• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.49-62
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• 2004

By delivery means of fashion information, fashion dolls appeared in 18th century. According to development of printing, delivery means of fashion information changed from fashion dolls to fashion plates. Fashion plates offer a colorful and in depth view of the stylish fashions of the past. First fashion plate was Hollars print that was inserted to $\ulcorner$La Galerie des Modes et Costumes Francais$\lrcorner$ and that was published at England in 1643. First fashion plate in France could assumes as winter deshabill that was inserted to $\ulcorner$Le Mercure Galant$\lrcorner$ in 1678. The widespred publication of fashion plates began in England and France in the late 18th century. The first true fashion magazine $\ulcorner$The Ladys Magazine$\lrcorner$ was published at London in 1770. And suddenly similar plates were being published all over Europe. Fashion plates reached their height of popularity in the mid-1800s. Modern age in Europe for fashion magazines golden age, hundreds kinds of fashion magazines published in Europe. Copyright laws in Europe were not enforced, resulting in widespread piracy of fashion designs and plates. After 19th century, America and Europe used much Paris imitation plate. $\ulcorner$The Ladys Magazine$\boxUl$, $\ulcorner$La Gallerie des Modes et Costumes Francais$\lrcorner$, $\ulcorner$Les Cabinet des Modes$\lrcorner$, $\ulcorner$Journal des Dames et des Modes$\lrcorner$, $\ulcorner$The Ladys Monthly Museum$\lrcorner$ were the important fashion magazines in 18th century. $\ulcorner$The Ladys Pocket Magazine$\lrcorner$, $\ulcorner$La Mode$\lrcorner$, $\ulcorner$Le Follet$\lrcorner$, $\ulcorner$La Mode Illustree$\lrcorner$, $\ulcorner$$\ulcorner$The Queen$\lrcorner$ were the important fashion magazines in 19th century. $\ulcorner$Journal des Dames et des Modes$\lrcorner$, $\ulcorner$Gazette du bon ton$\lrcorner$ were the important fashion magazines in early 20th century.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제21권1호
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• pp.148-165
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• 2017

An assortment of daily supplies have been documented in and accounting book that Hwa-sun Song, a wholesale dealer in Hongcheon, Gangwon-do, sent to Young-hui Sin, a customer. This study analyzed a total of 163 documentations in the accounting book between 1910 to 1916, which includes types of daly supplies, trading volume, and prices, maintained accounting between. Consequently, we are able to indentify companies that produced the applicable goods, names of products, units by which goods were counted, and the lowest and highest prices prevailing, along with kinds of goods patronized in everyday life in Hongcheon in the early 20th century. Paper had the maximum trading volume. The second, most traded were cigarettes, a symbol of the new culture. These were traded under various brand names, such as Kkotpyo, Guksyu, Sanhopyo, Syonghak, and Joil. Foodstuffs, were the third most traded items, including fish, fruits, sugar, Waeddeok, Chilwaeddeok, Color candies and Okchyun candies. Our results indicate that the snack food business had developed since the 19th century. Lighting equipment, oil, candles, matches as well as traditional oil lamps and flints cornered the fourth largest stock being traded. Medications were fifth, with prescriptions written for Insohwan, Hoechyungsan and Siungo, including quinine, a medicine for malaria. Other trades included kitchen appliances such as soup bowls, porcelain bowls, kettles, and drinking cups, and a variety of daily supplies such as mirrors, mats, umbrellas, Geumjiwaemil, hair oil imported from Japan, and soap.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제16권4호
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• pp.661-680
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to examine to change in the Chinese women's clothing according to the inflow of Western culture in the first half of the both century As for the research method, both literature and visual data are reviewed. Research results are as follows: The Step of transition in clothing by period followed beginning stage, adopted stage, early developed stage, fully developed stage, and static stage. fully developed stage showed a perfect compromise while being applied to Chinese costume with being introduced a three-dimensional cutting method of western clothing even to the constitution as well as to the appearance. Design elements from western clothing are as follows. The transition of silhouette is box silhouette, trapeze silhouette, shift silhouette, and fitted silhouette. In detail and trimming, tailored, band, convertible, shirts collar and zigzag, scallop, camisole neckline and puff, cap sleeve and flounced, bell shaped cuffs and western button, zipper, etc. are adopted. Finally, the Chinese modern style are formed by accepting and transforming the western clothing based on the traditional Chinese clothing.

• 복식
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• 제47권
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• pp.125-142
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• 1999

Dancing along with mankind has existed in various ways form old age to the present. This dancing combined with artistic meaning is called the art of dancing. This study is mainly about the functions decorations and expressions of dancing costume and the claracteristics of the costumes by the 20th century designers Leon bakst Oskar Schlemer Pablo Picasso. The dancing costume were not so much different from those of the public from old age to middle age. In 18th and 19th centuries the length of the cotstumes become short from the knee to the thigh. The functions have much to do with the development of dancing for example the appearance of toeshoes. The costumes are designed not to prevent the movements of dancers smooth line in old age and ladylike vend high-blown line in the 18th and 19th centuries. Cotton and hemp textiles are turning into the transparent forms such as lace and gauge. The personal ornaments earings and necklaces have change into the pattern with wings and tassels. The dancing costumes of Leon Bakst Oskar Schlemer and Pablo Picasso are designed after the due consideration of body shape. Bakst focused on the beauty of smooth lines with splendid colors and decorations. Schlemer analyzed the body abstractly and metaphysically and expressed it with detaile and simple lines. Picasso emphasized cubic forms with cubism and expressed the characteristics of costumes with clear colors and smooth curved line. Bakst Schlemer and Picasso made the early 20th century the age of functional dancing costumes putting a light on the concept of space and foundation for the modern dancing costumes.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제54권1호
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• pp.18-31
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• 2021

리놀륨은 실용적이고 위생적이며 친환경적인 바닥재이다. 영국의 월튼(Frederik Walton)에 의해 1863년에 개발된 이것은 코르크와 아마인유, 삼베를 주 재료로 한 유연한 방수 재질로서 20세기 초반 전 세계에서 유행했다. 화학제품인 장판과 달리 뒷면의 삼베 바탕을 한 리놀륨은 병원, 사무실과 같은 상업 공간뿐만 아니라 부엌, 욕실, 심지어 거실과 같은 주거 공간에도 널리 사용되었다. 글로벌한 소재의 하나로서 리놀륨은 20세기 초 국내에도 수입·유통된 정황이 파악되고 우리나라의 덕수궁과 창덕궁 내의 여러 건물에서도 쓰였다. 덕수궁의 경우 1915년에 작성된 『덕수궁원안(德壽宮原案)』에 의하면 함녕전, 덕홍전, 정관헌과 같은 주요 전각을 비롯한 여러 곳에 리놀륨이 사용되었음이 확인된다. 이는 주로 청색과 갈색 무지로서 영국의 제품으로 추정된다. 20세기 초 수출입 자료에 따르면 리놀륨은 영국과 미국을 중심으로 국내에 수입되었다. 창덕궁의 경우 이왕직청사의 건물 평면도에는 곳곳에 리놀륨이 표기되어 있으며 대조전과 희정당 일곽에는 그 원형이 남아 있는 곳도 있다. 대조전과 희정당은 1920년에 개수될 당시 서양식 실내 장식과 근대적 설비를 갖추면서 화장실, 이발소, 서행각과 같은 일부 공간에 리놀륨을 사용했다. 여기에 사용된 것은 검정색 무지, 검정 패턴, 그리고 다색 꽃무늬 타일 패턴으로서 아메리칸 리놀륨 매뉴팩처링 컴퍼니(American Linoleum Manufacturing Company)나 암스트롱 코르크 컴퍼니(Armstrong Cork and Tile Company of Lancaster)와 같은 미국 제품들과 유사성이 크다. 본 연구를 통해 리놀륨의 특성과 사용에 대한 이해를 넓히고 이를 기초로 향후 창덕궁의 복원·재현뿐만 아니라 리놀륨이 사용된 근대 실내 복원의 기초자료로 활용될 수 있기를 바란다.

• 한국지구과학회지
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• 제21권5호
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• pp.635-646
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• 2000

20세기에 이룩된 지질학 업적들이 옛부터 인정되어 온 지질학에 관한 우리의 이해와 개념에 혁명을 일으켰다. 그 대표가 된 예가 20세기 초에 제안된 대륙이동설을 1960년대부터 발달한 해저확장설과 판구조론으로 설명한 것이다. 20세기가 지구내부구조뿐만 아니라 지각과 해양과 대기를 구성하는 물질의 성분과 거동에 관한 이해가 깊어진 시기였다. 방사성 동위원소와 안정 동위원소를 이용한 지구화학의 발달과 생물층서학과 순차층서학이 퇴적분지와 어떤 지역의 지질을 판구조론과 퇴적과정의 관점에서 설명할 수 있게 했다. 지진 토모그래피(seismic tomography)와 지자기측정과 컴퓨터의 발달로 지구의내부를 완전히 새로이 알게 되었다. 심해저와 대륙연변부에서 관찰되는 지질학관점에서 본 대부분의 특징과 현상들이 지구내부에서 솟아나는 슈퍼플룸(superplume)과 지판의 상대 운동으로 설명된다. 고지자기와 기타자료를 모아 선캠브리아기에 발달되었던 로디니아(Rodinia)와 판노시아(Pannotia)와 네나(Nena)초대륙을 복원하기에 이르렀다. 1950년대에 시작된 우주연구가 천체지질학과 천체생물학과 천체고생물학의 새로운 가능성을 열고 있다. 1960년대에 시작된 심해굴착연구(Deep Sea Drilling Project)와 1980년에 계속된 대양굴착연구(Ocean Drilling Project)가 고생물학과 지구물리학과 지구화학 같은 지질학과 관련된 분야가 복합된 연구활동을 가능하게 했다. 1980년대에 이리듐과 기타 현상의 발견에 바탕을 둔 외계 천체의 충돌론이 퀴비에의 격변설을 다시 일으켜 지구역사상 기록된 생물체의 멸종에 대한 새로운 설명이 되고 있다. 너무나 길어 인간의 눈으로는 이해하기 힘든 지질시간과 지질과정을 이해학 된 것이 주로 20세기에 이룩된 지질과학의 발달 덕분이다.

• 영어영문학
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• 제58권1호
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• pp.117-142
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• 2012

The education of children is one of the most important parts in children's literature. Children's literature, whose implied readers are both children and parents, is a good means to teach how they should behave and interact. Therefore, literary conventions of children's literature tend to be conservative with happy endings or fairy tale elements. Most of the children's literature of the 18th century were read as a conduct book which teaches children good manners and proper behavior, and at the same time served as a guidebook which tells parents how to discipline children. It emphasized the need of discipline to ascertain the hierarchy and order of the family, and cherished the close relationship between parents and children. In the 19th century, the ideal of family becomes more internalized. In the early 20th century, the ideology of family still remained, even though the world wars and economic depressions caused the cracks and collapses of the family. In the later 20th century, the disintegration of the traditional family was accelerated. The ideal of family based on the close relationship between parents and children, has had problems from the start. The attachment and over-closeness became stressful and sometimes could be poisonous. Recent children's literature shows the process of disintegration of the traditional nuclear family, children suffering in the fractured family, children's mental trauma, and nostalgia for the lost family. However, modern children's literature manages to find the lost or ideal surrogate family, and often shows fairy-tale elements such as mystical and heroic child protagonists or helpers who might solve all the difficult problems at once, despite the collapse of the family in reality.

• 동북아문화연구
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• 제28권
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• pp.339-363
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• 2011

This thesis examines analyzing how historic knowledge was shaped in museum. Examining by Tokyo Imperial Museum, Government General Museum of Taiwan, Yi Wang Ga Museum, Government General Museum of Chosun, and NanTong Museum of late 19th and early 20th century, tried to find out similarities and differences. These museums are similar in that they adopt museums as modern system considering models of other countries(Europe or Japan) and exhibitions played important roles in gathering relics. Experts who leaded adoption of western civilization played an important role. These experts were conservatives who valued tradition and relics while they aimed for western civilization. It originated in the character of museum system. Historical Knowledge by museums was constituted with five combinations of conceptions which are nationality, locality, coloniality, and artistry. Every museum cannot help having modernity for museum itself is modern system. Modernity was symbolized by museum building of western style in Yi Wang Ga Museum, Government General Museum of Chosun. Tokyo Imperial Museum revealed nationality in that it tried building of imperial history which includes colonies. In early time, Tokyo Imperial Museum pursued modernity and artistry, however it concentrated on artistry than modernity later. We can find locality in that Tokyo Imperial Museum tried to find meaning about Japanese art by relating with natural characteristics. It is Taiwan Governor Museum that extremely expressed coloniality and artistry was not considered. Government General Museum of Chosun could not be exceptions of features of coloniality, but it need to recognize that artistry was focused all over the exhibitions. It was NanTong Museum that most directly expressed locality. Like these, Museums of East Asia established in around 1900 made different historical knowledge by varying weigh of five factors, nationality, locality, modernity, coloniality and artistry.

• 복식
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• 제56권5호
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• pp.105-117
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• 2006

The purpose of this research was to understand the process of American women's adoption of knickerbockers from the mid-nineteenth to the early twentieth century. Articles and advertisements related to women's knickerbockers found from The New York Times were used as primary sources. Before 1920, women wore knickerbockers when they participated in sports including gymnasium, bicycling, and swimming. Knickerbockers were mostly worn with overskirts when women appeared in the public. Therefore, knickerbockers were categorized as underwear in the advertisements until the late 1910s. However, knickerbockers were even worn on the streets and in offices after American women gained suffrage in 1920. As more women adopted knickerbockers during the 1920s, the public criticisms and regulations on women's knickerbockers intensified. However, the articles on women's knickerbockers gradually disappeared from The New York Times, as they went out of fashion by the end of the 1920s. Considering the social situation and the change in womanhood during the period, I concluded that American women's adoption process of knickerbockers reflected the increase in women's mobility, and the change in gender roles and the definition of femininity.

• 한국농촌건축학회논문집
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• 제13권1호
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• pp.1-8
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• 2011

This aim of the study is to investigate the plan and elevation types of existing way stations built in the early 20th century Korea, focused on Choong-ang, Donghae-nambu, and Kyung-jeon line of the railroad tracklines. The plans and elevations are drawn up and analyzed based on literature data and aerial photographs through the survey. These way stations are classified into various types by room layout and front elevation. The basic plan types are composed of waiting room, station service room, and administration. The station service room has a train operation room in the projecting part of corner. This room has windows on every side to see in and out of train. There are the enlarged, extended waiting room types, and linear types in the other plan types. The waiting room is lied on the right side, and has a gable roof in elevation. The elevation types are classified with side and centralized, and so on by the placement and shape of gable roofs. The basic elevation types have gable roofs in sides lied on the waiting room, and these types are transformed into centralized types by extension of waiting room The others are the linear types without gable roofs and the unusual roof types in appearance.