• Title/Summary/Keyword: Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles (JKSCT)

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A Study on the Facial Shape of Korean Women (한국 성인여성의 얼굴형태에 관한 연구)

  • Yi, Kyong-Hwa;Kim, Jeong-Hee
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.33 no.6
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    • pp.938-948
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    • 2009
  • The purpose of this study was to offer typical facial shapes Korean women in their 20's to 50's. We used facial photographs of 600 Korean women obtained from $2003\sim2004$ Size Korea Project and we measured these photographs indirectly in this study by utilizing the Venus face2D program. Total 62 measurements on the face were measured and analyzed by statistical methods. The results were as follows. First of all, the mean of face length was 196mm, top face length was 62.3mm, middle face length was 68.9mm, bottom face length was 66.5mm, mean of forehead width was 125.1mm. As based on those average sizes, we proposed a average facial size and shape of Korean women and a average facial size and shape of 20's, 30's, 40's and 50's in this study. When examined characteristic of 20's facial shape, it was recognized that the width of forehead was wider and the width of gnathion was smaller than other age groups. In the characteristic of 30's facial shape, the ratios of facial length, top of face, middle of face and bottom of face were balanced well, as comparing with other age groups. Overall, the values of facial measurement of 30's were similar to the averages of total women. In the facial shape of 40's, mean length and width of face each were the smallest among each age group. The eye shape of 40's was more drooped than the average eye shape and the protrusion of the zygomatic bone was significantly different. In case of the facial shape of 50's, it was similar to the facial shape of 40's, but mean lengths and widths of 50's face were slightly larger than the values of 40's. The eye shape of 50's was more drooped than average group and the eye length was the smallest among all age groups.

A Study on the African Image Expressed in 2005 S/S Collections (2005 S/S 컬렉션에 나타난 아프리카 이미지 연구)

  • Lee, Keum-Hee;Kim, Wan-Joo;Kim, So-Ra
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.31 no.6 s.165
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    • pp.911-922
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    • 2007
  • In this study, for the purpose of correct viewing on the image of Africa and understanding of modem fashion, African image and art, the general characteristics of African costume, the background of fashion subjecting African image, and the trend according to ages were examined based on theoretical background. Then the researcher drew African image by analyzing the works in four 2005 S/S major fashion collections to designers and design factors. The ten voted designers' and brands' works in 2005 S/S collections had four concepts of African image; 'Wild Erotic', 'Abstract Primitive', 'Natural Elegant' and 'Sporty Romantic'. The viewpoint of modem fashion on African image from the aspect of design, designer and fashion trend can be examined as below. First, African costume, which was religious and ceremonial, appeared to emphasize its esthetic side with decorative details in modem fashion design and designers competed to choose a method to harmonize tradition and modem style and by adopting these from occult to decorative meaning, Second, fashion designers presented city unpolished beauty of modem women to a special style and made african image to be recognized as a code of fashion culture by integrating it with modem people's mind to go back to the past and admiration for the purity of nature. Third, thanks to the instinctive vitality hidden in the primitive life, inspiration for creative design that is found in the esthetic mind of the Indians, foreign taste emphasizing ethnic trend, and admiration to naturalism due to the increase of concern over ecology, 'African image' led the beginning of 21C trend by being settled as a in fashion trend.

Influence of Men's Clothing and Hairstyle on the Evaluation of Professionalism and Preference (남성 의복과 헤어스타일이 전문성 및 선호도 평가에 미치는 영향)

  • Kang, Seung-Hee;Lee, Myoung-Hee
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.33 no.6
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    • pp.990-1001
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    • 2009
  • The purpose of this study was to investigate the effect of perceiver's gender, clothing, and hairstyle on the visual evaluation of men's professionalism and preference. A quasi-experimental method by questionnaire was used. The experimental design was a $2\times8\times2$ (perceiver's gender $\times$ clothing $\times$ hairstyle) factorial design by 3 independent variables. The stimuli were 16 photographs of a man in his twenties. The upper clothing of the man included tailored collar jackets in beige and dark blue colors, and jumpers and sweaters in beige, dark blue, and red colors. The lower clothing of the men included jean pants. Two types of the hairstyles included short hair and medium length hair. The subjects were 208 men and 223 women in Seoul, Korea. Wearing a beige sweater with jean pants was evaluated high in intellectual image, a red jumper was perceived low in intellectual image, and a beige tailored collar jacket was evaluated low in potent image. Men's short hairstyle was evaluated to be more professional than the medium length hair. Male perceivers liked short hair more than medium length hair, but female perceivers evaluated both hairstyles similarly. In the case of women, the preferences of tailored collared jacket and soutien collared jumper were similar, but jumper was preferred to jacket in the case of men. Male perceivers showed more positive feedback towards jean pants with soutien collared jumper than jeans with tailored collared jacket, which indicated that men showed more conservative attitude towards the outfit than women. The man who was wearing a jumper with short hair was evaluated positively and the man who was wearing a jacket with medium length hair was evaluated negatively when the attires were coordinated with jean pants. In conclusion, medium length hairstyle with a beige jacket and short hairstyle with a red sweater were evaluated as professional image; and the results indicated that clothing and hairstyle interact with each other and influence the evaluation of professionalism.

A Mixture Phenomena Expressed in Contemporary Knit Fashion - Focus on Woman Collection from 2000 to 2008 - (현대 니트패션에 나타난 혼합현상 - 2000년~2008년 여성컬렉션을 중심으로 -)

  • Park, Moon-Hee;Lee, Youn-Hee
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.33 no.12
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    • pp.1924-1934
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    • 2009
  • Mixture phenomena are present in the overall culture due to internationalization in a modern society. A unique feel is required in materials due to the increasing demand for knit wear and there is a need for a strategic plan to achieve this. This study analyzed the appearance frequency and expressive characteristics of mixture phenomena based on selected data from collections related to the mixture phenomena trends in modern women's fashion from 2000 to 2008. Among the mixture phenomena, the mixture of the high and low class cultures had the highest frequency of occurrence and was expressed most often since the expansion of design areas was due to vague high and low concepts. The mixture of sexes showed the sharing of knit wear trends between the sexes with the pursuit of functionality. The mixture of styles showed a tendency to increase since the traditional form was transformed into a mixture of typical styles. The mixture of spaces showed a mixture of old and traditional knit wear patterns from Northern Europe and modern elements. The mixture of other materials showed the partial preceding mixture and the decorative materials that existed beyond it. The mixture of functions refers to the used characteristics of the two items. Imagination will grow and increase the possibility of expressions with the mixture of the other areas.

Washing Treatment Effects on Cotton and Kenaf Blend Fabrics (면섬유와 케나프섬유를 혼방한 직물과 편성물에 대한 워싱 처리 효과)

  • Lee, Hye-Ja;Yoo, Hye-Ja;Lim, Hee-Jeong
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.34 no.3
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    • pp.448-458
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    • 2010
  • Kenaf has a rigid and rough touch that inhibits the use of it as a textile material; therefore, this study developed a novel textile material using kenaf. Kenaf and cotton were blended in the ratio of 3:7 and manufactured as 20' spun yarn that was compared to 20's spun yarn made of 100% cotton. Both kenaf/cotton-blended and 100% cotton spun yarn were constructed as plain woven and knitted fabrics. Four kinds of fabrics were prepared as follows. Plain kenaf/cotton-woven fabrics, plain cotton-woven fabrics, kenaf/cotton jersey, and cotton jersey. A cellulase washing process was carried out to reduce the character of kenaf/cotton-blended fabrics, rigid, and rough touch. All fabrics were pretreated with NaOH. NaOH at the concentrations of 0, 0.25, 1.25, and 2.25mol/L, and cellulase at concentrations of 0, 1, 3 and 5g/L were used since the pretreatment of NaOH has a higher efficiency of weight loss than $Na_2CO_3,\;K2CO_3$ and Triton X-100. The ratio of weight loss, tensile strength, stiffness, drape property, and surface appearance were measured in order to evaluate the efficiency of the washing treatment on fabrics. Kenaf/cotton-blended fabrics exhibited more rigid and rough features than cotton fabrics. A cotton jersey showed significant differences in the degree of stiffness and drape properties. When all fabrics were treated with 1.25mol/L of NaOH and 3g/L of cellulase, kenaf/cotton-blended fabrics showed a higher retention ratio of tensile strength than cotton fabrics after washing despite the increased weight l08s of kenaf-blended fabrics compared to cotton fabrics. The ratio of weight loss for all fabrics was well correlated with flexibility. The washing treatment process made woven fabrics more flexible than knitted fabrics, because the stiffness of woven fabrics made the rubbing actions stronger. Kenaf/cotton-blended fabrics showed a significantly higher ratio of weight loss and more reduction in stiffness than cotton fabrics after the washing treatment. This might be due to the lack of cohesiveness and easy elimination from fabrics. The drape property of kenaf-blended fabrics was superior to cotton fabrics.

A Study on Factors that Affect the Selection of Multichannel in the Apparel Retail -Based on the Characteristics of Marketing and Customer- (패션소매유통 멀티채널 채택에 영향을 미치는 요인에 관한 연구 -마케팅 특성과 소비자 특성을 중심으로-)

  • Kim, Ju-Hee;Lee, Jin-Hwa
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.35 no.7
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    • pp.801-815
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    • 2011
  • This study examines the characteristics of marketing and customer that influence the selection of multichannel (preference/frequency of use) in the fashion retail. The subjects of this study are men and women live in Seoul/Gyeonggi province and Busan/Gyeongsangnam-do in their 20s-40s who have shopping experiences in fashion items of more than 2 shopping channels among offline stores, catalogs, and the internet. The survey period was from March to May 2010 and 411 forms were used in this survey. The data were analyzed by a reliability analysis (Cronbach's ${\alpha}$), a factor analysis, t-test and one-way ANOVA. The main results of this study are summarized as follows. First, marketing characteristics, which effect the selection of multichannel (preference/frequency of use), consist of sales promotion, service, price, merchandise, and distribution. Those have a significant influence (***p${\leq}$.001) on choosing multichannel of fashion retail. Price has a significant impact on the preference of multichannel and merchandise affect for frequency of use in multichannel shopping. Second, customer characteristics have a significant influence (***p${\leq}$.001) on the monthly average purchasing amount, shopping hours, shopping frequency, brand knowledge, and price sensitivity. Particularly, monthly average purchasing amount & shopping frequency have meaningful differences in the frequency of using multichannel; in addition, shopping hours were affected by preference & frequency of use. Price sensitivity has a greater influence on the frequency of using multichannel and brand knowledge has a greater effect on multichannel preference. Customer's information searching characteristics have main 3 factors through the use of marketing information, personal information and experience information. Application of experience information is the main factor in preference and frequency of using multichannel shopping. The customer demographic characteristics of age (*p${\leq}$.05, **p${\leq}$.01) and gender (*p${\leq}$.05) show a difference for selecting multichannel. There is no difference for marital status, average household income per month, and job.

The Properties and Production of Hand-Made Paper Made from Various Plant Fibers (식물섬유 수초지의 제조와 물성에 대한 연구)

  • Lee, Hye-Ja;Lim, Hee-Jung;Bae, Hyun-Young;Mo, Tae-Wha;Yoo, Hye-Ja;Han, Young-Sook
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.32 no.9
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    • pp.1366-1375
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    • 2008
  • This studies were carried out in order to develope environmentally-friendly fiber materials and substitute resources of Paper mulberry. Various plant fibers such as New Zealand flax, Indian mallow, Kuzu vine and Yucca were used as raw materials of hand-made papers. We rotted these 4 kinds of plant fibers and removed non-cellulose. After rotting, the pulping rate(%) and the length of fibers in pulps were measured. The physical characteristics of papers made of various plants fiber were investigated and the probabilities of practical use were considered. The results were as follow: The non-cellulose contents of plant fibers were $30{\sim}40%$ and those contents must be lower down to 8% to be able to manufacture the hand made papers. The lignin in pulps were removed almost and the hemicellulose were partially removed to reach up to appropriate level of the pulp rates and fiber lengths. The more hemicellulose removed, the finer fiber thickness were and rapidly the lower Hanji tensile strength were. But the tear strength of these plants of hand-made papers do not decreased so much as tensile strength. So the property of 4 types of plant fibers might be of great advantages to make hand-made papers. Both tensile and tear strengths of Hanji of New Zealand flax, Indian mallow, Kuzu vine and Yucca were higher than Paper mulberry hand-made paper. When 30% of mulberry paper were mixed, the mixing effect showed maximum. Because of the functions of all plant fiber hand-made papers showed better than those of Paper mulberry hand-made paper, 4 types of plant fibers could be substitute Paper mulberry.

Knit Design by Applying African Textile Pattern -Focused on Color Knit Jacquard- (아프리카 직물 문양을 응용한 니트디자인 -컬러 니트 자카드를 응용하여-)

  • Yoo, Kyung-Min;Kim, Young-Joo;Lee, Youn-Hee
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.31 no.9_10
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    • pp.1475-1486
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    • 2007
  • This study aims to develop knitted ware design to meet desire to express diversity in the modern fashion design so that we designed knitted ware by applying african geometric pattern and color to suggest new knitted ware design. We collect data about african texture pattern through technical books, publications, internet, and preceding research and visit and investigate the African museum. We investigate knitted Jacquard texture through preceding research and collect sample and data which is insufficient in the data source. The conclusions in this study are summarized as follows: First, African textile pattern is formulated with animism based on their religious view of art for a basis and African regards nature like animal and plant as a motive and interprets nature in the so that they can create symbolized geometric features that constitute African texture pattern. Those patterns is composed of extremely geometric figures so that they we fit to apply for color jacquad knit design. Second, color knitted jacquad can be distinguished by knitting method and status of knitting as 7 kinds of techniques such as Nomal, Bird'eye, Floating, Tubular, Ladder's back, Blister, Transfer Jacquard, and as a result of preceding research and knitting texture directly, jacquard technique makes different texture under same condition like consistent spinning rate and same crochet hook. Third, Bird'eye Jacquard used generally to make knitted ware and Ladder's back Jacquard, Tubular Jacquard used to make knitted ware light are fit to apply them to 7GG and 12GG machines. We design a cloak as a outer garment, a coat shaped like one-piece dress and a coat with hood by using Tubular Jacquard which can make thick texture and design a jacket, a skirt and a one-piece dress by using Bird'eye Jacquard. we make a light and flimsy one-piece dress by using Ladder's back Jacquard. Fourth, we apply the contrast of $4{\sim}6$ color and line and the contrast of texture and raw material to jacquard in order to emphasize texture property and visual property.

A Study on the Mechanism of Religious Symbol, Manifested in Costume -Focusing on the Rites of High Religion- (종교적 상징이 복식으로 표출되는 메커니즘에 대한 연구 -고등종교의 의례를 중심으로-)

  • Seo, Bong-Ha;Kim, Min-Ja
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.32 no.6
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    • pp.935-946
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    • 2008
  • Religion is the symbolic form and action, linking the ultimate condition of life with human beings. Religious idea grasps the world through symbols and gives birth to the action through symbols. This research put its purpose in elucidating the effect of religion on the costume and its mechanism. It's focus is centered on Buddhism, Hinduism, and Islam which are among the world high religions. Part of this research also examines the mechanism in which several composing factors are expressed with rituals and manifested with costumes, this process was diagrammatized and suggested. The composing factors of religion such as belief system, experiences, community, and rituals are closely related. Ritual especially, is the symbolic action, practice, and the way of rescue, expressing religious meaning. Religious rituals such as imitative rituals, positive or negative rituals, sacrificial ritual, and rites of passage have been expressed with religious music or figurative art such as costume, construction, and art as well as religious ritual like ancestral rites. Religion has had a great effect on the overall culture including costume as a belief system by lightening the meaning of life and suggesting the solutions to the human problems such as anxiety or conflict.

Consumer Segmentation according to the Constituent Characteristics of Knit Fabrics - Using Conjoint Analysis - (니트 소재 구성특성에 따른 소비자 세분화 - 컨조인트 분석 이용 -)

  • Roh, Eui-Kyung;Kim, Seong-Hun
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.32 no.12
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    • pp.1981-1989
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    • 2008
  • Different people buy the same or similar products for different reasons. Benefit segmentation attempts to understand these differences by grouping together people who assign a similar level of importance to the same attributes. We focused on identifying market segments for knit fabrics by comparing the relative attribute preference for knit fabrics according to segmented clusters, and testing to establish if there were significant differences between the preferences of clusters. Three consumer segments emerged, and there were three clusters with different ideal knit profiles: a preferred wool group, a preferred acrylic group, and a preferred long stitch length group. The preferred wool group and the preferred acrylic group rated the mixture ratio as the main attribute that determined their preference, followed by the stitch length. The preferred long stitch length group considered stitch length as being the most important attribute, followed by the mixture ratio. The difference in the preferences for the mixture ratio and stitch length of knit fabrics was the highest between the three clusters, The preferred wool group preferred a knit fabric that has a greater wool mixture ratio and a short stitch length, and the preferred acrylic group and long stitch length group preferred a knit fabric that had a higher acrylic mixture ratio and a short stitch length.