• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.1
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• pp.33-44
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to investigate the effects of the style and the color of jacket, the style of shirt, and stimulus-manufacturing method on men's image perception. A quasi-experimental method by questionnaire was used, and the experimental design was $2{\times}2{\times}2{\times}2$ (jacket style${\times}$jacket color${\times}$shirt style${\times}$stimulus-manufacturing method) factorial design. Computer simulation picture and photograph were used for stimulus-manufacturing method. Subjects were 377 women in the metropolitan area of Seoul. The data were analyzed by using factor analysis, Cronbach's ${\alpha}$-reliability coefficient, and three-way ANOVA. The men's image derived five dimensions by factor analysis; neatness, ability, activity, individuality, and sociability. Tailored jacket with jean pants was evaluated higher in ability, individuality, and sociality than jumper with jean pants, and jumper was evaluated higher than tailored jacket in activity. The indigo jacket was evaluated lower in individuality in the picture stimuli than in the photograph stimuli. The beige tailored jacket with jean pants was evaluated higher in activity than indigo tailored jacket. However, the indigo jumper was evaluated higher in activity than beige jumper. Dress shirt under the tailored jacket was evaluated higher in ability and individuality than T-shirt under the tailored jacket. T-shirt under the jumper was evaluated higher in activity than dress shirt.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.118-128
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• 2021

This study used a preliminary survey to help develop an ergonomic flight jacket that is suitable for the working environment and mission performance. The results are as follows. The ergonomic sleeve pattern was designed with a forward 165° incline that considers a shoulder joint direction suitable for the motion; in addition, a closely design opening provided warmth and safety from fire. As a result of the dimensional suitability, pilots evaluated that sleeve length and total length of the developed flight jacket were a little long (p<.01), while flight engineers and crew evaluated that those of the developed flight jacket were appropriate (p<.01). Pilots evaluated that chest circumference and waist circumference were large (p<.05), while flight engineers and crews evaluated that those of the developed flight jacket were appropriate. The evaluation of the motion suitability indicated that pilots, flight engineers and crew found the developed flight jacket more comfortable than the current flight jacket (p<.05, p<.01, p<.001). The evaluation of the usability of pockets and penholders indicated that pilots, flight engineers and crew found the developed jacket easier to use (p<.01). The flight engineers and crew evaluated that the appearance of the developed flight jacket was better than the current flight jacket (p<.05). The results of this study show that the difference of environment and mission performance has a significant influence on evaluation; therefore, it is necessary to develop separate military uniforms that included a winter flight jacket to reflect the needs of each group.

• Ocean Systems Engineering
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• v.9 no.4
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• pp.369-390
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• 2019

Herein, we present numerical simulation based model to study the use of a 'Tuned Mass Damper (TMD)' - particularly spring mass systems - to control the displacements at the deck level under seismic and ice loads for an offshore jacket structure. Jacket is a fixed structure and seismic loads can cause it to vibrate in the horizontal directions. These motions can disintegrate the structure and lead to potential failures causing extensive damage including environmental hazards and risking the lives of workers on the jacket. Hence, it is important to control the motion of jacket because of earthquake and ice loads. We analyze an offshore jacket platform with a tuned mass damper under the earthquake and ice loads and explore different locations to place the TMD. Through, selected parametric variations a suitable location for the placement of TMD for the jacket structure is arrived and this implies the design applicability of the present research. The ANSYS^*TM mechanical APDL software has been used for the numerical modeling and analysis of the jacket structure. The dynamic response is obtained under dynamic seismic and ice loadings, and the model is attached with a TMD. Parameters of the TMD are studied based on the 'Principle of Absorption (PoA)' to reduce the displacement of the deck level in the jacket structure. Finally, in our results, the proper mass ratio and damping ratios are obtained for various earthquake and ice loads.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.15-27
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to find texture which suitable for the acryl knitted jacket of women in the middle age. The study was carried out 2 parts. The first part was to choose the pattern fitted in the body shape of women in the middle age, and the second part was wearing test with 3 different textured acryl knitted jacket(half milano, milano, jacquard). The usable data of the test were coded for further statistical analysis including descriptive statistics (frequency and one way-ANOVA test, Student-Newman-Keuls Multiple Range Test) by using SPSSWIN 12.0. The results were as follows: It was found that first evaluation for the appearance test on fitness, pattern B(Brand: Morado) were better than the rest of them(pattern A: Trieste, pattern C: Escalier). It was found that second evaluation for the test, jacket with jacquard were better than the rest of them. Acryl knitted Jacket of women in the middle age should made of jacquard. Therefore it should be designed as possible as considering the physical characteristics of knitted materials. It was found that third evaluation for the test, it was opposite results that a general knitted fabric pattern was made smaller than a woven jacket. So, it was necessary that the acryl knitted jacket of women in the middle age follow a similar site tolerance such as a woven jacket. This result was due to a radical change of a middle age women's body shape.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.4
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• pp.485-491
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to analyze the wearing fitness of middle aged women's jacket with non-Stretchable Fabric and stretchable fabric. We surveyed the size of jackets and process of pattern making with stretchable fabric in companies which produce the clothing mainly for middle aged women. Based upon the result of process of pattern making, two kind of experimental jacket with non-stretchable and stretchable fabric were made. We measured space length between body and garment using 3D scanner and analyzed the clothing pressure 7 parts of body with 3 kinds of arm raising. The result were as follows : 1. Most parts of space length except bust were higher in non-stretchable jacket than in stretchable jacket. 2. Clothing pressure showed greater value with non-stretchable fabric jacket than with stretchable fabric jacket. Clothing pressure in upper arm point areas increased as the angle of the arm raising increased. Therefore, the sleeve width and armhole depth should he considered when the amount of wearing ease were reduced in jacket with stretchable fabric.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.1 s.139
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• pp.91-102
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• 2005

The purpose of this study was to investigate the range of variation for commonly accepted ease in a business jacket and thus to find solutions to the problem of fit and ease in ready-to-wear jackets. This study was based on anthropometric measurements, pattern measurements, which were used to calculate ease amount according to each jacket part. The survey subjects were 493 males, between 25 to 59 years old, buying a jacket at stores in Seoul. In the results, the aesthetic purpose of a business jacket(custom-fit jacket) was clearly observed by the means of controlling the ease amount at chest, waist and hip. The ease at chest and waist(ready-to-wear) clearly revealed a difference among prototypes. This result can be explaned by the regular drops and the similar length-width proportions between sizes in ready-to-wear Jackets. Therefore, customers with varying body drop differences, who had to choose a homogeneous jacket drop, experienced too much ease at the Waist and Hip compared with custom-fit customers. In addition, the height could be an integral factor to affect the ease of jacket length and sleeve length. The ease at these parts was significantly different among height groups and showed negative relationships.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.7
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• pp.60-74
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• 2015

It is considered that jacket was widespread in the 19th century due to its simple and convenient production technique. This study aims to explore the western women's jacket in the late 19th century, which is the basis of modern women's outwear, and we focused on the patterns and construction, the technical aspect of the jacket. We researched pattern books and preserved costume materials, and the study methods are as follows: First, we analyzed the pattern of the jackets from the pattern books and preserved costumes. Second, we analyzed the construction of the jackets from the preserved costumes and compared it to previous researches. The study results are as follows: 19th century jacket consisted of a bodice, a back bodice, a side panel, two-piece sleeve and a collar. The front bodice had cuttings and a dart to make the jacket fit the shape of the body and the two-pieced leg of mutton sleeve, puffed at the shoulder. Various styles of collar and neckline existed. The pattern suggested diverse ways of designing a jacket, such as cutting with partition, dart and pattern expansion that focused on three-dimensional effect at that time.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.167-181
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• 2011

This study had researched purchase trend and preference of jacket design in order to develop a prototype of an outdoor wear jacket that can be worn for a light outdoor activity targeting middle-aged men and women. An outdoor wear was purchased mostly in a permanent discount store and functionality such as activity and material was considered as important in addition to design. There was difference in ages for the jacket style, but in general, people preferred a wind protection jacket and men preferred black colors and women preferred red colors. For the design of jacket, both men and women had preferred a jacket that has moderate fitness with detachable hat and a zipper, and it was applied to the prototype. The jacket had applied different color in the armhole line that is connected to sleeve in order to make waist look slimmer and stretchable material was used to improve functionality in the armpit part.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.136-152
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to provide dress forms and jacket blocks for adult males based on the analysis of their somatotypes. As the result of the research conducted for this study that was based on 1290 males of 20 to 54 years-old, the shapes of adult male were 20 and each body shape was classified by size factor, height and chest girth. Also, master sizes were selected considering appearance frequency. XS type (master size: height 165cm and chest circumference 88cm), Yd type (master size: height 170cm and chest circumference 91cm), YI and AD2 types (master size: height 170cm and chest circumference 94cm) were selected to develop dress forms and their jacket blocks in this study. The procedure and results were follows; 1. The dress forms of XS, Yd, YI and AD2 types were produced base on means of 61 body measurements and cross sections of shoulder, chest, waist, hip of subjects belong to each somatotype. 2. New jacket blocks for XS, Yd, YI and AD2 types were developed based on the body surface developments through draping and the results of comparative investigation on the existing jacket blocks by wearing test. Also the drafting methods of new jacket blocks were provided. 3. The sensory evaluation by wearing test showed that the developed jacket blocks were estimated more highly in terms of chest's allowance, the front width's allowance, neck wrinkle, front allowance and overall appearance's fitness items than existing jacket blocks.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.43 no.3
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• pp.361-372
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• 2019

This study investigates the problems of fitness and motion suitability for Korean female military winter jackets (inner and outer) and provides data for new pattern development. We analyzed fitness and motion suitability by a questionnaire survey with 39 Korean female soldiers and a wearing evaluation with 8 subjects of the female soldeier's center size. The results of the study are as follows. 1. In the survey result on the fitness with female soldiers, fit of collar showed a score lower than 3.0 for the inner jacket and front interscye breadth, chest circumference, collar height on the outer jacket. The result on the motion suitability showed that both the inner jacket and the outer jacket were above 3.0 (moderate), indicating that the dissatisfactory factors were not large. 2. The wearing evaluation results with the subjects of central army female size, discomfort factor derived the chest circumference, neck circumference, item of the hem circumference and collar height on the outer jacket. This study is meaningful in evaluating the current military winter jacket of female soldiers and it is expected to be used as a basic data for future pattern improvement of military winter jacket for female soldiers.