• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.4
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• pp.452-458
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• 2019

This study provides basic research for developing dress forms of women's wear making. This study compared the average body size of Korean women by investigating the shape, composition and size of 417 dress forms for pattern making, sold at Korean and international online malls. The results showed that Korean brands produced torso-type and torso-crotch-type (94.13%), torso-type was the most dominant type made by Japanese Ki and French St (${\geq}80%$), and all US Al products were whole-body-type. The most common used internal filler of the dress forms was urethane for South Korean companies and paper for Japanese Ki and French St. In most cases, cotton was used for outer materials. Alternatively, linen and rayon were used as outer materials. Al did not indicate the materials used for filler and outer layers. Additionally, the sizing system of dress forms was commonly presented as a Numeric type. In addition to Numeric type, Ki presented body type + usage and Al used character type. When the dress form size for the average bust size of each age group was evaluated, waist measurements were smaller than the corresponding bust measurements. Dress form was presented in the KS interval and was compared with the $mean{\pm}1{\sigma}$ interval of each age group. The majority of the dress forms produced in South Korea were for body shapes in their 20s.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.22 no.6
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• pp.834-843
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• 2020

This study develops 1/2 dress forms for draping. This study investigated the production status of domestic and foreign products in order to model their shape using CLO 3D. In addition, it developed torso-type and torso-crotch-type products that allowed for draping using a 3D printer. This study analyzed shape and size compared to developed ones after referring to the Size Korea 7th Survey data as well as seven domestic and foreign company websites. The results are follows. First, an investigation of the production status of the products for the size of most of the domestic ones (except K-4) indicated that the waist circumference was slimmer than Size Korea. Bust, waist, and hip circumferences ranged from 42.0 cm, 32.0 cm, and 45.0 cm - 49.0 cm, respectively, in Chinese products; 42.0 cm - 43.0 cm, 30.5 cm - 31.5 cm, and 46.0 cm - 46.5 cm in Japanese products; 43.0 cm, 35.0cm, and 46.5 cm in American products (Japanese body shape applied). Second, an avatar was produced on a 3D software with the average size of 20-24year-old women, and its file modified as a dress form for 3D printing with PLA filament to produce dress forms for draping, workable with pins, using quilting cotton and cotton cloth. Third, the comparisons of the form and flattening between the developed dress forms and the selling ones indicated that flattening was bigger in the waist part of the former than the latter. The waist is produced too slim in the existing dress forms; therefore, it is necessary to correct the waist circumference. Unlike existing dress forms, the developed ones were produced in proximity to the average size of 20-24 year-old women in the Size Korea 7th Survey.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.24 no.6
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• pp.744-755
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• 2022

This study sought to verify the shopping values that tourists pursue by purchasing at travel destinations based on tourists' motivation and identify the effects of these values on the types of fashion items preferred by tourists. Furthermore, this study verified the tourist shopping behavior of three Asian countries-Korea, China, and Japan-from a cross-cultural perspective. To obtain a sample that represents tourist shoppers in each country, a survey was conducted on adult men and women in their 20s to 60s, and 986 subjects were collected: 300 Koreans, 385 Chinese, and 301 Japanese. Factor analysis, structural equation modeling, and multigroup SEM were performed on the collected data using SPSS Statistics and AMOS. Based on escaping-seeking theory, tourist intentions were divided into escaping and seeking motivations, and tourist shopping values were divided into functional, emotional, and social. The shopping items were divided into materials and experiential goods to understand the difference between the types preferred by tourists according to the perceived value. In addition, differences in tourist shopping behaviors according to the three nationalities were identified. The findings illustrate that the escaping motive affects emotional and social values, whereas the seeking motive affects all three. Moreover, it was confirmed that functional and emotional values affect preference for material and experiential goods, but social value only affects preference for material goods. For the cross-cultural study, differences in tourist shopping behavior according to nationality were identified.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.16-27
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• 2014

This study investigated the characteristics of and changes in hemp textile production practices at Gurye in Jeollanam-do in modern times. To do this, in this study, both a literature review and fieldwork research were utilized as research methods. The literature review focused on Gurye's hemp data, and the fieldwork research involved two separate trials. Male and Female residents of Gurye who had experience in the area of hemp production from the 1920s to the 1980s participated in this study. The results were as follows. First, regarding hemp fiber cultivation in Gurye, hemp cultivation continued to the 1970s and there were no changes in hemp cultivation practices during the Japanese colonial-era. Second, there have been very important changes in hemp kilns over time. In the 1950s, there were both single-body kilns and separate-body kilns in Gurye. Later, specifically in the 1950s, a new type of kiln using an iron pot appeared, and the most modern kilns were concrete structures. Third, in Gurye, women cooperatively removed hemp husks immediately after stemming, subsequently bleaching the hemp by soaking it in lye or caustic soda. Over time, there have been changes in ash types and in soaking periods. Fourth, loom types changed from the traditional Korean back-strap loom to the treadle loom in the 1930s- to 1940s. Fifth, since the 1970s, the hemp textile output levels of Gurye have been reduced due to the westernization of clothing styles, the inflow of Chinese hemp fiber and government regulations pertaining to hemp cultivation.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.45-65
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• 2014

The importance of the cultural identity of each country is emphasized among the new cultural paradigm of the 21st century. Leading world-wide trends, overseas licensed fashion magazines have expressed characteristics close to the culture and lifestyle of each country at the same time. The goal of this study was focused on finding out the differences and similarities between overseas licensed fashion magazine, or if the content would be compared to the aesthetic characteristics and criteria of the country they were published in. To accomplish this, we extracted the color, material and modifier from the scripts of the Korean and Japanese editions of VOGUE published during S/S in 2012 for comparative analysis of the aspects of color, fabrics and modifier between Japan and Korea. There were common but also unique characteristics, as the issues of VOGUE KOREA and VOGUE JAPAN published during the research period had modifier to fit each season and trend, the emergence of color and fabric. Especially, the kind and frequency of color, fabric and modifier could be considered as expressing their own unique fashion culture. In case of Korea, maximal with colorful and decorative image is especially strong, while in Japan the soft and gentle feminine image was rather strong.

• Asia Marketing Journal
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.57-81
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• 2013

The purpose of this paper is to seek ways to improve the competitiveness of Korea's fashion industry by utilizing the source of competitiveness of Japan's fashion industry, which represents the world's leading countries in terms of fashion, so that Korea can better enter the global fashion market. The study shall first compare the competitiveness of the Japanese and Korean fashion industries by utilizing the generalized double diamond model; second, provide an understanding of what the Japanese fashion industry can offer to Korean fashion industry and companies - that is, understand what the Japanese fashion industry's competitive edge is; and third, study the kind of global competitiveness that Korea's fashion industry must achieve. To adopt a generalized double diamond model to compare the competitiveness of the Korean and Japanese fashion industries, we selected 31 sub-variables to act as determinants of the model. That is, we extracted 31sub-variables by doing research of literature to analyze national competitiveness of the fashion industries. To measure these 31 sub-variables, secondary data was gathered. We collected data related to each sub-variable from various sources of Korea and Japan. And to calculate the competitiveness index, we took three steps with reference to previous studies. We found that status of the fashion industry of the two countries as it stands. That is, Japan is an advanced country of which fashion industry is domestic market-oriented while Korea is a small open economy that mainly focuses on the foreign market. Out of 31 proxy variables, Korea's fashion industry shows higher measurements relating to production and export than Japan, but Japan's fashion industry reports higher measurements than Korea in the fields of R&D, design and brand power, the rate of value added, the efficiency of companies and globalization. In order for Korea's fashion industry to achieve competitiveness in the global market, it should pursue the following development direction. First, it is very difficult for Korea to follow the footsteps of the U.S. and Japanese fashion industries that are able to take advantage of economies of scale, because Korea is smaller than those countries. Therefore, in the case of small economies such as Singapore, strengthening of international activities will practically improve domestic determinants that Korea should improve its domestic diamond by enhancing the current competitiveness of its international diamond. In other words, Korea needs to further endeavor to develop and expand global resources and markets as well as improve its competitiveness in terms of R&D, design and brand power, the rate of value-added, and the efficiency of companies. As the Korean fashion industry shows relatively advanced level of information technology and the fashion education system, it has considerable potential to grow. Korea is expected to have a huge growth potential since it has relatively higher level of information technology, fashion education system and activities than those of Japan in both the domestic diamond and international diamond. In particular, a better environment is laid out before Korea to gain competitiveness in the fashion industry due to the recently growing influence of the Korean Wave that Korea is expected to grow as a leader in the Asian market as well as in the global market.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.5 s.142
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• pp.649-661
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• 2005

The purpose of this study was to analyze the inner meaning and outer from of the uniform from a historical perspective. As a research method, this study investigated the significance of the meaning and farm of the uniform in history with a focus on the classification suggested by a Japanese scholar, Okuhira Sitse, and analyzed them by design elements. In the theoretical study, the uniform was divided into formal, working and collective uniforms according to the purpose of wear. As results, the plasticity of the uniform was analyzed as the concept involving: authority representing the power and influence within the organization as a inner moaning; differentiation from the rest by expressing the culture and ideology within the organization; cohesiveness among the wearers as members of the specific organization and the binding nature in effect; reliable images to customers due to the appropriate form of dress related to the specific business and controlled self expression; and aesthetics characterizing a given era as a form of aesthetic pursuit. The elements of these inner meanings were translated to the outer form of functional practicality and simplified design, which appeared as the simplified' suit' in a female uniform in workplaces.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.2
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• pp.298-306
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• 2005

The Main objective of this study was to investigate the relationship between lifestyle and clothing buying behavior of college female students in Japan. A questionnaire was developed to measure clothing urchasing motives, fashion information sources, evaluation criteria of clothing, store attribute and lifestyle, The questionnaire was administered to 131 female college students in Tokyo of Japan. the data was analyzed using percentage, frequency, mean, factor analysis, Cluster Analysis and ANOVA, Duncan Multiple Range test. The results of the study were as follows : 1. The female college students were classified into fourth subdivisions by the cluster analysis; rational group, economic group, progressive group, fashion-oriented group. 2. The clothing purchasing motives o consumers were significantly different according to lifestyle subdivision in social, personal. 3. In the case of fshion information sources, significant differences were found according to lifestyle subdivision in mass media information, information by marketer, information by consumer. 4. The evaluation criteria of clothing were significantly different depending on lifestyle subdivision in esthetic, quality and management, external criterion. 5. The store attribute were significantly different depending on lifestyle subdivision in convenience, service and atmosphere of store.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.2
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• pp.209-219
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• 2019

This study analyzed and compared wearer mobility for different types of clothing that also included the potential to develop firefighter station uniforms using range of motion (ROM) and electromyography (EMG). This study focused on a comparison of wearer mobility affected by different materials and shapes of the station uniforms worn under firefighter turnout gear. Japanese standard uniform (UNI), stretch-wear (ST), and compression-wear (CP) were used as station uniforms for the experiment. This study analyzed wearer movements and quantified ROM and EMG. In addition, the subjective evaluation of wearer mobility and comfort were assessed for comparisons. Nine healthy male students participated in the experiment. Wearer mobility was analyzed using ROM and EMG data obtained by measuring five motions; in addition, subjective evaluations were also obtained. As compared with the standard station uniform, ROM increased 6.8 % and 7.2 % due to stretch-wear and compression-wear. The benefits of wearing stretch material or compression material to improve muscle performance (such as reduced percent of maximum voluntary contraction) were not proven. Differences between materials and designs influenced subjective wearer comfort. In particular, the wearing of compression materials was shown best in terms of wearer comfort that may also allow greater wearer mobility.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.29-37
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• 2017

Due to the pursuit of individuality by modern consumers, the day has come when it is hard for design to be sustained solely by external beauty. Accordingly, products with the psychological value and brand stories are appearing, so that products that reinterpret traditional crafts are now being appreciated for their merits. Handmade goods defined as new luxury goods or products of high-quality craftsmanship are being used to enhance the consumer's individual image, and has created an unprecedented consumer stratum structure. Japan is one of the countries that actively applies traditional crafts to contemporary design and this study aims to investigate cases that are being reinterpreted in modern fashion in the theme of Boro, which is not as well known among Japanese traditional crafts. The purpose of this study is to offer basic data for designers by investigating the cases of the reinterpretation of traditional crafts. In addition, in reinterpreting traditional crafts into other fields, it is regarded as a meaningful way to contribute to a variety of other ideas. As the research method, first, the definition and kind of Boro were investigated utilizing the related literature information about the traditional fabric of Boro, which is the starting point and basis of the research. Second, Japanese aesthetic sense defined in the previous research was classified and the relationship of the anti-decorative aesthetic sense and Boro investigated. Third, after classifying the reinterpretation cases of Boro that have appeared in four major fashion collections and designer brands from 2011 to 2016 by the selected aesthetic sense, its characteristics were investigated. The search for examples of the reinterpretation of Boro uses the results of the keyword search of Boro and Boro Fashion via the internet search engine Google from April 2016 to December 2016. In addition, the search results were selected on the basis of whether the designer specified borrowing from Boro or whether Boro on the collection order was included or not. In addition to introducing an unknown fabric craft, this study also raises the methodological problems of the reinterpretation of traditional crafts. Products containing psychological value are expected to come into the spotlight in the upcoming consumer market. Therefore, as a follow-up study, it is suggested to research examples in which various crafts are being applied as products before one knows, how this creates new originality, and the limitations involved in this.