• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제3권4호
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• pp.337-343
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• 2001

This study was purposed to see how men's hair styles of Japan had changed throughout history and results of the study was as follows. There are such evidences as topknots in its primitive styles and wooden combs that several hair styles were tried already in the primitive Jomon Period. In the Yayoi period, bare topknot style without crowns and Mizura style in which hair drop down both ears were popular. In the period of ancient burial mounds, Mizura style was dominative style and varied its form and shape according to classes and status. In the Aska and Nara era, topknot-in-the-crown style in which hair bound in one as in continental style and put in crown or hood, which style was influenced by the Sui and the Tang periods of China. Since the Heian period, topknot-in-the-Ebosi style, binding style, and Karawa style as well as topknot-in-the-crown style came in sight and Sakayaki style became popular in the Kamakura and Muromachi periods. In the Momoyama period, Chasenmage style and Ichomage style were spread widely. In the early Edo era, Wakashumage style and Yaromage style as well as Ichomage style were preferred. In the middle of Edo era in which form and shape of topknot was more distinct symbol of class, status and job than in any other period, Tachmach style under the influence of the Punkin and Honda modes. Sonno style was popular in the late Edo era. There was a drastic disappearance of topknot style by the hair-cutting order during the Meiji Restoration period and civilized hair style of the Jankiri style, a kind of dishevelled hair style without making a topknot was in fashion and continued to the present.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제8권3호
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• pp.275-285
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• 2006

With these excavated clothes discussed above, the clothing style before and after the Chosun-Japan War from 1592 to 1597 can be summarized as follows. 1) Shroud was a clothes newly made for funeral or usually worn by the deceased. Shroud was mostly a unlined clothes whose adjustment was made in such way its left part was on top of its right one. Yeomeui, a clothes used to wrap up the body of the deceased or fill between the body and the coffin, was usually lined or quilted. Suryeeui was a suit sent by close relatives of the deceased or granted by the court. Mostly padded with cotton or quilted, suryeeui was used only for yeomeui. 2) The term of ching was used to count units of po and suits of trousers and jeogori during dressing the deceased for burial. If trousers and jeogori were not joined into a suit, they were not counted as ching. 3) Aekjueumpo, bangryeongsangeui, three-forked trousers and haengjeon for women were all clothes worn around the war. All these clothes were not worn after the war. 4) Several types of po which were discovered in Daejeon included danryeong, simeui, nansam, jikryeong, cheolik, aekjuempo, changeui and jungchimak for men and jangeui for women. Often, jikryeong, cheolrik, aekjueumpo and bangryeongsangeui were used before the war and changeui and jungchimak since then. 5) The git of jeogori had the style of mokpan git before the war, which was changed into that of dangko git through making the rectangular ege of mokpan git rounded in the 17th century. And jeogori became entirely small sized and the baerae line of sleeve became oblique. 6) In funeral rites of Daejon, simeui and nansam both of which were symbols of Confucian scholars, instead of official uniforms, were used as funeral garments. This suggests that funeral rites of Daejeon considerably reflected academic traditions of the Giho school meaning groups of scholars representing the region.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제22권4호
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• pp.619-631
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• 2014

This study proposes an educational direction to be followed by the clothing departments of Korea's specialized high schools in order to help achieve high levels of job placements and to strengthen their students' competitiveness. A comparison was made of the curricula in Korea's specialized high schools and in several fashion schools in other countries including the United States, Italy, France, Taiwan, and Japan. To this end, publicly available educational records were retrieved from domestic school documentation, vocational high school portals, and domestic/overseas school web sites, and were then reviewed. The archival data extracted from these sources shows that the curricula of the three chosen domestic schools uniformly focus on foundational courses such as general computer skills, general design, accounting principles, design principles, and drawing, as well as practical courses such as the design of western clothing, fashion design, fashion CAD, management of clothing material, design of Korean clothing, and knitting. Unlike these standardized courses, it was found that overseas fashion schools provide a more technically-advanced and design-focused education based on the interests of the individual student. Moreover, their education system nurtures the students' creativity through adequate field experience and history/language education. The findings of this study suggest that Korean specialized high schools should find a way to accommodate their students' interests and to provide them with personalized fashion education by adopting a more flexible curriculum. An educational line that considers the individual student's aptitudes and career path will help foster creativity and novel ideas, which, in turn, will contribute to the development of the fashion industry.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제25권6호
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• pp.773-786
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• 2017

The current study aims to analyze the process of fabric production planning in Dongdaemun Market, which is a successful model case industrial integration in South Korea. We followed the changes in perception among fabric experts, regarding their recognition of fashion trends, and the following planning and process of fabric production. We used the purpose sampling method to select participants for interview in the Dongdaemun Market, then we carried out one-to-one interviews. Our analysis reveals 4 points of importance. First, the fabric planning stage either employed the trend book swatch, or simply reused the model fabrics already available. Even though the experts felt the need to accept the latest fashion trends, very few considered the trends as positive influences in fabric planning. Whereas trend was a key element in identifying the flow of the fashion industry, there were obstacles in carrying out the study. Second, experts frequently participated in domestic fabric seminars, but not in textile exhibitions. Third, domestic and overseas market research has been performed typically at department stores, and typically at Japan. Fourth, the influx of Chinese fabrics has both positive and negative influences, such as low price, and low reliability. In conclusion, experts were less amenable to accepting the latest fashion trends. pre-requisites in real life to meet the use of the current trend of each company. More studies on the Dongdaemun Market from perspectives of practitioners are warranted.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제5권4호
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• pp.158-175
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was to understand and improve the clothing habits and the apparel industry of North Korea in preparation for the reunification of South and North Korea. For this study, literary data, reports, periodicals, interviews and internet data of the two Koreas were reviewed. North Korean clothing habits used to be monotonous and uniform but nowadays people's clothes have become somewhat brighter in color and more diverse in design than before. In particular, liberal and individual dressing habits appeared among the privileged classes. When taking part in national events, women have to wear the traditional Korean costume, Hanbok, while men wear business suits for formal wear. In general, men don't wear Hanbok. Students have to be in uniforms but blue jeans, T-shirts with English logos were popular among them reflecting their sensitivity and openness towards western cultures. The brides usually wear pink Hanboks and the bridegrooms wear black business suits for their wedding. North Koreans also wear Hanbok on national holidays like South Koreans. Clothing is the most important item in the trade of process commission between North and South Korea. Trading items are mid to low end men's clothing for the most part due to less emphasis on fashion in the North. The processing is indirect trade and composed of sample making and contracting, sending out materials and production, carrying in goods and setting accounts. To activate South-North trade, establishment of infrastructure, stabilization of shipping, reducing high costs of distribution, building direct communication system by setting up office in a neutral zone and simplifying procedures in applying for the South and North Korea Economic Cooperation Fund. On the other hand, clothing and textiles education is carried on at art colleges, light industries colleges and commercial colleges in Pyongyang. Clothing institutes which study Hanbok and Western clothes, are installed in each city and province. Graduates who majored in clothing and textiles are posted in institutes or apparel factories. Their job is designing, patternmaking and sewing for their customers. Most of them are women and in good state of economic conditions. The North Korean clothing industry has been the core national industry that has developed based on overseas demand form the mid 1980s. The standard is that of South Korea in the early 1980s. In 1999, trade of North Korean textile products with trade counterparts such as Japan and China was $1.3 million in exports and $1.27 in imports. Of this amount the export takes up 25.4% of the total exports in North Korea. However, fundamentally even in sectors that are irrelevant to politics such as the fashion clothing industry, trust between the South and North should be a prerequisite. Only through this can exchange between North and South and economic cooperation contribute towards the reunification.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제21권1호
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• pp.59-72
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• 2019

The purpose of this study is to analyze the present condition of the Korean footwear industry, and its competitiveness through related precedent research. Research was done by analyzing data from the Korean Statistical Information Service, the Korea International Trade Association and advanced research about the footwear industry. Footwear markets all over the world are growing continuously. The main consumers are China, America and India. World footwear trade is showing a growth trend on the basis of cost and amount. The main exporting countries are China, Vietnam and Italy, while main importing countries are America, Germany and France. The domestic market and the export market of footwear in Korea are decreasing. The scale of exporting footwear is gradually decreasing, however the scale of importing footwear is increasing. Korea exports footwear to China, Vietnam and Japan and imports them from China, Vietnam and Indonesia. Studies concening the footwear industry implied that the competitiveness of Korea has been weakened both in the domestic and the export markets. To enhance the competitiveness of Korean footwear corporations, long-term support at the national level is needed. Especially, cultivating competitive experts is crucial to improve the competitiveness of designs and the quality of products. Furthermore, branding strategies using the Korean wave, Korean culture and the national image of Korea, as well as platform strategies to communicate with consumers globally and selling high-quality products are significant.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제19권3호
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• pp.344-352
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• 2017

This study investigated the formability and appearance performance of 20 women's worsted fabrics. For this purpose, 10 foreign fabrics (9 Italian + 1 Japan fabrics) were prepared and 10 domestic worsted fabrics for women were made in Cheil woolen textile company for comparing with foreign fabrics. The mechanical properties of the 20 fabrics were measured using KES-FB and FAST systems; subsequently, fabric formability (F) and total appearance value (TAV) were calculated and compared with a virtual 3-D simulation silhouette by i-designer CAD system. The fabric formability of the domestic fabrics, calculated by KES-FB system, was lower than foreign fabrics, which was assumed to be caused by the stiff tactile property. The result was similar to that of the FAST system. Good wearing performance of the foreign worsted fabric was assumed to be caused by high extensibility and the compressibility of the fabrics. The TAV's of the domestic fabrics were also lower than foreign fabrics. Both the correlation between TAV and formability by the KESFB system and the correlation between TAV and formability by FAST system showed a good correlation coefficient. Fabric formability between KES-FB and FAST systems also showed a good correlation. The 3-D simulation silhouette of the foreign fabric by i-designer CAD system appeared superior to the domestic one, and assumed to be attributed to the low extensibility of the weft direction, stiff bending and high shear properties of the fabric.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제9권5호
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• pp.486-492
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to investigate the characteristics of the men's costumes of the ruling class of the Heian period by studying the costumes demonstrated in the ${\ll}$Won-si-mul-eo-heo-gwon${\gg}$, a picture album of the Heian period. The findings of this study are as follows. The costumes shown in the ${\ll}$Won-si-mul-eo-heo-gwon${\gg}$, can be classified into two types. One of the types is the costumes that were newly made in the Heian period such as Jik-eui, Su-eui, Ha-seub, Sok-dae-jang-sok. The other type, period including Omoja, Ji-gwan, Pyo-go is the costumes that were made by modifying the costumes of the previous. The costumes of the Heian period were evolved into a new type of outfit by changing the way of wearing them, their form, and their color. The costumes became various in types, became bigger in form, and used various colors. As a result, the costumes of the Heian period were developed into more colorful and fancier compared to those of the previous period. The costumes of the Heian period can be interpreted as japanized-embracing and japanizing the culture of the continent-costumes of the previous period rather than as simply copying the costumes of the continent. The driving force of this phenomenon can be analyzed as the effect of japanization that was widespread in the culture in general of the Heian period. This japanization made it possible to create peculiar and genuine costumes of the Heian period.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제8권3호
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• pp.269-274
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to examine the costumes and trading goods of the Korean envoys in 1811. The findings of the study are as follows: The Korean envoys, as shown in literature, were dressed up three different types of costumes: Pyongbok, Gongbok, Jobok. They put on different kinds of clothes depending on the purpose of the events such as for ceremonial purpose or for traveling purpose. For traveling purpose, the envoys wore Pyongbok like Waryonggwan and Hakchangeui, which were commonly used as Pyeonbok in those times of Chosun era. For ceremonial purpose, they chose to wear Danryeong, Gongbok, Geumgwanjobok in this order following the order of the importance of the ceremony. The design of Jobok and Gongbok of Jeongsa and Busa were different from that of the early Chosun era. This difference in the Jobok and Gongbok demonstrates that Gwanbok has been transformed with the change in the general Po system in the late Chosun era. When the costumes of Korean envoys in 1811 were compared to those in 1711, there were similarities in terms of the design of Jobok and Gongbok, which indicated that little had changed for the period of 100 years. The most popular exchanged Byeolpok of Chosun was articles of clothing such as Daeyuja, Daedanja, Baekjeopo, Sangjeopo, and Baekmyeonju, while that of Japan was mostly objects of craftwork and a small amount of Po. The fact that cloth was one of the main items from the early Chosun era to the early 19C shows the highly developed clothing culture of Chosun era.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제34권9호
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• pp.1546-1557
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• 2010

This study analyzes the status of foreign direct investment in Korean textiles and fashion firms and investigates the factors determining their performance. A total of 1,251 cases (including 1,116 manufacturers and 135 of distributors from the 2009/2010 Korean Overseas Business Directory published by KOTRA) were used. The results of this study are as follow: 1) In the case of manufacturers, China was the most heavily invested in country, and the Asian region that included China, Vietnam, Indonesia and Bangladesh consisted of 80% total investment. In cases of distributors, China was also the first ranking country and other countries, that included Vietnam, United States, and Japan are major ones. 2) In terms of the foreign entry mode, wholly-owned subsidiaries represented 90% of total cases. As the index of the degree of localization, the ratio of local employees was very high. 3) Different countries were utilized by year, type of business, and area of process. In manufacturers, Indonesia, China, and Vietnam were the most heavily utilized countries in the 1980s, 1990s, and 2000s, respectively. For distributors, China was the major market ill the 1980s and 1990s but Vietnam has emerged as the biggest market in the 2000s. In terms of area of process, China was for manufacturing fibers and fabrics, Vietnam was for most items, Indonesia was for assembly, knit, accessories, and Bangladesh was for embroidery and accessories. 4) The determining factors of the age of foreign business as the proxy index and performance of foreign business entry, were different by the type of business. For manufacturers, four factors including the dollar amount of investment, number of local employees, the mode of foreign direct investment, and entry to China were significant. On the other hand, only two factors including the dollar amount of investment and entry (other than China) were significant distributors.