• 동양고전연구
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• 제73호
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• pp.385-414
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• 2018

이 글에서는 유교적 종법질서에 변화가 일어난 19세기 격변기에 가문 경영의 주체로서의 여성. 특히 문중에서 종부로서의 지위를 가진 여성의 구체적인 삶의 여정을 한글편지를 통해 재구성해 보았다. 해남윤씨가 8대 종부 광주이씨는 혼인 초부터 남편의 부재로 전통사회의 일반적인 환경에서 벗어났기 때문에 자신이 학습 받은 남성중심의 사회적 질서가 아닌 자신만의 독자적인 정체성을 찾으려는 시도를 하였다. 광주이씨는 종부로서의 지위를 자신이 찾고 자신이 지킬 수밖에 없는 독립적인 주체로 자신을 인식한 것이다. 광주이씨가 종부가 되어 해남윤씨가로 왔을 때 종가의 가세는 많이 기울어져 있었다. 이러한 경제적 어려움은 그 당시 사회적 흐름인 노비제도의 변화로 인한 노주(奴主) 관계의 갈등과 수세의 감소 때문이었다. 그리고 시숙들의 간섭은 종가의 경제적 형편을 더욱 어렵게 했다. 광주이씨는 종가에서 종부로서의 자신의 지위를 확고히 하고 피폐해진 종가를 바로 세우기 위하여 지친들의 간섭에서 자유로울 수 있는 방법으로 종부의 입후권을 이용하였다. 그 때까지 해남윤씨가에서 이루어진 입양은 모두 지친간에 이루어졌는데 광주이씨는 시숙들의 간섭에서 자유롭고 종부로서의 자신의 위치를 굳건히 할 수 있는 장치로 입양문제를 이용한 것이다. 따라서 시숙들의 이해관계에서 자유로울 수 있도록 오히려 멀리 있는 일가 중에서 양자를 골랐다. 광주이씨는 또한 종부로서의 권위를 확고히 하는 데는 종가의 경제권을 장악하는 것이 가장 필수적인 요건이라고 생각하였다. 그 당시 가정 경제를 지탱하는 가장 중요한 수단인 노비노동을 자신을 중심으로 결속시키기 위해서도 자신이 종가의 경제권을 제대로 행사해야 한다고 생각했다. 남편은 물론 자신의 피붙이 하나 없는 종가에서 광주이씨는 19세기라는 사회적 격변기에 종가를 바로 세우고 이름뿐인 종부가 아닌 명실상부한 종가의 안주인으로서의 자리를 차지하게 되었다.

• 복식
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• 제1권
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• pp.119-129
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• 1977

It is significant for developing the future for us to know our present age. In order to preserve our Korean costume as a fola clothes retaining our distinguished independent characterisitics and to help design the tomorrow of our Korean costume playing a role as a racial to develop the world clothing culture, a survey was conducted to investigate modern people's conscious-ness and wearing practumes of Korean costume by questionaire and interviewing methods. The results of the survey were analyzed as follows: (1) At present, Korean costumes were purchased as customtailored(64.0%) and as ready-made(17.8%) and most of them were not made at individual homes. The laundry and ironing of them were carried out at laundry shops(68.8%). Considering our present economic, social and cultural aspects, sowing, laundryand ironing will not be carried out at homes again in the future and ready made costumes seen to be produced in a large scale in the future. Garment makers and laundry shop operators should be trained how to make our Korean costumes retain our traditional beauty in the course of their production and laundry and the makers of ready-made costumes must make research how to efficiently produce ideal ready-made costumes by adopting the synchro system in their wrk odisivion. (2) The age group wearing Korean costumes most frequently was the aged people over 60 (their wearing rate; 45%-50%) and the group wearing them most frequently next io the aged people over 60, was housewives(their wearing rate; 15%-20%). Excludign aged people and housewives, other respondentsdid not wear Korean costumes very frequently. Men's wearing rate was lower their wearing rate was the younger their ages were and the less their monthly incomes were. Korean costumes were used for holiday and festival(60%), wedding and funeral ceremonies (52%), visiting and working(22%), casual wear(12.8%) and home wear(9.2%). The use of Korean costumes as casual and home wears, was lower than the use for holday, festival, visiting and working, Under our present circumstances in which our Korean people use both Western style clothes and Korean costumer, our Korean costume has lostits position as a basic and necessary requiement in Korean people's daily life and become a ceremonical and fancy costume. It is natural that the times and life change everything in our daily life. Our costume has to be made as good ceremonial and fancy clothes satisfying modern sensibility according to its new role. In order for us to get close with our clothes, a keen study must be carried out to cleat the color, material, style, function and harmony of the Korean costume matching the of the times. (3) The 47.8% of the respondents answered that they were proud of our Korean costume as our folk clothes, 47.6% replied that thought them just common and 1.1% responded that they were ashamed of it. Most of them were affirmative in feeling pride with our Korean costume. (4) Considering the functional aspect of Korean costumes, their strong points were symetric beauty, rhythmical beauty, unity feeling, harmonical beauty and detailed decorations. Their common shortcomings were lack of individuality and inadequateness for active life. The shortcomings of woman costumes were suppressing breast, making resperation difficult and in adequnteness in summer time. The main reason not to wear our Korean costumes, was due to the fact that they are incomvenient for active life. As a measure to eliminate such shortcomings, 1) the suspension system of skirt to remove the suppression of breast should be generally adopted. 2) they should be simplified in their structure to make them convenient for active life and adepuate in wearing them in hot weather in an extent to which the traditional beauty of the costume may not be lostand 3) a new technique must be explored for showing individuality by wearing method and new arrangment of colors and decorations. (5) The reasons desiring to wear Korean costumes were classifide as follows: A. Korean costumes are our traditional clothes(43.4%). B. Korean costumes are noble and beautiful(26.8%). C. They are accustomed to wear Korean costumes by habit(19.5%). D. Korean costumes are necessary for attending ceremoneis(9.5%). E. Miscellaneous reasons(0.8%). Classifying these reasons into age groups, the high age group over 40 wore them because they were easy to wear by habit and the low age group of 10-30 never thought that they were east to wear by habit. Considering that even those who were accustomed to wear Korean costumes showed a low wearing rate and that the young generation were accustomed to wear Western style clothes rather than Korean costumes, the wearing rate of Korean costumes will be reduced in the future if such trend continues. It is urgent for us to make our best efforts in order to enhance the interest of young generation in Korean costumes and not to make them lose the strong points of Korean costume in the future. (6) Conicering the plan of the respondents on what kind of clothes they were going to wear in the future, among the age group over 50, those who wanted to wear only Korean costumes were 24.8%(men) and 35.1%(women), those who wanted to wear 49.7%(men) and 47.4(women), those who wanted to wear chiefly Western style clothes were 20.7% (men) and 14.4%(women) and those who wanted to wear only Western style clothes, were 2.4% (men) and 2.1%(women). This shows that the general tendency to wear only or chiefly Korean costumes is more prevalent than that to wear only Western style. Among the age group under 50, the tendency to wear Western style clothes was conspicuous and most of the respondent answered that they would wear chiefly Western style clothes and Korean costumes occasionally. Only 5.4% of the respondent answered that they would wear only Western style clothes and this shows that meny respondents still wonted to wear Korean costumes. Those who wanted their descendants to wear what they desire, were 50.1%(men) and 68.8% (women) and those who wanted their descendants to wear Koran costumes occasionally, were 85.8%(men) and 86.3%(women). This shows that most of respondents wanted their descendants to wear Korean costumes. In order to realize, it is necessory for us to make ourdescendants recognize the preciousness of our traditional culture and modify our Korean costumes according to their taste so that they may like wearing them.