• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.38 no.6
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• pp.873-886
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• 2014

This study conducted a survey on jean pants that targeted males in the 20s in order to select preferred brands for skinny jean pants. Preliminary data for the pattern development of skinny jean pants was presented through functionality evaluation, appearance evaluation and pattern analysis. The results were as follows. 1. The result of survey targeting males in the 20s to select the design and brand name of jean pants showed that skinny jean pants were selected as the most favorite type of jean pants to wear; in addition, non-brand products and brand names such as Uniqlo and Levi's were also preferred. 2. The result of functionality evaluation showed that L brand received a high score in all items except for items regarding the knee circumference and mid-thigh circumference, S brand received a high score as well as a low score, and N brand received a low score in general. The result of appearance evaluation showed that L brand for the waist height and waist circumference, N brand for the brand crotch circumference, posterior crotch length and knee circumference, and S brand and N brand for the length of pants were preferred. 3. The result of pattern measurements analysis from the result of functionality evaluation showed that L brand provided a large pattern measurement for the waist height, L brand provided less ease due to small pattern measurements for waist circumference; in addition, N brand for the knee circumference and mid-thigh circumference were preferred. 4. The analysis result shows that a ease of 5cm based on the belly band which is 3.5cm below the belt width is proper for the waist circumference when designing a skinny jean pant pattern and 4cm for the hip circumference and 32.5cm for the ease of crotch circumference are proper, -0.4-0cm for the ease of mid-thigh circumference and knee circumference in consideration of human body measurements; therefore, 80.1-80.5cm for inseam as the length from the crotch height to the leg length, 25.7cm for vertical hip length and 53.0cm for crotch length are proper.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.37 no.3
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• pp.280-291
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• 2013

This paper analyzes desirable breast types using measurements from 31 selected female subjects based on the ratio of breast in works of art and to design a brassiere cup design according to the breast type of 182 female subjects in their 20s. The subjects selected for this paper are somewhat larger than a previous study on aesthetically perfect breasts of foreigners according to chest breadth, center neck point to breast point, breast circumference, and breast volume. However, the aesthetic breasts of foreigners are larger than the subjects selected for this study according to chest depth, under-bust circumference, and bust point to bust point. Comparing various breasts types and aesthetic breasts, padding is necessary to complement the form of flat breasts to increase the volume and diameter. Brassiere cups for cone-shaped breasts should be designed to increase breast volume through an increase in nipple height. Hemisphere breasts should be designed to increase the overall volume-leaving diameter. Protrusion breasts should enhance the functions of aggregating and supporting without any increase or decrease of the breast volume. Drooping breasts require the ability to support a large volume to stabilize the breast. Subjects were selected depending on the ratio of breast silhouette as works of art and who have large breasts in disproportional to a slender trunk. Three items, the circumferential length of breast, height of the nipple, and the depth of inner breast using the anthropomorphic measurements of 182 subjects were measured through regression equations for breast volume. Breast volume = -394.86 + 27.52 ${\times}$ (the circumferential length of breast) + 18.73 ${\times}$ (height of the nipple) + 12.85 ${\times}$ (the depth of inner breast). Regression equations to extract the aesthetic breast volume in measurements irrelevant to breasts using the anthropomorphic measurements of 31 subjects were as follows. Aesthetic breast volume = -611.30 + 17.67 ${\times}$ (bust circumference) -24.29 ${\times}$ (under-bust circumference) + 16.31 ${\times}$ (neck point to breast point to waistline) + 22.83 ${\times}$ (bust breadth) + 12.22 ${\times}$ (waist depth) -8.34 ${\times}$ (interscye- front). This prediction equation is useful to develop a breast type brassiere pattern, complement breast enhancement surgery, or minimize the effect a mastectomy.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.40 no.5
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• pp.830-843
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• 2016

The world wide increase of obesity and demands for various plus-size fashion are expanding the global plus-size fashion market. This study is to understand the market status of the US (the biggest plus-size fashion market) as well as analyze women's fashion shown in power blogs on the plus-size fashion trend. For research methods, photos from the top 10 globally ranked plus-size power blogs on Alexa.com were collected and divided into 5 plus-size body types based on: design factors, style, color, item, and texture. Pants with tops or completed outfits including pants, tops, and outer were the most common for casual styles; in addition, a tendency to pursue comfortable and naturally fitted clothes was also indicated. As for colors, the most common were blue colors and white or pastel toned colors; in addition, soft, hard, and transparent were all evenly used for materials. One-piece items were the most popular formal style that were mostly a one-tone color made with hard materials indicated by the pursuit of the fanciness and formality of a dress for a formal occasion. Black was the most common color, and the color variation was less diverse compared to that of casual styles. The most common for semi-formal styles were outfits with movability and more fanciness such as wearing a casual outer on top of a formal one-piece. When examining the fashion in plus-size blogs, there are differences in the frequency of design factors due to the diversity of body-types; in addition, different items were shown to be preferred in accordance with styles. The results of this study will help fashion companies who want to enter the global plus-size women's fashion market (including the US market); in addition, research on plus-size fashion that is changing the fashion and aesthetic paradigm is expected to contribute to academia.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.41 no.1
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• pp.84-97
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• 2017

Water vapor and thermal transmission properties of high emotional garments are important to evaluate wear comfort; in addition, the measuring methods of these properties are also critical for breathable and warm suit fabrics. In this study, the water vapor and thermal properties of composite yarn fabrics made of CoolMax, Tencel, and Bamboo fibers with filaments were measured and compared according to the measuring method. Water Vapor Transmittance (WVT) of the fabric woven by the sheath/core composite yarn in the warp direction was the highest due to the small staple fiber volume in the sheath/core yarn structure and high air voids in the sheath/core yarn fabrics. This property was also the highest in fabrics woven by bamboo staple yarns in the weft direction, and was the lowest on hi-multi filament fabrics. However, water vapor resistance ($R_{ef}$) of these fabrics by KSK ISO 11092 showed the opposite results to the water vapor transmittance method ($CaCl_2$ method); in addition, its correlation coefficient was low. The correlation coefficient between $R_{ef}$ and the drying rate was 0.719; therefore, the measurement mechanism of $R_{ef}$ is analogous to the drying property measurement. The thermal conductivity of the fabrics woven with compact staple yarn showed a high value; however, the hi-multi filament fabric showed low thermal conductivity. Therefore, fiber characteristics affect thermal properties more than yarn structure. The correlation between thermal property and moisture transport was also low. This study showed that: water vapor transmittance was active at the loose yarn structure, dry heat transport was vigorous at the compact yarn structure, and heat transport was affected more by fiber characteristics than yarn structure. In conclusion, sheath/core composite yarns were relevant to the high absorptive cool suit along with siro-fil and CoolMax/Bamboo staple yarns that were relevant to the heat diffusive cool suit.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.40 no.4
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• pp.746-762
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• 2016

This study considers expression techniques and aesthetic values in the images of head dress reflected in a natural motif. The conclusions of the study are as follows. The first type is the realistic expression (52.4%) such as the reproduction of a natural object's essential form (27.0%), the partial derivation of the natural object (19.3%), and the planarization for the actual image of the natural object (6.1%). The second type is a metaphorical expression (39.0%) which emphasizes the morphological characteristics of nature (18.2%), the structuration of the natural object's silhouette into a three-dimensional or two-dimensional form (11.5%), and the abstract expression of the form in the natural object (9.3%). The third type is a hybrid expression (8.6%) that is a compromise between practical (or metaphorical expressions) so that expression techniques represent a compromise between the natural object's essential form and abstract expression (4.6%) or the combination of the natural object's silhouette into a three-dimensional or a two-dimensional visualization (4.0%). Aesthetic head dress values reflected in the natural motif first indicate a primitive value. This state of natural instinct recreates the natural object or combines part of the biological elements of the natural object to create an inducement to escape from the practical world. The second is amusement in the expression of animals in dynamic and humorous forms creates an illusion of animals being alive with a representative playful enjoyment. The third is abstraction that grant freedom in the observer's aesthetic rational through a reinterpretation of the fashion designer. The fourth is eclecticism where a compromise represents an act of mixing a variety of independent factors to create harmony with the imagery of nature created through the grafting of diverse expression techniques that break away from stereotypes of existing natural objects to create a type of nature that cultivates new values.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.6
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• pp.904-915
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• 2009

This study compares fashion leaders and market mavens by examining the demographic characteristics of fashion leaders and market mavens and how they differ in their evaluation of store and shopping related attributes. Data originated from a national consumer mail survey in the United States. The survey included items measuring market mavenism, fashion leadership, store evaluative attributes, and personal information. Responses from 380 consumers were used for data analysis. Female consumers were found to be more active in word-of-mouth activities in general. Young consumers were more inclined to express fashion leadership while age was not related to market mavenism. A lower level of education increased tendencies for both market mavenism and fashion leadership. In terms of store evaluative criteria, the majority of items in the survey were more important as fashion leadership and market mavenism tendencies increased. Interestingly, the need for knowledgeable or helpful salespeople did not increase with fashion leadership tendencies. Also, fashion leaders were interested in easy return of merchandise and were likely to spend more time in the stores. This study sheds important light on how fashion leadership differ compared to market mavenism. By simultaneously examining fashion leadership and market mavenism using a strong sample base, this study provides sound evidence of how consumers interested in fashion may have differing needs for shopping.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.12
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• pp.1950-1962
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• 2008

Today the importance of color image is increasing for the brands as well as the products. This study was performed to classily the color image of baby's wear brands and to suggest how the color is effectively planned for the image. In order to classify the color image of 7 baby's wear brands, color palettes of 7 brands were also made by 6 subgroups, each season(summer, fall) by gender(boy, girl, new-born) and based on manufactured garments which were collected by on-line shops. Questionaries were organized with 40 pieces of the color palettes prints for 6 subgroups by 7 brands and 20 baby's wear image adjectives. The total 320 copies were used in the survey to students majored in fashion design. Questionaries were analyzed by factor analysis from SPSS 12.0 package program. There are 4 main factors for the color images of baby's wear brands, 'liveliness', 'loveliness', 'chic', 'neatness'. Not hue, but tone is more important to express the characteristics of color images of baby's wear brands. Also white and black are importantly used for baby's wear. The consistency of the brand color image across gender and season is very important to identify and strengthen the color image of brand.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.6
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• pp.890-901
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• 2008

This study explores an initial framework for online product categorization by examining the relationships among Internet motivations, buying tendencies, and online purchase intentions for product categories. A total of 217 usable questionnaires were obtained from respondents in a southwestern state in the United States. A path model using a correlation matrix with maximum likelihood was estimated using LISREL 8.53. Findings indicated that Internet motivations consisted of four factors: Diversion, Economic, Information, and Social motivations. In addition, online products were classified into three categories based on purchase intentions: Sensory, Cognitive, and Search products. Estimated path model showed that diversion and economic motivations affected impulse buying tendency, whereas economic, information and social motivations influenced planned buying tendency in the online context. Also, the buying tendencies were significantly related to online purchase intentions for the product categories. Purchase intentions for sensory products were more strongly affected by impulse buying tendency, whereas purchase intentions for cognitive and search products were more strongly affected by planned buying tendency. Theoretical and managerial implications were discussed for devising an appropriate e-market strategy for specific product categories.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.7
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• pp.1109-1120
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• 2009

This study develops a fitted torso type basic pattern for men by utilizing 3D body scan data. Recent fashion trends are reflected in the development of the pattern. The subjects were 15 men in their 20's, who wear size 95 (M size). Body scan data was obtained through a 3D whole body scanner (WB4, Cyberware, USA), and a body surface development figure for developing male fitted torso type basic pattern was attained through the use of Rapid Form 2006 as well as Auto CAD 2006 programs. The results are as follows: A body surface development figure through body surface segment method showed high exactitude in an error range of 100$\pm$1%. In addition, it occurred in an error range of 100:1:3% because of the hard scanning conditions in the incline of the shoulder and armpit areas. However, the body surface development figure as well as the direct measurement results can be used as basic data for the given patternmaking since the error range falls into 100$\pm$3%. Dart amounts obtained from the average cross section were center back 2.2cm (24.3%), back armpit point 3.8cm (41.8%), front armpit point 3.0cm (33.9%). As shown the jacket pattern, the biggest dart amount was portioned out at the back armpit point. The drafting equations for the development pattern acquired are as follows; Full width=C/2+5cm, back length=height/4-1cm, armhole depth=(C/10+12cm)+3cm, back width=2C/10+2cm, front width=2C/10. The development pattern was a fitted torso basic pattern that was composed of 3 pieces, so it would be very useful in developing shirt or jacket patterns. According to the results of the evaluation of the developed pattern appearance, it obtained higher scores of over 3.5 points in almost items, meaning that the developed pattern is appropriate for a male fitted torso type basic pattern. It suggests a possibility of patternmaking from a body surface development figure in 2-D to prototype.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.6
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• pp.980-990
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• 2008

This study tested how impulse buying behavior for apparel was related to hedonic consumption and impulse buying tendencies and emotion in the context of shopping. A total of 290 self-administered questionnaires were obtained from college students during scheduled classes. A structural equation model using a correlation matrix with maximum likelihood was estimated for examining the relationships among consumer tendencies of hedonic consumption and impulse buying, positive emotion, and impulse buying behaviors by LISREL 8.53. Findings showed that impulse buying behaviors for apparel could be classified into planned, reminded, and fashion-oriented impulse buying typologies. Hedonic consumption and impulse buying tendencies had significant effects on positive emotion. Positive emotion had a significant effect on planned, reminded, and fashion-oriented impulse buying for apparel. This study suggests that positive emotion plays an important role in determining impulse buying behaviors relevant to hedonic and impulse buying tendencies. Managerial implications for apparel retailers are discussed.