• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.493-511
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• 2000

The objective of this study was to trace and to examine costume terminologies recorded in Pak Tong Sa Eun Hae. Names of costumes and costume related terms were collected from P마 Tong Sa Eun Hae. Books and various references from China and Korea were used for this study. Costume terms were examined from the Chinese and Korean. Classifications of costume terminologies from the data were made for the analysis : man and woman's costume, accessories, names of fabrics, colors, and decorative motifs used, professional costume, special occasion dresses and so on. Conclusions and summary of results and findings can be summerized as follows : It revealed that manes of man's costume and other costume related words were a large in number compared with those of woman. Only one name of woman's costume appeared in the text : It was kind of long vests. However, names of accessories such as a hat, a hat decorated with jewels and phoenix design, a hair pin, earings, bracelets, finger rings, a soft belt were shown in the text. While many costume names of man included in the text were of garments such as a kind of long vest, a short vest, an outer robe, a kind of long coat with pleated skirt, leg coverings, outer jacket and so on. Also names of undergarments such as an under skirt, a belly covering, and drawers were found in the text. Fabric names were mostly silks such as brocade, twill, sarcenet, damasks and plain silks. Blue was the most widely appeared fabric color in the text and red was the second. Design motifs of fabric design were of dragon, flowers, eight precious things, clouds which were characteristic design motifs of the Chinese. It was found that some of the Chinese costume terminologies were translated into the Korean although many Chinese costume terms were used as the original Chinese.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.116-129
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• 2013

This research analyzes the status of clothes purchase and the size fit of the clothes for kindergarten children in the Daegu city area. The total of 344 questionnaires were analyzed. The summary and the conclusion are as follows: First, the frequency of accompanying children when purchasing appeared mostly 'sometimes accompany'. Second, the parents appeared 'sometimes reflect children's opinions'. Third, the main information source was 'store display'. The main place of purchase was large discount stores, internet home-shopping, and department stores (respectively) with significant differences in the age of the parent(p<.05) and monthly incomes(p<.001). In the clothes size selection, 72.1% of the parents selected 'one size larger' at time purchase and showed asignificant difference by monthly income. Repair-experience after purchase appeared in 31.4% of the samples because of the inadequate length and width of the clothes. The unfit clothes parts were in the order of pant length, sleeve length, waist part, jacket length, pant width, hip part, and crotch, which showed a significant difference in children based on gender. The salient purchasing point for child clothing was in the order of 'size fit', 'color and pattern', 'design' and 'convenience in action'. It is important to consider that kindergarten children need adequate size for growing and convenient pattern designs (that include materials at stretching parts) for positive acting because they are in a period of frequent activity and growth.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.111-121
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• 2004

The Mevelana sect is a spiritual Islamic group experiencing spiritual transaction with their god through a peculiar dancing as a form of religious ritual. The Mevelana, a sect of Islamic Sufism, has their head mosque in Konya in Turkey. Although Mevelana sect is regarded as heretic of Islam, it has exerted considerable influence on the Islamic religion through its peculiar religious worshiping form constituted in dancing and reciting poems. Nowadays, Turkey recognizes the Mevelana dancing as their precious cultural legacy of a long history, exerting public information efforts to give it for wider publicity of Turkey to the world. The Mevelana dress with ornament attired for the ritual dancing performance is regarded to symbolize a spiritual medium, which leads to conciliation with the eternity. The straight lines and curved line characteristic of the Mevelana dancer's trousers, skirt, jacket and such mirrors the image of the Orientals, which is in peculiar contrast with the white and gray colors of the dress with ornament. The impression of the spiritual Mevelana dressing in harmony with the dynamic dancing motion goes beyond mere a religious dressing. It is expressive of a graceful and sophisticated modern formative art, of which the mystic design gives an inspiration to the modern fashion. After Poiret, Islamic factors have emerged in the modern fashion. For instance, a hat with Arabic fashion lapel, a Fez hat of Turkish style, harem pants and such are still popular in the modern fashion. It seems probable that the Iraq War would far more activate the influence of Arabic culture to the modern fashion. By making an analysis on the religious background and formative characteristics of the Mevelana dressing, and by giving design examples on how the Mevelanan dressing has been applied to the modern fashion, this research suggests working out new designs by making a renewed application of their characteristics to the modern fashion.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.6
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• pp.838-847
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• 2011

The object of this study is as follows. First, according to the silhouette of clothes, I will search the relationship with the embroidery design. Second, I will investigate the relation of coloration about the clothes color and embroidery color. Third, I will search the relation with the image in clothes and embroidery design characteristic. The data acquisition is selected to the total 447 pictures of embroidery clothing design from the www.style.com, www.samsungdesign.net which are the related information site. The data are limited from S/S season in 2004 till F/W season in 2008 in the Paris, Milano, and New York collection. The analytical method was made through the analyze method and statistical method. First, on the relation with the clothes silhouette and embroidery design, if the satin stitch technique is utilized as the X-shaped or A-line silhouette in the one-piece and dress, the image which is elegant and feminine can be expressed. if the satin stitch technique is utilized as the H-line silhouette in jacket and court, the mannish image can be expressed. Second, the embroidery color showed up as the contrast combination of the monotone when the clothes color was the monochrome. And the embroidery color showed up as the tone in which is bright and sober when clothes color had 2 or 3 or 4. So, if the embroidery color is utilized as the similar color scheme, it will be effective. Third, if the embroidery technique of the one-piece and dress is utilized as the the satin stitch technique and the bloom and leaf motive being stylized pattern is used in the all-over and border pattern, It will be effective to express the romantic/feminine, ethnic/folklore, active, and classic image.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.6 no.5
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• pp.27-40
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• 2002

The purpose of this thesis is presenting desirable design of uniform which could reflect high school girls' demands with the researches on their consciousness of fashion and actual state of uniforms. Methods to accomplish this research include first, examinationson characteristics of high school girls and their consciousness of fashion with relevant articles, second, interviews with designers from major domestic uniform brands - ELITE, IVY, SMART - and third, analysis on related internet sites. Practical researches are followed by design analysis and proposal of improvement on high school girls' uniform, accompanied by collection of photographs from field studies, major uniform brands' shops and uniform related internet sites. Korean high school girls in the digital era are able to express themselves in each different fashion with own individuality, preference or intention, as they are particularly interested in clothes or their appearances. Their consciousness of fashion became visible in a shape of negative attitude and dissatisfaction with uniforms due to its out-of-date design, lack of features and inconvenience in action. Besides more than half of high school girls already experienced reforming it for better looks. As a result of current analysis on references of uniform designs, various levels of refinement were noticed even in uniform of similar details, design, fabric textile and color due to differences on size & length of jacket collar, dart, cutting line, size of details, decorative line, easiness in fit, length of clothes, and etc. To provide students of more refined and desired designs which reflect their demands, current uniforms are to begin acquiring delicate changes with present vogue and feature such as size of details, silhouette, cutting line, decorative line and etc. In addition newly designed uniforms are to present desirable design with image of refinement and neat as they actively comprehend students' needs within its symbolic, functional, economic and aesthetic characteristics by nature.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.37 no.5
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• pp.691-703
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• 2013

The costume culture of ladies in late Goryeo is an important and rare source for cultural fashion souvenir design. This study investigates the historical costume design sources of late Goryeo to suggest high quality traditional and practical ornament souvenir designs for female dolls as well as examples of coordination with doll costumes. The costume culture of late Goryeo contained golden Buddhism and a revival of $12^{th}$ century Goryeo costume characteristic after the period of Mongolian influences from the Yuan. The main sources for doll ornament designs are $14^{th}$ century Buddhist paintings, a few ornament relics of Goryeo, ancient literature, and portraits of ladies in the $14^{th}$ century that originated from five doll's traditional ornaments (lotus hairpin, cloud-shaped hairpin, Buddhist flower hair ornament, vase-shaped Binyeo, and bell of animalhuman face) and three wig designs (wigs from Buddhist paintings and portraits, and hairpiece) with bleached gilding silver, silk, various gemstones and synthetic hair. These doll ornament and wig designs imply the symbol of Buddhism, exorcism, and costume culture of $14^{th}$ century Goryeo ladies that can be matched with two doll gowns, half-sleeved jacket, skirt, two Jogoris, apron, under trousers as formal, semi-formal, and town-wear according to the T.P.O of late Goryeo; in addition, five ornaments can be used as owner's ornaments. The partial changing colors and materials due to the characteristics of doll ornament goods as well as better communication between researcher and constructor remain to be improved.

• Journal of the Korea Concrete Institute
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.11-18
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• 2010

In this study, a procedure of performance-based design for the seismic retrofit of reinforced concrete columns strengthened by steel jackets has been presented. In order to predict the target displacement of retrofitted columns, a nonlinear analysis of reinforced concrete columns retrofitted with steel jackets has been developed based on a segmental model with the fiber cross-sectional approach. The seismic displacement level of retrofitted columns is estimated both by the direct displacement-based design method and by the displacement coefficient method. In examples of seismic retrofitted columns, the current seismic retrofit procedure gives good results in improvements of displacement levels and displacement ductilities of retrofitted columns.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.8
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• pp.83-96
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• 2014

This study aims to analyze the design of current nurse uniforms, investigate the state of nurse uniforms, and uniform design preferences in order to ultimately develop functional nurse uniform, which satisfy their needs. First, observing photos of nurses' campaign on wearing a badge showed that opening of top uniform almost always incorporated buttons, and sleeves were mostly set-in half sleeves while collars tended to be mandarin collars. The colors were mostly white for both top and bottom, while the top showed a bit more variety in colors. White tops often incorporated hospital logos on them. Second, in terms of the nurse uniform distribution, each nurse is given one top and one bottom per year. In addition, either a cardigan or a jacket on top of the regular summer uniform constitutes the winter uniform, whereas the availability of cardigans differed by hospitals. Third, the main source of contamination of uniforms was blood, and the level of satisfaction was all low in terms of the design, function, and material of the uniform, calling for the enhancement and development of new uniforms. Design preferences were two-piece with pants, color preferences were blue and pink, and pattern preferences were hospital logo, stripes, and check patterns in the listed order of preference. Complaints were usually made on the contamination of front pocket of the top, lack of sufficient pockets for storage, and tightness of the sleeves. Some preferences on finishing were the princess seams, mandarin collar, set-in half sleeves, and button closing on top. The preferred belt was a mixed form of straight-lined belt and rubber belt, and straight lined hem and spandex blended fabrics were favored for the clothing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.8
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• pp.1286-1297
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• 2002

This study was aimed at conducting a survey and analyzing its results on the purchase and wearing conditions and design preference of sports casual wear among women and men in their twenties and thirties according to region, gender, age and income. The survey was administered using a website and was conducted among the persons who purchased sports casual wear more than once a year. The statistical results were analyzed from 497 questionnaires of respondents residing in Seoul, Gyeonggi Province, six metropolitan cities and other cities and provinces. The results of this study were summarized as follows. 1) Results of wearing conditions and preference of sports casual wear : The respondents of the survey answered that they had purchased 1 or 2 clothing items for a year and the order of buying the popular wear ranked sport shirt, jacket, trousers respectively. They chose mostly shades of gray, and the most favored design type were a chin collar, a set-in sleeves, a mixed type of band cuffs and elastic band, side zip-pockets, a full-zip front fastener, alight warm-up hood, and a small front upper chest type logo; 2)Analysis of the differences in purchase and wearing conditions in accordance with region, gender, age and income : The largest proportion of respondents who answered thar had purchased 4 or more clothing items for a year were Seoul residents and in particular the residents south of the Han river. The customers under thirty usually obtained their information about sports casual wear by visiting stores in person. The men obtain a variety of information through printed materials and related Internet sites; 3) Analysis of preferential differences of the detailed partial design : The purchasers in their 20's preferred black white, and gray patterns, however that preference shifted for those in their late 20's and the preference for pastel colors increased. The purchasers in their 20's and mid 30's had a preference for a chin collar and an eight-shaped zip type pockets. The men preferred a band cuff and a detachable hood type but women favored an elastic band and a light warm-up hood type.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.423-438
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• 2021

This study compared and analyzed the direction of Louis Vuitton creative directors Kim Jones and Virgil Abloh. Accordingly, 485 photos(251 Kim Jones, 234 Virgil Abloh) were collected. For data analysis, statistical and content analyses were combined. First, as for the overall design characteristics of creative director Kim Jones, complex colors, colorful barrels, tone-in-tone color schemes, H-line, plain fabrics, soft materials, heterogeneous material combinations, casual style. Second, as for the overall design characteristics of creative director Virgil Abloh, achromatic color, colorful tone, tone-on-tone color scheme, I-line, plain fabric, soft material, similar material combination, casual style. There were significant differences in color, tone, color scheme, silhouette, pattern, material type, material combination, fashion image, detail, trimming, top and bottom that differed in the creative directors' design direction. Therefore, it appears that Kim Jones has been directing the luxurious and unique men's wear through H-line, coat and slim pants, colorful color combination, soft material, heterogeneous material combination, plain fabric, and chic active sensibility. Meanwhile, Virgil Abloh is directing men's wear in a loose and trendy street mood through the I-line, jacket and wide pants, achromatic color, soft material, plain fabric, similar material combinations, and soft and sophisticated modern sensibility.