• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.141-148
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• 2007

As Backje(B.C. 18-A.D. 600) is the whole area of Chungcheong, Jeonra, Kangwon and Gyeongsang provinces, the son of the founder of Goguryeo, King Onjoe, making the castle Wu'irae capital of the nation, founded Backje. The capital was transferred to Hansung by B.C. 5 and then to Gongju by A.D. 475. Backje governed the east of China and the northeastern coast. Due to the effect of Chinese culture there are remarkably Chinese cultural elements in dress and its ornament of Baekje. Therefore on the side of cultural part, the noble culture was formed more polished than that of Goguryeo, which affected the culture of dress and ornament. And also there were class differentiation noticeably. Baekje created splendid culture and affected the culture development of Shinra and Japan. The motive of culture creation could be the top of three countries in the foreign trade because there were geographically the widest vast plain and coastline which stretches out from north to south. Although there haven't been many materials about the cultural heritage and records more than other countries, through the modern visual point its design is fresh and more elegant those of other countries. But the fact is that there are few materials related to Baekje. What is worse, there rarely remains all original form and most of them are broken and lost. According1y, we cannot understand not only an original form of Baekje culture and but also the meaning included in it. It goes without saying that there are few materials about the clothes and fabrics. As understanding the culture of Baekje itself is insufficient, a culture enterprise utilizing it - to improve both the added value and economical achievement while combining the latest culture resources with other fields - hasn't been successful. In this study, the purpose is to improve economic power through commercialization and industrialization of the sources of the culture of Baekje. By reanalyzing a form and an image of Baekje relics, it is designed with new motif and modem preference on the condition of our peculiar cultural heritage. And while using this motif with Jacquard pattern, we made it possible to be applied to real life such as interior trinkets, etc.

• Archives of design research
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.279-292
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• 2001

The network drafting is introduced by american weaver Alice schlein, that is not a new weave, but a way of exploring old structures and driving them a new design. It was evident that larger scale pattern design produced on computer dobby-that is a loom without a jacquard mechanism, draw harness, or other extra patterning devices. Therefore, this study explored that developing and new weave design through the processing of network drafting In give a guide based on it In this process, the results of this study were as follow. A network is a collection of legal threading position that is constructed from a building block, called an "initial" which is the smallest identifiable unit of the threading. The process of network drafting produces large-scale designs without the chunky look of block weaves in addition In infinite potential variation on a singles threading through changes in tie-ups and dobby peg plan. It can get various new drafting through using of isolated, connected, disconnected pattern line.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.110-121
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• 2011

As car seat is the closest part between driver and rider, the interest of the security and comfort of the seat is increasing. This research discovered the best condition for dyeing and finishing to produce a fabric for car seat and also developed the design of fabrication to give the feeling from such a finishing. The best condition of coating finishing solution is aqueous PU 65%, dye resist reagent 20%, water 12%, thicker 3%, and knife thickness 2mm, tenter temperature $170^{\circ}C$, tenter speed 35yard/min, viscosity 12,000cps and stirring time 100kg * 30min. According to the processing time of knife coating upon stirring the change of resin and the uneven of coating quantity was shown. This problems will be solved by means of automatic temperature control apparatus for resin and sealing device through a coming research.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.25 no.4
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• pp.133-145
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• 2023

Competition is intensifying as the golfwear market grows and expands rapidly due to the influx of MZ generation golfers, so it is necessary to plan knit golfwear products suitable to consumer needs The purpose of this study is to contribute to product planning by analyzing knit design factors according to the brand image of golfwear. First, the top five sales brands surveyed by Apparel News were selected. The selected brands were G-Fore, PXG, Malbon Golf, Titleist, and Mark & Lona. Knit products sold by the selected golfwear brands were investigated based on design factors, such as image, item, stich, yarn, color, and pattern to analyze knit design factors according to brand image. G-Fore's modern classical image was influenced by pullovers, vest items, 100% wool, color contrast, intasha stich, and monotone colors. PXG's sporty modern image was due to a mixture of rayon and polyester in jumper items, while Malbon Golf's American casual image applied character patterns and intasha knitwear. Line points, plain knitwear, and monotone colors were analyzed as design factors for Titleist's modern minimal image, while Mark & Lona's classic casual was analyzed as knit design factors, such as check patterns and jacquard knitwear. Differences in knit design factors according to brand image can be identified.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.117-132
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• 2021

As the golfwear market grows rapidly and expands due to the influx of MZ generation golfers, competition among brands is intensifying, so it is necessary to plan knit golf wear products that are suitable for the consumer needs. The purpose of this study is to contribute to product planning by analyzing the design characteristics of women's knitted golfwear products among golfwear brands. First, the top 10 brands, as selected by Golf Magazine, were used for analysis. The selected brands include PXG, Titleist Apparel, Wide Angle, Pearlygates, Footjoy Golf, Castelbajac, Fantom, Ping, Le Coq Golf, and PGA Tour & LPGA. 692 women's cross-knit knitwear products were investigated based on design elements, such as flat tissue, gauge, color, pattern, image, and items. The characteristics of women's knitted golfwear showed a high utilizations of Jacquard and high gauge Intarsiafor pattern expression and a low variety of deformed stich. The proportion of achromatic colors is large, and many brands use point colors based on black and white. Brand identity is important, and brand letters, Monograms are frequently used, and the proportion of sportive and modern image in the products is high. With the increase of MZ generation golfers, the preferred design direction will change and gradually deepen.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.484-498
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to explore the applicability of QFD to product development of clothes by empirically applying it to development of a specific clothes, middle and elderly women’s formal knitwear. The voices of customers(VOCs) for formal knitwear was collected through in-depth interviews with 25 customers, shop masters, and designers. Also, questionnaires of which respondents were 230 customers were used to rank the importance of the items of VOC. A QFD team of 10 knitwear experts implemented the task of translating VOCs into design attributes and measuring the values of the relationships between VOCs and design attributes. Importance ranking of the items of design attributes was obtained based on Lyman's method. The results of this study were as follows. First, the customer requirements for formal knitwear were classified into five dimensions, that is, symbolism, aesthetic, fitness, usefulness, and maintenance. Second, the descending order of the necessity of improving the quality was maintenance, aesthetic, fitness, usefulness, and symbolism. Third, three-staged design attributes were obtained as a result of translating of VOCs into design attributes. Lastly, the descending order of the importance of design attributes was "sorts of yarn", "sorts of color jacquard", "color", "tone", "ease", etc.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.13-26
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to analyze the preference of design and body shape for korean baby-boom generation women. For this study, in-depth interviews were carried out to 11 women who were born in 1955~1963. They are called korean baby-boom generation. The results were as follows; 1) Korean baby-boom generation women care to their body shape, and they make much of the balance of body, not just looking slim. 2) Korean baby-boom generation women become more interested in their clothing, and they want to look with casual image than elegant image before. But overweight women preferred elegant image. 3) Korean baby-boom generation women prefer mix-match style for everyday clothes, but they prefer suit-set for formal wear. 4) When Korean baby-boom generation women choose of jacket or coat color, they consider more of their body-shape than season color. 5) Korean baby-boom generation women prefer plain style and jacquard with metal yarn. 6) Korean baby-boom generation women prefer out-door cloth fabric, at special time, they choose pure wool and pure silk. At ordinary time, they like more comfortable fabric like cotton mixed spandex or wool mixed spandex blends.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.6
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• pp.1-9
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• 2003

This study has as its primary aims the following: to create a fashion design based on the aesthetic value of Art Nouveau which flourished from the end of 19 century to the beginning of 20 century. In this thesis, two themes, Rose Aroma and Iris Memory are selected among the flower patterns and are used to create two works. First, the Rose Aroma theme is for an evening dress of S-curve style made with Silk Jacquard based on rose image of Art Nouveau. For decoration, artificial rose and its stem, and leaves are used to highlight hip line. By such design associated with a flower garden, cubic effects are expressed as a design point. Second, the Iris Memory theme is for a wedding dress made with tulle based on Iris image of Art Nouveau. This dress has a special point in its top bra, underwear used like an outer garment, involving spangle, beads, pearl, and cubic in order to enhance its visual effect. These works are significant in presenting the development possibilities of various fashion designs by introducing Art Nouveau style into diverse modern fashions.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.4 no.4
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• pp.347-357
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• 2002

In 1536, two Piedmontese merchants set up workshops in Lyons, and Henri IV encourged further development later in the 16th century. The development of Lyons as a centre of the silk weaving industry was helped by the perfection of drawloom weaving technique there in 1605 by Claude Dangon. In the 17th century, the French silk industry could finally compete with the dominance of the Italian silk trade. The French silk industry was promoted in the mid-17th century under Louis XIV's minister Colbert. In 1667, he published an ordinance creating La Grande Fabrique, a corporation for craftsmen within the silk industry, and Lyons became the undisputed French silk capital. Under Louis X IV, France was becoming the dominant force in Europe in matters of fashion and style. The major innovation of weaving was the Jacquard head attachment, which provided a mechanical means of raising warp threads by a series of punched cards. The are nouveau style did not have much impact on French silk design at the end of the century. Silk manufacturers began to collaborate with haute-couture designers such as the House of Worth. This collaboration with the burgeoning Paris haute-couture industry continued into the 20th century and safeguarded the future production of silk textiles in France.

• Journal of the Korean Society for Precision Engineering
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• v.13 no.3
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• pp.9-25
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• 1996

수치제어(Numerical control)의 개념은 1800년대부터 시작되었다. 프랑스의 Joseph Jacquard는 1801년에 구멍을 낸 카드(Perforated cards)를 이용하여 베틀기계에 직물의 모양을 Design하는데 자동적으로 Control 하는 방법을 창조해냈다. 그 후 구멍을 낸 카드를 이용하여 페달을 밟아 얻어진 공기를 Air motor와 Valve 를 조정하므로서 자동적으로 Piano를 연주하게 하는 방법도 역시 수치제어다. 이 NC의 개념이 실제 공작기계 에 적용된 것은 제2차 대전후의 일이다. 미공군(US Air force)에서는 복잡한 형상의 항공기부품가공과 그것을 검사할 검사용 Gauge를 고정밀도로 효율있게 제작할 필요성이 절실해졌다. 미국 Michigan주 Traverse시에 있던 Parsons회사도 Helicopter의 Rotor blade의 윤곽을 정확하게 검사하는 Plate gauge를 가공할 수 있는 기계를 개발하고 있었으며 그 회사의 사장 John T. Parsons씨는 Jig boringmachine을 전자적으로 제어하는 Plate gauge를 가공하는 방법을 미공군에 제안을 하였다. 1948년 미공군에서는 설계번경이 수없이 일어나는 Missile 의 부품을 단시간 내로 제작하기 위해서 Persons사와 기술계약을 맺고 새로운 공작기계 개발에 착수하므로서 NC공작기계 연구를 시작한 역사적인 시발점이 되었다.