• 복식
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• 제66권3호
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• pp.162-179
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• 2016

This study examined the 17th century wedding ceremonies of princes and princesses recorded in the "Garyedeungrok(嘉禮謄錄)". The Joseon dynasty royal weddings were held outside the palace, so it could have influenced wedding ceremonies of commoners. Royal weddings for princes and princesses were considered to be on a level between that of a king and commoners. Wedding procedure of princes and princesses was carried out under the leadership of the royal family who officiated at a marriage with the king's approval. In addition, kindred of the king and high-ranking officials participated as the maid of honor in the wedding parade. This was completely different between the royal wedding and the scholar-gentry ones. A difference between the prince and the princess was that the princess paid her respect to the shrine of the house of her groom after the wedding ceremony. However, there was no process for the prince's bride. There also existed a wide disparity in the wedding goods of princes and princesses. The prince and the king's son-in-law both held a wedding ceremony to wear Chopo, but there was a difference in decoration or quantity of Danlyeong(團領) Cheollik(帖裏) Hoseul(護膝) belts. Only princes were allowed to use the ornamental knife and the embroidered pouch. While both the princess and prince's wife wore No-ui(露衣) and Jangsam(長衫) as the wedding clothes, there was discrimination of position in terms of hair decoration, Hwalhansam(闊汗衫), skirt, Hosu(胡袖) and Ni-ui(裏衣). There was also a difference of quantity of Jeogori and skirts, as well as various styles of gold decorations in order to distinguish the Gongju(daughter of the king) and the Gunju (daughter of the crown prince)'s position.

• 복식
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• 제63권7호
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• pp.176-188
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• 2013

This research examines embroidery panels of Hwarot belonging to the Victoria and Albert Museum (the V&A). There are a total of seven objects and are all disassembled into clothe pieces. They were classified into two groups according to their acquisition year. One group, four objects, was acquired by the Museum in 1920. Considering their materials, embroidery threads, techniques and formative characteristics of patterns, it can be assumed that the objects formed an original dress, Hwarot. Although they look very similar to the embroidery patterns of Hwarot belonging to National Folklore Museum of Korea, they are more finely embroidered with very thin embroidery thread that uses the Jarisu technique. There are some differences in used embroidery threads and embroidery skills between Hwarot artifacts of the National Museum of Korea and the V&A. The embroidery of the National Museum of Korea used thicker threads and longer (approximately 0.7cm) Jarisu stitch techniques. With these details, they would have been made in different time periods. Comparison of the V&A and Changdeok Palace' Hwarot objects show that their patterns' motifs are almost similar but the pattern units, expressions and embroidery techniques are different. Regarding the colors of their patterns, it is noticeable that the peonies are generally expressed in reddish and the lotus patterns are expressed in either bluish or purplish color. It seems that they are contrasted with red-colored flowers and show harmony between yin and yang symbolically. Three artifacts of another group were acquired in 1925. Two of them show patterns almost the same as those of the sleeves of Hwarot (no.33156, no.33158) in Chicago Field Museum collection. The pattern of the remaining object is very similar to Hansam of Hwarot (no.33158).

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제30권1호
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• pp.94-105
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• 2006

This study is focused on the man's costumes of Sadangpae(the troupe of performers) shown in Gamrotaenghwa (감로탱화) during the late Chosun dynasty. Originally Gamrotaenghwa was used as a painting for a Buddhist praying ceremony, 또Young-ga-cheon-do-je(영가천도제). It shows us the lives of the commoners in those days. Gamrotaenghwa reflects the changes of costume style in the late Chosun period. The early styles of po(포, coat) for male performers in the 17th century were changeui(창의) and dopo(도포), which had the front panels(seop) overlapped deeply and sleeves that got wider as time passed. After the 18th century, Male performers wore a simpler coat such as sochangeui(소창의), which had narrow sleeves and long slits on the both sides. Especially the coats of acrobats were fastened on the center front with buttons. Heuklip(흑립: black hat), somoja(소모자: small cap) and jeonlip(전립: wool hat) were used as hats for the male performers. Originally, heuklip was the hat that represented the noble status: yangban(양반). However, it was popularized among the commoners in the late Chosun period. As time passed on, the heuklip became more popular and its shape also changed. Somoja and jeonlip were shown throughout the entire Gamrotaenghwa. Unlike heuklip, those were common hats for Sadangpae. The costumes of entertainers shown in Gamrotaenghwa were very similar to those of the commoners. However, it seems that there were some differences of the costumes depending on the roles they performed.

• 한국식생활문화학회지
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• 제33권3호
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• pp.217-228
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• 2018

This study aimed to develop unique, local "food tourism" products by finding specialized items that combine tourist attractions, such as folklore or hot springs. Traditional ingredients were analyzed with ancient texts for the methods of research. A brand image was made possible utilizing hot spring lore and other regional stories. The tofu products were produced using local specialty beans. Products, such as tofu residue cake and willow bean tea, were made with the tofu residue. After the products were completed, the sensory test began at the local tourist attraction. Asan City's food tourism product willow tofu was made with beans that were given as compensation for building the Onyang temporary palace according to the Annals of the Joseon Dynasty and the willow tree that appears in Sunshin Lee's anecdotes. After the preference test between normal tofu and willow-extract tofu was conducted to measure the product potential of willow tofu, among the sample extracts, 0.04% of the willow extract showed a significant preference. The hot spring tofu-residue cake was baked using tofu residue and vegetable olive oil to substitute for animal oil, such as butter, or margarine. After the sensory test targeting the adults was conducted, both products displayed significant product potential with average scores above 5.0. Willow tree bark, which has antioxidation and anti-inflammatory effects without a bitter taste or strong smell, was proven to bean appropriate ingredient for leached tea. The nutty flavor of leached tea was enhanced by roasted green kernel black beans and willow tree bark. The sensory test showed that the leached tea and tofu received a high preference rating on both color and flavor.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제45권2호
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• pp.233-252
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• 2021

The Gwan ceremony (冠禮) is a coming-of-age ceremony that takes place through traditional Gwan (冠: the hat) and clothes in the traditional era. The rite is performed by wearing hats and clothes three consecutive times (三加禮). It was an important rite which meant that underage children were formally recognized as members of society. This study examined costumes of people who participated in various coming-of-age ceremony rites in the Ming dynasty imperial court of China. For the research data, this study mainly used authentic chronicles (正史), codes of law and books on Ming dynasty rituals. This study examined the costumes used in the coming-of-age ceremony for the emperor, Prince Imperial, Emperor's eldest grandson, and emperor's sons. The results of this study were divided into an analysis of the document structure, institutional changes by time, characteristics of costumes, and characteristics of the rite. Of particular note in their ceremony, the emperor is presupposed to be a 'human already full-equipped with virtue', which means that the costume is worn only once. It is a case in which the emperor's absolute identity is revealed through the rite and costume.

• 건축역사연구
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• 제32권1호
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• pp.61-72
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• 2023

Korean architecture classifies Banja (the decorated flat of the ceiling visible from the inside) of Royal Palaces into two types: Woomul(water-well, 井) banja, which inserts rectangular wooden board into lattice frame, and paper banja, which applies paper to the flat ceiling. Such classification was established in the 19th century. Before that, Banja was classified according to what was inserted into the lattice frame, either wooden or paper board. At first, the banja that used paper board was widely installed regardless of the purpose or nobility of the building. However, since the 17th century, the use of paper board banja became mostly restricted to Ondol (Korean floor heating system) rooms which are characterized by private usage and the importance of heating, and it was considered inferior to wooden board banja in terms of rank or grace. The contemporary paper banja was mainly installed in low-rank ondol rooms until the late 19th century to early 20th century, when roll-type wallpaper was introduced from the West and the paper banja came to decorate the King's and Queen's bedrooms. The traditional paper board banja benefits heat reservation, reduces the weight of the ceiling, and allows the adjustment of the lattice frame size. Furthermore, it can feature unique artistry if covered with blue, white, or red Neung-hwa-ji (traditional flower pattered paper).

• 천문학회보
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• 제46권2호
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• pp.65.1-65.1
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• 2021

The Donggungilgi (東宮日記) is the daily records of the Siganwon (侍講院), which was a royal office in the Joseon dynasty that took charge of the education for the crown prince who dwelled in the Donggung (East Palace). This literature contains records of meteorological and astronomical observations as well as educational matters. The Sohyeon-Donggungilgi (昭顯東宮日記) includes records from 1625 to 1645, when Prince Sohyeon, the first son of King Injo (仁祖), was the crown prince. We investigate the records of solar halo observations in the Sohyeon-Donggungilgi. For consistency, we restrict our investigation to the period before the second Manchu invasion of Korea (i.e., 1625 to 1635). We extract 2,684 records and classify them into ten events according to the terms in their descriptions. The largest and smallest number of observation records are for the Hun (暈) and Geuk (戟) events (1,794 and 7 records, respectively). To verify what each event represents in modern atmospheric terms, we refer to historical documents of the Seoungwanji (書雲觀志, Treaties on the Bureau of Astronomy) and Cheonmundaeseong (天文大成, Great Achievements in Astronomy). We also calculate the solar altitude based on the observation hour and compare the descriptions to compute simulations provided by Arbeitskreis Meteore e.V.. We find that the descriptions of the Hun, Junghun (重暈), Yi (珥), and Baekhonggwanil (白虹貫日) events indicate a 22˚ halo, 22˚ and 46˚ halos, a parhelion, and a parhelic circle, respectively, Alternatively, we estimate that the Gwan (冠), Dae (戴), Bae (背), Li (履), and Gyohun (交暈) events describe arcs tangent to a 22˚ or 46˚ halo such as a upper or lower tangent arc, a circumzenithal arc, or a parry arc. We suggest that further studies are required for the Geuk event because the descriptions of this event differ from both documents referred to this study. In the sense that the number of observation records of the Geuk event is the smallest, however, this event may describe a rare phenomenon. We believe that this work will contribute to the study of historical records of solar or lunar halos.

• 한국전통조경학회지
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• 제30권3호
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• pp.42-56
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• 2012

본 연구는 창덕궁 후정에 위치한 옥류천 영역의 핵심경물인 위이암의 조영특성과 사용된 경관 설계기법을 구명하는 것으로서, 대상지의 조영기법, 공간 구성 및 변천과정과 이용실태에 대한 조사가 이루어졌다. 이에 대한 집약된 결과는 다음과 같다. 첫째, 옥류천 위이암은 큰 암반을 뫼산(山)자의 형상으로 다듬은 경물로 조성되었으며, 유배거에는 물을 공급하기 위해 바위 한 틈에 석수로를 파고 어구의 물을 끌어들였다. 위이암의 폭포는 본래 물이 바닥을 타고 흐르는 급류로 조성되었으나, 고종 연간에 암반을 네모지게 깎아서 이낙[현폭]의 효과를 주도록 개축되었다. 둘째, 동궐도에 나타난 위이암의 주요한 특징으로는 위이암 배후에 방형의 지당과 흙으로 쌓은 언덕이 나타나는 것이며, 위이암 측면에도 계류를 만들어 그윽한 산천(山川)의 풍경을 연출하였다. 또한 옥류천에 건립된 소요정, 청의정, 태극정은 모두 위이암을 감상하기 위한 조망지로 건립된 것으로 판단되며, 이들 조망지에서는 청의정지, 태극정지와 같은 별도의 수계를 조성하여 조망처의 기능에 구속되지 않고, 각 지점에서 색다른 흥미를 느낄 수 있도록 배려한 경관 설계기법이 돋보였다. 한편, 옥류천에 내재된 공간구성 요소인 위이암의 석경, 입체적 물소리, 독특한 수계와 화사한 식물소재는 감상자에게 심리적 안정을 주고 심신을 정화시켜 주는 역할을 하였던 것으로 판단하였다. 셋째, 옥류천의 공간구성이 파격적으로 변형된 고종 21년(1884년)의 변화상은 소요정 앞의 배수를 개선하기 위해 계류와 소요정의 담장을 없애고 소요정의 양 측면에 배수시설을 설치한 것이 확인되는바, 기존의 불리한 배수환경을 개선하고자 하는 자구책에 의한 것이었다고 판단하였다.

• 한국전통조경학회지
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• 제39권1호
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• pp.10-19
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• 2021

본 연구는 낙선재, 주합루, 존덕정, 대보단지를 중심으로 근현대기 창덕궁 내 주요 점경물의 실상과 변형 양상을 고찰하였다. 전각, 식생, 구조물과 달리 상대적으로 관심이 저조했던 점경물에 대해 과거부터 현재까지의 변화상을 조명하기 위한 의도이다. 본 연구의 성과는 향후 창덕궁 내 점경물의 복원정비계획 수립에 요긴한 자료로 활용될 수 있을 것이다. 연구의 주요 결과는 다음과 같이 정리할 수 있다. 첫째, 1901년 체코인 브라즈가 촬영한 사진에 따르면 당시 낙선재 후원에는 석지(石池)와 괴석을 비롯해 총 6기의 점경물이 소재했다. 후원의 지면에는 금사연지(琴史硯池)로 불리는 석지와 괴석 2기, 화계 1단에는 괴석 3기가 배치되어 있었다. 해방 이후부터 괴석의 임의적인 재배치가 빈번하게 발생했으며, 그 과정에서 본래 화계 1단에 위치했던 괴석 2기는 경훈각(景薰閣) 후원으로 이설된 상태이다. 둘째, 「동궐도」가 제작된 조선후기와 달리 1900년대 초반 주합루 후원에는 괴석 2기가 대칭으로 배치되어 있었다. 외형, 규격, 의장이 유사한 전통적 양식의 점경물이었다. 하지만 주합루 후원의 괴석은 모두 1970~1980년대에 타지로 이설되어 현재는 고유위치를 벗어난 상태이다. 1기는 빙천(氷泉) 입구와 금천교 인근을 거쳐 애련정 후면에, 또 다른 1기는 연경당 장락문(長樂門) 앞에 남아 있다. 셋째, 과거 존덕정 일곽에 소재했던 점경물 중 괴석 1기는 현재 구성 부재가 분리된 상태로 정자 주변 석교와 영화당 인근에 분산 배치되어 있다. 영화당 인근의 대석은 1990년 무렵 앙부일구 모조품을 설치하기 위한 용도로 이설되었다. 또 다른 괴석 1기는 후원 정문으로 이설된 이후 현재는 소재 파악이 어려우며, 본래 위치에는 완전히 상이한 형태의 점경물이 새롭게 배치되어 있다. 넷째, 대보단지에 현존하고 있는 대석 2기는 일제강점기 당시 이왕직청사(李王職廳舍) 현관 기둥의 초석으로 사용되던 건축 부재였다. 해방 이후 이왕직청사가 구황실재산사무총국으로 개편되고, 1960년 무렵 사무총국 건물이 전소되자 기단 위에 배치되어 있던 석상(石像)과 대석이 대보단지로 이설되었다. 대보단지의 대석은 건축부재가 점경물로 오인되고 있는 대표적 사례이다.

• 천문학논총
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• 제36권3호
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• pp.65-78
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• 2021

Jagyeokru, an automatic striking water clock described in the Sejong Sillok (Veritable Records of King Sejong) is essentially composed of a water quantity control device and a time-signal device, with the former controlling the amount or the flow rate of water and the latter automatically informing the time based on the former. What connects these two parts is a signal generating device or a power transmission device called the 'Jujeon' system, which includes a copper rod on the float and ball-racked scheduled plates. The copper products excavated under Gongpyeong-dong in Seoul include a lot of broken plate pieces and cylinder-like devices. If some plate pieces are put together, a large square plate with circular holes located in a zigzag can be completed, and at the upper right of it is carved 'the first scheduled plate (一箭).' Cylinder-like devices generally 3.8 cm in diameter are able to release a ball, and have a ginkgo leaf-like screen fixed on the inner axis and a bird-shaped hook of which the leg fixes another axis and the beak attaches to the leaf side. The lateral view of this cylinder-like device appears like a trapezoid and mounts an iron ball. The function of releasing a ball agrees with the description of Borugak Pavilion, where Jagyeokru was installed, written by Kim Don (1385 ~ 1440). The other accounts of Borugak Pavilion's and Heumgyeonggak Pavilion's water clocks describe these copper plates and ball releasing devices as the 'Jujeon' system. According to the description of Borugak Pavilion, a square wooden column has copper plates on the left and right sides the same height as the column, and the left copper plate has 12 drilled holes to keep the time of a 12 double-hours. Meanwhile, the right plate has 25 holes which represent seasonal night 5-hours (Kyeong) and their 5-subhours (Jeom), not 12 hours. There are 11 scheduled plates for seasonal night 5-hours made with copper, which are made to be attached or detached as the season. In accordance with Nujutongui (manual for the operation of the yardstick for the clepsydra), the first scheduled plate for the night is used from the winter solstice (冬至) to 2 days after Daehan (大寒), and from 4 days before Soseol (小雪) to a day before the winter solstice. Besides the first scheduled plate, we confirm discovering a third scheduled plate and a sixth scheduled plate among the excavated copper materials based on the spacing between holes. On the other hand, the width of the scheduled plate is different for these artifacts, measured as 144 mm compared to the description of the Borugak Pavilion, which is recorded as 51 mm. From this perspective, they may be the scheduled plates for the Heumgyeonggak Ongru made in 1438 (or 1554) or for the new Fortress Pavilion installed in Changdeokgung palace completed in 1536 (the 31^st year of the reign of King Jungjong) in the early Joseon dynasty. This study presents the concept of the scheduled plates described in the literature, including their new operating mechanism. In addition, a detailed model of 11 scheduled plates is designed from the records and on the excavated relics. It is expected that this study will aid in efforts to restore and reconstruct the automatic water clocks of the early Joseon dynasty.