• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.10
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• pp.24-34
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to examine the pieces of 100 fabrics excavated from unknown woman's tomb Incheon, by analyzing woven methods, names of the fabrics, the kinds and the shapes of the patterns. The characteristics to assume the period of the fabrics are as follows. The geumsundan which was woven peacock insignia at chest and back area was excavated for the first time from the tomb of Joseon. Peacock insignia woven with satin weave using supplementary golden wefts, wrapped gold thread. These kind of fabrics were usually imported in the $15^{th}$ century, according to the old documents, 'Nogeoldae' 'Joseonwangjosilrok' written at the end of Goryeo or early in Joseon. Thus, these relics are from about $15^{th}$ century. From this tomb, the mixture fabric of cotton and ramie are excavated. According to another excavated cases, the mixture fabric of cotton and ramie appears from the period before the Japanese Invasion of Korea in 1592, and after the invasion, there are usually mixture fabric of cotton and silk. This also tells that these fabrics show the characteristics of those from the early period of Joseon Dynasty. The rounded patterns of Jangot is only shown from the fabrics of late Goryeo Dynasty, and the cloud pattern of an upper garment with a squared neckline is shown from the early Joseon Dynasty. So, the patterns from these excavated costumes are ranged from the late Goryeo Dynasty to the early Joseon Dynasty. To assume the period through the overall study above, these relics show the characteristics of the $15^{th}$ century fabric.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.10
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• pp.51-67
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• 2009

The study is about 'Dap-ho', a kind of men's coat in the early, and mid period of Joseon Dynasty. The study examined the kinds, color, and fabric of Dap-ho from "The Annals of the Joseon Dynasty". It also examined the characteristic, and the change of shape through excavated costume, and the period is limited until early 17th century. In "The Annals of the Joseon Dynasty", there is record of Dap-ho from King Sejong period to Gwang-hae-gun period. After 160 years, it appears again in King Young-jo period, and remains until King Soon-jong period. It was mentioned 168 times, from over 100 cases. There are 26 colors of Dap-ho from "The Annals of the Joseon Dynasty", and among them, green appears the most. Thin fabric, like Joo [紬], Sa[紗], and Cho[綃] was used often, and there are records of double layered, and cotton padded Dap-ho. The period when Dap-ho appears as excavated costume is almost the same as, "The Annals of the Joseon Dynasty" and disappears after the decease of Dae-ho Kang(1541-1624), and Sun-un Yun(1580~1628). After in this period, Dan-ryung, and Jik-ryung changes into double layered clothes, and Jik-ryung functioned as the underclothes of Dan-ryung, instead of Dap-ho. The excavated costumes of Hwak Kim(1572~1633), and Eung-hae Lee(1547~1626) proofs this. But Dap-ho was called 'Jun-bok', 'Dugree', Que-ja', and 'Dap-ho' until the later period of Joseon Dynasty.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.53 no.3
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• pp.164-183
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• 2020

In the textile culture of the Joseon Dynasty, the historic record of Banpo is fragmentary and contains many missing details. The main reason is a lack of associated literature, and it is also significant that the actual substance used is not clear at present. Banpo is a kind of cotton, but this has not been confirmed in the traditional textiles that are currently handed down. The word Ban [斑] in Banpo means "stain", and the letter Po [布] means "fabric". At the border of white discourse, Banpo did not receive attention as a research topic. This study is an attempt to restore some of the textile culture of the Joseon Dynasty through Banpo. Banpo is not just limited to the Joseon Dynasty; it is an important material for examining the development of textile culture and exchange in East Asia. This study was broadly divided into three parts. First, the record and meaning of Banpo during the Joseon Dynasty were examined. Records of Banpo can be seen from the early Joseon period during King Sejo and Seongjong, and the production and actual use of Banpo have been confirmed. Banpo was maintained until the beginning of the 20^th century, but is no longer observed. Banpo is a woven fabric made of cotton yarn dyed in many colors and has appeared in Southeast Asia since ancient times. In East Asia, there are other fabrics similar to Banpo, such as Ho [縞], Sum [纖], and Chim [綅]. In particular, the correlation between Banpo and Ho is an important link in understanding Banpo in the Joseon Dynasty. Second, the meaning of Banpo was examined from various angles through comprehensive analysis of Chinese and Japanese literature records and cases. The appearance and development of Banpo moved in sync with the period when cotton was introduced into East Asia. In East Asia, cotton was introduced and produced in earnest from the end of the Song Dynasty to the beginning of the Yuan Dynasty, and the meaning of Banpo was diversified. In China, the name of Banpo was changed to Hwapo [花布], Gizapo [碁子布], Gizahwapo [棋子花布], etc. Japan was late to introduce cotton and developed it in acceptance of the changed meaning. In Japan, use of the name Banpo is not on record, but a Ryujo [柳條] fabric of the same type as banpo has been identified. This Ryujo is the same concept as Ho and Hwapo, and later merged into Ho. Names such as Ho, Hwapo, Banpo, etc. were used differently in each country, but the form was shared across East Asia. Third, based on the meaning of Banpo shared in East Asia, the format of Banpo in the Joseon Dynasty was classified. The format of Banpo in the Joseon Dynasty can be divided into grid and striped versions. The name Banpo disappeared over time, but the form remained and was passed down until recently. I hope that this study will help restore Banpo in the future.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.8
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• pp.76-89
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• 2013

This study is about 'asymmetry triangle-Mu' Jeoksam and Hansam in the early days of Joseon Dynasty. A study was done regarding the records of Jeoksam and Hansam in literature, the present state of the excavated 'asymmetry triangle-Mu' clothing Jeoksam and Hansam, and finally a deduction of the reason for the appearance of the 'asymmetry triangle-Mu' clothing Jeoksam and Hansam. The width of front length of 'asymmetry triangle-Mu' clothing in the early days of Joseon Dynasty is 29.5~35 cm and the width of one breath of the sleeve is 29.5~35 cm. The width of 'asymmetry triangle-Mu' is 9.5~16 cm and it is relatively big. Comparing to the width of one breath of the sleeve, it is almost 1:2.2~3.6 ratio. Therefore, when the sleeve was cut, the Mu was linked in order to save fabric the gusset of sleeve had to be folded and turned, and finally it became asymmetric. As a result of the above consideration, since the width of upper garments of $16{\sim}17^{th}$ century was big, the wearing of short tops of Jeoksam or Hansam without side vent as a small 'triangle-Mu' was uncomfortable. Because of this reason, the size had no option but to become bigger. So, during the $16^{th}$ and $17^{th}$ century, a period where mass production of fabric was difficult, the 'asymmetry triangle-Mu' type was considered to be a reasonable cutting method. After the middle of $17^{th}$ century, it can be estimated that 'asymmetry triangle-Mu' clothing disappeared according to the narrow aspect of clothing type.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.2
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• pp.102-115
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• 2011

This study is about reproduction of Yoseon-Cheobli excavated from Byun-su tomb in earlier Joseon Dynasty. There are three Yoseon-Cheobli in Byun-su tomb. The producing process is made in concrete by suggesting the process of producing clothing. Based on the Annals of the Joseon Dynasty, the most frequently recorded one, was reproduced by dying fabric with safflower and indigo plants. Through the research about their specific size, sewing method and construction, it have been produced in the following. First, the revealing that collar to be half-square and to compose the line in the center of collar. The width of the collar is 11.6 12.1cm. Second, the 21~22 pairs of waist lines that are 13~14cm in width fixed at intervals of 0.3cm. The method of making waist lines is twisting either fabrics or silk threads. Third, fine gathering around the part of the waist of skirt, and the size of fold surface is 0.2cm. Sewing method needs running stitch and backstitch. As the result of producing the cloth, it became to possess more ornamental features after transformation suitable to the new environment while the same remained functional features for everyday life such as a dressing shape, length of the bodice and curvy completion line of a collar strip.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.105-115
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• 2018

This paper presents an investigation into Cheollik based on 288 records about it at the homepage of The Annals of the Joseon Dynasty on the Internet. Cheollik was called in diverse names and worn by various social classes from kings to common people, but it was solidified as clothes for military officers toward the latter half of Joseon. Not only did it serve the purpose of clothes, but it also was used for a royal grant, diplomacy, shrouding a corpse, and royal coffin. It served the diplomatic purposes a lot especially during the reign of King Sejo and King Seongjong. Cheollik was usually made of cotton, hemp, silk, and mixed fabric with silk used most. Its major colors include white, green, red, blue, black, purple, grey, and yellow with white used most. The fabrics and colors of Cheollik became simplified toward the latter half of Joseon. Silk was most used in Cheollik for a royal grant, shrouding a corpse, and royal coffin. White was most used in Cheollik for kings' visit to royal tombs or their participation in ancestral rites. There were limitations with the selection of materials according to the social status and situations. It was stipulated that only Sa and Ju were used to make Cheollik for Dangsangguan and Danghaguan. Cheollik made of silk was banned for country residents and merchants. The color of Cheollik for Danghaguan was changed to blue and then red. Of military officers, only those who had a Gonsu title or higher were allowed to wear Cheollik made of silk in various colors. In the end, Cheollik was abolished for its low convenience and efficiency during the rule of King Gojong.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.22 no.5
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• pp.670-687
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• 2014

This study focused on Jungchimak (coats with side slits) which was typically worn by men in the mid and late Joseon Dynasty. It was done research by examining the case of wearing Jungchimak centering on literature and paintings and analyzing its changes in terms of its form based on the relics that have been found in order to suggest the standard for the evaluation of the period of Jungchimak. Results are as follows. First, men who wore Jungchimak were the king, crown prince and Aristocratic under the official uniform or other robes or as ordinary clothes and shroud. Second, Jungchimak for king was mostly made of Dan (satin damask) and mostly jade green & navy in color, and it commonly used dragon pattern, cloud and treasure pattern, or grape pattern. The fabric used to make Jungchimak for crown prince was Dan & Ju (coarse-finished silk) and puple, green, jade green & navy in color. The fabric used to make Jungchimak for Aristocratic was Ju and indigo or white in color. Third, 251 relics have been announced until now. Most of them were made of silk fabric and had cloud and flower patterns. Fourth, Jungchimak showed changes through time in terms of collar and sleeve shapes, the ratio of armhole to sleeve opening, Geotseop (panel sewn on front opening for overlapping), Dang and Mu (side panel), the ratio of the total length of outer collar to the length of side slits, and the ratio of chest size to the width of lower end.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.4
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• pp.158-167
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• 2013

The cotton fabric armour for lower class soldiers can be found from the historical records of the mid-Joseon Korea. And the records show that the form and the structure of the armour was modified in the late 19th century in order to provide better protection from gunshots for the soldiers in the midst of the invasions from the West. This is a survey and research of the only artifact of the cotton fabric armour remaining in Korea - for its form, dimensions, and design. Using the historical records as reference, we can confirm the structure and characteristics of the cotton fabric armour of the Joseon period. This cotton fabric armour, preserved in National Museum of Korea, is a vest-type armour made of 30 layers of cotton. On the right shoulder, there is a button for tying knots and strings were tied under both armpits. On the surface of the cotton fabric armour there were some characters and patterns stamped in black. Presently, this artifact in Korea is the only specimen relic of its sort, but there are some other related relics in foreign countries including helmets and belts. Continuous researches would help extend the scope of armour study beyond the traditional researches that only focuses on the armours of the officials, thus helping us to understand the military costumes in traditional Korea.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.4
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• pp.35-46
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to closely examine the history of glasses and their cases used in the middle and late of Joseon Dynasty and identify inherent quality of our traditional glasses cases through color analyses of glasses cases' material and shape. While theoretical examination was conducted based on the literatures of glasses and their cases that firstly appeared in around Japanese Invasion (Imjin war) of Korea in 1592, practical analyses were demonstrated on photos of glasses cases used in the middle and late of Joseon Dynasty collected from both museum pieces and the internet which were grouped into wood, fabric, paper, sharkskin, hawksbill and cow's horn in accordance with their materials. 623 color samples were abstracted from collected 159 glasses cases and quantity analyses on each material were performed respectively. Abstracted representative colors based on the result of color analyses were classified into the main materials and accessories' color scheme. The result of this study are as follow: firstly, both Yellow and Yellow Red were mostly used in main materials. In Fabric case's colors were widely used in embroidery and in animal matter material cases such as sharkskin, hawksbill and cow's horn, which can be used as itself or dyed, Green Yellow shown in high frequency. Secondly, accessories were analyzed into similarity coloration with main materials. From this finding, it turns out that our traditional cases have characteristic of similarity coloration between main materials and accessories. Red Purple and Purple Blue in high frequency in accessories used as an accent color. Finally, based on the analysis of hue and tone, while the middle and low value colors shown in very high frequency, the high-chroma colors hardly shown.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.40 no.5
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• pp.855-866
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• 2016

This study explored the concept and use of two kinds of textiles goods (Cheongpo [blue textile] and Samseung) sold by Cheongpo-jeon merchants in the Joseon Dynasty of Korea. Research was conducted based on an analysis of relevant documents published during the Joseon Dynasty. The Cheongpo-jeon was a merchant group that predated 1637. They sold various imported goods such as Cheongpo, Samseung, cotton textiles, felts, hats, incense, and needles. Cheongpo and Samseung were the main products among these imported goods. Cheongpo was a blue cotton textile imported from China that was sold by Chengpo-jeon merchants. The Samseung sold by merchants was a kind of imported textile whose surface provided a feeling like cotton flannel. The concept of the two textiles were different from existing ideas. Generally, the Cheongpo was believed to be a hemp fabric dyed in blue and the Samseung was a textile with a density of three seung (a traditional density unit of textiles). Cheongpo was used as a currency for war supplies during the two Japanese invasions of Korea (1592 to 1598). In addition, it was also used to make military uniforms, tents, and flags after the Japanese invasion. Samseung was used in the combat uniforms of Chinese soldiers from Ming China during the Japanese invasion of Korea. In addition, it was continuously used to make quilted gambeson amour and some of military uniforms until the $19^{th}$ century.