• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.4 no.2 s.8
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• pp.50-64
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• 2006

This study was performed the analysis on the final usage and the pattern type of Jacquard fabrics through the surveyed data from the domestic and foreign textile fashion magazines[Book Moda, Fashion biz, Vogue] during recent 5 years(2000-2004). The result of this study can be summarized as follows. 1 Jacquard fabric mostly applies to apparel followed by accessory, interior decoration and bedding. As classified by uses, in apparel, it applies to One-pieces most followed by jackets and coats. In interior decoration, Slipcover uses Jacquard fabric most and then cushions, curtains and carpets. In accessory, neck ties use it most and then hand bags, hats and mufflers. In bedding, Jacquard fabric evenly applies to sheets, pillows, blankets and coverlet. 2. As classified by uses above, flowered patterns apply to each use most followed by geometric patterns, abstract patterns, ethnic patterns, art patterns and animal patterns. In addition, flowered patterns apply to apparel most and then interior decoration, accessory and bedding. Geometric patterns apply to apparel, accessory, interior decoration and bedding orderly. It is researched that abstract patterns and ethnic patterns also apply to apparel partially.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.91-101
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• 2010

This paper has the purpose of suggesting a development-method on the fashion products that would secure the competitiveness in the global markets through creating supersensitive practical products on the basis of developing originative fashion-goods being made of jacquard that is fine quality of couture. This paper has collected data through the cases of the developed nations in fashion, precedent studies and all the related literature on the subject. The results of this researching are as following: The first, it is expected that the necessity of developing new fashion products would be appealed toward the prestige group of consumers who are seeking for the fine quality and super-sensitivity in female fashion in Korea, and it is the current situation that the products made of jacquard are gradually expanding not only in the area of apparel, fashion goods and interior but also another areas. The current situation of the global market suggests the necessary strategy of survival, that is, the development of supersensitive materials and creative products which would be able to keep the high quality and lower the selling price through cost reduction. The second, the suggestion of the direction in developing the products of the female fashion made of jacquard has two points - the development of the texture that would realize a unique form and the development of the material that would be able to realize planar pattern and three dimensional pattern which are woven with thin and light materials with various solidity and delicacy through various techniques of mixing and three dimensional expression. The third, the expected ripple effect and utilization generated from the development of fashion products are as followings: As material characteristics of jacquard, It needs the specialization of various techniques and specialized production system in using jacquard, and the specialized technique and system would make it possible to produce not only the higher value-added products through expressing affluent colors and delicate design but also competitive products through cutting the process and cost, eventually, it would lead to the expansion of the jacquard market of super-sensitive prestige. Therefore, it is remarkable that various development of products toward the global market and the prestige female fashion market can suggest the vision that make the national fashion industry develop into the higher value-added knowledge industry integrating technology and culture.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.4
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• pp.522-537
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• 2021

The purpose of this study is to develop a knitwear design with the potential for practical use through a combination of science and design by examining the concept and formative characteristics of fractal geometry and applying them to the development of 3D virtual clothing knitwear design. This study produced five main conclusions. First, the sub-concepts of "Repeatability," "Scale variability," and "complexity," which are based on self-similarity, appear together with simple regularity in the fractal formative characteristics shown in fashion design. Second, fashion fields apply fractal geometry in three-dimensional surface textures and optical textile patterns as a method of expression. Third, it was confirmed that various expressions can be created with fractal patterns by using the SDS-ONE APEX 3-4 design system; moreover, fractal patterns are a suitable design source for the development of Jacquard knitwear patterns. Fourth, in the development of knitted jacquard fractal patterns, by arranging the patterns in perspective, the effect of emphasizing or reducing the human body by optical illusion was shown. Fifth, a knit Jacquard structure with a pattern that exhibits fractal modeling characteristics and applying it to a 3D virtual clothing sample design reduces the time required for sample production while expanding the knit design's expression area and reducing costs. Thus, the clothing sample confirmed the effectiveness of practical knitwear design development.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.412-423
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• 2016

This paper explores the possibility, and suggests an experimental procedure, of industrial application of traditional textile design techniques, such as hand silkprinting and natural dyeing. Theoretical and traditional background of this study is William Morris and his followers' Arts and Crafts Movement from the late 19th century to the early 20th century, which laid the philosophical as well as technical foundations of modern textile design tradition. Based on the basic understanding of the design philosophy, and starting from the design techniques of Morris and his successors, I made some experimental and systematic color plans reflecting and exploiting the physical traits and structure of jacquard woven silk material fabrics. And I applied hand silkscreen printing techniques on the jacquard silk fabrics of my own making, while testing various color combinations of natural dyes. After finishing final processing of design samples, I could get textile design products which met the criteria of my original expectation, i.e., eco-friendly and aesthetic design samples that can also be produced in automatized mass production system of contemporary textile industry. The conclusion of this experimental study is that I can expect the natural dyeing techniques, jacquard silk fabrics design techniques, silkprinting techniques, and the basic processes used in this study to be safely applied for contemporary commercial textile industry utilizing automatized silkscreen printing system and digital printing devices.

• 제어로봇시스템학회:학술대회논문집
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• 2002.10a
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• pp.118.3-118
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• 2002

$\textbullet$ Introduction $\textbullet$ The Structure and Operation of an Electronic Jacquard $\textbullet$ Design of Real-Time Error Detection System $\textbullet$ The System Realization and Verification $\textbullet$ Conclusion

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.14 no.5
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• pp.102-111
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• 2010

The pegging board planning for jacquard weaves was carried out to express a big enough design in 60 inch width. 20 Kinds of fabrics were fabricated by a jacquard loom with a warp density of 168 yarns/inch, a weft density of 100T, and a weight of 180-220g/$m^2$ or 250-300g/$m^2$. The result of sanitary test about Escherichia coli, Staphilococcus aureus, Klebsiella pneumoniae and Salmonella typhimurium showed a sterilizing power of over 90% after cultivating for 30, 60, 120 minutes. And also its property was sustained after laundrying 20 times. The flame retardant properties showed a good result and complied with the flame retardant criteria of KOFEI 1001. Abrasion, laundry and light fastnesses of flame retardant fabrics showed 4-5 grades. The fabrics manufactured from 30's fiber appeared a little fluff and pill on the fabric. Therefore, they need a shearing process after finishing all processes to decrease the fluff or pill on the fabric. The flame retardant fabric manufactured from 30's and 40's fiber showed increased strength and elongation after soaping and dyeing finishing because the fabrics were shrunk.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.645-652
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• 2014

This study identifies consumer needs and a pattern sensory evaluation of jacquard fabrics for raincoats using quick-drying-absorbing polyester. We investigate the consumer's consciousness and raincoat improvements. Twelve kinds of jacquard fabrics were developed for use in this study. Developed jacquard fabrics were assessed subjectively by 152 university students using a 7-point scale of 26 consumer needs and 31 pattern image sensory descriptors. Data were analyzed by SPSS. The major results were: There was a need for consumers to improve the front fastener type, cuff fastener, mesh patch position, and raincoat pocket position. The most important parameter to choose raincoat fabric was waterproof and the other parameters were vapor-porous/water repellent, design, color, fashionability, air-permeability and easy-put on/off. The pattern image sensibility of jacquard fabrics was explained by seven factors: gorgeous, simple, cute, futuristic, ethnic, feminine, and cool. A higher pattern preference was found in the jacquard fabrics of unique, sporty, natural, luxurious, and trendy images. The pattern preference was predicted at 45.3% with gorgeous, simple, pure, cute, futuristic factors. The correlation coefficient between the pattern image sensibility factor 1 (gorgeous) and pattern preference was 0.674 and with factor 3 (cute) was 0.416, and with factor 6 (cool) was 0.209. The 4 factors (gorgeous, simple, cute, futuristic) were selected as a significant pattern image sensibility that influenced preference.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.1
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• pp.69-83
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• 2011

This study applied cartoon-like simple and implicit symbol of Keith Haring works to tubular jacquard knit, designed woman casual knit wear with fun, explicit and activities using fluorescent yarns with explicit features. This study aimed to propose the directions for new market pioneering that meets the emotional requirements of modern people by raising the level of utilization and expression area of knit fashion, and to present the constructive directions for high value-added knit wear by designing highly effective knit wear. Methods of this study examined the lifetime and artistic background of Keith Haring and collected his works through searching of internet, scholastic publications or thesis. Formative types and colors of works collected were analyzed and classified according to characteristic standards of Haring and characteristic formativeness and color of works were extracted. The result of this study is as shown below: First, the feature of his works can be summarized into motif that has symbolic and implicit cartoon-like lines including narratives as well as enormous number of works. Such feature is very suitable for variation and recombination in realization of design and has unlimited potentials for development. Second, image colors can be extracted such as black and white, original color and fluorescent paints, which reflects the intention of artist who put focus on communication with the public. Such color feature is very suitable for design motif that has explicitness of reflecting the intention of artist through use of special fluorescent yarn. Third, I made it as reversible wear that has effects of increasing or decreasing the explicitness according to color area ratio using the feature of textures allowing use of both sides as well as form stability of tubular jacquard. Fourth, by adjusting the thickness of fabric with controlling of ply in fabric using poly yarn and wool union yarn, I could obtain good results of study in terms of technique that can express various materials with embossed dynamic effects of unevenness on flat surface.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.4 s.94
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• pp.95-106
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• 2005

The purpose of this study was to research the design methods to express jacquard design using CAD. For this study, two design patterns were divided; in addition, each design pattern is applied to two different weaving types, single woven fabric and double well cloths. As a result, 16 samples were produced by applying 4 design methods (warp shrunk as half size design/weft shrunk as half size design - A, warp shrunk as half size design/weft original size design - B, warp original size design/weft shrunk as half size design - C, warp original size design/weft original size design - D) to the two design patterns with the two weaving types. The result of this study can be summarized as follows. 1. The most delicate design method was Method D. However, Method B which took half the time less than Method D was almost as delicate as the Method D on the surface. 2. Method B was judged as a considerably efficient method for time and cost. 3. Method D was considered as most suitable for elaborate parts and delicate lines. However, it was considered uneconomical since it took the longest time. 4. Mettled A took 2.5 times less time than Method D. Therefore, Method A was more applicable to producing high density design. 5. Method C is not considered as a useful method as it showed rough surface and took long time by applying high design zoom except intentional design.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.722-734
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• 2008

This study focuses on the trend of modern society that places importance on health and happiness. By using gilsang (signs that brings good fortunes) patterns that wishes for fortune and health, the objective of this study is to design a distinct but universal fashion good that is unique to Korea and is used not only as a piece of artwork, but as part of development of new and assorted cultural products that is competitive in the international society. This study was conducted first by studying related documents for the theoretical background. In addition, in order to satisfy consumer demands, a jacquard that can procure international competitiveness was designed and fashion goods fitting to this was planned. Through this, the various possibilities of using the jacquard designs were suggested. The development process of fashion goods using jacquard was divided into 10 stages: theme setting, gilsang pattern setting, sketching, textile plan, design organization, input, simulation process, perforation and sewing, selection of design for the fashion good and goods production. Fashion materials are a very important element in creating variations and uniqueness in the fashion industry. Development of new materials has made the aesthetic and ornamental elements, together with the practical and functional aspects of textiles possible. A major issue today is rising out of the past mass production method of OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturing), and developing various artistic patterns that can be used in mass-produced products and assorted production in small quantities in order to develop specialized fashion goods.