• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.5
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• pp.51-61
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• 2015

This study examines the types and forms of underwear worn during the Joseon Dynasty period, and the purpose of this study is to apply the Joseon underwear design elements into designs of modern clothes, and make clothes that have practical use. In addition, it examines natural dyeing in the production of works, using a dye that contains tannin to increase color fastness. This study, first, looked into the types of female underwear during the late-Joseon Dynasty period through literature research and literature study. Second, the study chose artificial silk material (rayon), which was applied with dye containing tannin, and then with indigo (Jjok) and a different dye. Also, the study tested color fastness by washing the material, and rubbing fastness was tested if the material was either dyed with indigo. if it was dyed first with dye stuff containing tannin, and then with indigo dyeing color. Third, using the underwear types in the Joseon Dynasty period, the study developed and produced a dress, a skirt and pants that could be worn in modern life on a daily basis by applying Mujigi-chima (underwearskirt), Dan-sokgot (slip), Salchang-gojaengi (loosedrawers) and Sok-baji (bloomers) forms. Dresses applying underwear skirt using naturally-dyed artificial silk, dresses applying Salchang-gojaengi, dresses applying Dan-sokgot, skirt without a crotch designed in the form of pant swith an open crotch, and pant skirt with a crotch-applying pants with an open crotch were produced. In the future, hopefully, various studies of collaborations of Korean traditional clothing, and natural dyeing will continue to kee) the tradition alive.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.5
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• pp.102-117
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• 2008

This study shows the badge system for military officials of Joseon dynasty. The badge system for military officials of the 15th century consists of rank badges with tiger and leopard for the first and second ranks and rank badges with bear for the third rank. According to the code of laws, military officials are supposed to wear the rank badges with four different kinds of animals in Joseon dynasty. However, the badge system shown in the code of laws sometimes does not match with the badges in practices. Based on the literature, remaining badges and the badges in portraits, six different kinds of badges with animals are found : First, rank badges with tiger and leopard were used until the late 16th century. Second, rank badges with tiger were found in the period between the early 17th century and the latter 18th century. Third, rank badges with Haechi were found in the early 17th century. Fourth, rank badges with lions can be found in remains of the mid 17th century, the literature and the portrait of the late 18th century. Finally, the rank badges with double leopards or with single leopard were found from a portrait dated the late of 18th century to the last period of Joseon dynasty.

• The Journal of Korean Medical History
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• v.33 no.2
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• pp.105-127
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• 2020

The three major medical compilations of the Joseon Dynasty, Hyangyak-jipseongbang, Uibang-yuchwi, and Dongui-bogam, directly cited a total of 376 kinds of medical books. Among them, 11 medical books were commonly referred: Gyeongheom-yangbang, Deukyobang, Saminbang, Seonmyeongnon, Seongje-chongnok, Seonghyebang, Eoui-chwaryo, Yeongnyu-geombang, Wisaeng-bogam, Cheongeumbang, and Tangaek-boncho. Most of them were medical classics and formularies representing the period from the Song to the early Ming Dynasties, which most likely influenced the establishment of Joseon's medical tradition throughout the Joseon Dynasty. The reason why the majority of the medical reference books was formularies seems to be that prescription practices and the use of medicinals value knowledge with accumulated experience over a long period, whereas medical ideas and doctrines change with time. Besides, except for Eoui-chwaryo compiled in the Goryeo Dynasty, the three significant compilations referred to Chinese medical books, which indicates that the compilers made efforts to accommodate the newly introduced foreign knowledge. At the same time, the former compilations, Hyangyak-jipseongbang and Uibang-yuchwi, later appeared as primary references in Dongui-bogam's Medical Formularies of Successive Generations. However, in order to avoid overlapping the same contents, the compilers tried to form a differentiated version by extracting only the unique contents.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.10
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• pp.135-150
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• 2011

The ranking belts for Joseon dynasty officials that are based on references and relics are studied in this paper in terms of architecture, detailed names, and structural changes according to different time. Officials' uniforms consist of hats, clothes, belts, and shoes. Among these, the belt is an important sign that represents the wearer's ranking. The ranking belts of the Joseon dynasty which were brought from Ming at the late stage of the Koryo dynasty became classified as the following four classes : Seo-dai(a rhinoceros' horn, 犀帶), Gum-dai(gold, 金帶), Eun-dai(silver, 銀帶), and Heug-gag-dai(black horn, 黑角帶). A ranking belt consists of a basic belt body and a plaque that represents the wearer's rank. A plaque consists of 20 plates: three front-center plates that represent the Sam-tai(三台) constellation, six front-side plates that represent the Namduyug constellation(南斗六星), seven back plates that represent the Big Dipper(北斗七星), left side Bo(輔), right side Pil(弼), and a couple of Tamie at both ends. The architecture of the belt body; the basic frame for ranking belts, shows some differences between the former and the latter periods of the Joseon dynasty. In the former period, the belt had a pair of a buckle so that the wearers were able to adjust the belt size. But later, the belt didn't have the buckles to adjust the belt size and consequently it only performed a locking or unlocking function. Therefore, the belts in the latter period were longer than normal and one size fit all. In addition to the functional change of buckles, the shapes of the ranking belts show changes from the round shape to the square shape as time goes on.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.38 no.5
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• pp.755-768
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• 2014

This study explores the situation of domestic production and import of dyes as well as type of dye supplier and type of dyer in the Joseon Dynasty based on an analysis of relevant documents. The findings are as follows. Many kinds of natural dyes and natural mordant were produced in the Joseon Dynasty. Some were imported from other countries when in short supply or for diplomatic reasons. As the government organization in charge of the dyes supply and demand, the Jeyonggam was cooperated with the Gongin merchants. As private merchants, there existed Hwapijeon merchants and Cheongramgye merchants. Cheongramgye merchants were both the producer and the seller of indigo sediment. There existed two types of dyers, such as government-operated dyers and private dyers. The Yeomjang (master dyers) and Yeommo (female dyers) were subjugated to government departments in the early part of Joseon Dynasty, but gradually allowed to pursue self-profit. The Yeomga was the private dye house that existed in the early period of the Joseon Dynasty. Ladies and female servants were also allowed to dye for family use or to help in livelihoods. Jeonyeomga was a branch specialized in indigo dyeing. Lastly, the Yoemgye were the merchants of dyed paper and textiles as well as dyers.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.1
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• pp.76-90
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• 2010

Gwa-du(裹肚), name of a garment, appears often from documentary records of Joseon Dynasty. It is assumed as one of the upper garments for men, and according to the record, it was worn as a set with Dan-ryung(團領), Dap-ho(搭胡), Chul-rik(帖裏), Han-sam(汗衫), pants and socks. After the Japanese Invasion of Korea in the 17th century, it changes to a shape of wrapping clothes with straps at four corners, and used to cover the stomach of a corpse like sash. From 16th-17th century, before the Japanese Invasion of Korea, the excavated costume shows a clothing which takes a role of Jegori, longer than Han-sam(汗衫) and shorter than Po(袍). In this study, this clothing is called Gwa-du(裹肚). This study examined the usage and shape of Kwa-du from some documentary records- "朝鮮王朝實錄-The Annals of the Joseon Dynasty", "禮書- Book of Manners", "宮中件記- Googjoonghalkee, recording court goods and commodities lists" and more with actual clothing. Kwa-du is presumed to have changed to men's Jegori So-chang-ui(小氅衣) after 17th century.

• Journal of Korea Technical Association of The Pulp and Paper Industry
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• v.40 no.1
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• pp.55-61
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• 2008

The annals of Joseon Dynasty is the most valuable resource containing the record of Korean history and has been known as one of the UNESCO's Memory of the World Register. In some period, wax-treated paper was used in the annals of Joseon Dynasty to prevent the damage from pests. But, wax-treated volumes were discolored to brown, white or black, and partially cracked by the stiffened wax. It means that wax-treated volumes were damaged by the hardening and oxidizing of wax. The wax is considered as the first reason in damages on the wax-treated volume. Therefore, in this study we analysed the oxidation index of Korea traditional paper(Hanji) which is used as the restoration paper of the waxed volume in the annals of Joseon Dynasty by using FT-IR. As the analysis of FT-IR, the traditional two-layed stamping paper (Hanji sample F), which was treated by starch in its surface, was shown the most stable state after the accelerated ageing test.

• The Journal of Korean Medical History
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• v.35 no.1
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• pp.59-67
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• 2022

The medical text books used during the Joseon Dynasty can be seen to change over time by examining various records. These records show that the list of medical textbooks suddenly changed a lot between the era of King Sejong and Sejo in the Joseon Dynasty. However, since there are not many studies on this topic yet, this study was conducted and the following causes of these changes were identified: The first reason is the compilation project of Euibangyoochui (醫類聚聚) because the date of compilation of Euibangyoochui is clearly related to the period of change to the list of medical textbooks. The second reason is the difficulty of the medical examination during the Joseon Dynasty. Medical tests in the Joseon Dynasty were very difficult. Therefore, it was too unrealistic to keep 25 or 26 textbooks. Third, there was the problem of supply and demand of medical textbooks. Because the prices of these books were very high at that time, owning 25 or 26 medical books for an individual was a significant financial hardship. This study was able to confirm this through various forms of circumstantial evidence. However, more historical materials should be discovered in the future and research should be conducted to more accurately grasp the situation of the time.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Food Culture
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• v.31 no.6
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• pp.554-572
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• 2016

This study is a comparative study on a cookbook published in 1900s titled "Jusikbangmun", one of collections of the National Central Library, along with other cookery books in Joseon Dynasty in the late 1800s to early 1900s. "Jusikbangmun" consists of 51 recipes, including 45 kinds of staple foods and six kinds of brews. More than 60% of the recipes deal with staple dishes and side-dishes, whereas the rest deal with ceremonial dishes and drinking. The "Jusikbangmun" applies a composite method of cooking from boiling and steaming to seasoning with oil spices. The ingredients are largely meats rather than vegetables, which is distinguished other cookery books in the Joseon Dynasty. Only "Jusikbangmun" deals with such peculiar recipes as 'Kanmagitang', 'Bookyengsumyentang', 'Jeryukpyen', 'Yangsopyen', and 'Dalgihye'. It is estimated that "Jusikbangmun" was published around the 1900s based on findings that "Jusikbangmun" is more similar with "Buinpilgi" and "Joseonyorijebeop" in the early 1900s than with "Kyuhapchongseo", "Siyijenseo" and "Jusiksieui" in 1800s. Therefore, "Jusikbangmun" is a valuable resource, we can use understand the food culture of the late Joseon period.

• Applied Chemistry for Engineering
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.151-156
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• 2008

The annals of Joseon Dynasty is the most valuable resource containing the record of Korean history and has been known as one of the UNESCO's Memory of the World Register. There was a period that the annals of Joseon Dynasty was used with beeswax to control pests. It is considered as the prior reason of damage on the annals of Joseon Dynasty. Therefore, in this study we analysed the spectrum of traditional paper inside and outside of Korea, beeswax and accelerated artificial aging paper to restore the waxed volume in the annals of Joseon Dynasty by using FT-IR. As a result of FT-IR analysis, spectrum did not showed its big difference in all paper used in this study. However, there was a different spectrum in paper which was made with not Broussonetia kazinoki, but Echinochloa crus-galli var. frumentacea and Dioscorea batatas. Among traditional papers in various countries, spectrum of Korean paper showed the most similarity from the annals of Joseon Dynasty. In comparison between accelerated artificial aging paper and waxed volume, we could identify the change of spectrum affected by the damage.