• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.9 no.4
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• pp.549-561
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• 2001

Modern fashion can be expressed as 'pursuit of cocktail effect', which means not unformed, not bounded by a rule, and mixed with various styles. Among them, the most outstanding trend of style is the'infra-syndrome'which designs underclothes like a ordinary wear, which has outstood since early 1980s. In 1990s, this syndrome made active progress and now facing 21th century, it becomes one of the big trends in fashion. Clothes of infra syndrome are one of attempts for freedom expressed by progressive designers who pursuit new and surrealistic design. The purpose of this study is to maximize the aesthetic beauty of'infra-syndrome'apparel centering on dresses of which designs are notable derived from underclothes. With the sewing techniques using the special facilities of the lingerie-manufacturing industry and making use of new material which can be used far lingerie wear, this research strives to expand new ideas in the lingerie industry as well as to contribute to promoting the dress culture by developing novel lines from a new form of dress and lingerie-foundations of dress suitable for human body.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.4
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• pp.165-180
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• 2000

Since fashion is considered to be a cultural product and belongs to the formative art as well, the changes in fashion reflect those of society. Modern fashion has emerged from the period when people would follow the popular fashion uniformly, and moved toward the age of diversity, expressing not only the inner desires and aesthetic sensibility of individuals but also the freedom from formality and traditional restrictions. This kind of changes in expression became important motives for modern dress design following the present cultural phenomena, and, so called "outerwearization" of the undergarment or "infra apparel" exemplifies this situation. Corset especially has been playing a vital role in exaggerating and emphasizing the beauty of female body and correction of its shape. Today, one can frequently witness corset in street fashion along with brassier, Its sister concept. This "outerwearization" of the undergarment is supplanted as a syndrome, and it is defined as "supra syndrome" using "supra" as the opposite meaning to "infra". This unique phenomenon of modern fashion cannot be explained by a single social aspect, but as a mixed state of eroticism, fetishism, feminism, demonstrationists and expressionism among several current phenomena. The advent of "supra syndrome" and its cultural background were illustrated and stand-out "supra syndrome" exhibited by many world-renowned designers were analyzed in this study. As the result of study, six design pieces were developed and produced in three groups, based on different corset motifs. This study reaffirms that creativity of design is limitless and the imaginative abilities alone cannot accomplish higher level of design and development of works of fashion unless they are accompanied by the understanding of historical background, periodical circumstances and cultural phenomena. In this study, utilizing the modern apparatus such as computer and the advent of the modern technology was also found helpful in creative fashion design process.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.7 s.107
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• pp.152-166
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to make patterns for lingerie look after examining expressive characteristics and constructive elements of lingerie look. As underwear became outerwear, position of wearing, materials, and details had changed, and the phenomenon to expose one's body has increased. The constructive elements found in the lingerie look were classified into silhouette, fastening, dart, and cutting line. Many of corset looks revealed cutting lines such as diagonal, perpendicular, and horizon. Brassiere look used perpendicular rutting lines or horizontal cutting lines passing through the bust point in order to highlight the volume by adding darts. There were styles Of chemise looks that used princess lines or separately added a brassier on the breast. Based on the examination of the elements, a total of four apparel works were created, including one flat pattern and three draping patterns. With new infra-apparel designs and patterns, this study was able to artificially highlight the body and express the beauty of costume through revelation of body. In addition, it explored the possibility that the phenomenon that underwear becomes outerwear may be a new idea of dress designing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.4 s.163
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• pp.507-518
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• 2007

This study aimed to investigate the competitive advantages of Chinese fashion industry and firms to Korean fashion industry by applying the generalized double-diamond theory. Data collection was done by internet and fax survey. Questionnaires were distributed to the Korean textiles and apparel firms who entered China for production anuor distribution. List of firms were provided by KOFOTI, KOTRA, and Korea Apparel Industry Association. Total 198 questionnaires were distributed, and 77 questionnaires were used for final analysis. The results were follows. Korea's competitiveness scores of double-diamond model were higher in every aspects, such as demand condition, infra/supportive industry, firms's strategy and competition except factor condition. Glottalization score in double diamond model measured by the degree of glottalization which was determined by international diamond factors which make firm's multinational/international activities possible. Chinese fashion industry's globalization score of factor condition was significantly higher than Korea, but for the rest of aspects, Korean fashion industry showed higher scores. Therefore, Korean fashion firms can overcome comparative disadvantage of factor condition by utilizing Chinese fashion industry no matter what type of entry. In addition, considering the growth rate of Chinese fashion industry and its power of influence in the world market, the entry to the global market of the Korean fashion industry can be possible.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.83-92
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• 2003

This study aims to classify women's undergarments of the 20th century by periods, and to examine their characteristics. The research method consists of a literature study based on relevant documentary records and a demonstrative analysis of graphic data collected from each reference. The features of women's undergarments obtained from the study are as follows: First, silhouette changes of outer garments appear to influence the type and style of a new undergarment. Second, technological development results in a new type of undergarments. Third, the development of new material appears to influence functions and design of undergarments. Fourth, social changes including the development of sports affects the changes of undergarments. As seen so far, the form or type, material, and color in undergarment diversify when fashion changes become varied and rapid. As shown before the 20th century, the importance of undergarment's type, form, and function gradually reduces according to the changes of women's mind due to their social participation, although it still plays a role in correcting the shape of an outer garment based on the outer silhouette. The design also clearly shows the extremes of maximization and minimization of decoration.