• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.35 no.1
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• pp.47-55
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• 2009

In this study, the antioxidative effects, inhibitory effects on tyrosinase, and component analysis of fermented Melissa officinalis extracts were investigated. The ethyl acetate fraction of fermented extract ($8.38{\mu}g/mL$) showed the most prominent the free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activities ($FSC_{50}$) of extract/fractions of M. officinalis. Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities ($OSC_{50}$) of some M. officinalis extracts on ROS generated in $Fe^{3+}$-EDTA/$H_{2}O_{2}$ system were investigated using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay. The ethyl acetate fraction of fermented extract ($0.63{\mu}g/mL$) showed the most prominent ROS scavenging activity. The protective effects of extract/fractions of M. officinalis on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. The M. officinalis extracts suppressed photohemolysis in a concentration dependent manner ($5\;{\sim}\;75{\mu}g/mL$). The inhibitory effect of M. officinalis extracts on tyrosinase was investigated to assess their whitening efficacy. Inhibitory effects ($IC_{50}$) on tyrosinase of some M. officinalis extracts was 50 % ethanol extract ($365{\mu}g/mL$) < ethyl acetate fraction of fermented extract ($122.43{\mu}g/mL$) < ethylacetate fraction ($94.8{\mu}g/mL$). Fractions of ethyl acetate both from ordinary and fermented M. officinalis extracts showed 2 band in TLC and 2 peak in HPLC (330 nm). In HPLC chromatogram of ethyl acetate fraction, peak 1 (51.64 %) and peak 2 (48.36 %) were identified as caffeic acid and rosmarinic acid in the order of elution time. Also, in HPLC chromatogram of ethyl acetate fraction of fermented extract, peak 1 (4.13 %) and peak 2 (95.87 %) were identified as caffeic acid and rosmarinic acid in the order of elution time. These results indicate that the component and content of ordinary and fermented extracts of M. officinalis are different. And the extract of M. officinalis can be used as an antioxidant.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Food Science and Nutrition
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• v.40 no.8
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• pp.1086-1091
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• 2011

Anti-oxidative activity and tyrosinase inhibitory activity of various ethanol extracts of Polygoni multiflori radix (PMR) and Cynanchi wilfordii radix (CWR) were compared to identify an anti-oxidant and whitening agent source from nature. We conducted an investigation into the anti-oxidant activities of PMR and CWR ethanol extracts by measuring total polyphenol content, total flavonoid content, and ABTS radical capacity. The total polyphenol contents of PMR and CWR were 17.31${\pm}$0.54 mg GA/eq g, and 2.75${\pm}$0.22 mg GA/eq g, respectively. The total flavonoid contents of PMR and CWR were 6.38${\pm}$0.39 mg naringine/eq g, and 1.34${\pm}$0.09 mg naringine/eq g, respectively. The 2,2'-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzthiazoline-6-sulphonic acid) radical decolorization of PMR and CWR were 96.89${\pm}$0.21% at 1 mg/mL and 93.49${\pm}$0.76% at 50 mg/mL. Melanoma cells were cultured with the PMR and CWR ethanol extracts for 48 hr, and total melanin content as a final product and the activity of tyrosinase, a key enzyme, in melanogenesis, were estimated. The PMR and CWR ethanol extracts increased melanin content and tyrosinase activity in a dose-dependent manner. These results suggest that PMR and CWR ethanol extracts could be useful as a skin whitening agent.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.35 no.2
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• pp.125-134
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• 2009

In this study, the antioxidative effects, inhibitory effects on tyrosinase, and component of non-fermented and fermented Lavandula angustifolia extracts were investigated. The ethyl acetate fraction of fermented extract (5.95 ${\mu}g/mL$) showed the most prominent the free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activity ($FSC_{50}$). Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities ($OSC_{50}$) of L. angustifolia extracts on ROS generated in $Fe^{3+}-EDTA/H_2O_2$ system were investigated using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay. The ethyl acetate fraction of fermented extract (1.45 ${\mu}g/mL$) showed the most prominent ROS scavenging activity. The protective effects of extract/fractions of L. angustifolia on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. The L. angustifolia extracts suppressed photohemolysis in a concentration dependent manner (1 ${\sim}$ 50 ${\mu}g/mL$). The inhibitory effect of L. angustifolia extracts on tyrosinase was investigated to assess their whitening efficacy. Inhibitory effects ($IC_{50}$) on tyrosinase were determined with ethyl acetate fraction of L. angustifolia extract (144.80 ${\mu}g/mL$) and ethyl acetate fraction of fermented extract (122.40 ${\mu}g/mL$). Fractions of ethyl acetate and fermented extracts showed both 3 band in TLC and 3 peaks, 2 peaks in HPLC (340 nm), respectively. In each chromatography, fractions of ethyl acetate both from non-fermented and fermented L. angusfifolia have rosmarinic acid in common. These results indicate that the component and content of non-fermented and fermented extracts of L. angustifolia are different. Both of the extract of L. angustifolia can be used as an antioxidant.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.34 no.2
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• pp.83-92
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• 2008

In this study, the antioxidative effects, inhibitory effects on tyrosinase and elastase and components of Fagopyrum esculetum extracts were investigated. Fagopyrum esculetum used for this study is hulls and dehulled seeds. The free radical(1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl radical, DPPH) scavenging activities($FSC_{50}$) and reactive oxygen species(ROS) scavenging activities($OSC_{50}$) of extract/fractions from Fagopyrum esculetum were measured. The aglycone($3.5{\pm}0.0{\mu}g/mL$) and ethyl acetate fractions($0.2{\pm}0.1{\mu}g/mL$) of hulls showed the most effective scavenging activities. The protective effects on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. The ethyl acetate fraction exhibited the most prominent cellular protective effect(${\tau}_{50},\;771.7{\pm}9.9 min$ at 10 ${\mu}g/mL$). The inhibitory effect of aglycone fraction of hull and dehulled seeds on tyrosinase were examined ($53.6{\pm}0.5{\mu}g/mL,\;35.6{\pm}0.4{\mu}g/mL$, respectively). And The inhibitory effect of aglycone fraction of hull and dehulled seeds on elastase were investigated($3.7{\pm}0.4{\mu}g/mL\;and\;6.0{\pm}0.7{\mu}g/mL$ respectively). But 50% ethanol extract rarely exhibited the inhibitory activity on tyrosinase and elastase. (+)-Catechin and (-)-epicatechin were contained in ethyl acetate fraction of dehulled seeds. And ethyl acetate fraction of hull contains flavonoids of hyperin, quercetin, rutin and so on. These results indicate that extract/fractions of Fagopyrum esculentum can function as antioxidants in biological systems, particularly skin exposed to UV radiation by scavenging $^1O_2$ and other ROS, and protect cellular membranes against ROS. Fagopyrum esculentum extract could be used as a new cosmeceutical for whitening and anti-wrinkle products.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.37 no.2
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• pp.191-198
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• 2011

In this study, antioxidative effects and inhibitory effects of Geum aleppicum Jacq. extracts on tyrosinase and elastase were investigated. The ethyl acetate fraction of G. aleppicum Jacq. extract ($4.70\;{\mu}g$/mL) showed the most prominent free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activity (FSC50). Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities ($OSC_{50}$) of some G. aleppicum Jacq. extracts on ROS generated in $Fe^{3+}-EDTA/H_2O_2$ system were investigated using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay. The ethyl acetate fraction showed the most prominent ROS scavenging activity ($0.22 \;{\mu}g$/mL). The protective effects of extract/fraction of G. aleppicum Jacq. against the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. The G. aleppicum Jacq. extracts suppressed photohemolysis in a concentration dependent manner ($1{\sim}25{\mu}g$/mL), particularly the ethyl acetate fraction exhibited the most prominent celluar protective effect (${\tau}_{50}$, 416.20 min at $10 \;{\mu}g$/mL). The inhibitory effect of G. aleppicum Jacq. extracts on tyrosinase and elastase were investigated to assess their whitening and anti-winkle efficacy. The half maximal inhibitory concentration ($IC_{50}$) of the ethyl acetate fraction on tyrosinase was $95.23\;{\mu}g$/mL. The $IC_{50}$ of 50 % ethanol extract and the ethyl acetate fraction on elastase were $6.27 \;{\mu}g$/mL and $4.31 \;{\mu}g$/mL, respectively. These results indicate that extract/fraction of G. aleppicum Jacq. can function as antioxidants in biological systems, particularly skin exposed to UV radiation by scavenging $^1O_2$ and other ROS, and protect cellular membranes against ROS. Especially the ethyl acetate fraction of G. aleppicum Jacq. extracts could be applicable to new functional cosmetics for antioxidant, antiaging.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Applied Pharmacology
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• 2007.11a
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• pp.79-92
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• 2007

Oxidative stress have known to be a risk factor for the degenerative processes and closely related to a lot of diseases. It is well established that antioxidants are good in protection and therapeutic means against oxidative damage. There is increasing interest in natural antioxidants and many natural antioxidants have been found and utilized as the possible protection for various diseases and skin aging. We have screened natural antioxidant agents for cosmeceuticals, nutraceuticals, and drugs as therapeutic and preventive means against oxidative stress, and have developed a number of novel antioxidants from various natural sources. A novel melanin synthesis inhibitor, Melanocin A, isolated from the metabolite of a fungal strain Eupenicillium shearii F80695 inhibited mushroom tyrosinase and melanin biosynthesis of B16 melanoma cells with $IC_{50}$ value of 9.0 nM and MIC value of $0.9\;{\mu}M$, respectively. Melanocin A also exhibited potent antioxidant activity by scavenging of DPPH and superoxide anion radicals. UV was found to increase the level of hydrogen peroxides and other reactive oxygen species (ROS) in skin tissues. This increase in ROS may not only alter the structure and function of many genes and proteins directly but may also modulate their expressions through signal transduction pathways and, ultimately, lead to skin damage. We investigated the effect of Melanocin A on UV-induced premature skin aging. Firstly, the effect of Melanocin A on UV-induced matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-9 expression in an immortalized human keratinocyte cell line, HaCaT in vitro was investigated. Acute UV irradiation induced MMP-9 expression at both the mRNA and protein levels and Melanocin A suppressed this expression in a dose-dependent manner. We then investigated UV-induced skin changes in hairless mice in vivo by Melanocin A. Chronic exposure of hairless mouse dorsal skin to UV increased skin thickness and induced wrinkle formation and the gelatinase activities of MMP-2 and MMP-9. Moreover, Melanocin A significantly suppressed UV-induced morphologic skin changes and MMP-2 and MMP-9 expression. These results show that Melanocin A can prevent the harmful effects of UV that lead to skin aging. Therefore, we suggest that Melanocin A should be viewed as a potential therapeutic agent for preventing and/or treating premature skin aging. Terrein is a bioactive fungal metabolite isolated from Penicillium species. Terrein has a relatively simple structure and can be easily synthesized. However, the biologic effects of terrein are comparatively unknown. We found for the first time that terrein potently inhibit melanin production in melanocytes and has a strong hypopigmentary effect in a spontaneously immortalized mouse melanocyte cell line, Mel-Ab. Treatment of Mel-Ab cells with terrein (10-100 mM) for 4 days significantly reduced melanin levels in a dose-dependent manner. In addition, terrein at the same concentration also reduced tyrosinase activity. We then investigated whether terrein influences the extracellular signal-regulated protein kinase (ERK) pathway and the expression of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), which is required for tyrosinase expression. Terrein was found to induce sustained ERK activation and MITF down-regulation, and luciferase assays showed that terrein inhibits MITF promoter activity in a dose-dependent manner. To elucidate the correlation between ERK pathway activation and a decreased MITF transcriptional level, PD98059, a specific inhibitor of the ERK pathway, was applied before terrain treatment and found to abrogate the terrein-induced MITF attenuation. Terrein also reduced the tyrosinase protein level for at least 72 h. These results suggest that terrain reduces melanin synthesis by reducing tyrosinase production via ERK activation, and that this is followed by MITF down-regulation.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.47 no.4
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• pp.341-352
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• 2021

Acerola is an excellent ingredient because of its high natural vitamin C content, but it is difficult to stabilize and has hardly been studied as a cosmetic material. Therefore, this study developed a mixed liposome preparation for stabilizing acerola extract. As a safety test, the skin irritation test was evaluated by BCOP assay and HET-CAM assay. We evaluated the inhibition of tyrosinase activity, the whitening effect of melanin production, and the wrinkle effect of prochloragentype-I C-peptide production, and confirmed the possibility of functional cosmetics. In addition, a cream of liposomes containing acerola extract mixture was developed to evaluate the clinical studies of skin wrinkles and whitening. BCOP assay, HET-CAM assay and human skin primary irritation test results of liposomes containing acerola extract mixture showed no irritation and were safe from skin and eye. The result of tyrosinase activity by 75.8% at 1,000 ㎍/mL. As a result of the melanogenesis inhibition test, liposome with acerola extract showed the melanin content by 46.2% at 1,000 ㎍/mL that does not effect the viability of the B16F10 cell line. The result of collagen production test using ELISA kit, liposomes containing acerola extract mixture showed collagen synthesis ability by 152.1% at 1,000 ㎍/mL that does not affect the viability of the HS68 cell line. But it did not showed any inhibition of collagenase (MMP-1) activity at all concentrations in the MMP-1 activity inhibition test in the HS68 cell line. We performed clinical studies for the whitening and skin-wrinkle activity of cream containing acerola extract mixes liposome, was showed that the melanin contents and wrinkle was statistically significant reduction. These results suggest that liposomes containing acerola extract mixture have safe natural material, and skin wrinkle, whitening effects allowing their application in cosmetics as a natural product.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.37 no.4
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• pp.327-335
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• 2011

5,4'-dihydroxystilbene-3-O-${\beta}$-D-glucopyranoside (Polydatin) is one of the stilbenes found in Polygonum cuspidatum (P. cuspidatum), however, the effects of polydatin on skin biology remain to be elucidated. In this study, we obtained polydatin from P. cuspidatum and investigated the effects of polydatin in skin-derived melanocytes and fibroblasts. In melanocytes, polydatin inhibited not only the tyrosinase activity and melanin production but the expression of melanogenic factors, tyrosinase and microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF). In addition, the level of type I procollagen in fibroblasts was analyzed, and polydatin significantly induced the production of type I procollagen in a dose-dependent manner. Finally we conformed that topical treatment of polydatin improved wrinkle and induced whitening of human skin in vivo. These data provide evidence that polydatin can be a potent candidate for the improvement of both skin wrinkle and whitening from the point of industry view.

• Journal of Life Science
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.269-275
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• 2015

Collagen peptides, which are found at high concentrations in the human body, are present in animal bones and the skin of marine organisms, namely, fish scales. Collagen is the most abundant structural protein of various connective tissues in animals. Furthermore, it is widely used in biomedical material, pharmaceutical, cosmetic, food, and leather industries. Peptides extracted from scales of various fish protect against ultraviolet B (UVB)-induced skin damage and photo-aging. However, the protective effects of collagen peptides derived from the scales of Branchiostegus japonicus against UVB exposure are unclear. This study investigated the effects of peptides larger than 1 kDa (high-molecular weight peptides [HMP]) and smaller than 1 kDa (low-molecular weight peptides [LMP]), derived from extracts of B. japonicus scales, against UVB-induced skin damage and photo-aging. These peptides scavenged 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl radicals in a dose-dependent manner. In UVB-exposed HaCaT human keratinocytes, LMP inhibited 8-isoprostane generation, a marker of cellular lipid peroxidation. The peptides also suppressed the UVB-induced increase in tyrosinase activity and melanin content in B16F10 mouse melanoma cells. In addition, the LMP and HMP treatment suppressed UVB-induced elastase and matrix metalloproteinase-1 activities in the HaCaT cells. These results indicate that peptides derived from B. japonicus scales have antioxidant, antiphoto-aging, and skin-whitening effects.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.36 no.2
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• pp.137-143
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• 2010

Yuza (Citrus junos Sieb ex TANAKA) is a citrus fruit that is cultivated in northeast Asia. Citron is known for containing abundant antioxidants such as vitamin C, flavonoids, for example hesperidin and hesperetin, and terpenoids such as limononin. When mature citron is processed for tea or other beverage food products in Korea, massive amounts of seeds and pericarp are remained as waste. This study aimed to exploit the processed remnant of Citron for developing functional cosmetic applications. Ethanol extracts of Yuza seed and pericarp did not show significant radical scavenging activities measured by DPPH (2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl) method. But they contained significantly high phenolic compounds. Cultured human dermal fibroblasts and HaCaT keratinocytes were irradiated with 25 mJ UVB and the citron extracts were added to the medium of each culture. Cellular damages caused by UVB irradiation were prevented by the addition of the Yuza extract. In addition, the reduction of the enhanced MMP-1 expression after irradiation of UVB in human dermal fibroblasts was observed. Also the increased level of pro-inflammtory TNF-$\alpha$ in the UVB irradiated HaCaT cells was decreased. The collagen expression was enhanced by the extract. Yuza extract markedly inhibited melanin production from $\alpha$-MSH treated B16F1 melanoma cells. Melanin assay, tyrosinase zymography results indicated that Yuza extract had strong depigmenting activity. In conclusion, Yuza ethanol extracts have good anti-photoaging and strong anti-melanogenic efficacies.