• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.1-15
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• 2017

The aim of this study is to plan a design that satisfies consumer needs by forecasting future properties following changes of gauge in basic Jacquard structure and to provide helpful data for a variety of knit-wear development. Four basic Jacquard knit samples (Normal Jacquard, Bird's eye Jacquard, Floating Jacquard, Tubular Jacquard) were selected and projected by using three types of gauges (7G, 12G, 14G) with an SES-122S type Computer Knitting machine of Shimaseiki MFG. Twelve different types of samples with Jacquards and gauges were tested on a flat table by measuring the course and wale in a 1cm area to calculate the gauge of samples. The mechanical properties of 12 types of Jacquard samples were measured using KES-FB (Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabric, Kata Tech Co. Ltd). As the result of comparing the number of patterns, courses and wales depending on the change of gauge of the basic Jacquard structure, it was observed that the number of patterns per specific length, course and wale has increased from 7G to 14G, a high-gauge. According to objective research regarding Jacquard structure, 7G Tubular Jacquard, which is low gauge, seems to be suitable for masculine design as it is heavy and thick, and has rigid and rough texture due to a high level of flexural strength and shear property. 14G Floating Jacquard, which is high gauge, seems to be suitable for feminine, silhouette design as it is light, thin, soft, flexible and has high drape. The result of this study provides a theoretical foundation for knit-wear development considering basic Jacquard structure and gauge-specific properties. This study can be used to provided directions for the development of knit industry.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.93-103
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• 2010

The results of comparison and analysis of dynamical features according to Jacquard structure are as follows. Regarding elongation(E) value in tensile property, the value in the direction of course was found to be larger in all Jacquard structure, except floating Jacquard, than the direction of wale. It could be found that, as to bending strength(B) in Bending Property, the value of bending strength in the direction of course smaller in all the textile(structure) except floating than the direction of wale, so that the ability of curve formation is excellent. And in case of floating Jacquard, it showed the smallest value in the direction of course and wale, so that it was interpreted as Jacquard having a soft feel. Blister Jacquard showed the highest value in both directions of course and wale, so that it was evaluated as Jacquard having the hardest touch. With regard to shearing character(G) and shearing hysteresis(2HG) in Shearing Property, Jacquard indicated the lowest value, so it was evaluated as the textile(structure) having high drape the transformation of whose fabric is easy. In addition, normal Jacquard, transfer Jacquard, blister Jacquard showed a high value, so that it could be known they are Jacquards having stiff touch. The study implies that normal Jacquard, bird's eye Jacquard, etc., which well stretch in the direction of a course like tubular Jacquard course, is better to make the margin a little shorter than the basic margin, and Jacquard that well stretches in the direction of wale like ladder's back Jacquard and floating Jacquard is better to make the margin longer and the length shorter than the basic margin.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.77-90
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• 2015

This study is to designed to provide foundation for knit design which can apply the thickness and flexibility of jacquard knit by analyzing and comparing mechanical properties of 7 types of jacquard (normal jacquard, bird's eye jacquard, floating jacquard, tubular jacquard, ladder's back jacquard, blister jacquard, transfer jacquard) widely used in knit design to achieve the results. The sample was projected by using 7 gauge and SES-122S type computer knitting machine house tooth pattern with two colors were applied to 7 types of jacquard using Acrylic/Wool(30%/70%) $2/50.5^{\prime}s{\times}4ply\;yarn$ by Shimaseiki MFG., Ltd computer knitting machine. The mechanical properties of 7 types of jacquard samples were measured using KES-FB (Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabric, Kata Tech Co. Ltd). HV(Hand Value) and THV (Total Hand Value) were calculated by using the formula of KN-402-KT and KN-301-WINTER respectively. The measurements were evaluated by 0-to-5 rating scale. As result, the floating jacquard was found to have excellent drape, making it suitable for express feminine silhouette with its most flexible and smooth touch. On the other hand, bird's eye jacquard is adequate for a suit jacket and coat regarding its excellent volume and flexibility. Blister jacquard and tubular jacquard are thick, heavy and stiff knit and both are suitable for simple box-style design. Ladder's back jacquard, however, is more appropriate for expressing the design of feminine charm and voluminous design. Based on the result of this study, it is supposed to provide basic information for development of knit industry regarding jacquard knit by designing the creative knit wear with high production efficiency.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.8
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• pp.968-981
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• 2011

This study examines the effect of the structure of Intarsia and Jacquard knit on mechanical properties of knit fabrics to suggest data for knit design. Intarsia and 7 types of Color Jacquard (Floating Jacquard, Normal Jacquard, Bird's eye Jacquard, Tubular Jacquard, Ladder's back Jacquard, Blister Jacquard, and Transfer Jacquard) were used. The samples with a gauge of 14 were knitted using 100% wool 2/48's yarn by Shima Seiki SIG computer knitting machine. The Objective Hand was measured by KES-FB system and HV and THV were calculated by the formula of KN-402-KT and KN-301-winter respectively. The results showed that Intarsia and Floating Jacquard are thin, flexible and light, Bird's eye Jacquard is slick, flat and slim, Tubular Jacquard is stiff and undrapable, Ladder's back Jacquard is difficult in shearing deformation and relatively bulky, Blister Jacquard is thickest and transfer jacquard is uneven in surface contour. The selection of proper structure is important for the knit apparel production since the thickness and weight of knit determine the amount of yarn needed and consequently the production cost. The hands of Ladder's back Jacquard and Tubular Jacquard are superior to those of other structures. Intarsia and Floating Jacquard which are thin, light and flexible seem to be good structures for designs showing a body silhouette whereas, Bird's eye Jacquard, Tubular Jacquard and Blister Jacquard (which are thick, heavy, and stiff) are suitable for a boxy silhouette.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.488-495
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to experiment and develop seamless-effect knitwear design using tubular-jacquard structure in order to find a new method of manufacturing knitwear and to suggest a new design. The study is based on changing the point of view about using the practical technique like the tubular jacquard which has been used mainly for expressing patterns. The result of experimenting this, a piece of fabric is able to being worn as a piece of garment. As for using circular structure of tubular jacquard, a body can be fitted into the big space between front and back part of fabric and seams can be made of small patterns of jacquard fabric. The silhouette, the drape and the result of the garment of this experiment are different from the ordinary outfit. Therefore, the study to find a new way of design and manufacturing should go on to suggest a different form and method.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.33-42
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to research the development of jacquard fabrics by the Bi-Dan patterns of Dan-Chung as one of the traditional korean symbols. For performing this design study, it designed a surface design of the geometric images in Bi-Dan patterns using by EAT Jacquard Textile CAD system and simulated to fabrics for the clothing & bags. To consider the modern image of Bi-Dan patterns in the Dan-Chung motives, the theoretical background was made on the basic elements, compositions and symbolic meanings of Dan-Chung patterns. To merchandise the fashion items and see the visual image, these jacquard fabric simulations was processed by two-dimension modeling through YoungWoo CNI CAD. The applied weave structure was based on a single layer of 5 or 10 points-satin and a double layer of 8 points-satin. Among the fabric simulations of Bi-Dan patterns, the six simulated fabrics were woven into the real jacquard fabrics under the electronic Stabuli jacquard loom in $120{\sim}130$ picks per inch and 171 ends per inch. These developed jacquard fabrics of Bi-Dan patterns were appeared a contemporary yet ethnic feeling so that they could make use of the unique korean cultural products by the further commercialization.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.23-32
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• 2005

This study attempts to address the development processing of yarn-dyeing jacquard design by using jacquard textile design professional CAD system to create high valued worth products. To carry out this purpose, two kinds of necktie samples were designed and each of them was different in three types of weaving method. The results are as follows; All over type is appropriate when the motive's size is small. And the work can be finished within short time and design can be illustrated by basic jacquard system. However, one point type can represent rather big and audacious motive but it needs lots of working hours and jacquard system. Though the motives are identical, showed many changes in cubicle representation according to weaving methods and the structure. To express simple and modest design, single fabric woven is suitable and in the need of colorful and technical design, expressing by double weft cloths and triple weft cloths rather than single fabric woven are better to give creativity and colorfulness. For the production of jacquard design, cad system using ability is important but the understanding and study of the whole process of weaving development should be made.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.104-111
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• 2019

This study was developed using the DTP (digital textile printing) jacquard fabrics with a three-dimensional pattern for bag and evaluated the preference and emotional structure. The following conclusions were obtained. Three-dimensional patterns of 12 species using the illustrator program, including six kinds of designs based on the text and six kinds of character types based on the geometry of the basic design was developed. As a result of evaluating the preference of the three-dimensional pattern jacquard fabric, the most preferred fabric was a three-dimensional patterned jacquard fabric with a motif of the Korean consonant "ㅅ". The results of analyzing the emotional dimension of the three-dimensional pattern jacquard fabric, eight factors including simple image, feminine image, exotic image, graphic image, sporty image, masculine image, dynamic image and stereoscopic image were derived. Between emotional factors and preferences correlation analysis showed the stronger the simple image, the feminine image, and the sporty image, the more preferable. It suggested the possibility of a morphological and new fabric for bag, textile design motifs by using Hangul consonants attempt to limit the flatness of the existing geometric form patterns that can be applied to three-dimensional bag whether swirly patterns overcome.

• 제어로봇시스템학회:학술대회논문집
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• 2002.10a
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• pp.118.3-118
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• 2002

$\textbullet$ Introduction $\textbullet$ The Structure and Operation of an Electronic Jacquard $\textbullet$ Design of Real-Time Error Detection System $\textbullet$ The System Realization and Verification $\textbullet$ Conclusion

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.4
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• pp.522-537
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• 2021

The purpose of this study is to develop a knitwear design with the potential for practical use through a combination of science and design by examining the concept and formative characteristics of fractal geometry and applying them to the development of 3D virtual clothing knitwear design. This study produced five main conclusions. First, the sub-concepts of "Repeatability," "Scale variability," and "complexity," which are based on self-similarity, appear together with simple regularity in the fractal formative characteristics shown in fashion design. Second, fashion fields apply fractal geometry in three-dimensional surface textures and optical textile patterns as a method of expression. Third, it was confirmed that various expressions can be created with fractal patterns by using the SDS-ONE APEX 3-4 design system; moreover, fractal patterns are a suitable design source for the development of Jacquard knitwear patterns. Fourth, in the development of knitted jacquard fractal patterns, by arranging the patterns in perspective, the effect of emphasizing or reducing the human body by optical illusion was shown. Fifth, a knit Jacquard structure with a pattern that exhibits fractal modeling characteristics and applying it to a 3D virtual clothing sample design reduces the time required for sample production while expanding the knit design's expression area and reducing costs. Thus, the clothing sample confirmed the effectiveness of practical knitwear design development.