• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제11권3호
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• pp.125-134
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to analyze the formative characteristics of power-shoulder jacket shown in 08/09 F/W and 09/10 F/W London, Paris, Milan, New York collection and extract main expression words for development of semantic differential scales of visual image according to the change in shoulder angle and width of power-shoulder jacket. The result of this study is as follows. Power-shoulder jacket which were worn by 1980 business women have similar cutting with men's suit jacket, but have characteristics of exaggerating the body figure as exaggerated shoulder with pad and tight waist like an inverted triangle silhouette. Power-shoulder jackets shown in collections used glossy and glittering material and dark colors and formed slim silhouette with matches of shoulder line of temperate senses and casual wear. Like this, the power-shoulder jacket was expanded to daily casual wear from traditional formal wear. Main expression words of visual image of jackets according to the changes in angle and width of shoulder differ greatly depending on the expansion degree of angle and width of shoulder. Changes in shoulder angle may look tense, stiff and too much according to the amount of changes. However, it also has the image of sharp but dignified and charismatic. Also, it helps to show body figure more efficiently like being slim and looking taller. Related to the current trend emphasizing shoulder among women, it is evaluated to be stylish and trendy. When the expansion degree is not too much, changes in shoulder width partly show slim and slender waist under the influence of wider shoulder with basic tailored jacket image. However, when the expansion degree is enlarged, image related to the body figure is more definite compared to other visual images.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제22권6호
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• pp.844-852
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• 2020

This study is to understand the preferences of pilots, flight engineers and crew who work in the same aircraft but are exposed to different working environments and perform different mission operations in order to develop an ergonomic flight jacket. Based on a preliminary investigation, a survey of 107 pilots and 36 flight engineers and crew was conducted. The results are as follows; Pilots can control the temperature inside the cockpit, so they are less exposed to the cold when working, while flight engineers and crew are exposed to the cold more because they have many external tasks. The reason for the problem of the current flight jacket was a difference in ranking between two groups, but the highest ranking was poor dimensional suitability due to the habit of wearing layers of clothing. As a result of preferred design, there were significant differences between groups in the item of overall style. Pilots preferred a bomber jacket style(P:68.2%, E&C:44.4%), on the other hand, flight engineers and crew preferred a field jacket style(P:26.2%, E&C:55.6%)(p<.01). They preferred a stand collar(P:71.0%, E&C:86.1%), a fastener slider for a front fastening(P:62.6%, E&C:61.1%), fastener tape cuffs(P:54.2%, E&C:47.2%), a jacket with a softshell(P:86.9%, E&C:83.3%), fleece as softshell material(P:88.8%, E&C:69.4%), and fastener sliders as a attaching method(P:69.2%, E&C:61.1%). A hem fastening will be selected differently according to the overall style of outshell. Additionally, they preferred more than 5ea pockets(P:51.4%, E&C:44.4%), fastener sliders as pocket's fastenings(P:48.6%, E&C:61.1%), armpit ventilations(P:62.9%, E&C:58.5%). The results of above will be considered to design an ergonomic flight jacket.

• 복식
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• 제61권4호
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• pp.152-168
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to develop a design prototype of outdoor-wear which is suitable for trekking. For achieving this purpose, 6 factors(bodice, sleeve, hood, pockets, opening, hem-line) considered for clothing function were selected, classified, and complemented based on the survey of literature and the research of 185 designs in 12 outdoor-wear brands. The results are as follows; The removable hood and 4DM sleeve style with the elastic band and velcro for the cuffs was the most preferred in the detail design on the brand research. And also the ventilation function and 1 or 2 diagonal in-seam pocket, covered zipper was preferred. Based on this result, two design prototypes of men's outdoor-wear for trekking were suggested; jacket 1 has a slim waist line and a hip length. Front opening has a zip and placket for windproof effect. There is a detachable hood with stopper around the head line. 4DM sleeve and elastic band inserted at the end of sleeve, so that prevent the hem-line raising. Two inseam pocket is placed slightly diagonal. Jacket 2 is a hood jacket with a york. The Jacket has a little roomier in waist and a hip length. Front opening is fastened by a waterproof zip. It has a 4DM sleeve and a princess line to make it placed two pocket which have ventilation functionality.

• 복식
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• 제58권1호
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• pp.33-44
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to investigate the effects of the style and the color of jacket, the style of shirt, and stimulus-manufacturing method on men's image perception. A quasi-experimental method by questionnaire was used, and the experimental design was $2{\times}2{\times}2{\times}2$ (jacket style${\times}$jacket color${\times}$shirt style${\times}$stimulus-manufacturing method) factorial design. Computer simulation picture and photograph were used for stimulus-manufacturing method. Subjects were 377 women in the metropolitan area of Seoul. The data were analyzed by using factor analysis, Cronbach's ${\alpha}$-reliability coefficient, and three-way ANOVA. The men's image derived five dimensions by factor analysis; neatness, ability, activity, individuality, and sociability. Tailored jacket with jean pants was evaluated higher in ability, individuality, and sociality than jumper with jean pants, and jumper was evaluated higher than tailored jacket in activity. The indigo jacket was evaluated lower in individuality in the picture stimuli than in the photograph stimuli. The beige tailored jacket with jean pants was evaluated higher in activity than indigo tailored jacket. However, the indigo jumper was evaluated higher in activity than beige jumper. Dress shirt under the tailored jacket was evaluated higher in ability and individuality than T-shirt under the tailored jacket. T-shirt under the jumper was evaluated higher in activity than dress shirt.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제23권1호
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• pp.118-128
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• 2021

This study used a preliminary survey to help develop an ergonomic flight jacket that is suitable for the working environment and mission performance. The results are as follows. The ergonomic sleeve pattern was designed with a forward 165° incline that considers a shoulder joint direction suitable for the motion; in addition, a closely design opening provided warmth and safety from fire. As a result of the dimensional suitability, pilots evaluated that sleeve length and total length of the developed flight jacket were a little long (p<.01), while flight engineers and crew evaluated that those of the developed flight jacket were appropriate (p<.01). Pilots evaluated that chest circumference and waist circumference were large (p<.05), while flight engineers and crews evaluated that those of the developed flight jacket were appropriate. The evaluation of the motion suitability indicated that pilots, flight engineers and crew found the developed flight jacket more comfortable than the current flight jacket (p<.05, p<.01, p<.001). The evaluation of the usability of pockets and penholders indicated that pilots, flight engineers and crew found the developed jacket easier to use (p<.01). The flight engineers and crew evaluated that the appearance of the developed flight jacket was better than the current flight jacket (p<.05). The results of this study show that the difference of environment and mission performance has a significant influence on evaluation; therefore, it is necessary to develop separate military uniforms that included a winter flight jacket to reflect the needs of each group.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제18권3호
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• pp.363-373
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• 2016

This study aims to develop an all-fabric integrated smart jacket in order to create a temperature-regulating system based on a user experience design. For this research, previous research technologies of a textile switch interface and a temperature-regulating system were utilized and a unifying technology for the all-fabric integrated smart jacket was developed which can provide the appropriate temperature environments to the human body. A self-heating textile was applied at the areas of the back and hood in the final tested jacket, and an embroidery circuit was developed in the form of a rectangle in the back and in both ears of the hood, taking into account the pattern of the jacket part where it was be applied and the embroidery production method. The textile switch interface was designed in a three-layer structure: an embroidery circuit line in a conductive yarn, an interval material, and a conductive sensing material, and it was made to work with the input and output sensors through the multiple input method. After the all-fabric integrated smart jacket was produced according to the pattern, all of the textile band lines for transmission were gathered and connected with a miniature module for controlling temperature and then integrated into the inside of the left chest pocket of the jacket. After the users put on this jacket, they were asked to assess the wearing satisfaction. Most of them reported a very low level of irritation and discomfort and said that the jacket was as comfortable as everyday clothing.

• 복식
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• 제63권8호
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• pp.143-155
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• 2013

The outdoor apparel market has been growing very fast recently, and consumers are spending more time doing outdoor activities for their leisure. As the outdoor apparel market is growing, it has started to combine functionality with style to provide more diverse designs and colors for all ages. The increase of interest in heathy life-styles, outdoor activities, and leisure has lead to a rise in demand for outdoor apparel. Now outdoor apparel have become a part of people's daily casual wear in addition to being worn for outdoor activities. This study is focused on a outdoor jacket design which is used as down-alternative material and the purpose of this study is to design outdoor jackets using a down-alternative fabrics that improve the thermal and lightweight effects for clothing comfort, and increase the satisfaction of wearing down-alterative outdoor jacket. The research of this paper was done by using a questionnaire survey. The survey was used to examine the male customers' outdoor activities, purchase behaviors, place, expense and design preferences. Then, down-like fabric was used to make the prototype down jacket and its design, function, and satisfaction with wearing compared with other brands down jacket products were analyzed. Although duck down fabrics are representative of outdoor jackets, they have many problems that need to be solved such as feathers falling out or its vulnerability to moisture. They have competitive prices compared to down jackets so down-alternative jackets are able to gain more proportion of its market share.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제20권3호
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• pp.266-278
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• 2018

This study investigated the transformation of the Chanel jacket by looking at clothing design and constructional components. This study explored Chanel jacket's designs from 2001 S/S to 2016-17 F/W, and collected designs from Samsung Design Net and Vogue. The study used 690 designs with the following results. First, in the silhouette of the Chanel jacket, straight silhouette and hourglass silhouette had the most; in addition, in the length, hip line and under hip line were in order. Second, in case of collar and neckline, the form of a non-collar was the most and revealed the persistence of round neckline which is the basic style of a Chanel jacket. Third, in the shape of sleeves, the loose-fit straight sleeves, wide sleeves, and cocoon sleeves appeared most often. In method of closure, button, zipper were in order, and snaps or without closure appeared. Fourth, in the form of braids, various forms such as twisted yarns, leashes, or lace were used, and patch pockets were mainly used in pockets. Chanel maintains its original design by using various methods. Chanel tried to improve activity and functionality through silhouettes, lengths, necklines, and sleeves. The unchanging expression of the world of Chanel will continue to display and inherit future value. This study can provide Chanel's unique characteristics and new ideas that can transform their origins for jacket design.

• 복식
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• 제62권5호
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• pp.138-155
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• 2012

Exaggerations have always been seen in the past and present. In the past, they represented wealth and high social status, but now they are being used to express one's beauty and personality. This has led to the diversity in design through widening each person's emotions. Likewise, exaggerations have been changed from the past to the present and so will they in the future. This study focuses on proposing patterns to enhance the utility and practical use of exaggerated jacket designs and its methods are based on documents and preceded studies. Pattern making is composed of drawing patterns and showing their forms by basting - which are a technique that is explained in this study's outcome - and the basic pattern is the style of Wan Suk. Suh. Jackets are made with exaggerating factors in the women's collections of 2011 F/W and are designed for various ages. With the knowledge of structuring a jacket, anyone could easily follow the instructions. In the end, he/she could elevate the ability to express, use practically and apply this idea in general fields of fashion industry.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제23권6호
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• pp.744-757
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• 2021

This study aims to develop a bodice and a jacket in 3D of the late 19th to early 20th based on the pattern drafting book of Gordon S. S., which contains body measurement method and pattern drafting system. The findings of this research are as follows. First, female tops of the late 19th to early 20th century are categorized as outer, jacket, vest, and bodice. Of these, this study highlights the jacket, which can be divided into 4 types: 4 kinds of basic jacket, 2 kinds of riding jacket, bolero jacket, and newmarket jacket. Second, by referring to Gordon's pattern drafting system and book, a bodice was developed in 3D format based on the adherence to the following steps: analysis of the pattern drafting system, pattern drafting, 3D virtual simulation, 3D virtual fitting analysis, and the pattern correction. A bodice pattern corrected by 3D virtual clothing simulation results was proposed. Last, a basic sleeve and collar pattern for a basic jacket was drafted, which was followed by the correction and transformation of the bodice pattern. The jacket developed shows great fit except for the issues at the armhole line and shoulder, which were caused by the unique shape of the sleeves(big sleeve head) of the time. The study attempted to develop the past costumes in 3D, providing the basis for interdisciplinary research in the field of fashion history field and suggesting a new approach for the virtual restoration of costumes. Future studies should target to 3D virtual simulation in accordance to the 3D avatar pose in the developed virtual costume.