• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.40 no.6
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• pp.1116-1133
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• 2016

This study examines the historical background of Goryeo and its relationship with Song and Yuan. In addition, it observes the shape of dress styles for the king, queen, officers, maids in waiting, and commoners after classifying them with a focus on the dress style of normal people appearing in Buddhist paintings. This study then investigates structures by tracing Goryeo's unique identity and its characteristic by a comparison and analysis of dressing style elements of Goryeo with Song and Yuan. The results shows that the Song's system was used exclusively for the dress style of the king and government officers of Goryeo after Goryeo's submission period by Yuan. There were no clear appearances of a Mongol style dress but only changes in head styles of cutting hair around the head and twisting the rest in a top down and long method. In addition, Song's style Bokgeon was shown by the king to his lower level officers. This was because the king and his officers of Yuan were in accordance with Song's system in officer's dress, hat and head style, armor, and horseback riding equipment. Second, there is doubt if they inherited a traditional form and style of the dress rather than followed the dress style of Yuan because the shape of Yuan's basic dress style Deel is very similar to the dress shape of early Buyeo people's Po in the $3^{rd}$ to $4^{th}$ centuries. Third, the shape of the Chaksu and Gung-go had been kept as it was in the dress style of ordinary men, and because the shape of the double collar had already appeared in the period of Samguk, which appeared in all classes of Yuan. There is no reason to adopt double collar shape that appeared. The general Pyeonbokpo of the country had to be influenced by Yuan. Forth, the dress style of queen and her maids in waiting were mentioned in documents; however, there was no shape of a dress like Boktag and Deel in the relics, which are the characteristic of Yuan's woman dress style. Fifth, the shape worn national style Yu and Sang had been kept in an ordinary woman's dress style; however, the two style system of high and lower class in Yuan's ordinary woman dress style appeared newly and is considered an influence of Goryeo.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.6
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• pp.869-879
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to understand the Tecktonik culture and fashion, and to compare its features in Korea and France. Unlike prior studies which mainly dealt with subcultures in the U. S. and the U. K., this study paid attention to the condition of Korea. Tecktonik is a dance and music craze that originated in France in 2000, and spread worldwide via the Internet. The main features of Tecktonik fashion are slim fit, vivid colors, and high-top sneakers, which represent current fashion and culture trends, and express the feeling of Tecktonik music and dance. Compared to France, Korean Tecktonik fashion emphasizes sexual attraction of women with short skirt, while men are conservative about mohican hairstyle and dark make-up. In France, Tecktonik has become a sound social amusement, while in Korea it has been used for advertisements or entertainer's fashion style. The subcultural characteristics of Tecktonik were identified as playfulness, the active use of digital media, and high commercial value. In France where Tecktonik is for participating in a joyful dance, playfulness is prominent, and in Korea where Tecktonik acts as a visual entertainment, commercial value is outstanding. It has made differences in Tecktonik fashion of the two countries.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.9
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• pp.1479-1490
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• 2010

This study provides basic data for the development of jacket patterns which reflect designs corresponding to the body shape features and preferences of obese women in their 20s and 30s by understanding problems they may encounter in wearing a ready-made jacket by researching the reality of ready-made tailored jacket wearing and their design preferences. A survey was conducted by sampling 82 obese women (over $25kg/m^2$ BMI) between the ages of 20 to 39. The details of the survey consists of general information, interest rate and importance rate on clothes, reality of wearing and purchasing jackets, measurement fits per each part, and preferred designs. SPSS 14.0 was used to analyze the data. The results showed that 76.8% of obese women wore their jackets less than 5 times a month. Those in the 20s wore the jackets more frequently than those in the 30s. The reasons for not wearing jackets frequently included uncomfortableness in activities and unavailability of the correct size. A total of 55% of the total preferred the fitting to be relatively smaller than the body size or tightly fitting. Although in the past, there was a tendency to wear a loose fit to cover the body shape, currently even obese body shapes avoided the loose fit as the tight fit is the trend. In terms of the satisfaction rate for the measurements per each part of jackets, there was a low satisfaction rate for most of the items. For the circumference items such as waist length and chest size, people responded that they were too small and for the length of items such as the length of jacket and sleeve length, people responded that they were too long. This was because the readymade clothes brands increase the length of items and circumference items in uniform in the same intervals when producing large sizes. Both those in the 20s and the 30s preferred a tight fit. In terms of preferred fabric, a wool/spandex mix was most popular and then cotton/spandex. This shows that they prefer those fabrics which allow an excellent activity while maintaining the exterior well. In addition, they preferred black color with no patterns because they wanted their body size to look reduced and did not want to receive any attention.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.5
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• pp.679-690
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to compare clothes-wearing in winter between Korean and Japanese college students and to provide the fundamental data for apparel manufacturers to produce young woman's clothing. A total of 332 Korean female students in the capital area and 347 Japanese female students in Tokyo aged between 19 and 25 were used into data analysis from December 2007 to January 2008. Their majors were Fashion Design and Clothing & Textiles. The questionnaires consisted of 36 questions in total. Their details were as follows: 2 questions about the purposes of wearing clothes in winter, 5 questions about whether or not underwear was worn and its types, 9 questions about the types of wearing outer garments, 17 questions about the types of wearing accessories, and 3 questions about demographic characteristics. The results were as follows: It was found that many female students wore clothes for "a protection purpose" or "an ornamental purpose" in winter. There was significant difference between Korea and Japan. As for the question about whether or not underwear was worn in winter, less Korean students answered than Japanese students that they wore both of upper and lower underwear. More upper underwear was worn than lower underwear. As for the question about the types of wearing outer garments, both Korean and Japanese students answered that they wore 3-layered upper garments in winter most. The types of upper garments worn in winter were different between Korea and Japan. The lower garments worn in winter were different between the two countries as well. The Korean students mainly wore pants while the Japanese students wore skirts. As for the types of accessories, there was significant difference between Korea and Japan about most of the questions about hats and gloves. Korean students wore them more than Japanese students. There was no significant difference between the two countries about whether or not scarves or earmuffs were worn. In both countries, more students wore scarves while less students wore earmuffs.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.39 no.3
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• pp.337-352
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• 2015

This study selected a case study method conforming to qualitative research in order to analyzed how each type of fashion enterprises uses SNS in-side of fashion marketing based on content the researcher monitored and selected from the Facebook website for each enterprise. The standard to select fashion brands in this study is a graded list made based on ranking 5 analysis sites on social media (Socialbakers, socialDigm, Pulse K, BigFoot9, L2). The researcher sorted and then analyzed 2 brands that have many fan joiners and followers among fashion brands that were ranked top of the graded list, work in Facebook animatedly, and had representativeness in each type (SPA, Sports Brands). The study was conducted from January 2013 to March 2013, and the index of Facebook consisted of 3 kinds of elements (comment, like, and share). Each numerical value was counted to decide the monthly ranking. Content analysis was divided into public relations about brand, public relations about products, and customer participation and activities; consequently, the researcher investigated which content was post conforming to the ranking. The study analyzed the analysis results of each brand derived through the method of study compared to other brands. The results are as follows. In case of SPA brands, the category accounting for high rank in index analysis are public relation events to attract customer attention and products and offering information. The results of the monthly trend about whole post category were also similarly analyzed so the promotion goal that the brand wants to seek in priority coincides with the customer compliance rate. Next, in the case of sports brand, public relations for products offering information, event for arousing customer concern, and participation activities accounted for a high rank in the index analysis and posted the most in the analysis of the monthly trend for whole post category. The researcher came to understand that the direction of content for brands shown through Facebook coincides with customer sympathy.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.8
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• pp.1309-1321
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• 2008

Military style is not limited to a single period but represents various image communications related to items, synthetic images and different periodical culture backgrounds. The purpose of this study is to define the communicational function of the military style beginning from the 1st world war up to the modern days, and furthermore explain the characteristics and contents of military styles in different periods by studying the nowadays various symbols of the military style in denotative and connotative aspects. The research method is documentary studies through the literature and academic paper, and examined masters' and doctors' thesis, domestic and overseas books and fashion magazines, photographs and materials collected from the internet. As a result, first, the military style is a significant fashion code in understanding modern fashion by serving as a strong communication function representing people’s ritual through various image items called the 'military look'. Second, the meaning of the image communication through military look changed throughout the different periods. During the 1st and 2nd World war the military look supported Fascism by serving as a media representing extreme patriotism and at the same time social images like functionalism, women liberation, regulation and saving. During the cold war period it was used by young progressives like hippies and punks to send an opposing message towards war and commercialism. Since then up to the 80s it was a medium representing the ‘new role of women’, who possess same social rights and power as the men. However in the 90s the military style had to go through a paradigm transition period. Since this period it got affected by the post modernism and designers, consumers alike adopted military style to create unique beauty It can also be said that it began to be used as a pure fashion code representing intertextuality. It was rather expressed as a metonymy than a metaphor and combined with elegance and feminine factor, which contrasts to the original military concept, it now represents totally new hybrids such as difference, dissemination and varieties.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.4
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• pp.412-421
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• 2012

The yerba mate that grows in the subtropical forests of South America is an evergreen tree within the Aquifoliaceae family. The yerba mate (Ilex paraguariensis) tea is habitually used as a drink in Argentina, Paraguay, Uruguay, and Southern Brazil. A wild mate tree needs about 25 years to fully grow to 15 a height of meters; however, they only grow to a height of 3-5 meters when cultivated. The leaves are 7-11 cm long and 3-5cm wide with a serrated margin. Yerba mate tea-based beverages are made from the leaves and stems of the mate tree. It is known that they contain a rich content of antioxidants and polyphenol, vitamins, amino acids, minerals and colorants. Dyeing properties of a mate plant in the silk, wool, linen and cotton fabrics were investigated. Constituents of colorant of mate tea are chlorophyll and carotinoid; in addition, it has more minerals such as (Fe, Ca, Mn, Mg, Na, K, Zn, and Cu) than green tea. Mate tea colorants showed good affinity to silk and wool fabrics. It was found that the optimum condition for dyeing was 30 minutes for dyeing time, 7 for pH of dyebath, and at a dyeing temperature of $80^{\circ}C$. The maximum absorbance wavelength (${\lambda}_{max}$) of silk and wool fabrics dyed with mate tea were at 420-440nm; however, that of linen and cotton fabrics were at 400nm. K/S values of fabrics dyed under optimum conditions were 1.979 for silk fabrics, 1.541 for wool fabrics, 0.551 for linens and 0.465 for cotton fabrics. Munsell hue values of dyed fabrics measured 3.1Y-6.4GY for silk, 1.4Y-8.3Y for wool, 5.5Y-3.7GY for linen, and 5.3Y-1.3GY for cotton. All dyed fabrics showed hues in-between greenish yellow and greenyellow. Colorfastness to rubbing, perspiration and dry-cleaning of dyed fabrics with mate tea were very good; however, the grades of colorfastness to washing of dyed linen and cotton fabrics were poor, and colorfastness to light were poor.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.12
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• pp.1682-1688
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• 2007

The effects of cultivar and DAPs on the lignin content and dyeability of the kenaf fibers were investigated. Four kenaf fiber samples were prepared from two cultivars, Tainung 2 and Everglades 41, and their 60 and 120 DAPs(days after planting) for the experiments. The lignin contents of the kenaf fibers of Tainung 2(T2) and Everglades 41(E41) were $11.29{\sim}12.78%$. Both T2 and E41 kenaf fibers had comparable amount of lignin, and klason lignin of the fibers was $2.5{\sim}3$ times as much as much as acid-soluble lignin. In both T2 and E41, 120 DAPs kenaf have 1% more lignin than 60 DAPs kenaf. The moisture regains of the four kenaf fiber samples were almost the same as $10.25{\pm}0.05%$. The absorbances of residual solution after dyeing for $1{\sim}180$ minutes with Red 81 at maximum wavelength 520 nm and Green 26 at 600 nm were measured. Comparing to Green 26, the dyeing rate of Red 81 was rapid and equilibrium state was reached in 12 minutes. The CIE $L^*,\;a^*, \;b^*,\;{\Delta}E$ and K/S values of the kenaf fibers dyed with Red 81 and Green 26 were measured as well. The dye exhaustion ratio of 60 DAPs kenaf was higher than that of 120 DAP.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.5
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• pp.856-865
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• 2010

Many efforts to develop the domestic fashion industry have continued under the influence of a rapidly changing fashion industry environment. The fashion industry has emerged as a future growth industry leading lifestyle and as a core industry for the culture biz. Since the 2000's the markets that combined party and fashion wear as a new cultural trend has grown and an in-depth study of design development for party wear is required. This study presents basic materials for design development for the future domestic woman character casual brand prior to the design development by analyzing design characteristics of domestic female character casual brands. In the research methods, nine brands were selected based on the discussion of ten fashion specialists and then the brand concept, target, configuration of items, price, and design characteristics were analyzed. The following conclusions were drawn from this study. First, each brand concentrated the main focus on establishing a clear and unique brand identity that meets the needs of consumers to enhance competitiveness in the woman's dress market. To enhance competitiveness, many character casual brands targeting women aged 20's and 30's (including BEART) held party wear goods exhibitions as the market for party wear has increased significantly. Second, according to study results of the selected nine brand designs, it was found that the style characteristic of each brand varies depending on concept. However, all nine brand designs developed various styles such as feminine and cute style making use of laces, ruffles, A line silhouette, colorful motifs, and a stylish style that used layers with various materials along with unique decorations based on romantic emotions. Third, seven hundred and thirty eight pictures of nine brands were analyzed by items without identifying brands. According to the result of the analysis, the percentage of items used by brands was as follows: a one-piece dress was 34.5%, jacket 25.7%, skirt and pants 15.5%, blouse and shirt 13.6%, and tops 10.6%. The result showed that one-piece dresses accounted for the highest percentage. Frill accounted for 16.6%, the highest percentage followed by ribbons at 16% in regards to detail and trimming.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.6 s.165
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• pp.869-878
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to investigate perception of risks among South Korean female college students within the process of purchasing apparel products through the Internet. The study was implemented by descriptive survey method using questionnaire and subjects consisted of 324 South Korean female college students. Findings of the study showed that the purchasing process particularly regarding delivery and security issues seemed to be a strong concern. On the other hand, unique selection such as apparel brands only available through the Internet was a strong appeal to 37.7% of subjects. Factor analysis profiled risk perception as: 1) Internet Shopping Selection Preference, 2) Delivery Problems and Lack of Security 3) Product Quality and Characteristics 4) Return Policy Difficulties and 5) Fair Prices. Discriminant analysis showed Factors 1, 2 and 3 were significant in helping to differentiate among Non-Purchasers, Fewer-purchasers and Many-Purchasers. Factor 1 and 3 helped differentiate among respondents relative to age range. Across all types of purchasers, offering unique selections of cutting edge fashions and improving risk perception relative to delivery and security concerns seemed important for gaining greater market share. Being able to delivery quality products and communicate product characteristics would be a powerful competitive edge to add to the incentive of convenience in shopping for apparel on the Internet.