• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제17권4호
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• pp.613-625
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• 2015

This research was conducted to provide basic data to improve expressivity required for virtual clothing to replace actual clothing. For the experiment, 6 materials were selected and 12(2 kinds of length) actual flared skirts were made. At the same time, simulations were carried out on OptiTex Runway 12.0 for 36(12 kinds of skirts $\times$ KES, FTU, KES weight/10) kinds of virtual flared skirts, which were applied with the measured property values (thickness, weight, bending, shear, friction, and stretch). Also, the study compared and analyzed the wearing images, silhouette overlapping images, and skirt length measurements of the actual and virtual skirts put on a dummy. As a result, the actual skirts showed clear distinction for each material. In contrast, virtual 1 and 2 expressed fabric 3 in the most similar way, but could not recreate the uniform, soft, and natural flare shape of the actual skirts in general. Virtual 3 formed natural flares as those of the actual skirts, and expressed fabric 1, 5, and 6 in a similar way. However, virtual 3 had too much volume and barely showed any distinction for each material. All of virtual 1, 2, and 3 expressed different flare shapes on the front and back sides of the skirt similarly to the actual skirts, and had a good visual expression for the color and texture of the materials. However, they could not effectively express the elasticity and fabric sagging in the bias direction.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• 제2권4호
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• pp.196-202
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• 2001

In order to investigate the relationship between subjective sensation for fabric sound and touch and the objective measurements, eight different apparel fabrics were selected as specimens. Sound parameters of fabrics including level pressure of total sound (LPT), level range (ΔL), and frequency differences (Δf) and mechanical properties by Kawabata Evaluation System (KES) were obtained. For subjective evaluation, seven aspects of the sound (softness, loudness, pleasantness, sharpness, clearness, roughness, and highness) and eight of the tough (hardness, smoothness, fineness, coolness, pliability, crispness, heaviness, and thickness) were rated using semantic differential scale. Polyester ultrasuede was evaluated to sound softer and more pleasant while polyester taffeta to sound louder and rougher than any other fabrics. Wool fabric such as worsted and woolen showed similar sensation for sound but differed in some touch sensation in that woolen was coarseast, heaviest, and thickest in touch. In the prediction model for sound sensation, LPT affected positively subjective roughness and highness as well as loudness, while ΔL was found as a parameter related positively with softness and pleasantness. Touch sensation was explained by some of mechanical properties such as surface, compressional, shear, and bending properties implying that a touch sensation could be expressed by a variety of properties.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제22권8호
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• pp.1141-1149
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• 1998

Tencel fabrics were treated with NaOH, mechanically prefibrillated, and hydrolyzed by cellulase. Softner was applied to improve hand of the treated Tencel fabrics after prefibrillation and cellulase treatment. Kawabata's Evaluation System for Fabrics(KES-FB) was used to evaluate effects of NaOH pretreatment, prebifrillation, and cellulase and softner treatments on fabric hand of the treated fabrics. Primary hand values of women's medium thick fabrics such as KOSHI, NUMERI, FUKURAMI, and SOFUTOSA, and total hand values were evaluation parameters. As the treatments of prefibrillation, cellulase, and softner progressed, values in bending and shearing properties decreased and softness and elasticity were imparted to the treated fabrics. Specifically, compressional linearity, compressional energy, and thickness of the treated fabrics increased by prefibrillation, providing bulkiness to the treated fabrics. Values indicating surface properties increased owing to fibrils formed by prefibrillation treatment, but removal of fibrils by cellulase treatment enhanced smoothness. As the fabrics were exposed to various treatments such as NaOH pretreatments, prefibrillation, and cellulase and softner treatments, NUMERI, FUKURAMI, SOFUTOSA, and total hand values increased with the exception of KOSHI, Consequently, the treated fabrics became softer, smoother, and more elastic. Especially, the NaOH pretreatment provided superior SOFUTOSA to Tencel fabrics.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제8권3호
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• pp.357-362
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• 2006

This study is to evaluate the objective sensibility of the commercial lining fabrics. Five kinds of the linings were collected by adding taffetas with four kinds of fibers (polyester, nylon, rayon, and acetate) to one polyester stretch fabric. The six basic mechanical and hand properties were studied by using KES-FB system (Kawabata Evaluation System). The result of measuring the mechanical properties shows that polyester has high bending rigidity (B), that polyester-stretch has a high value of linearity of load-extension curve (LT), tensile energy (WT), tensile resilience (RT), and coefficient of friction (MIU) and a low value of bending rigidity(B), shear property, and geometrical roughness (SMD). The nylon has a high value of bending rigidity (B), shear property, and compression resilience (RC). The rayon has a high value of coefficient of friction (MIU) and linearity of compression-thickness curve (LC) and a low value of shear property, and the acetate has a low value of shear property. The result of hand value shows that polyester, nylon, and acetate are a high value of KOSHI (stiffness), NUMERI (smoothness), and FUKURAM (fullness & softness), and they feel stiff and massive, that rayon has a low value of NUMERI and FUKURAMI. The total result of hand value shows that polyester taffeta and polyester stretch fabric are about the same as the best material for the lining of a woman's dress for spring and summer, and the next thing is acetate, but nylon and rayon are somewhat inferior materials. This provides a fundamental data for the comfortable clothing production of a higher value-added product through the study on the mechanical and hand properties of the lining as well as the right side of fabrics.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제8권1호
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• pp.23-31
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• 2005

Mechanical properties and hand evaluation of wool/acrylic(W/A) blend knits were conducted before and after repeated washing to get the optimum W/A blending ratio, which could help achieve the optimum mechanical and hand properties of the knits. The five test fabrics using the yarns with different W/A blending ratios($\%$), 100/0, 70/30, 50/50, 30/70, 0/100, were knitted. The fabrics were washed by a rotating drum type washing machine. Then, objective mechanical and hand properties were evaluated by KES-FB, Kawabata evalution system for fabric. The results are as follows: there was no change in the hand value of the knitted fabric with the W/A-blended yarn caused by the change in the blending ratio before washing. After washing, however, the increase of acrylic's blending rate caused the bending property to decrease proportionally, while the friction coefficient of the surface property increased. Furthermore, the study showed that W/A 50/50 possesses the most superior tensile property and shearing property, which could attain the optimum blending ratio. Similar results in hand value were derived in all the samples. After washing, however, the increase in acrylic's blending rate caused a proportional decrease in KOSHI and an increase in FUKURAMI. In addition, W/A 50/50 gained the biggest NUMERI value, again corresponding to the optimum blending ratio. Similar results in total hand value were derived in all the samples before washing. After washing, though, all the total hand values decreased, and, as the wool fabric's blending rate increased, the total hand values proportionally decreased further.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제36권3호
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• pp.360-370
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• 2012

This study investigates the interaction effects of mechanical property-based clusters and colorimetric tones on the subjective touch and color sensation of fabrics when sight and touch were simultaneously provided to humans. Each of six different silk fabrics was colored by digital textile printing to have three tones (pale, vivid, and grayish) and its mechanical properties were measured by a Kawabata Evaluation System (KES). Touch and color sensation were identified to be primarily influenced by mechanical property-based clusters and tones, respectively. In touch, 'smooth', 'warm', 'heavy', and 'soft' were found to be affected by interactive effects of mechanical property-based clusters and colorimetric tone so that the pale tone tended to make differences smaller among the clusters for the touch sensation, while the grayish tone seemed to contribute to larger differences of 'heavy'. However, an interaction effect was not found in the color sensation with touch even though the color sensation was also influenced by mechanical property-based clusters.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제7권4호
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• pp.445-451
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• 2005

Up to the present, fabric finishing methods have been mainly employed for the application of chitosan. However, the coated chitosan acid salt is prone to be detached from the fabric during the laundering process. In order to improve the wash fastness, chitosan treated fabrics are being subjected to thermal curing. In this study, chemical crosslinking reaction by epichlorohydrin was introduced to improve the problem of the thermal curing. An improvement of the wash fastness is expected since the coated chitosan component on the fabric become insoluble by the introduction of the crosslinking. The demerit of the single chitosan treatment (inferior handle due to the excessive stiffness, etc.) was supplemented by the application of chitosan-polyurethane mixture solution. The mixture ratios were adjusted to 1 : 0, 1 : 0.25, 1 : 0.5, 1 : 1, and 1 : 2 for the chitosan/PU mixture. Physical and mechanical properties of the finished fabric specimens were measured using the Kawabata Evaluation System(KES), and hand values were calculated accordingly based on the translational formulas.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제7권4호
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• pp.439-444
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• 2005

This article describes the change in the hand value of chitosan-crosslinked cotton fabrics. The chitosan-crosslinked cotton fabrics were manufactured by mercerizing process using epichlorohydrin(ECH), 2% aqueous acetic acid and 20% aqueous sodium hydroxide. It proposed that the crosslinking and mercerizing were performed with the mixture of four different molecular weight chitosan and ECH in a single step. Cotton fabrics were dipped in the mixed solution of chitosan and ECH, picked up by mangle roller, pre-dried at $130^{\circ}C$, mercerized and crosslinked in NaOH solution and finally washed and dried. Mechanical and physical properties of the chitosan crosslinked fabric were measured on concentration and molecular weight by Kawabata Evaluation System(KES) and other instruments. As the concentration of chitosan solution increased, LT, WT, B, 2HB were increased. WT, B, 2HB, MIU, SMD, $T_0$, $T_m$ were decreased when chitosan was depolymerized. On the other hand, RT was increased when chitosan was depolymerized.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제25권9호
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• pp.1593-1602
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• 2001

본 연구는 스포츠 아우터웨어용 나일론 직물의 소리에 대한 주관적 감각과 이에 관련된 객관적 측정치를 규명하기 위하여, 서로 다른 8종의 나일론 직물의 소리의 스펙트럼 파형을 고찰하였으며, 소리 파라미터로 총음압(level pressure of total sound, LPT),세 가지 AR (autoregressive)계수, Zwicker의 심리음향학적 모델에 따른 크기(Z)와 날카로움(Z)를 계산하였고, Kawabata Evaluation System(KES)으로 직물의 물리적 성질을 측정하였다. 주관적 감각 평가를 위하여 피험자에게 녹음된 각 직물소리를 들려주어 7개 소리 감각 (부드러움, 시끄러움, 날카로움, 맑음, 거 침, 높음, 유쾌함)을 의미분별척도로 답하게 한 후, 단계적 선형 회귀식을 이용하여 직물 소리의 주관적 감각에 대한 예측 모델을 제시하였다. 울트라스웨이드를 제외한 태피터 나일론 직물들은 스펙트럼 파형 에서 다른 조성 섬유의 직물들보다 음압 값이 높고, 총음압이 60dB 안팎의 값을 보여, 착용자에게 불쾌감을 줄 것으로 예상되었으며, 주관적 감각 평가에서도 소리의 부드러움과 맑음, 유쾌함에서 음의 점수를, 시끄러움과 날카로움, 거침, 높음에서 양의 점수를 얻었다. 주관적 감각의 예측모델에서 총음압은 시끄러움과 거침에 정적 영향을, 유쾌함에 부적 영향을 미쳐서 나일론 직물 소리의 총음압이 50dB 이하일 때 주관적으로 유쾌하게 느껴지는 것으로 나타났다.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제6권5호
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• pp.660-666
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• 2004

This article describes the change of hand value of chitosan crosslinked cotton fabrics. The chitosan crosslinked cotton fabrics were manufactured by mercerizing process using epichlorohydrin(ECH) as crosslinkins agent, 2% aqueous acetic acid as a solvent of chitosan and ECH, and 20% aqueous sodium hydroxide as a mercerizing agent and crosslinking catalyst. Cotton fabrics were dipped in the mixed solution of chitosan and ECH, picked up by mangle, mercerized and crosslinked in NaOH solution, and finally wash and dry. Mechanical and physical properties of the chitosan crosslinked fabric were investigated using Kawabata Evaluation System(KES) and other instruments. Tensile energy and tensile strain were decreased with the increase of the concentration of chitosan. Tensile resilience, compression resilience bending rigidity, bending hysteresis, shear stiffness, shear hysteresis, coefficient of friction, geometrical roughness, compression linearity, compressional energy, and thickness were increased with the increase of the concentration of chitosan. On the other hand, bending rigidity, bending hysteresis, coefficient of friction, geometrical roughness, compressional resilience, and thickness were increased with the increase of the concentration of crosslinking agent(epichlorohydrin).