• 복식문화연구
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• 제5권4호
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• pp.80-88
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• 1997

The purpose of this study was to identify the denotating of visual message and linguistic message in the advertisement of Jean-wear, and to identify the image type in the advertisement of Jean-wear. Content analysis was done using the advertisement of Jean-wear from several fashion magazines which were published from January, 1996 to August, 1997. The advertisement of Jean-wear reflects the reality using the photos, and is image appeal type, appeals to the model\`s lifestyle, the western value. And that mostly singles person was appeared in the advertisement means solitude in modern society.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제8권2호
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• pp.37-45
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• 2006

Jean Paul Gaultier, debuted in 1970's and referred to as a bad boy in Paris fashion industry with his abnormal and ingenious ideas such as skirts for men, underwear outfit, etc, is a leading fashion designer. This study nay find its meaning from the fact that this study defines how the voluptuous beauty, one of the figurative beauties inherent in Jean Paul Gaultier's design, expresses in the movie costume and understands the world of the designer's fashion to provide a foundation to fashion designers who are looking for a new area where they can actively involve in. For the study, the 'The Fifth Element (1997)', in which the voluptuous beauty, Jean Paul Gaultier's representative figurative beauty, is fully revealed, and also it is his latest movie he participated in as costume designer, was selected and costume design is analyzed using DVD screen capture program. Also, this study reviewed his design with his collections from 1997 when he was invited to Haute Couture and began to actively perform his works down to date and also referred to numerous materials, fashion magazines, movie magazines, Internet data and etc. From the results of analyzing Jean Paul Gaultier collections, firs, the beauty he is pursuing is projected broadly in three types- the voluptuous beauty from clothing innovation, the voluptuous beauty from unpolished nature, the voluptuous beauty from exposure. Second, the movie ${\ulcorner}$The Fifth Element${\lrcorner}$ is well revealed the world of Jean Paul Gaultier's art presenting visual amusement and variety of attractions. Finally, the results of analyzing costume by characters say that the clothing innovation and the voluptuous beauty from exposure on Leeloo's costume, the voluptuous beauty from exposure on Korben Dallas's costume, the voluptuous beauty from unpolished nature on Zorg and Ruby Rhod's costumes are well shown respectively.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제32권2호
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• pp.271-283
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to provide information on how to improving wearing sensation and fit of boots-cut jean through analysis of the actual wearing conditions and dissatisfaction. In order to compile the information about dissatisfaction with the appropriateness of the fit of boots-cut jean, a questionnaire was administered to 150 females(between the ages of 20 and 39) living in Gwang-ju, analyzed using the SPSS WIN 12.0 program. Also, 6 blue jean manufactures were investigated, the study method was a interview about company present status, sizing system and pattern of boots-cut jean. The result of this study were as follow: 1. In wearing conditions, the 20's(51.6%) to 30's(69.1%) is found the best preferred jean is boots-cut style. The reason why consumers prefer boots-cut jeans with wearing fit does to seem charming bodyline of the adult female. 2. Body type groups by drop was classified with the usual waist, the thick waist, the thin waist. The differences among age groups, body type and so on were compared using the chi-square test. Dissatisfaction of the fit of the thick waist and the thin waist was higher than the usual waist. 3. Research on the production sizing system of 6 blue jean brands showed the total sizing system of each manufacture were $3{\sim}9$, they were reflected the sizing system of the korean Industrial Standards(KS K 0051). Therefore, it is considered necessary for boots-cut jeans pattern and sizing system for Korean consumer's body shape.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제15권6호
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• pp.1063-1071
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• 2006

Fetishism, which has been a taboo for a long time, is stimulating the modem people's emotions by being reborn as a fashion trend by a number of designers like Jean Paul Gaultier, Vivienne Westwood and Claud Montana. Especially, Jean Paul Gaultier, called the bad boy of the fashion industry, is leading the Paris fashion world by expressing his unique fetish elements with his fantastic and uncommon ideas-males' wearing of skirts, wearing underwear like outer garments. Therefore, this study is aimed at investigating how his fetishism is shown in his works, understanding his fetish fashion world in the modem fashion and offering a new stepping-stone for fashion designers to actively participate in new fashion areas. Its results are as follows. First, it was found that the sensual designer Jean Paul Gaultier has been expressing his unique fetish elements in his collections like the following three styles of fetishism-fetishism by physical emphases, fetishism by items, fetishism by material. Second, the symbols of voluptuous beauty reflecting his own fetishism could be found in his movie costumes, license areas and given plots. Third, the work describing Jean Paul Gaultier's fetishism as a fetish image with the concept of Fantasy of Missing was evaluated as a successful work to express an internal sexual desire.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제15권2호
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• pp.182-191
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• 2013

This study compares the trend analysis for characteristics of design from 2007 to 2011. According to analyzed results for each year's jean fashion, the 2007's aesthetic feature was a unified and simple design. From 2008 to 2010, the design features were various and rich, and features of 2011 were defined by simplicity with diversity. S/S season's feature were more diverse and balanced than the F/W season. Particularly, washing techniques represent a distinct skill, regardless of season. An analysis of each collection showed that the Paris collection had different and diverse forms; however, it was gorgeous to enjoy the design of a young sense in Milano. London's jean fashion was pale, light, and a dull tone. New York's jean fashion presented a young and practical value to catch other's eyes. There is a need to increase and increase the expectations of customer desire and the high value-added jean fashion industry. New ideas need to be developed for varieties of design and expression of techniques.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제20권4호
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• pp.573-585
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• 1996

This study of counter-culture - the cultural background of the Jean Fashion of which express the consciousness and youthfulness of young - shows the various social, cultural developments and the direction of growth for the Jean industry Until now, the fashion trends flowed from the elite, upper-class minority to the general public : however, in the case of the Jean Fashion, it has spread inversely to the upper-class from the young people who have adopted the life-styles of the lower, middle class, working people. With the emphasis on Jean Fashion's establishment through and within a counter- culture influences, the first chapter explores the counter-culture's background theory and how fashion has metamorphisized within the counter-culture. The second chapter explores the image of the jeans within the society of the youth and the general public. Finally in the fourth chapter, this study divides the images of Jean Fashion within the youth and the general population into classifications of Feminism, Eroticism, Dismantlementation. Thus, 1 came to the conclusion that the above stated theories have had great influence on the Jean Fashion Industry. The conclusion of this study are as follows: 1 Jeans are the representative article of clothing of unisex appeal which is the core characteristic of Feminism. Feminism, which surfaced coincidentally with the emergence of jeans in the 1850s, took charge of expressing the freedoms and the wills of women. 2. Jeans, being the representative article of Eroticism, have firmly entrenched its image in the young people's wardrobe through mass media such as movies, $\mu$ic, and commercials. 3. In the 90s the tendencies of Defacement and Dismantlementation of Jeans developed. In the Dismantlement tendencies of colors, the color blue foretells of the century's coming to an end, and blue also expresses the superiority of spirit and intelligence which transcends materialism.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제44권6호
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• pp.23-34
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• 2006

Graffiti has been recognized as an art form since the influence of free, black culture and Neo-Expressionism in the 1980s, though Graffiti remains the subject of controversy both inside and outside the school Modem Art. Jean Michel Basquiat is the most famous Graffiti artist of the '80. He was regarded as the genius and star of American art, leaving a lot of experimental and creative works during his short, 9-year, creative period. In his works, Basquiat well expressed the isolated and dark shadows in the U.S., the pursuit of self identification, the purpose of expression and the epochally social phenomenon. The purpose of this study is to investigate the application of Jean Michel Basquiat's Graffiti to fashion painting. To achieve this purpose, we present a lot of fashion painting works which apply Jean Michel Basquiat's Graffiti by focusing on autographic experience, racialism, cartoon themes, monely value, and anatomical death in the characteristics of Basquiat's works. Through this process, we can express and apply Basquiat's Graffiti to fashion painting by analogizing the themes and modeling the methods of his works, such as childish and simple features, intentionally wrong spellings and sentences, and symbols of death including skeletons, intestines, bones and teeth. In addition, Basquiat's techniques are examined in this study, including the representational handling of a brush, primitive and strong colors, and maximized shape. This study found that fashion painting can juxtaposes art and fashion by expressing Jean Michel Basquiats' Graffiti.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제27권8호
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• pp.969-980
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• 2003

The aim of the study is to develop a jean jacket and pants of easy-to-move for schoolgirls of 11 years old. The research was carried out as follows; 1. Using a manufacturer's pattern, a jean jacket and pants were made. 2. Based on the survey of 108 schoolgirls, interviews with 4 designers of children's wear, and wearing test, three trial garments were developed. -Certain areas such as knee, elbow, and hip should be altered to have better extensibility. -The weight of the garment would be better to be reduced. 3. Three trial garments were developed using following techniques, which were found in fashion magazines for kids very often. -Alter the location and the shape of the seam line so that the areas mentioned above can adjust the movement of the body better. -Match stretchable material at the areas which require better extensibility. -Use various trimmings to make the garment more size adaptable and easy-to-move. 4. These garments were tested by 26 schoolgirls, and they answered the questionnaires focused on the design preference and easy-to-move. 5. From the results of the wearing test of three trial garments, more effective techniques were selected. Using these techniques, prototype garment was developed. The prototype garment was approved by the wearing test of 26 schoolgirls.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제36권5호
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• pp.489-500
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• 2012

This work surveys the trend and dissolution characteristics in headdress that appear in Jean Paul Gaultier's collection. Along with a related literature review, a total of 903 headdress pieces shown in collections 40 times (excluding the common caps and hats) were analyzed, covering from 2001S/S to 2010 F/W of Jean Paul Gaultier's Haute Couture and Pret-a-Porter. The headdress trend indicated in his collections was divided into such subgroup forms of folklore, usage of natural things, usage of artificial things, religion, retro, scarf, variations in headgear, mask and veil, atypical type and abstract. Such an expression tendency was so unique and mixed characteristic that it was hard to define its form and structure thanks to enlargement and exaggeration, extremity in ornaments, and use of foreign materials, which led to creative dynamics. Gaultier's headdress also reflected the following characteristics: first, expression of difference indicative of time deconstruction; second, uncertainty of meanings via deconstruction; third, text interactivity via deconstruction of gender and material adopted; fourth, decentralization through dissolution of the Orient and the Occident.

• 한국패션뷰티학회지
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.119-128
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• 2008

The surrealism art form comes from the world of unconsciousness. Based on its expression of the world of imaginary, it boldly demonstrates the arrangement and the forms of contradicted objects and the development of collage, montage, and protage techniques in the works which had a big influence on the growth of the modern art. The ideology and the modeling characteristics shown in the surrealism had various expressive forms and meanings in the modern compound expression and it grew out of the former standarlized forms and brought diversity and individuality based on the sensibility of the new avant-garde art form and showed great potential as it presented harmony in the multiple forms of art. The purpose of the research was to analyze the influences that were put on the surrealistic fashion art works and the works of the representative designer, Jean Paul Gotie. The characteristics of Jean Paul Gotie's surrealistic fashion comes from destruction, sexual image, and the mixture of heterogeneous. It is evident that the surrealistic fashion went beyond certain groups of avant-gardists' salvation of the world and were put to practice use, reaching out to the ordinary consumers. This was resulted from the revolutionary movement called, "anti-mode van fashion" led by Gotie. The surrealistic style will be led by various techniques and trends and developed through new characteristics in multiculture merged with various fashion styles.