIU) and linearity of compression-thickness curve (LC) and a low value of shear property, and the acetate has a low value of shear property. The result of hand value shows that polyester, nylon, and acetate are a high value of KOSHI (stiffness), NUMERI (smoothness), and FUKURAM (fullness & softness), and they feel stiff and massive, that rayon has a low value of NUMERI and FUKURAMI. The total result of hand value shows that polyester taffeta and polyester stretch fabric are about the same as the best material for the lining of a woman's dress for spring and summer, and the next thing is acetate, but nylon and rayon are somewhat inferior materials. This provides a fundamental data for the comfortable clothing production of a higher value-added product through the study on the mechanical and hand properties of the lining as well as the right side of fabrics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.11
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• pp.1318-1329
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• 2003

The purpose of this study was to examine the effects of the structural characteristics of men's suit fabrics on the texture image and the preference, and to analyze the relationship between the preference and the practical sales ratio. In addition, the texture images and the preference of fabric and jackets made of the same fabrics were compared. As specimen, jackets for men's suit of 2002' S/S and their fabrics were collected. Questionnaires composed of 22 sensibility related and 21 fabric image related adjectives were developed. For the subjective evaluation of the texture image, both jackets and fabric samples were tested. Tests were performed with 100 female subjects in clothing department and apparel industry. For the objective evaluation, structural characteristics such as fiber contents, yarn twist, fabric count, thickness and weight were analyzed. Total Hand Value were calculated from mechanical properties determined by the KES-FB system. Factor analysis showed sensibilities were classified into 6 categories; "surface roughness", "weight", "density", "stiffness", "elasticity" and "wetness". Fabric images were classified into 4 categories; "classic", "original", "practical", and "stuffy". Depending on the method to show the specimen to the subjects, whether it is suit or fabric, statistically significant differences were observed with a number of adjectives for sensibilities and fabric images. The results of THV of KES did not agree with the preference of subjects, which suggests that we should be careful when using the KES system, which was developed for Japanese people. Price was considered to be another factor besides the texture image that influenced on purchase.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.2 no.3
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• pp.148-152
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• 2001

Cotton yarns were coated with a polymer solution to hold surface fibers to the yam body, which caused fiber-fly generation during knitting process. The physical property of the coated yarn, especially a bending rigidity was investigated in order to evaluate the performance of the coated yam during knitting. SEM images showing the surface condition of the coated yarn demonstrated that the thickness of a coating material increased as the concentration of the coating solution increased. The results of the bending rigidity measured using KES-FB2 system showed that the bending rigidity of the coated yam increased as the concentration of the coating solution increased. The results also revealed the possibility that yarn coated with a low amount of coating material should be employed for further research of reducing fiber-fly generation during knitting process.