• Conservation Science in Museum
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• v.13
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• pp.37-44
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• 2012

White crystals on 46 costumes excavated from Shim Su-Ryun(1534 - 1589)'s tomb were examined their characterization and distribution. In 36 of such samples, white crystals with different shape and hardness were found. The formation of crystals did not correlated with a kind and use of textiles. However, crystals were found in the back side than the front of costume, specially around the marks of shrouding dead body. White crystals from 7 textiles were investigated by EPMA, XRD, or FT-IR. The composition of white crystal was analysed by EPMA and the structure characterization of crystals was used by X-ray diffraction. FT-IR spectroscopy was applied to check if non-crystalline compounds were also present. Mg and P were detected as the main element of white crystals and these compounds were identified a struvite and newberyite, the inorganic mineral magnesium ammonium phosphates. Struvite precipitation are influenced by many factors including concentration of Mg²⁺, NH₄⁺, and PO₄^3- ions, pH, and temperatures. It is assumed that magnesium, phosphorous, ammonia, a base material of struvite comes from decomposition product of human body. Tomb covered with lime, a unique triple-structure in Joseon period offering the basic condition, an anaerobe in a coffin, and high magnesium concentration of outer coffin with lime can be inferred as important factor for precipitation of crystals.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.62-76
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• 2015

The purpose of this study was to analyze and compare the shapes, colors, patterns, and hairstyles of Qipao worn by heroines that were reconstructed over times, in a Chinese TV Drama set in the 1930s and televised in 1980 and remade in 2007. We investigated how the Qipao was reinterpreted. The results were as follows. First, in televised in 1980, Qipao borrowed the characteristics of Jing Pai Qipao, which became popular in Beijing. Jing Pai Qipao was characterized by a roomy and loose silhouette that does not expose a body line, Chinese traditional 5 colors, simple plain patterns and Chinese traditional flower patterns. For hairstyle, twist and permanent wave styles that were popular in the Republican Period were very common. On the other hand, in televised in 2007, Qipao was a Hai Pai style that was very popular in Shanghai in the 1930s. Hai Pai Qipao was characterized by a tight silhouette fitted to the body, various colors such as purple and beige other than the 5 colors, Western flower patterns and modern geometric patterns. Hairstyle was changed from bang hair to a permanent wave. Second, while had a modern reinterpretation of Jing Pai Qipao that was very popular in Beijing, rather than Hai Pai Qipao that became popular in Shanghai in the 1930s, used Hai Pai Qipao that was popular in Shanghai in the 1930s. In particular, demonstrated how the mass media should reinterpret past clothing by thoroughly studying and reflecting Shanghai Qipao in the 1930s and adding viewers' aesthetic taste of 2007 without damaging an original. Moreover, it confirmed that clothing can function as language and symbol within the mass media by connecting the color and pattern of Qipao with characters' traits and the plot. It suggests that was more advanced than filmed in the 1980s. The findings of this study might provide useful data to costume designers who reinterpret costumes from a new angle.