• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.2
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• pp.299-307
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• 2009

The purposes of this study ate to evaluate sensibility performance of metallic Jacquard fabrics, and to contribute to the research and development of the women's suit made of the metallic Jacquard fabrics. eight fabrics were woven with two kinds of warp yarns(nylon and rayon) and weft yarn blended with various contents(0, 7, 14, 21%) of metallic yarn. The sensibility performances such as sensory, touch preference and buying preference for memory fabrics of the metallic Jacquard fabrics were evaluated, and mechanical properties were measured by KES-FB system. The correlation between the mechanical properties and the sensibility performance were analyzed. As the metal fiber content increased, the sensory evaluation value of lustered, wrinkly, sandy, rustle and stiff increased, the sensory evaluation value of slippery and damp decreased. As the metal fiber content increased, the touch preference decreased and the buying preference increased. The touch preference had negative correlation with the metal fiber content, but the buying preference had positive correlation with it.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.22 no.8
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• pp.1141-1149
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• 1998

Tencel fabrics were treated with NaOH, mechanically prefibrillated, and hydrolyzed by cellulase. Softner was applied to improve hand of the treated Tencel fabrics after prefibrillation and cellulase treatment. Kawabata's Evaluation System for Fabrics(KES-FB) was used to evaluate effects of NaOH pretreatment, prebifrillation, and cellulase and softner treatments on fabric hand of the treated fabrics. Primary hand values of women's medium thick fabrics such as KOSHI, NUMERI, FUKURAMI, and SOFUTOSA, and total hand values were evaluation parameters. As the treatments of prefibrillation, cellulase, and softner progressed, values in bending and shearing properties decreased and softness and elasticity were imparted to the treated fabrics. Specifically, compressional linearity, compressional energy, and thickness of the treated fabrics increased by prefibrillation, providing bulkiness to the treated fabrics. Values indicating surface properties increased owing to fibrils formed by prefibrillation treatment, but removal of fibrils by cellulase treatment enhanced smoothness. As the fabrics were exposed to various treatments such as NaOH pretreatments, prefibrillation, and cellulase and softner treatments, NUMERI, FUKURAMI, SOFUTOSA, and total hand values increased with the exception of KOSHI, Consequently, the treated fabrics became softer, smoother, and more elastic. Especially, the NaOH pretreatment provided superior SOFUTOSA to Tencel fabrics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.11
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• pp.1362-1376
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• 2011

This study examines the effect of the structural properties of F/W wool knit fabrics for woman's knitwear on the perceptions of textures and sensible images of consumers and present basic data for textile designing by analyzing the relationship among the structural properties, mechanical properties, objective hand measurements and preferences. A total of 12 kinds of knit fabrics were prepared and investigated in terms of the differences in the subjective, mechanical properties and objective hand measurements according to the structural properties of knit fabrics. The data were analyzed by t-test. The subjective hand attributes of wool knits through factor analysis are categorized into 6 factors. In particular, the 'active/comfort' factor is a meaningful result that reflects the unique characteristics of knit fabrics compared to woven fabrics. Mechanical properties and objective hand measurements have a greater effect on textures than on sensible images; in addition, the structural properties, 'gauge' was the most important factor to influence the subjective evaluation.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.327-336
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• 2010

The purposes of this study are to evaluate mechanical properties and sensibility of tencel jacquard fabrics treated with ginkgo biloba extract and silicon softener, and to contribute to the research and development of the bedclothes made of the tencel jacquard fabrics. Mechanical properties and objective fabric hand evaluation were measured by using KES-FB system. Subjective sensibilities such as sensory, touch, and purchasing preference were estimated by using blind field test. The tensile properties such as EM, WT, and RT of tencel jacquard fabrics treated with ginkgo biloba extract and silicon softener showed increase. Bending properties and shear properties were decreased, but compression properties were increased compared to untreated fabric. With ginkgo biloba extract and silicon softener treatment, thickness and weight were increased. Therefore, tencel jacquard fabrics became more stretchable, softer, and bulkier than untreated fabrics. Consequently, THV of tencel jacquard fabrics treated with ginkgo biloba extract and silicon softener were increased. When fabrics were treated sequentially with ginkgo biloba extract and silicon softener, fabrics were estimated softer, more flexible, and bulkier than untreated fabrics. Also, tencel jacquard fabrics treated with ginkgo biloba extract and silicon softener were estimated to have good touch and preference.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.125-138
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• 2008

For physical and hand property evaluation of fabrics, the knitted fabrics from 11 types of machines knitting fancy yarns, boucle (M1), knot (M2), snarl (M3), and slub (M4), tamtam (M5), tubular (M6), fur 1 (M7), bead (M8), fur 2 (M9), fur 3 (M10), and ladder (M11) yarns, were prepared with 7-10 G plain stitch. Washing test and pilling test had also been carried out. For hand properties by objective sensibility evaluation, 17 items of sir mechanical properties using KES-FB (Kawabata Evaluation System) had been measured. Then hand values of knitted fabrics were calculated with a calculation formula, namely KN-402-KT. Finally the total hand values were obtained through KN-301-WINTER. As a result of physical properties and objective evaluation for machines knitting fancy fabrics, most of them shrank in the direction of wale and course after the washing test, in which their shrinkage rate had a maximum of 3.5%. Therefore, the washing test indicated that the shrinkage ratio of knitted fabrics had a minor change. The results of the pilling test are mostly 4-5th grade, and all of the machines knitting fancy fabrics showed good results in the pilling resistance. In hand properties and objective sensibility evaluation, twisted fancy yarns, such as boucle (M1), knot (M2), snarl (M3), and slub (M4), were superior to bonding rigidity (B) and shear rigidity (G). The surface property between course and wale differs in all samples and course direction is tougher than wale direction. FUKURAMI (fullness and softness) of all samples have high values, besides NUMERI (smoothness) of tamtam (M5) and boucle (M1), which were rather good. Most samples except fur 1 (M7) had low KOSHI (stiffness) value. The total hand value (THV) of twisted yarns was low. This study proves that manufacturers, who plan knitting yarn products and knit fashion, can apply these data to develop machines knitting yarns and knits that fit the consumers' demands.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.23-31
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• 2005

Mechanical properties and hand evaluation of wool/acrylic(W/A) blend knits were conducted before and after repeated washing to get the optimum W/A blending ratio, which could help achieve the optimum mechanical and hand properties of the knits. The five test fabrics using the yarns with different W/A blending ratios($\%$), 100/0, 70/30, 50/50, 30/70, 0/100, were knitted. The fabrics were washed by a rotating drum type washing machine. Then, objective mechanical and hand properties were evaluated by KES-FB, Kawabata evalution system for fabric. The results are as follows: there was no change in the hand value of the knitted fabric with the W/A-blended yarn caused by the change in the blending ratio before washing. After washing, however, the increase of acrylic's blending rate caused the bending property to decrease proportionally, while the friction coefficient of the surface property increased. Furthermore, the study showed that W/A 50/50 possesses the most superior tensile property and shearing property, which could attain the optimum blending ratio. Similar results in hand value were derived in all the samples. After washing, however, the increase in acrylic's blending rate caused a proportional decrease in KOSHI and an increase in FUKURAMI. In addition, W/A 50/50 gained the biggest NUMERI value, again corresponding to the optimum blending ratio. Similar results in total hand value were derived in all the samples before washing. After washing, though, all the total hand values decreased, and, as the wool fabric's blending rate increased, the total hand values proportionally decreased further.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.2 s.161
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• pp.197-205
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• 2007

We investigated the effects of washing on the mechanical properties and hand values of spandex/cotton and cotton single jersey fabrics. These knitted fabrics were subjected to 30 laundering cycles with a drum-type washer and were followed by drying at $65^{\circ}C$ with a tumble dryer. The mechanical properties of the cotton knitted fabrics changed greatly during the first washing and then suffered no further change in their properties as the number of washing cycle increased. However, the properties of the spandex/cotton knitted fabrics changed continuously throughout all the washing cycles. The cotton/spandex knitted fabrics showed higher values in tensile and bending properties than did the cotton knitted fabrics, though both kinds of fabrics showed less difference in shearing, surface and compression properties. The spandex/cotton knitted fabrics which had proper density had a higher THV for winter underwear after 30 repeated washings than did the cotton knitted fabrics, and the THVs of both fabrics decreased with the increase in the number of washing cycles.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.472-483
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to analyse the effects of knit samples' mechanical properties on changes of skirt length of knit flared skirt, and to compare it to the knitting method of a seamless knitted flare skirt. So, I compared the appearance and 3-dimensional shape of a seamless knitted flare skirt with those of a fully cut knit flared skirt. For this study, 18 kinds of cut and sew or seamless knitted test garment were made. The data analysis methods used in this study were descriptive statistics, one-way ANOVA, correlation analysis, and regression analysis. The results are as follows: The result of the evaluation of knit samples' mechanical properties by the KES-FB system showed that elongation decreased as gauge increased and course direction was greatest among grain directions. The length change after wearing the knitted flare skirts appeared wholly equal to the seamless knitted, compared with the cut and sew. The change was biggest at $180^{\circ}$, 7G of the cut and sew. In grain direction, bias cut showed more than 1.2cm of length change. As the weight and thickness increased, the length changes become larger. The regression analysis indicated that the greatest contributive variables on the length changes were elongation, weight, and thickness.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.5
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• pp.854-861
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• 2015

This study evaluates the objective and subjective hand as well as the preference for hand and outdoor jackets on laminated waterproof breathable fabrics with different constituent characteristics to identify those best suited for consumer needs. Mechanical properties and objective hands were measured by the KES-FB system. The subjective hand and the preference of laminated waterproof breathable fabric for outdoor jackets were rated by the 20's and 30's women experts with tactile and visual senses that utilized a questionnaire with a seven-point semantic differential scale; subsequently, the flexibility and compressive elasticity of laminated waterproof breathable fabrics were low. However, light and thin waterproof breathable fabrics with a smooth surface had high scores in smoothness, fullness & softness and total hand value. In addition, laminated waterproof breathable fabrics were classified into three hand factors: flexibility, density, and surface properties. There were significant differences on flexibility and surface property perceptions, hand and out-door jackets preferences according to the characteristics of waterproof breathable fabrics. The hand preference of the laminated waterproof breathable fabric improved with decreasing 2HB and increasing EM. However, EM showed positive effect for outdoor jacket preferences. Those that were flexible and smooth were preferred for outdoor jackets.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.10
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• pp.1467-1477
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• 2002

This study was investigated physical properties of stretch fabrics by KES-FB system to show suitable basic data to making skirts of excellent capacity and develop more organized basic skirt pattern by fitness evaluation. 1. The results of T. H. V.(Total Hand Value) were as followa: In the kind of blending fiber, cotton/spandex was more excellent than nylon/spandex and polyester/spandex, in the direction of stretch, one-way(weft inserted polyurethan yarn) polyester/spandex and cotton/spandex were higher than two-way(warp and wet inserted polyurethan yarn) polyester/spandes and cotton/spandex, two-way nylon/spandex was higher than one-way nylon/spandex. 2. The results of calculating the variance between sample stretch fabrics and Japanese s/s women's suit fabrics after standardizing were as follows: Stretch fabrics has 2 range of tensile, bending, shearing, compression, surface, thickness and weight as compared with Jpanese s/s women's suit fabrics. In the tensile property, one-way stretch fabrics were almost the same with Japanese s/s women's suit fabrics, only two-way polyester/spandex had+1～+2 range. In the bending, shear property, there was no difference between sample fabrics and Japanese s/s women's suit fabrics 3. In the total fitness of the skirt, nylon/spandex is the best in the fabrics and one-way stretch fabric is better than two-way strethch fabric.