• 한국의류학회지
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• 제14권1호
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• pp.55-67
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• 1990

This is a review on the longitudinal transformation of the Japanese trousers, which is prepared as a pre-study for the comparative analysis of the forms of Korean and Japanese folk trousers. The special traits of the Japanese trousers are found to be as follows: 1) The Japanese trousers seem to have their root in the Northern-Asian or Schithian culture. 2) While the ancient forms of Japanese trousers, esp., those of the 8C before include the same types as Korean folk trousers, the Medieval and Recent era trousers quite differ and transform themselves into the unique Japanese type. 3) All Japanese trousers can largely be classified into formal and functional trousers. Formal trousers play important role as one of the ceremonial wardrobe and are treated rather as an outermost-wear than as an inner-wear. 4) The formal trousers have skirt-like features with much fullness as are presented in many deep pleats, long crotch lines and long sashes connected to the belt; the femine trousers even omit crotch line. 5) The principal forms of Japanese trousers consist of I, $\wedge,\;\wedge$; the $\lambda$ form of Korean and Chinese type had never existed. 6) Varieties of the composite type of Japanese-Western style appear among the trousers of recent time.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제25권3호
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• pp.108-125
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• 2021

The purpose of this study is to analyze the technical pattern and product characteristics of outdoor sportswear marketed in Northern Europe and North America. Based on the results of this study, we wanted to provide practical data on the characteristics of products with high functionality and fashionability for developing outdoor sportswear. Therefore, in this study, technical pattern, textiles, details, sewing, compatibility with wearable devices, and certification of 33 marketed outdoor sportswear were analyzed. After analyzing various technical patterns, the bent arm pattern using two-piece panel and a raised arm pattern connecting the side seam with the inner seam of the sleeve appeared on the top. Additionally, the patterns of bent legs with darts in the knee, cutting the posterior, and inserting the gusset in the crotch were mainly seen in the bottoms. By analyzing product characteristics, ergonomic pattern design for easy activity and functional materials was used for climate adaptation in extreme outdoor wear. On the other hand, for outdoor wear meant for trekking or hiking, details, such as portability and easy storage, were considered. Eco-friendly materials were used while ensuring light weight and comfort. Furthermore, for convenience of life, safety, and health, wearable devices were integrated into the outdoor sportswear. Eco-friendly green certification of outdoor products was obtained for the labor environment and production process, and relevant information was provided to consumers.

• 보존과학회지
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• 제33권5호
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• pp.363-370
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• 2017

국립일제강제동원역사관에서 보존처리를 의뢰한 상의 2벌의 재질 분석을 실시하여 당시 의복의 특징을 파악하고, 보존처리를 위한 기초 데이터 구축을 목적으로 한다. 시료의 섬유 짜임 관찰을 위해 실체현미경을 사용하였다. 또한, 섬유 동정을 위해 푸리에변환 적외선 분광광도계(FT-IR), 전자현미경(SEM-EDS)을 이용하였다. 의복 A는 겨드랑이의 구멍, 문양이 있는 레이온제의 흰색 동정, 전체적으로 문양이 없는 소재 등으로 유추하여 보아 여성이 입었던 일본식 속옷 형식의 상의(半襦袢)로 보인다. 몸통 부분의 현미경 관찰 결과 단면 기공이 관찰되며 전체적으로 섬유 꼬임이 관찰 되며, 재질 분석 결과 면이었다. 흰색 동정은 섬유 길이 방향으로 세로선이 관찰되며 단면에 기공은 관찰되지 않으며 재질 분석 결과 레이온 이었다. 의복 B는 오사카 지창에서 검수하고 직인한 작업자용 상의로 보인다. 현미경 관찰 결과, 섬유 꼬임과 단면 기공이 관찰 되었으며, 재질 분석 결과 면이었다. 단추는 분석 결과 초기 플라스틱의 하나인 요소수지로 보인다.

• 한국소음진동공학회논문집
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• 제26권2호
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• pp.203-209
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• 2016

According to the wear detection history for the steam generator tubes in the nuclear power plant, the outer tubes inside the steam generator have more problems on the flow-induced vibration than inner tubes. Many researchers and engineers have used a specified added mass coefficient for a given tube array during the design stage of the steam generator even though the coefficient is not constant for entire tube in cylindrical shell. The aim of this study is to find out the distribution of added mass coefficients for each tube along the radial location. When numbers of tubes inside a cylindrical shell are increased, values of added mass coefficients are also increased. Added mass coefficients at outer tubes are less than those of inner tubes and they are decreased with increasing the gap between the outermost tube and the cylindrical shell. It also turns out when the gap between the outermost tube and the cylindrical shell approaches infinite value, the added mass coefficient converges to an asymptotic value of given tube array in a free fluid field.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제4권6호
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• pp.564-566
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• 2002

Protective clothing for firefighters typically consists of a flame resistant outer shell and inner layers. The inner layers are generally composed of a moisture barrier and a thermal barrier. On performing the task in fire place the heat and perspiration generated from the body become trapped inside the protective clothing. Those heat and moisture result into heat-stress and physical fatigue of fire fighter, which hinder the work. Therefore, the system of clothing designs and material layers must be chosen carefully to balance protection and comfort. 3 kinds of protective clothing of 3 layer structure were used in the experiment of physiological comfort. From the comparison of wear trials with the 3 kinds of layers in firefighters clothing, it indicates that the moisture dissipation of A+B2+C was highest, following A+BI+C andA+B3+C. And the heat dissipation of A+BI+C and A+B2+C were better than A+B3+C. In the protective clothing with A+B3+C, heat and perspiration generated through exercise remained in clothing system long and caused discomfort.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제46권4호
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• pp.624-637
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• 2022

The purpose of this study was to develop a compression inner layer (CIL) that can be attached to dress shirts for men who have gynecomastia (male breast enlargement). For this, we developed shirts with CIL prototypes based on the functional, expressive, and aesthetic (FEA) consumer needs model. The user-centered design principle guided the design process. Based on size measurements, in-depth interviews, and an online survey, the design requirements for dress shirts with a CIL were determined, and the prototype was developed. The dress shirts were constructed of polyester and spandex mixed materials, while the CIL was made of thin mesh fabric knitted from 80% polyester and 20% spandex. A CIL prototype was developed with a front zipper fastening to hold the upper body tight and compress the breast area. The CIL was attached by connecting a strap with snap buttons to loops sewn into the shoulder line of the dress shirt. In the trial and sensory test, the prototype helped breast size decrease while meeting target consumer needs. The outcomes of this study provide necessary insights to develop garments for gynecomastia patients.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제38권6호
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• pp.887-895
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• 2014

The study provides baseline data on developing ready-to-wear clothes for adult females in their twenties who have finished shaping their bodies and have realized an ideal shape. We analyzed the data from females aged from 20 to 29 in "The $5^{th}$ Size Korea Survey" and "The $6^{th}$ Size Korea Survey", and sorted body shapes into several types according to drop values before analyzing and comparing the characteristics among groups. We also referred to the change by year in the size of upper inner wear. To classify body shapes, three drop values were assigned for bust girth - waist girth, hip girth - waist girth, hip girth - bust girth; through cluster analysis all data were classified into three body types. Type 1 is more like normal body shapes with small drop values at the bust girth - waist girth and well-build lower body. Type 2 is X-shaped body shaped like a fiddle with big drop values at all parts. Type 3 is Y-shaped body with a big drop value at the bust girth - waist girth and well-build upper body. Type 2, X-shaped body, has the majority of distribution in every year, which proved to be the most idealistic body shape. There was a change in the brassiere cup size. Korean ladies in their twenties have larger breasts. The body shapes of Korean females in their twenties are increasingly like those of westerners. Bust girth is a very critical element to set measurements and design patterns for upper wear; consequently, a change in the size of breasts should be considered.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제5권4호
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• pp.68-79
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• 1997

In this thesis which takes fashion advertising that functions a marketing communication as an objective, I try to bear witness to the signifying system of garments though analyzing with semiotic methodology the signifying procedure on the base of the structural concept of Ferdinand de Saussure and the advertisement semiotic theory of Roland Barthes, to make clear their signifying structure and it meaning by understanding the characteristics of contemporary society and its cognitive system. Each sign of fashion advertising transfers the brand image through syntagmatic signification which contains the mythology of goods. Mannish style is encoded as tailored jacket, white shirt, H-silhouette and pants, non-color or being color, and it is presented as a clothing sign of casual wear for career women. Feminine style is encoded as X-silhouette, soutien collar suit style, various colors, and other details with womanly image, and it is presented as a clothing sign for maid or young wife 20\`s or 30\`s. Formal style is encoded as jacket vest, inner wear(blouse), two and three piece dress by pants or skirt and one-piece dress, and it is used in every age and class. Casual style is similar to formal style, but differs only in textile code. Clothing sign for housewives in middle age is encoded as H-silhouette of formal style, long jacket and pants and brown, being and grey colors. Contemporary popular phenomena in the signification of fashion advertising, and its temporal ideology reflected are as follows; According to the context of fashion advertising in the middle of 1990\`s, its fashion is that first, military look applied from the designs of various sort of military uniform and vest look and pant style applied from dandy-style imitated from man\`s wear are popuar. This mean that it reflects the change of point of view on woman\`s role in society today. That is, due to the equality between man and woman, it mirrors the ideology of feminism, and then, describes beautifully professional woman with carrer. Second, because that individualism is underlied for the change of consumer\`s consciousness, standardized popularity is disappeared, and in accordance with the mixture of various trends and personalities proposed every season, layered look that emphasizes individualism, easiness and naturalness is popular.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제21권1호
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• pp.119-128
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• 1997

The purpose of this study is to examine the military look, which is one of the most popular fashion trends in the 1996 women's fashion. Military look is that imitates or reinterprets the Army uniform which is functionally useful. After World War 1 , military look appeared in the women's fashion which is functionable tailor suits style, ankle-length skirt, pants or boiler suits for work wear, overcoat against the cold, and there was an attempt to introduce a National Standard Dress. In the middle of World War II, there was a similiar circumstance in women's military fashion. There were functionable tailor suits, knee-length skirt, pants or siren suits for work wear. And the Utility Dress was nationally recommended. In addition, the regulations were introduced to control the materials and styles used for some clothes. In the 70s, as the resistance movement as counterculture began to wear Army look which was army-uniform or army caps with 'US ARMY' logo and badges, and became very popular among the youth. In the 90s, military look has got one of the fashionable fashion themes with revival of Neo- Hippie look. Not only street fashion but also high fashion designer selected the trend for '96A/W The characteristics of the military look are khaki colors or camouflage prints, epaulets, big outpockets with flap, golden buttons and army belt. As I examined, during the World War I and ll, women wore the military look because of shortage of goods and work or service, and it was recommended by government. Though the military look in 70s, began by the resistance movement, at least it became a popular fashion. Military look in 90s, does not have inner symbolic meaning or ideology but it only represents fashion trend and revival fashion.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제29권9_10호
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• pp.1349-1358
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• 2005

Generally apparel products were recognized as an incongruent product type which direct search was needed for. But nowadays apparel products were ranked as a second product type next to electronics in sale amount of internet shopping mall. Therefore more detailed study on which attributes of fashion products are more successful and suitable in internet shopping mall is necessary. This study was executed to analyze common attributes of successful apparel in internet shopping mall on the basis of real sale data, and then to help internet apparel marketer plan marketing strategies more efficiently. Common attributes of successful apparel products in internet shopping-mall in terms of product, price and promotion attributes were identified. 240 products which were loaded in bestseller section of internet shopping-mall for 8 weeks from November to December, 2004 were analyzed. The results are as follows. First, products ratio for women ($76.7\%$) were higher than for men($18.3\%$). And the amount of each apparel product types purchased by consumers were ranked in the order of leather/fur coat, woven coat, inner wear, jacket, T-shirts, pants, training wear, suit, knit wear etc. and basic style dominated in $74.2\%$. General brands ($69.2\%$) that had price competitiveness were preferred to famous designer brand, national brand and PB brand. Preferred level of price was ten thousand to fifty thousand won. For promotion skill, in order of just one product, product adding promotion product and package set were preferred. Regular price, less than $50\%$ off and more than $50\%$ off price showed no difference in preference. Product planning strategy for internet apparel marketer was followed on the basis of these results.